Eng SET ID issue with B unit of Milwaukee F3 AB Set 6-18140

Nobody ever responded to my post above  but I did get my problems solved over here in this thread: tmc f-3 problem I came in at about the 8th post in the thread. 

My original problem with setting the ID was solved by replacing the LCRX board. But that introduced some new problems because the LCRX board provided by Lionel was an older version and had some different signal assignments on the connector pins, as well as a different connector arrangement. But once I know what pin did what, the solution was easily achieved.

Ken

Ken,

One thing that we didn't talk about in the other thread is your original LCRX.

As George (GGG) pointed out, the radio tuner coil in the corner of the board can sometimes drift a bit, causing radio reception to be spotty. But the other problem I've run into is that the microprocessor on the LCRX and early LCRU1 is socketed, and these can sometimes be the source of oxidation that prevents good electrical contact.

If you still have your original LCRX and feel like experimenting, use a small screwdriver to carefully pry the microprocessor from its socket. Lightly wipe the pins with electrical contact cleaner if you have it, and gently re-install it in the correct orientation. I've brought a few LCRX and LCRU1 boards back to life this way.

TRW

PaperTRW posted:

Ken,

One thing that we didn't talk about in the other thread is your original LCRX.

As George (GGG) pointed out, the radio tuner coil in the corner of the board can sometimes drift a bit, causing radio reception to be spotty. But the other problem I've run into is that the microprocessor on the LCRX and early LCRU1 is socketed, and these can sometimes be the source of oxidation that prevents good electrical contact.

If you still have your original LCRX and feel like experimenting, use a small screwdriver to carefully pry the microprocessor from its socket. Lightly wipe the pins with electrical contact cleaner if you have it, and gently re-install it in the correct orientation. I've brought a few LCRX and LCRU1 boards back to life this way.

TRW

Yes I still have the original LCRX. I never throw that stuff away. When I get a chance I'll experiment but at the moment I have the "new" old LCRX installed and wired correctly and the B-unit works exactly as it should. And I'm a firm believer in the old adage, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!".

I am curious as to why I had the original problem of not being able to permanently store the ID in the B-unit. That made the B-unit almost useless since it had the Railsounds and the tmcc functionality for the coupler and backup light. Is the flash memory that holds the ID in the microprocessor, or somewhere else? At least I assume it's some sort of flash memory since you can change the ID as needed.

Ken

Update, the LCRX in the B-unit now is the one Lionel sent to me. Judging from the discussion and comments in this Forum, it is the older version and does NOT have the two small 2-pin connectors. It appears to be the one that has a removable 18 pin processor and is the one on the bottom of the photo. That is why I referred to it as the "new" old LCRX.

I just looked closely at the one (top one in the photo) originally in the B-unit, and the processor is soldered to the motherboard. Here is my photo of both boards again. The original is on top and has the two small white connectors. The one I bought from Lionel that I am now using is the one on the bottom and is working just fine.

Top board is Lionel p/n 691-PCB1-00E, and is no longer available.

Bottom board is Lionel p/n 610-1824-110, and is available.

In summary, in order to fix the ENG ID issue and other problems I had to replace the defective LCRX board that was originally installed in the Milwaukee B-unit 6-18139.

Here is a photo of the replacement LCRX (610-8124-110) obtained from Lionel mounted in the B-unit. Since it was NOT a drop in replacement I had to perform some minor mods. I pulled one black wire out of the rear coupler connector (small white 2-pin connector block) and wrapped it in the ground wire bundle secured by a wire nut. That is not visible in the photo. I left one black wire in the small white connector block and connected it to pin D lower right to activate the rear coupler. Pins C and E are not used in this application and the backup light power lead is connected to pin F (red wire). Note that the processor chip is in a socket and removable but I had no need to remove or re-seat it. Everything works fine as is.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

PaperTRW posted:

If you still have your original LCRX and feel like experimenting, use a small screwdriver to carefully pry the microprocessor from its socket. Lightly wipe the pins with electrical contact cleaner if you have it, and gently re-install it in the correct orientation. I've brought a few LCRX and LCRU1 boards back to life this way.

YIKES!   I really do NOT recommend this!  Everyone's idea of "carefully" is different, and it's way to easy to break the socket without the correct extraction tool.  Jameco has them for $2.49.  PLCC Square Extractor Set, that's the only reliable method of getting the PLCC chips out without risking breaking the socket.

John,

I don't think that tool will work for this application. The "processor" is a dual in-line 18 pin package that is probably best removed with a small flat tip screwdriver inserted under each end alternately, while applying some upward pressure. See my photo above. BTW, I do have the tool you show and use it to extract appropriate square packages. That usually bends the flimsy grabber tips after using it more that one time! 

Yep, I realized when the picture was posted that I was thinking of something else.   That's why I deleted my original post after I saw your picture, I was in the wrong thread.