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can't find screws longer than 5/8"

Uh, hardware store? You may have to adapt/drill out your track holes to accommodate the 1"foam base.

I just added on to my layout using 1" foam underlayment. I use Gar Graves/Ross track. I used drywall screws in most places (through the drilled tie and into the plywood 1"+ below), and in spots most visible I used smaller-headed wood screws, and painted the heads black. You could paint yours gray, maybe. They do come longer than 5/8". Really.

Sorry I can't because I have build 6 layouts throughout my life and always used drywall screws with tubular track into plywood or homosote. It is noisy and I am looking for an option with a new layout I will be building. I will be using tubular track. Plywood seems to be the sound amplifier in the equation. Has anybody experimented with sound deadening material UNDER the plywood and using scenic woodlands roadbed.??

I have a dual mainline layout on an approximately 8' x 10' U shape using FasTrack on top of 2" foam and it is not fastened to anything.  I've been running it that way for about 5 years now with no problems.  I have it powered using .110" connectors every 3rd or 4th section of track from underneath so I guess that helps it from "creeping"?

Last edited by BatTrain

Although my Fastrack is on homasote, and I use 1" screws, I have an On30 layout which uses Bachmann track on a foam base, so it's the same concept.  

When building it, I assembled all of the track and used small nails to hold it in place.  Then,  I put a bead of Loctite Power Grab adhesive where the beveled edge of the track meets the foam.  It dries clear and holds very securely.  After it dries, the nails or screws are then redundant and can be removed if desired.  (Before committing to this approach, I tested it by attaching a spare piece of track to a scrap piece of foam; the strength of the bond is amazing.)

Power Grab comes in tubes which fit a caulking gun and in smaller hand-squeezed tubes that have a cap.  I like the small tubes better because my skills with a caulking gun are not great. 

The main drawback of this approach is that later revisions to the layout will entail scraping the adhesive off of the track, and removing it from the foam will leave gouges in the foam which will need to be filled.

I use indoor/outdoor carpet over 1/4 inch pegboard on a Sievers benchwork. I don't think it is loud. I use an occasional screw thru the carpet into the pegboard mostly at the curves where the Fastrack seems to gap over time. The pegboard is sturdy enough to walk on since the Sievers is on one foot centers and as a bonus  I have a hole within 1 inch where ever I want to put a wire thru.

Fireball RR posted:

Thank you all for the input, for those with foam, do you get any squeaking in certain places as the loco goes over track that is on a foam seem?

No, but I hot glued my pink foam to the table top. Others have used construction adhesive, gotta work "fast" when using the hot glue. 

FWIW if you'll be adding scenery this quiets the track even further.

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