I am trying to set up my Fastrack layouts signals by isolating the two outer rails from each other. I need to isolate one of the outer rails used for the signal detection from one signal block to the next. How can I do that without cutting the rail?
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They make a 5" block track that has wires you can pull out for any of the three rails and hence isolate any of the three rails. I've found that on carpet, the blocks flex and power does arc over the cuts. I cut the blocks out a bit and filled in the gap with epoxy.
Mike
I have used the block section tracks and made my own. I did notice that if the isolation was for too many sections that power to run the trains on the rails would cause a noticable drop in speed. I ended up switching to the infared sensors and everything is much happier.
There are Fastrack isolated track sections, but I've never quite understood the utility of them unless you do some hacking yourself. Since they have all the pins and just omit the jumper between the outside rails. How are they supposed to be used?
I have two of the activator tracks. and there is actually a break in the outside rail on each of the two 5" pieces that it comes with. No hacking required. I will say one frustrating part of the activator track, when having multiple sets the Breaks on all the activator tracks have to be on the same side or they won't work correctly. I'm sure somebody who understand electricity and stuff better then myself understands why. The activator track is nice when installed correctly.
It's no different than making sections from other traditional tubular track.
One outside rail has to be contiguous to provide power for moving the train.
That leaves the other rail with the gaps needed to provide the switching of current to the accessory.
Which rail, well it really doesn't matter unless it is placed precariously near a non-derailing switch trigger rail in some situations.
Right, I'm just curious as to what the justification for the insulated track section was. It seems that it's just a standard track missing the cross piece to connect the two outside tracks. I see no added functionality. It it perhaps to be used with activator tracks to extend the length of the section?
Precisely.
They can be used alone(without the split rail activator pieces) if you want to pull pins as described in detail in the video above.
Precisely.
They can be used alone(without the split rail activator pieces) if you want to pull pins as described in detail in the video above.
If I want to pull pins, I can use any old track sections. 
I just got a bunch of these in a track purchase and was wondering what the utility was.
Hi Dj, I've done this lots of times. Lionel does this with the 6-12029 accessory activator pack. The pack consists fo 2) 5" straights with a rail break cut in one of the outside rails, & 1) 10" straight with the tin tie bar removed that connects the outside rails. You add extra insulated track sections in between the rail break sections to exstend the action.
Lionel calls the opening in the rail a rail break. Lionel only sells insulated sections as 10" straights. They also sell a little short section with all 3 rails cut. Each rail has a jumper wire underneath that bridges the rail break. You remove the wires as needed. If you want to extend the action using curves you must remove the little tin tiebar yourself. Simply unbend the tabs & lift it off. Way cheaper to make your own, plus you can have rail breaks on curves as needed.
Of course you can remove pins to make rail breaks as video shows. If you decide to go ahead & cut them yourself, just make sure it's a nice clean cut. Even the smallest sliver of metal remaing in the break will cause problems.
I've ran 15 insulated sections in a row. You will often need to add extra power&ground feeders, as well as extra insulated rail feeder wires.
A good rule to follow is no track section should be more than 3 pins from a pair of power & ground feeders. Make no mistake, all track types will need lots of feeders to give long term service. Fastrack may work good at 1st, but over time the train will slow without the extra feeders. The larger the electrical demand from the train, the worse slowing of train without enough feeders.
The track section doesn't loose power, it's the pins. If you stack a bunch of short sections, the 3 pin rule still appiles.
Very best, Don Johnson
I've never seen the section with all the rails broken. I have some of the 1.37" sections with the center rail broken and a jumper under the base.
Gunrunnerjohn - the utility of the insulated sections, and as Don described, is longer activations. For example, I added extra insulated sections to and from a Fastrack Crossing Arm accessory or Crossing with Flashers. This provided for earlier and longer activation of the crossing. I also use these for an extended block section to pick up a relay to signal red over a long section of track.
There are Fastrack block sections with each rail "cut" as shown here:
I've never seen the section with all the rails broken...
Well, I did say I'd never seen it, not that it didn't exist. 
That's good to know, I'm sure as I proceed with my Fastrack layout I'll probably have a use for this. I was thinking I'd have to make one, but I am lazy when they're available.
Gunrunnerjohn,
Capt Cog made a good point about this special track and I agree, the new Infra Red controls make this track kind of obsolete, I saw no need for any of it on my FasTrack layout, however if you gentlemen see a need for it, have at it. It does however play havic with your conventional train speed.
PCRR/Dave
I have some of the IR controls, but they're kinda' expensive if you want to use a lot of them. However, they certainly are a cleaner solution to the issue, I'll agree.
gunrunnerjohn,
As usual you make a good point, because I have so few, the IR cost was not even a consideration to me, however if I had a bunch of them, it sure would be, got to admit I never even thought about the cost.
PCRR/Dave
My fastrack 072 switches come with a short 1 3/8" piece which has a wire underneath which when removed isolates track. I am not sure if other switches have this.
Well, the O36 ones don't come with it, but I've bought a bunch of these. I believe the ones that come with that switch are the ones without the roadbed sides, right?
John yes one has roadbed on one side and the other no roadbed.
I didn't realize there was one with roadbed on one side. From the picture of the O-72 switch, obviously there is! Where does the one with no roadbed fit in?
John, the switch comes with 3 extra roadbed pieces 2 with roadbed one side and one no roadbed. See this link to manual:
What a novel idea, look at the manual! Right you are, I've just used the O36, I'm currently looking to expand to some O72 runs. I'm sure I'll get an education...
what? Real men do not read instructions. I just do stuff then when it does not work, then I get out the manual. LOL
what? Real men do not read instructions. I just do stuff then when it does not work, then I get out the manual. LOL
That's why I was confused! 
Read instructions? You lose manliness points when you do that.
Read instructions? You lose manliness points when you do that.
Well, apparently I'm safe as I didn't look at the manual before asking a stupid question.
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