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Here we are on the cusp of February and the Token Build.  If you are planning on taking part, now is the time to solidify your commitment by posting pics of the barn (or barns) you are choosing to model or combine into one build.  The next week should be spent building the super structure of your barn with expectations of sharing your progress on next week's February Build Check-In.

I'm gonna be going with this version of a barn but will possibly be combining other aspects I like from different barns I've come across in my search.

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I like the classic look of the roof and the doors.  This will be a first for me building a second story structure so I'm a bit nervous but looking forward to the challenge and learning from the other builds and any advice offered along the way.

Lets see what you've chosen for the Community Build

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Last edited by bfishma1
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Mark: Love the old school approach.  Beautiful work on the drawings and I can appreciate the time and effort spent doing so.  Using the grid paper is a smart move in that it assists in making all lines straight and square ... and makes a great template to build directly on top of.  I transfer the corners of all walls as well as windows and doors through the paper onto foam board or basswood using a pin ... line the holes up with a straight edge after that and BOOM

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Last edited by bfishma1

I dug out my very dusty drafting board and T-square and put together this 28'x48' gambrel roof bank barn.  I'm not doing an interior, so construction will be coffee stirrer sticks over black foam core. Stone walls will be cast plaster, hand carved.  Total cost is $10 for Tichy windows.  Everything else I had laying around.IMG_2936

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Bob Glorioso

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One week deep and time to share your progress.  Looks like those on-board are off to a great start.  I transferred the design I chose to a drawing on grid paper.  This is one of my favorite parts of a build because of the opportunity to sharpen a few pencils and scratch some lead.  The grid paper is very helpful in that it makes the lines straight, corners square, and allows you to accurately gauge distances.  Once I had the blueprints up to par, using a pin I poked out all the corners of the building, doors, and windows.  When I pulled away the paper, all I had to do was connect the dots for a picture perfect transfer of the design.  All that was left was some careful x-acto cutting with a metal straight edge to guide me.

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I've found that keeping the cutouts of the doors and windows proves helpful as templates for scratch building the windows and doors that will eventually be on the farm.  Since they are the original cuts from the template, using them ensures a snug fit.

Lets see the progress you've made this week on your version of the February Build 

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Last edited by bfishma1

Progress this week...

The end wall sub-framing is about complete...

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The most tedious part of any build is waiting for the glue and paint to dry.

While the windows for the side wall are layout out. These need to be completed as it will determine the final exact length of the structure...IMG_1280

I am waiting for my order of strip wood from Mt. St Alberts to arrive. No matter, I can always work on the roof and doors. See you next week!

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Mark: great work and I applaud you for opting for the sub-framing.  My anxious soul was too scared to take this route even though I initially attempted to.  I figured sub-framing would allow me to give the impression of some broken boards and gaps to shine through ... not possible with basswood or foam as the template.  Unfortunately I found it too difficult to match up the angles on the roof.  Any tips you can provide?  I noticed you used some pins to hold things in line and in place.

Joe: thanks for the encouragement.  Never too late my friend.  Would love to have you add your skills to the mix.  As with all these builds I find the more the merrier! 

  I'm shooting for a folk art meets toy look. Uneven, skewed, etc. Signs of weathing and age, but happily colorful fixer-upper to fit with my style.

  I'm moving fast due to using a failed covered bridge's cover for the 2cnd floor/loft with plans to drop part of the framing details in later.

Once this lift is done, my plan is to step up to a more structured build for the lower section, where it will serve as a base where the "loft section" might be removed for actual use alone as a small barn on my tiny layouts.

I.e. I'm so far I'm taking the kludge approach, as usual, without much measuring, using scraps, popsicle sticks mostly, plus anything I find to move me forward asap.   So Im going to include this loft as sub-structure even though the frame is going in after the fact and there should be more frame comming with the ground floor.

Popsicle sticks are also prone to being hard, brittle, and will split along the grain pretty easy while trying to saw. Scissors and snips usually just split a stick. So does crossgrain razor pressure.  I might try soaking a few to see if they soften, warp, etc.   Some batches are soft though.  The short of it is, I may or may not narrow some boards. I'll eyeball each choice and see how those rips go on a case by case basis.

About 1/3 to 1/2  the length of this visually.  Red and pale grey, black roof. Swinging loft doors serve the dual purpose barn/loft best and narrowness kinda demands them. The lower floor should have enough width for hung roller doors  

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Here is the bridge. Dollhouse materials on roof and paneling were scraps from Grandpa and his sisters dollhouse building buisness/hobby of the 70s..  No internal structure yet as that narrowed it too much. The girder bridge was ok, the cover was too narrow by about 1/16". 

 I had to add a rear wall , make doors, and fill in the rear wall/doorframe corner paneling and uprights. Some stud framing was added too, more coming.  At this point there are about 10 pieces, 2-roof, 2 -peaks, 2-horizotal roof on wall pads, 2 walls, two bases (unpainted and long on the girders) The roof is sitting on the walls, which are sitting on the girders, 3pc without glue.

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The upright corners were finished with both Popsicle sitcks (P-stix for short) and some scrap home spun dollhouse laminate (table saw cut by Grandpa) .  The corners and some laminate panels are pre-assembled and glued onto a stiff brown construction paper backing or thin cloth. It's far easier than doing it on the piece, but backside grooving for detail is out of the picture because I used a square patch (strips of cloth in a less seen area up high, or down low, hidden behind beams, etc is how to retain detail and still use the method)

I had removed part of the face for pantagraph clearance as a bridge and ad to both fill it (too high) and angle it to reach out fwd. as I liked a little offset of the roof towards the front, a contribution to the crooked look I like. (thats' Night Court on tv and I built the table alone in fall of 7th grade. I like the flat glass center for building and sanding on)

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Base paint and door sizing. The doors are hobby paneling, the X frame work P-stix

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Some color and contemplating a covered hoist, belfry, or steeple venting.IMG_20190202_192209

 More comming near immediatly, hold of on posting more just a bit please. I want to split the post up in case the post doesnt take.... 

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if you waited, thank you...

The breather box won... I'm holding out on why for my last post. Pretty self explanatory.  The center brace is to prevent collapse of the weak paneling if the loft is gripped and lifted there, which will be the intuitive/habitual choice for most the black wood is stronger P-stix. 

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This kinda shows the roof's offset to the front (right), just like the loft roof it sits on. (base is not glued here)

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The breather box getting color. Touch ups needed everywhere, loft too.i have too split the post again...The screen isifreaking out, IIcant even see if this text is taking 

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Largest screen resize ever, lol.  A  period alone filled my whole screen and the composer wouldn't zoom down.

Color......

More color.... and an issue.  I want the doorway to be taller than I made it. I have a tractor that wouldn't quite fit when its on the ground. I'm going to see how two boards looks at the bottom. I'll just tie them in with vertical slats in hopes of skirting around the building of two new doors.

For hinges, I'm thinking staples in like an L with loops hung on them. I don't think I have strong wood with fine enough grain to work out all wood hinges.

There will be a functioning, pivot and wood bar to hold them shut for sure. With an handle inside and out for use up high as a loft (gotta open from inside) or at ground level (opens from either side)

My livestock sure is eyeballing that tractor about to steal thier new bedding. "Animal Farm: The Final Chapter" 

 

bfishma1 posted: "I figured sub-framing would allow me to give the impression of some broken boards and gaps to shine through ... ". That is what I was thinking. There will be a few boards broken/missing. This isn't going to just be be a barn build, but a mini diorama too, with some "repair" work going on.

I use the pins to keep everything aligned while the glue sets. The work surface is a piece of particle board salvaged from a old compter work station. It's nice and flat. I then laminated a piece of foam core board on top of that. It's the foam core that holds the pins in place.

Last edited by Mark Diff

Adriatic: impressed with both your progress and 80s nightly sitcom reference.  Great choice of colors too as I will be using a similar scheme.  When I first heard the term "breather box" I originally thought of something like a penalty box in hockey. Obviously I was barking up the wrong box.  Looks great and is an interesting addition in detail but ... what exactly is it?  Thinking about possibly working it into my build.

Thanks to all who have posted their progress as well as to those who have offered kind words.  Hope to see some more work up as the week goes on.

Progress the last couple of days:

I usually brush on the stain but I tried this old ziplock bag trick, and it's much faster. After sloshing them around for a minute or two, I laid them out on newspaper.

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I used bfishma1's idea of transferring the plan to the foam core by poking a pin through the paper template. I cut out the sides and ends and oversized window openings with a #11 blade and straight edge by connecting the dots.

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I actually glued the sides and ends together, but before the glue dried, I pulled it apart. I decided that construction would be easier by finishing flat walls. I laid down beads of white glue and placed the Tichy windows as I progressed. The window width was just a little wider than 4 boards, but I could fit the windows without notching them by spacing the boards slightly. This is where my choice of a black foam base really helped. It just looks like the loosely fitting boards of an old barn. When the glue dries I'll trim the excess with a Zona saw.

 

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Bob

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Doc Bob:  Great start!  Great looking staining and smooth cutting on the foam core.  Looks like those windows fit perfectly.  I will borrow your idea of having the template be a dark color to give more of an impression of loosely fitting boards.  Where do you pick up the stirrers?  Thats the exact style I use but have had trouble finding them at various coffee pots around the hospital and offices. They are much more accurate scale wise than the standard ones I seem to find everywhere.

Happy Community Build Day!  Two weeks since we began, one week since our last update, two weeks to go.

Been a busy week focusing on everything BUT my build but I was able to get a few important things done since my last post.  After cutting out the templates from basswood, I first shored up the wood with bracing to help control the inevitable warping that occurs from glue and stain.  I also added "sills" (?) to all windows and doors which were the same dimensions as the bracing.  This would allow not only the interior walls to lay flat and snug against the template when gluing into place but I have also found that they make scratch building windows a little less of a messy affair.  The spacing between the interior wall and outer also provides a nice empty space to hide wires if I decide to add lights later.  I then temporary glued all the sides together with rubber cement to make sure that everything lined up and was square.

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With a few more experiments on cardboard simulating "real wood" under my belt I finally felt confident in the results I was getting and decided to include them in this build as my interior walls.  This process is much cheaper and less time consuming than individually gluing boards and also allows quick and easy manipulation as far a trimming to ensure a snug fit.

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With some nervousness and slight hesitation I glued the inner wall cardboard inserts into place and I am pleased with the look and the results.  

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Excited to see and hear the results of your builds this past week and look forward to getting honest and helpful feedback.  Show 'em if you got 'em 

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Hey, I like the approach you took building your walls, looks good! 

This week I've completed the sub walls and mocked them up as shown here...

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After being satisfied that there wouldn't be any problems assembling them, I spray painted all the areas not exposed (i.e. "seen") flat black...

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Here are the windows I am using for the one side of the barn...

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The group of six are modified Tichy 4x4 windows, the bottom two were modified from windows I had in my parts stash. The one on the lower right is what I combined to make the 3x4. It is the last one I have, so I'm glad I didn't screw it up.

Here are the windows primed. After they dry, I will give them a black wash to dirty them up and  attempt the peeling paint trick.

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With the windows painted in standard barn red, I am waiting for them to dry. After which I will attempt to remove the sub-strait material to show the weathered grey beneath. If this works, I will go into greater detail how this worked...

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Moving onto the roof. I want to have a corrugated metal roof. I found this material on ebay in what seems like an eternity ago, well at least not this century. I have been saving it for the coal mine I am going to build someday. Any how, I spray painted some strips a silver color. After it dries I will spray them with a flat clear spray (i.e. dullcoat) that kills the shine giving them more of a galvanized look. Then I will paint streaks of many different shades of rust before cutting them into individual "sheets"...

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Finally, the UPS man delivered my strip wood order today. Here are the stains I am thinking of using...

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Bfish, I am going the individual board route, so over this next week its is going to be cut, stain, glue repeat. Here are some of the pieces I managed to cut so far...IMG_1291

Just a few hundred more to go! Have a good week, I am off to cut some more sticks.

 

 

 

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Mark and Bfish, looks great!

I noticed that some barns have the wall planks of the upper stories overlapping the lower stories to prevent water from running down the wall into the end grain of the planks below.  I wanted 3 levels of wood planks.  I had to cut the planks to scale 10' lengths which is a little short for the prototype, but then again, my 28'x 48' barn is compressed. I used the same coffee stirrers as spacers to accomplish this.  I also staggered the planks so the vertical spaces did not line up.

All of this did complicate the window and loft door construction.  In hindsight, I should have lowered the windows another 1/4".

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I drybrushed red craft pain on each level as I completed it.  I applied it heavier under the eaves and under the overlaps where there would be more protection from  sun and rain. In the photo, my lighting blew out the grey stain, but it actually looks grey.

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The loft door was done with some stripwood I had around.  There are 2 knot holes  at bottom center and bottom right.  These were "natural" in the coffee stirrers, but his old barn needs a lot more of them.  With 2 weeks left, that is going to have to wait!

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Well, one side is done (except painting the windows), three to go.  Then the roof and the stone walls.  I'm away for the weekend, so it'll be a lot of evenings work starting on Monday.

Bob

 

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Last edited by RRDOC

Another week in the books for this February Community Build.  Been a busy and eventful seven days for me and thus I was unable to attend to my barn as much as I would have liked.  Hoping to get the roof squared away later tonight but have already measured and cut the supports and roof inserts.  This being my first two story build I also was able to finish up both the first floor and the second floor in the hayloft.  I always design my builds to be taken apart in sections for future indoor interior details so this extra layer has been an interesting design challenge.

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Hope your week has been slightly less hectic than mine and you were able to make some meaningful progress on your builds!  Throw them up here and give those following an update on the status of your barns 

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