If one has a truck on an engine with three sets of wheels and the leading and second are flanged but the third (non-geared) not, is there anyway to replace the third set with flanged so that the truck doesn't protrude on curves?
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Miguelito posted:If one has a truck on an engine with three sets of wheels and the leading and second are flanged but the third (non-geared) not, is there anyway to replace the third set with flanged so that the truck doesn't protrude on curves?
There is, but it isn't all that easy, plus you better have pretty large diameter curves after making all three axles equipped with flanged wheels.
Yes. Pull off the "blind" wheels, (may need a wheel puller) and replace with a new axle with 2-rail or 3-rail wheels. Make sure to "gauge your new wheels.
Depending on who makes the engine may determine how much you spend on replacing the wheels. I don't personally recommend swapping out unflanged wheels for flanged as the company who made the engine must know what they are doing, also the engine may need larger curves after you add a third set of flanged wheels.
I have changed over some Williams plastic wheels on an SD-45 to metal wheels because it had traction tires and was loosing the outside rail power.
Lee Fritz
About half way down on the page is my instructions, including the tool I used for my MTH PA trucks.
https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/t...-ls25-mild-3rsing-of
Good luck!
Thanks,
Mario
As Mr Water implies, it's all geometry and physics. If you flange the silly wheel (I hate this design truck) it probably won't go around your curves (typical O-gauge, I presume) at all - unless you then remove the flange on the middle wheel (though that may bring up a strange dance, too). Which is a whole 'nuther kettle of fish, essentially "impossible" here (nothing really is) within the scope of do-I-really-want-to-do-this?
These "6-wheel" trucks, aren't - they are 4-wheel trucks (note the improper pivot point for true 6-wheel trucks) with a ruffle hung off one end. This is one reason it swings out in the weeds.
Just live with it.
On the MTH trucks with the blind center wheel, I replaced it with a flanged wheel. Works good ! I do have 120" diameter curves. Would really work great if the axles where sprung.
Clem
clem k posted:On the MTH trucks with the blind center wheel, I replaced it with a flanged wheel. Works good ! I do have 120" diameter curves. Would really work great if the axles where sprung.
Clem
That's exactly what I did, and I sprung the axle!
I've never had a problem, the club's mainline curves are 80.
CentralFan1976 posted:clem k posted:On the MTH trucks with the blind center wheel, I replaced it with a flanged wheel. Works good ! I do have 120" diameter curves. Would really work great if the axles where sprung.
Clem
That's exactly what I did, and I sprung the axle!
I've never had a problem, the club's mainline curves are 80.
Very good, but don't try that with anything UNDER 072.
It is worth the effort.
My MTH Sd-9 's flangeless wheel was at the end and not in the center.,flopped all over the place and was plastic.
I replace it with a metal flanged wheel but eventually had to put the plastic one back...It still flopped all over the place but now shorted out on the center rail.. I guess I should have some type of bearing.
clem k posted:On the MTH trucks with the blind center wheel, I replaced it with a flanged wheel. Works good ! I do have 120" diameter curves. Would really work great if the axles where sprung.
Clem
One doesn't necessarily need wide curves to accomodate six wheel flanged trucks. My Fundimensions era re-release of a 2426w die cast tender came with heavy, diecast six wheel trucks where all of the wheels have flanges. That tender has no issues whatsoever going around 036 fastrack curves. Granted, powered diesel trucks are another matter (My MTH Railking F3s are the type with the "faux" trucks that superficially appear to be large six wheel ones but in reality only have four).
Dan Fender posted:One doesn't necessarily need wide curves to accomodate six wheel flanged trucks. My Fundimensions era re-release of a 2426w die cast tender came with heavy, diecast six wheel trucks where all of the wheels have flanges. That tender has no issues whatsoever going around 036 fastrack curves. Granted, powered diesel trucks are another matter (My MTH Railking F3s are the type with the "faux" trucks that superficially appear to be large six wheel ones but in reality only have four).
Your Funny-D tender truck also has a much shorter wheelbase than a 6-wheel diesel truck.
Rusty
D500 pointed out the problem in his post above.
Realize that there's a big difference between the trucks with the blind wheels at the end of the truck compared to those with the blind wheels in the center position.
With the ones with the blind wheels at the end, the pivot point and the weight of the engine isn't over the center of the wheelbase of the truck, but closer to the end with the flanged wheels.
They would appear to be very unstable if you add flanges at the "light" end. That end is sure to have difficulty tracking properly and staying on the rails, particularly on switches.
Jim
Miguelito posted:If one has a truck on an engine with three sets of wheels and the leading and second are flanged but the third (non-geared) not, is there anyway to replace the third set with flanged so that the truck doesn't protrude on curves?
Trucks similar to these Weaver trucks which were done with a third axle, plastic wheels, or steel wheels. The two C630 models, that I have, one has plastic wheels, as the third set, the other steel wheels. On O54, the steel will spark, and arc to the center rail. Should be a relatively easy change if you have either the flanged wheels, or an axle with the flanged wheels. You would also need equipment to pull and re-install wheels on the axles Increase your operation from O54 to probably O90 or more.
Weaver did other 3 axles trucks with the flange-less wheels in the middle. Still both trucks power two axles at one end of the truck. Second picture is probably a better operating unit.
Mike CT posted:Miguelito posted:If one has a truck on an engine with three sets of wheels and the leading and second are flanged but the third (non-geared) not, is there anyway to replace the third set with flanged so that the truck doesn't protrude on curves?
Trucks similar to these Weaver trucks which were done with a third axle, plastic wheels, or steel wheels. The two C630 models, that I have, one has plastic wheels, as the third set, the other steel wheels. On O54, the steel will spark, and arc to the center rail. Should be a relatively easy change if you have either the flanged wheels, or an axle with the flanged wheels. You would also need equipment to pull and re-install wheels on the axles Increase your operation from O54 to probably O90 or more.
Weaver did other 3 axles trucks with the flange-less wheels in the middle. Still both trucks power two axles at one end of the truck. Second picture is probably a better operating unit.
This second picture is the solution. Add the extra idler gears and put the blind wheel in the center. To me that should be a no brained. Some have done this already.
