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Some PROs to start:  

  • lightweight
  • easily carvable - both for irregular edges or curves to the train board, and to create slopes - either steep or gradual
  • helpful with sound absorbtion
  • low cost
  • strong enough to bridge 16" centers without sagging sufficient for train and scenery weight
  • easily stackable to build heights and mountains, and carve-able for ravines and canyons
  • accepts latex paint and glue OK
  • can be screwed using Gorilla glue (an expanding foam glue) to build a strong screw socket, or combined with drywall screw anchors with glue  (I have done this myself for Fastrack, and the screws can be removed to reposition the track)
  • Has been shown can be shaped and cut with minimal "dust"
  • does not block wifi signals, is insulating 
  • a small slot can be carved in the surface using a knife, to push wires into, which can be then be run near the train-board surface without under-table wiring
  • easy to drill, or no-drill with an ice-pick or nail for running wires through the foam board
  • can be combined with other scenery techniques
  • can be used with expanding spray foam to build and fill terrain and hills

CONs: 

  • not as strong as wood or other materials
  • some have mentioned a fire risk: creates noxious combustion fumes
Last edited by Ken-Oscale
Lyle posted:

I'm building a new layout the previous I had 1/2 plywood top with black insulation board on top. I'v been reading that some use foam board on top of there table. Are there pros/cons for this usage?

You could also try acoustic ceiling tiles that are used in drop ceilings. I've used them and am very happy with the sound deadening. They also take paint well, cut fairly easily and will hold screws.

Just my 2 cents.

Cheers

Marc

Extruded pink foam (glued to plywood) with O-gauge cork glued atop the foam has worked very well for laying track and creating scenery on my model railroad. The cork holds track screws well and, if you prefer, a bit of epoxy can be applied to the tip of the screw to permanently fasten it into the cork. This type of construction makes for lightweight terrain that can easily be stacked and carved to create hills, valleys, riverbeds, cuts and fills.

MELGAR

My layout is being built with a combination of 1/2 inch OSB, 3/4 INCH high density foam and a second layer of 1/4 INCH FOAM. Frame work is 1x4's on a 24 inch spacing.  I use 2 inch drywall screws to hold gargraves turnouts in place, going into the OSB.  I paint the foam flat black before installing the track, therefore cutting down on the amount of ballast I would need.   The flex track is glued to the foam using black latex caulk that has silicone in it. The 1/4 INCH FOAM is used to make the ties disappear into the scenery as if the rail has worked itself into the ground. Since mine is a switching layout, the track looks like it is poorly ballasted. The high density foam holds up to the weight of the trains very well. 

Quite a few modular layouts are built on 2" foam without any wood, weight being a prime factor in the choice.  They survive repeated assembly and disassembly.

I have used ceiling tile both at home and on modules.  I won't use the tiles on modules anymore:  the weight is a real killer when it needs to be portable.

As many of us do when I decided to build my layout I used mainly what was on hand including three wood kitchen tables. I built some connecting sections of open grid from 1x4, adjusted heights and covered everything with 2" or 1" foam. I run mainly postwar type trains. Foam provides plenty of support but the one section of foam just on the grid is noisy  even for me. Its the unsupported foam acting like a drum head between the cross pieces. On modules this might not be an issue as there is a weight trade off.

David

My 10 by 20 foot modular layout is 2inch foam on top of 2 x 4 framing. It has been in use for 16 years and been through half a dozen major moves with minimal damage. I love the light weight and being foam it makes drilling and adding scenary a breeze. I have cork roadbed and used a combination of glue and track nails with no problems. The only problem I have had is the foam separating in spots from the plywood frame, but some glue and clamps fixed that.

Miketg

I used two inch pink foam on my layout without any wood at all. The framing was Mianne bench work. Works very well with no sag or problems the past couple of years. 

The track which is SuperO is glued in place with white glue. Every 5 or six sections. If needed the track can be removed very easily with some warm water, couple of drops dishwashing soap and some 90% alcohol 

Dave

I used some 1/2"-5/8" green foam  and a tube of flexible foam adhesive and primed the plywood middle. I  would use much thicker foam next time. I used a few small hand and knee boards from 1/8" masonite paneling. It has supported a pals 280ish without damage ...I have one heel of my palm make a low spot, Palm Pond IMO, structure foam is plenty good enough a surface for most trains when noise and layout weight is also a factor. 

Scraps are rocky scenery

My Christmas layout is made very similar to TedW's.  Structurally, it has held up well for 3 years.  I then added cheap indoor outdoor carpet under my snow blanket, with FastTrak on top.  The sound is deadened some. 

For my "permanent" layout modules, I'm using GarGraves on cork on used Homasote.  It isn't as loud.  I want to be able to hear those expensive sound units in my scale engines. 

 

Adriatic, Palm Pond!!  I love it!!! 

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