Gaps at joints in Gargraves track

I'm sure this has been answered before but I sure can't find it after numerous searches. Gargraves pins have an upset in the middle ( I assume to keep the pin equally centered in the track) which prevents the tracks from being assembled with no gap. When I look at photos of layouts I never see this gap. Am I missing something? Do I need to put on my John Wayne pants and force the tracks together?

Any input would be appreciated, Steve

Original Post

To get rid of the gap once you get two pieces together ( best have first piece screwed in place ) take a small block of wood and put it across the ends of the rails of the second piece and tap it with a hammer, this will close the gaps. 

The last layout I had I left them, as it gave the sound of a train going across where the rails joined like the real ones use to sound.

Bill

In all the years I have used Gar Graves track I just pushed the track together up to the upset in the middle. As Bill said it gives a nice sound when the wheels go over them. Also I figured that the little space would be good in case of expansion due to temperature changes.............Paul

I just use a small hammer and tap the pin(s) into the end of the rail(s) slightly past the tiny hump at the center point. Two sections of track then join tightly...or tightly enough so a significant gap is not evident. And, no, it does not distort the end of the rail (in case that question comes up).

Allan Miller posted:

I just use a small hammer and tap the pin(s) into the end of the rail(s) slightly past the tiny hump at the center point. Two sections of track then join tightly...or tightly enough so a significant gap is not evident. And, no, it does not distort the end of the rail (in case that question comes up).

Allan is right. You tap the pin until the little hump in the center is in one section of the track when you assemble the track there will not be any gap. I think those who have trouble with rubber traction tires being damaged could be caused by gaps in their track.

I remember when they were just pins with no hump. And having to be careful that when putting sections together the pin would at times slide all the way into one of the track. Then they started adding the hump which preventing the sliding.............Paul

paul 2 posted:

I remember when they were just pins with no hump. And having to be careful that when putting sections together the pin would at times slide all the way into one of the track. Then they started adding the hump which preventing the sliding.............Paul

The little hump is so small that once it is just a tiny bit in a rail, it holds firmly and does not distort the rail itself. No real danger that it will easily slip further into its respective rail, and the open-ended rail that this rail attaches to will grip the protruding end of the pin tightly enough. At least that has been my experience.

Great tips here but if the loop has already been assembled, screwed down and you still see gaps, clean the pin joints (I use a Dremel with a wire brush) then apply a bead of solder with your soldering gun.  To finish use a file and a small Dremel stone to smooth and shape the joint.  If you do it right you won't see any joint at all.

Builder of the Hill Lines ( New Delta Lines). Recreating history for the model RR community.

I have over 500feet of Ross track and probably 25 Ross switches, I have the little gaps, no problems, i did not do anything special, just pushed the track together with my hands.  DCS and Legacy and no issues.  If I look real close I can see the gaps, but with 51 year old eyes, they don’t bother me.

All good tips. You just have to use what's easiest and best for you. My track is, at present, just temporarily laid in place so I can change my mind on what arrangement I want on my new layout. It's easy enough for me to take sections apart and adjust things as necessary to reduce or eliminate any gaps I feel are too large.

Once I am basically satisfied with my track plan (getting closer now), I will outline the track positions;  remove the track in sections and paint the track and ties; install Woodland Scenics foam roadbed (I have boxes of the stuff already, acquired over several years); drill holes in select ties; and then affix the track with screws. All my track is Gargraves, and all my switches are Ross.

The layout will also have a Superstreets/E-Z Streets trolley line and, on another level, a point-to-point On30 narrow gauge line (Atlas HO track) serving a dedicated industry.

Allan Miller posted:

All good tips. You just have to use what's easiest and best for you. My track is, at present, just temporarily laid in place so I can change my mind on what arrangement I want on my new layout. It's easy enough for me to take sections apart and adjust things as necessary to reduce or eliminate any gaps I feel are too large.

Once I am basically satisfied with my track plan (getting closer now), I will outline the track positions;  remove the track in sections and paint the track and ties; install Woodland Scenics foam roadbed (I have boxes of the stuff already, acquired over several years); drill holes in select ties; and then affix the track with screws. All my track is Gargraves, and all my switches are Ross.

The layout will also have a Superstreets/E-Z Streets trolley line and, on another level, a point-to-point On30 narrow gauge line (Atlas HO track) serving a dedicated industry.

Allan, have you considered using adhesive to attach the track to the road bed? I've seen many favorable responses with this technique not only on 0 gauge but HO and N. Just wondering.

Steve

 

 

Rescued Trains posted:

Allan, have you considered using adhesive to attach the track to the road bed? I've seen many favorable responses with this technique not only on 0 gauge but HO and N. Just wondering.

Steve

 

 

Can't say that I ever considered using adhesive instead of screws, but would not be opposed to it as long as the track could be taken up without damage to the track or the roadbed. I do use ordinary white glue to affix the roadbed to the plywood, and had good success in the past removing or re-aligning the roadbed when I needed to

I am almost sure Gar Graves sells the pins without the stop in them as well, i pull the pins out a bit and give them a couple of swipes with a hand file to get rid of it before putting the sections together.

 

FCTT HIRAILERS ROCHESTER NY        TCA16-72004

You may also encounter the Dippity – Doo roller coaster effect between sections. Add an extra tie on each end of section to correct this issue.

Gargraves track has become an out dated item by today’s products. Their later production manual switches are the best in flawless operation and low cost price of $36.00 on average.

As for track, I prefer MTH Scale Trax with nice rails  (not tubes) and thin center rail slightly wider than Super O.

If you run old sparky Lionel PW power units, the Gargraves black center rail will become silver and rough after a while. No longer a good choice I.M.O.

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