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I use Gargraves. I have a 4 track passenger yard with tracks separated  by  platforms that can’t be moved. The 4 tracks are “stub ended” at a mirror.  These yard tracks were accessed by 042  Gargraves switches off the main. To make my sidings longer, I removed the Gargraves switches, and bought a Ross 4 way... beautiful, but not cheap.  What is the best way to fit the Ross 4 way to the existing sidings without making a mess of things. I do not want to cut the Ross 4 way. Thanks, JohnA

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I suggest a track planning program, I personally use AnyRail.  For even spacing for the 4-way, it appears that it will be 3.63" center to center for tracks coming straight out.  Not knowing how much space you have to fit the 4-way or what the platforms look like, it's really hard to give real suggestions.  The reason I like the track planning programs is they're great for answering these kinds of questions.  Keep in mind that the 4-way alone is two feet long!

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FWIW, I have two of these that will go into my future freight yard, just trying to get the main platform done first.

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I am modifying an existing layout. This is a 4x12 foot section. SEE PICS.   I guess what I am looking for is the best way to connect the existing (blue) yard tracks to the switch off the main, with the Ross 4 way joining them in the middle. Do I remove the yard tracks, connect to the 4 way, then trim the yard tracks where they butt up to the mirror?  I  don’t want a mess of joints and filler pieces. JohnA 35ABDA3A-DF96-46E8-9FC4-4D8E9866F01B8F4153F3-ADED-4CDD-99A7-34BDBBCC2205

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Don' t ignore the question about the center-to-center spacing created by your station platforms vs. what the 4-way switch creates before "filler" or "fitter" pieces.  The spacing of your platforms may require the use of flex-track right off of the switch to obtain the desired effect.  Then run your track through the station and cut your last pieces to butt up to the mirror.

Chuck

John,  I think your best method for laying this out is to install the 4 way where it’s going to go. Leave your present yard tracks in place. Connect everything up using flextrack. The problem now is hooking the track together with pins. It can be done.  Gargraves makes something that may help. They are flat pieces of metal that will insert in the web of the rail and rest on the roadbed. Rather than trying to connect the track together using the pins and distorting it all over the place. You just slide the last tie back a bit and the flex section of track and it just drops over the Gargraves strips as the rail spreads open. Once it’s on you can slide the tie back in place. You could probably substitute some thin brass stock. If your worried about electrical continuity. You can solder small jumpers to the rails.

I’ve done this a few times making track changes to a ballasted pike. I usually use the brass strips and solder them into one set of rails. I think the Gargraves ones maybe stainless. In your case. Maybe the do it to four way before it’s on the layout. Pins will be used to your station  tracks and then you can drop the rails in place on your 4 way. Just leave the rails slightly long and keep test fitting and filing it till it fits right.

By the way. That’s a great looking scene.

@Dave_C posted:

John, Goggle. Gargraves 910-4 connectors. Most dealers seem to stock them. They come in a pack of 25.

WOW Dave, I had not seen those before, you learn something every day here!   I'm going to grab a couple packs of those tomorrow when I'm at the store, they look real handy.  They would be especially good when you're making changes after everything is in place, no need to make a mess pulling up a bunch of track to get the pins in!

@Tom Tee posted:
Now you have full connection with out using the 910-4 fish plates.

LOOK MA, NO PINS!!

Atlas 3 rail, rail joiners on GG and Ross rails, dress up the joint a tad with a fine flat file and you are ready to go:

Tom, I can't see the logic in trying to cobble Atlas rail joiners on an all Gargraves/Ross setup, what is the perceived advantage?  Personally, If I were replacing all the track in front of the station, I'd have probably just used the pins, but then I didn't know about the fish plates, they might make it easier.  However, I'm struggling with the logic of using Atlas Rail Joiners, I've never been wild about them with Atlas track.  Trying to bend the skinny Gargraves rail and make it fit cleanly into the Atlas joiner seems like it wouldn't be that easy or neat.

The fins should work the same with Ross track, it has the same split.  Note that I just found out about these, and I've never used them, but this is just from looking at the two track types here. They look like a painless way to slip in new track sections while leaving existing track screwed down.

I'm going to grab some of the fins today when I go to the store to pick up my 0-6-0T locomotives.  I'm guessing when I decide that I want to change something in the track layout, these might make the track work a bit easier than pulling up enough track to disengage the pins.

The Gargraves blade type connectors work great.  I use them at places where I may have to remove a section of track temporarily or where I am modifying an existing section.  Here are a few shots of where I used them on a drop down.  On the dropdown, I usually don't slide the ties back, but at other locations I do.  Would also work well if you are building a modular layout with Gargraves track.IMG_2780IMG_2781

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