Moonman posted:You make the terminal blocks into a bus by jumpering one side. You can use whatever you have. Some thin bare solid wire, a group of forked spade terminals with small wire loops.
The will give you multiple hot taps and the other for multiple common taps. Mark them to remind you.
"I'm makin' angels!"
that is a very simple workaround that I had not considered. thanks for the inspiration
Moonman posted:I viewed the video with my 5 year old grandson. He really liked the pylons and thought the cookies and milk train was cool after I pointed out what the cars where. He's just learning to read. He asked me "where did he build it?". I thought he meant like the garage or something. He wanted to come over and see it. We visit a lot of layouts for trips. He didn't like that we are kinda far apart.
LOL, very nice. I had an extra G-gauge Lionel set that I bought by accident. I never opened it. I asked the new neighbor next door if he would be interested in having it for free to use under the Christmas tree since they have three young kids. This was back in October. He said sure but never followed up. I didn't want to push it on him. Last night, I noticed a train set box out by the trash. He apparently got his own. I couldn't tell what brand or model, but the kids had a train under the tree so good enough for me!
Thanks for the jumper strip idea. I think I will order two of those and problem solved. FYI, I did have a separate post going about how to wire accessories and it can be found below. I posted a fuller response there for the sake of continuity:
I got several K-line push button switches from the LHS for dirt cheap. So far, I installed one for use with the Red Baron pylon. I would have preferred the wires to be hidden and only the black case and orange button be visible. If you have any suggestions, please advise. Thanks
Garrett76 posted:I got several K-line push button switches from the LHS for dirt cheap. So far, I installed one for use with the Red Baron pylon. I would have preferred the wires to be hidden and only the black case and orange button be visible. If you have any suggestions, please advise. Thanks
Garrett,
To mount it from the back, you would need to trace the black box and cut a square hole with a jig saw. Drill a pilot hole to get started. That looks like a 2x4, so you would also need to use a router to route out space for the flanges and wires in the back at a depth of 1.25" to 1.5", being careful not to route through the front face. I see you used some small nails to mount the switch on the edges. You will need to find some very short screws to mount the switch from behind to avoid punching through the front, or you could glue the switch in. You could use silicone caulk to glue it in which would make the switch removeable in the future. (Don't push the button until the caulk fully dries though.)
George
Two slots at the box edges and copper strips through the wood to engage the screw terminals. The wire can be soldered on before hand. This requires drilling a few holes for a slot, but will be less appearant .
Or...
Drill out the back side of the unit under each terminal and through the wood behind it.. (If it has a metal backside make sure to use a plastic or rubber bushing to insulate each post. ) Pass a longer screw through the terminal, out the back, and then through the wood. Secure with a lock nut, creating a terminal post. Buy finger nuts to match, or just use a plain nut under the table. The successfulness of the original screws coming out and leaving the threads intact is yet to be seen, but that would have more to do with future reuse than use here.
Or...
Removing those awful, ugly, crimp hindering plastic pieces and using good thick black shrink tube right to the screw head will give a more professional look to anything you do.
Shrink tube done right also prevents wire shear at the crimp connector ( Here a better look without drilling more holes, too). You also appear to be using too small a U connector, or are over torquing the screws. I.e. they look bent & spread out. Ring connectors are better for that reason.
Take that Red Baron!
Garretts 2016 Christmas Village video is a Crowd Pleasing Event, Its a Must See and Appreciate for all in the Hobby of Model Railroading...Do to new electronics this is a lot easier to do....Thank You for the neat video and your Layout is Amazing! Happy New Year...
Second video uploaded to youtube. The opening video sequence is the same, but everything else is new
The doorbell button is great for a momentary switch. On/Off buttons and momentary buttons can be had off on eBay. Micro-toggles are less obvious for On/Off.
Layout still up. Some night shots
Love the night shots! Where can I find one of those sweet flying Santa's Sleights???
The night photos are great, Garrett! I thought they were taken from Santa's sleigh, but now I see what Janitor John is referring too. Cool!
Garrett,
If you want to run 031 track inside your 036 FasTrack use 031 MTH RealTrax, it engineers out perfectly. I use this engineering plan on the 1st level of my Christmas layout all the time, it will allow you to use your 1st engineering design plan as you wanted to.
PCRR/Dave
Garratt,
I use door bell switches. The wires go out the back and the button is easy enough for most kids to push easily. As a word of caution, avoid the lighted door bell switches as they allow some current through all the time.
Also they are inexpensive, usually only a couple bucks a piece.
JHZ
I had forgotten about the "elves party cars" with the Dementor effect. Someone had complained about it a couple of years ago. I like them.
Janitor John posted:Love the night shots! Where can I find one of those sweet flying Santa's Sleights???
It's a Dept 56 Snow Village item titled Up, Up & Away. Should be able to get for about $25
Pine Creek Railroad posted:Garrett,
If you want to run 031 track inside your 036 FasTrack use 031 MTH RealTrax, it engineers out perfectly. I use this engineering plan on the 1st level of my Christmas layout all the time, it will allow you to use your 1st engineering design plan as you wanted to.
PCRR/Dave
Thanks for the suggestion. I did make some alterations to my plan. The back flat surface area is going to be the base for some to-be-built vertical scenery items. Stay tuned
jhz563 posted:Garratt,
I use door bell switches. The wires go out the back and the button is easy enough for most kids to push easily. As a word of caution, avoid the lighted door bell switches as they allow some current through all the time.
Also they are inexpensive, usually only a couple bucks a piece.
JHZ
Thanks. I'll look into it. I like the look of the K-line buttons, just not the exposed wires
Moonman posted:I had forgotten about the "elves party cars" with the Dementor effect. Someone had complained about it a couple of years ago. I like them.
I stumbled across the post while trying to figure out what the heck was going on with those cars. The North Pole Central reindeer cars are really nice. My only nitpick is that Prancer does not have an operating coupler in the rear. I wanted to place the cars in name order according to the song
I'm continuing to work on this layout so the 2017 setup will go quickly
MTH rotating beacon wired and working at the press of a button
Garrett76 posted:I'm continuing to work on this layout so the 2017 setup will go quickly
MTH rotating beacon wired and working at the press of a button
Love the rotating beacon, especially one with both red and green! I modified my KLine one to change one side from green to red, so I had both.
George S posted:Garrett76 posted:I'm continuing to work on this layout so the 2017 setup will go quickly
MTH rotating beacon wired and working at the press of a button
Love the rotating beacon, especially one with both red and green! I modified my KLine one to change one side from green to red, so I had both.
agreed! The product box said nothing about a green side, so I asked permission of the owner at the LHS if I could open the box to confirm
Lionel Nutcracker Auto Gateman up and running by button press
Very nice, like the follow up posts too!
Garrett,
Fantastic additions, I love them both!
PCRR/Dave
MTH Gabe the Lamplighter wired and the lights work. Gabe buzzes but unfortunately does not climb. Probably another victim of the Post Office delivering my packages around like Ace Ventura https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Q6_9A90cUk
Garrett, you did a great job!
the button-activated operating accessories were HUGE hits with the visiting kids. the most popular was a tie between the auto gateman and the red baron pylon. I did not have time to wire the MTH scale crossing gates. With them, I planned to wire in the bell speaker from the other MTH crossing signal set. If I had, I'm sure we would have heard the dinging all night. Lots of smiles all around. I highly encourage everyone to add a few button-activated accessories to add interaction for your guests. I have a few scenery items and overall finishing elements to add as next year's improvements.
Garrett,
I'm glad it was a hit with the kids! Great photo!
If you want a truly proffesional button, that can also be serviced by popping a new microswitch on the rear, or replacing a single part, look at the coin-op amusement offerings.
Large, small, lit, glow in the dark, I near any color, you name it, they make it. They have deep ones too, a 2" depth should be out there. The pinball flipper and cabinet video game buttons are designed for severe abuse, safety, and easy maintenance. A single big hole near 1"(? I forget how big) and you're likely done with the drill.
The actual switch pops into a plastic bracket on the rear with one hand, and because the switch is separate, the voltage/amperage of it can be taylored to suit the need, and most switch Mfg brands will fit it.. Also a bonus, many times the parts fit other brands of buttons too. They are considered to be "universal". The lighted 3" square one and pinball flipper type, usually fit the same hole.
They also have clear versions that hold labels, and escutcheon plates to protect the cabinet around the button, which also hold labels sometimes.
In bulk, even small bulk, the price often drops rapidly.(note which, if any, switch is included with the buttons, mention getting both too, if you have a non-profit behind you, etc.) My "best price" references would be outdated.
Initial cost might be more, but the long term economics of the system around public abuse is well proven.
Working on coin-op, I saw kids break the indestructible. The amazements too long to list. I still can't figure out some of it. Short of antigravity fields, soda being on a down facing mother board in an inaccessible area inside a cabinet can't happen, but did. I saw layered welds get broke that would have worked on a semi truck frame... Amazing stuff!)
With lots of kids around, these buttons might be worth it to you long term 
So might a wire cover on the backside..... Hide the screwdrivers .
Forget that...Hide everything, watch for group attacks, and destraction tactics, lol.
Garrett,
Although I really like the electronics in the L.C. Plus, the high grade colors on my Hallmark Santa Express Christmas Train definitely has it all over the L.C. Plus colors. If Lionel makes a Plus version of Hall Mark Santa Express, with the high grade colors, I will also own it. I do really like the Green on the North Pole Train, wish it was a high gloss color however.
PCRR/Dave
Pine Creek Railroad posted:Garrett,
Although I really like the electronics in the L.C. Plus, the high grade colors on my Hallmark Santa Express Christmas Train definitely has it all over the L.C. Plus colors. If Lionel makes a Plus version of Hall Mark Santa Express, with the high grade colors, I will also own it. I do really like the Green on the North Pole Train, wish it was a high gloss color however.
PCRR/Dave
Dave, I too, love the Hallmark Santa's Express - in fact so much so that I have two sets. The set must either have not sold well enough for Hallmark or additional Lionel licensing fees weren't to Hallmark's liking since it has been discontinued for 2018 and also Hallmark never produced additional cars for it. (Although perhaps the lack of additional cars not being made was because that engine has the same "small, puny sized" motor Lionel puts in many of it's rtr 0-8-0 starter sets and so because of it, the engine can't pull many additional cars on grades without stressing that motor.)
Unfortunately, because of all that I've mentioned I doubt that there will ever be a LionChief Plus version of that set by either Lionel or Hallmark.
Garrett,
I love your layout! It is a classic.
NYC Fan posted:Garrett,
I love your layout! It is a classic.
thanks! I have a separate thread going for the 2017 layout. I can say that the new design has evolved beyond what I posted and it is going to rock. It will be a little while before post updates but please stay tuned.
thanks
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