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Having done a fair amount of research on the subject lately, I have discovered a few interesting things. The two most popular gearbox greases appear to be white lithium of various brands(Labelle, Tamiya) and Red n’ Tacky.

Which is better? The most convincing  data reported in this forum appears to be from bob2 who described his experience repairing gearboxes of locomotives that had heavy daily use on the O Scale layout of the San Diego Model Railroad Museum.  He noted that white lithium grease was used exclusively and the gearboxes held up for years of daily use. He did not specify which brand of white lithium.  My own experience is that white lithium grease tends to dry out but this in a setting of long storage of several months and in fairly dry climate.  So it could be the regular use that may keep the grease from drying out or it could be the specific brand I used.  If bob2 reads this post, I am curious about which brand of white grease the museum used.

Red n’ Tacky seems very robust.  It is lithium grease as well but appears to lithium complex type designed for marked water resistance necessary for axle bearings in the outside environment.  Many forum members tout it, but no one has really reported how it holds up to the use that bob2 described. White lithium appears to be a straight lithium soap grease.

What if you want to switch from red to white lithium grease, are they compatible? Do you need to immaculately clean out all the old grease to make the switch?  The good news is that if you wanted to switch from one to the other they are compatible per this article:

https://www.machinerylubricati...d/882/mixing-greases

Last edited by swrr
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I generally try to clean out old grease, but I don't go crazy.  For stuff like large steam with the drive shaft and worm in a gearbox, you can usually remove the cover and take the worm out to clean up.  For diesels, you can pull the motors and clean the worm and truck gear.  For more sealed gearboxes, I just try to pump in as much grease as I can hopefully pushing some of the old grease out.

I admit to cheaping out.  The grease I used for SDMRR Museum is either Lubriplate or Balkamp "Lithease."  They probably come from the same vat, and I have pint cans of both.

For my own models I use much more expensive LaBelle Teflon gear lubricant.  I do not have gear failures here, but on the other hand I rarely run stuff.  My test loop is out of commission due to mostly a lack of interest.

Red and Tacky sounded a bit like a 3-rail fad - I never tried it.

Lithium does dry out a bit, but it remains slippery.  I coated my control cables with it in 1969 and while dry, you can pinch it and feel its slipperiness.  On the other hand, if you get a Max Gray loco that has never been run, you will need a tiny jackhammer to get that truly hardened grease out.

Not an expert.  Hope that helps.

Labelle 106 is a great choice because it has PTFE and it's "plastic friendly". Some petroleum distillates can damage plastic and paint. PTFE adheres to the gears in the model train gear boxes where it counts, and as you know, PTFE is more slippery than plain old grease. Most model railroad brick & motars carry it.

https://labelle-lubricants.com/

FYI - White lithium grease is petroleum distillate based, so it can damage plastic.

@bob2 posted:


Red and Tacky sounded a bit like a 3-rail fad - I never tried it.



I love these lubrication threads!

I am glad to find out that the "3 Rail fad" groupies  (US) have made Lucas Oil a significant player in the lubrication market.  Now, products are sold in 30,000 locations and they named the Indianapolis Colts stadium.  Well done 3 rail fad team and your support of red n tacky!

See the source image

@swrr posted:

All, particularly bob2,

Thank you for the very helpful replies.

Rob

Just use common sense, ain’t gotta be a life long study about property this, property that,….you’re greasing a model train, not the space shuttle,….you probably have an acceptable tube of grease in your garage??…..if it’s like tar, it probably isn’t a good idea, if it’s like thin syrup, then it won’t hang around too long ,………if you don’t have any grease or oils laying around, then again, common sense says your best bet would be a Labelle kit that has multiple products in it,….then you’re covered,……the other thing to stop stressing over is plastic safe grease,…..maybe the HO guys have to worry about that in their tiny little world, but I ain’t never seen any grease destroy anything plastic on O gauge/scale models,…if you’ve got grease on a plastic shell, or somewhere it ain’t supposed to be, you’ve got bigger problems than plastic safe grease,….

Pat

This is an important topic for any model group.    In some previous runs the builder put grease in some gearboxes that was too hard and the units did not run at all, or very poorly.     The solution is to take the gear box apart and clean out the old grease and replace it.    So what to replace it with?    Very good, important current topic.    And I am pretty sure automobile grease from garage will cause the same problems.    Mine blew breakers, and barely crawled  until they heated up.

@bob2 posted:

Lithium does dry out a bit, but it remains slippery.  I coated my control cables with it in 1969 and while dry, you can pinch it and feel its slipperiness.  On the other hand, if you get a Max Gray loco that has never been run, you will need a tiny jackhammer to get that truly hardened grease out.

Not an expert.  Hope that helps.

Interesting.

In the Marklin Z scale world (yes, I said "Z" scale!) they have what they call "HOS": "Hardened Oil Syndrome". It takes a complete tear-down and re-lube of the earlier (1970s) stuff in order to get it running again.

Mark in Oregon

I don't think it is worthy of extensive research, but the OP's concerns were valid.  Two rail gearboxes are not nearly as robust as toy trains, and selection of grease is at least important enough to address now and then.

I need to find a half-pint can of the stuff LaBelle sells in that tiny, expensive tube.  Somebody posted what it was a few years back, but I failed to write it down.

Super Lube-21030 Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease
Has ptfe in great stuff use it on my 3d printer bearings and my trains has a decent price on Amazon.

  • Patented synthetic NLGI grade 2 heavy-duty, multipurpose lubricant
  • Dielectric, Food Grade, Clean
  • NSF Rating H-1, safe for incidental food contact
  • Will not drip, run or evaporate
  • compatible with other lubricants
Last edited by Shawn_Chronister
@bob2 posted:

I don't think it is worthy of extensive research, but the OP's concerns were valid.  Two rail gearboxes are not nearly as robust as toy trains, and selection of grease is at least important enough to address now and then.

I need to find a half-pint can of the stuff LaBelle sells in that tiny, expensive tube.  Somebody posted what it was a few years back, but I failed to write it down.

Lubriplate Aero Multi-Purpose Grease, Part Number LO 113-076…………copy it this time Bob,…..😉

Pat

I'm with Bob2, et al...LaBelle 106.

Besides older equipment that has sat unused, unrun for maybe tens of years, some of the very worst examples of lubrication have been more recently produced China products.  More specifically I've had to disassemble at least a dozen pairs of gear boxes on China-made Lionel Gantry Cranes...three sets of my own and several more for our LHS customers.  Whatever the manufacturers THOUGHT was 'grease' turned out quickly becoming a rubbery, gummy, gloppy mass of pure goo that successfully bound up the plastic gearing in both motion boxes on the several versions of that popular accessory.  The two cranes on my layout (one in storage) were thoroughly cleaned and then re-greased with LaBelle 106.  That was several years ago.  Sometimes the cranes will sit unoperated for months.  But when called to action, they immediately, and without hesitation, operate perfectly.

Just yesterday I finished cleaning and re-assembling a PW 736 Berkshire.  New smoke unit, too.  Used 106 in the gearbox, 107/108 for all appropriate wheel axle, drive rod, valve gear, etc., bearing points.  Gave the E-unit a shot of CRC contact cleaner.  The chassis runs flawlessly...the smoke literally billowing in O-rings from the stack.  It's ready for many more years and generations of running.

BTW, if you search "white grease with PTFE" you'll find lots of products on the market.  I don't think there's anything magical about LaBelle's version of what's become a rather generic, common lubricant.  However, because LaBelle's target market is for hobbyists like you and me, and in supporting purveyors of the same (a.k.a., my LHS), I'll stick with their products at their fair pricing.  But, TEHO...IMHO...FWIW.

KD

@harmonyards posted:

Lubriplate Aero Multi-Purpose Grease, Part Number LO 113-076…………copy it this time Bob,…..😉

Pat

I searched Lubriplate's website for that part number (and variations of it), and could not find it.  FWIW, it looks like they express their part numbers in several different formats.

Is this the same stuff?  It appears to be part # L0113-004 (as shown on the tub as pictured) or 11304 (in the description) - hooray for consistency!

https://www.lubriplate.com/Pro...ERO/AERO,-16-OZ-TUB/

Thanks.

@Mallard4468 posted:

I searched Lubriplate's website for that part number (and variations of it), and could not find it.  FWIW, it looks like they express their part numbers in several different formats.

Is this the same stuff?  It appears to be part # L0113-004 (as shown on the tub as pictured) or 11304 (in the description) - hooray for consistency!

https://www.lubriplate.com/Pro...ERO/AERO,-16-OZ-TUB/

Thanks.

I do not know off the top of my head,….the question was asked along time ago on an old HO thread ( not on this forum) where somebody had contacted Fisk Brothers Refinery about which grease was the same as 106,….the above lubriplate part no. LO 113-176 was given,…….the part number may not be in use anymore,…

Pat

@Mallard4468 posted:

I searched Lubriplate's website for that part number (and variations of it), and could not find it.  FWIW, it looks like they express their part numbers in several different formats.

Is this the same stuff?  It appears to be part # L0113-004 (as shown on the tub as pictured) or 11304 (in the description) - hooray for consistency!

https://www.lubriplate.com/Pro...ERO/AERO,-16-OZ-TUB/

Thanks.



@harmonyards posted:

I do not know off the top of my head,….the question was asked along time ago on an old HO thread ( not on this forum) where somebody had contacted Fisk Brothers Refinery about which grease was the same as 106,….the above lubriplate part no. LO 113-176 was given,…….the part number may not be in use anymore,…

Pat

It appears that the last three numbers of this lubriplate product indicate the weight/amount in the container.  Here is the product sheet:

https://www.lubriplate.com/Lub...24_Aero.pdf?ext=.pdf

@swrr posted:


@harmonyards posted:

I do not know off the top of my head,….the question was asked along time ago on an old HO thread ( not on this forum) where somebody had contacted Fisk Brothers Refinery about which grease was the same as 106,….the above lubriplate part no. LO 113-176 was given,…….the part number may not be in use anymore,…

Pat

It appears that the last three numbers of this lubriplate product indicate the weight/amount in the container.  Here is the product sheet:

https://www.lubriplate.com/Lub...24_Aero.pdf?ext=.pdf

So 113 is the grease number, the other digits are the packaging?….

Pat

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