Goodbye theater, hello layout.

I think so Dave.  Another forum member asked me to give him tie dimensions and spacing for something he wanted to 3D print.   I used calipers and found inconsistencies in the tie spacing on the outside of the curves especially.  No big deal for you and me.  He was happy with the average spacing I gave him.

They make bending look so easy on their site, removing the 2 end ties on each end, then wrapping it around a jig.

It's not quite that easy in person, the track spring back.  You have to "tune" them to get the exact bend you want, then you need to nail them down to keep it from springing back.  Also, you have to slip the ties around a bit to even them out, they get unevenly spaced when you're bending it.

I’ve seen it suggested to bend it one size tighter. Probably easier to bend it too far and then pull it back.

One size tighter is about right, there's quite a bit of spring-back.  Tom Tee actually showed me how to make templates to do exactly that.  Just a nice arc of plywood that was O72 for making O84 curves, and an O84 for making O96 curves.  That works well for specific sizes, but the 'ol belly bend got used a lot for "custom" curve sizes.

@Mark Boyce posted:

I thought it was just me that the GarGraves curves weren’t exact.  I used 054, and it all worked out.  Your mocked up grade looks good.  My two grades are roughly 4%.  Make sure you allow for a vertical easement at top and bottom of the grades.  With 4% I didn’t allow enough vertical easement, The pilot on one of my steamers hit the track at the bottom of the grade.  I had to rework them making for a longer transition.

Good advice. I shallowed out the bottom approach and the big boy does just fine on it.

@David K. Simpson posted:

Good advice. I shallowed out the bottom approach and the big boy does just fine on it.

Excellent!  I'm glad I brought it up.

Anyrail was worth every penny. Especially when you figure out that you do not have to be absolutely precise. My anyrail project is more of a rough draft that shows me what i can do. Then I build and tweak as I go. Really liking it.

I've listened closely to every single suggestion mentioned here, so thank you all and even if I do not directly reply to all of them, they are all considered and appreciated. The lower double main loop is finished, tested, and runs smooth as silk. So so so glad I ditched the MTH track.

Got back to the laptop and was able to add a passing siding, a reversing loop which is now extended and could be another siding when not in use, a dual crossover, and a dead end line at each end for future expansion. These are all of course subject to change as I use it as a guide and build more visually instead of following the exact plan. It currently looks to me as though I'm set up for future operations instead of just going in circles as before. The inner loop is pretty standard but the outer loop has much more possible activity.

As it turns out, even though I thought my AnyRail layout plan was going to be the "end all" and dead accurate, it didn't work out that way.  I did end up with something very close to the plan, but then the variations creep in and it's not to the plan.  I actually went back a number of times and updated the plan to reflect what I ended up with.  That was useful in that I would then have something close to where I was, and when I moved ahead, I could better visualize what I was ending up with.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

As it turns out, even though I thought my AnyRail layout plan was going to be the "end all" and dead accurate, it didn't work out that way.  I did end up with something very close to the plan, but then the variations creep in and it's not to the plan.  I actually went back a number of times and updated the plan to reflect what I ended up with.  That was useful in that I would then have something close to where I was, and when I moved ahead, I could better visualize what I was ending up with.

That’s pretty much where I’m at. I went in tonight and changed it to what I actually built and then added the new features I want. Then I save the exported pic and can look at it throughout the day and see what I like and don’t. Pretty happy with the overall process

I'm back adding the turntable I just slapped into place, that's a big one!   However, it'll really be handy to park a bunch of engines as well as fill up a space that I'd otherwise have to figure some buildings to fill.

Learning and having fun...

Bent and cut my first pieces of flex tonight. Both easier and harder than expected. The cordless dremel came in quite handy and worked well. For a dedicated loop I prefer the pre formed curves as gunrunner mentioned earlier. They aren’t perfect but I have a ruler with 4” taped off that I use to keep the spacing consistent. With that said, O72 is readily available but O80 is 6 weeks out. The local shop (E&S) has some Ross track in O90 something that would work well in the upper left corner (since it will have 4 curves and doubling up O72 and O80 might get weird) so I may go buy it this weekend which should let me continue north (per layout pic) and around the corner to the east.

So since I’m stuck waiting on track I started wiring. Planning on the inner main and outer main each being on a dedicated output from the TIU. Dropped a feeder in the far south curve, and then another halfway up the west wall. Tied them together below on a terminal board (“borrowed” from a real loco) and then ran that to the TIU in 14awg stranded wire. The Big Boy runs perfect but my 4-4-0 general struggles so I think I’m going to join the outside rails with jumper wires (per gunrunner again in another thread I read). I’m assuming the two main lines should be completely isolated from each other and insulating joints should be used in the crossover and reversing loop. Per my plan, each main will be fed from a separate channel of the TIU with its own brick on each input.

Heading to Dansville New York tomorrow to inspect a locomotive we are having rebuilt so I’ll have some hotel time to ponder all of this.

Got this for Christmas and it has been amazingly useful for moving around easily and soldering things without worrying about dragging a cord around. Heats up quick and uses minimal battery capacity. I have many soldering irons, but this is my new favorite.

That is a snazzy soldering station! I agree tying the two outside rails together and insulating the two loops.  We will look forward to seeing your progress.

I'm sure my building style drives many of you nuts, but I'm a visual person and this is what's working for me. I build a few feet and then look at it for a few days and see what's working and not working for me. Again, anyrail has been a blessing and I can't recommend it enough.

The southwest incline and hole in the wall are complete and wired. Have ran trains up and down it and it is as smooth as I could want it. Couldn't be happier with the progress. The biggest issue is pacing myself but I'm doing good and tackling it in sections. I do not even look at another area until the one i'm working on is "complete". Did a few more feet today and then back to the laptop. My original vision for the northeast corner kept getting blocked by the chimney and to tuck in that corner, go around it, and then loop back in brought it all too far south and would disrupt the doorway to the kitchen. Can't believe I missed it all this time but the answer was to not tuck into the corner and just head straight south. This let me get the 3 wall effect I originally wanted, stay clear of the door, and leave an access cubby in the northeast corner the same as I accidentally ended up with in the southwest. Have 1 passing siding, a crossover, reversing loop, and provisions for a yard. I'm sure it will change again before it's complete but that's half the fun of it. Local hobby shop is loving the business as well.

Anyways, here's the latest...

How about pictures of the real thing?

I’ll have to take some more.

Thanks, it really helps to put things in perspective if you can see the actual work product.

I have this quirky/strange plan where once I put a locomotive on the layout I don’t want it to ever come off so I just fire them up and move them out of the way when needed. Strange but kind of fun.

I have a similar idea, a bunch of them will be parked here.

I’m thinking a turntable is in my future. Yours looks great.

It's a fun accessory, and the Atlas 24" one retails for $300, and I got this one NIB for $213, not bad.  It's a simple TT to install, and it works way better than you'd expect for a cheap piece like this.

Which one is yours and how big is it. I don’t expect to be able to turn the big boy around but hopefully it could handle the DD40.

unless you’re saying yours is the Atlas 24” that you got a great deal on.

Mine is the 24" Atlas, the DD40 is 24" long, so I think it would probably swing it.  As long as the wheelbase is 24" or less, you can actually have an overhang of about an inch plus on the ends.  There's about 1.75" to the motor drive house from the end of the bridge track, so actually, you can swing about a 27" overall length diesel.

Thanks.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Mine is the 24" Atlas, the DD40 is 24" long, so I think it would probably swing it.  As long as the wheelbase is 24" or less, you can actually have an overhang of about an inch plus on the ends.  There's about 1.75" to the motor drive house from the end of the bridge track, so actually, you can swing about a 27" overall length diesel.

Did you get the newer updated one with better rollers and motor or one of the originals?

I have the first generation, but if it gives me trouble, it would be easy to pick this one up and drop the newer one in, it's exactly the same size.  I did take the table off, the rollers seem like they're up to the job.  I lubed everything while I was in there.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

I have the first generation, but if it gives me trouble, it would be easy to pick this one up and drop the newer one in, it's exactly the same size.  I did take the table off, the rollers seem like they're up to the job.  I lubed everything while I was in there.

Every time something new comes out the internet loves to say how bad the old one was. Doubt it’s as bad as people claim. Interested in hearing your review or findings.

Well, I've just run it testing, but so far it's done fine, and I don't have any issue with the motor.  I'll probably find out when I actually get the layout completed and I'm running trains.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Well, I've just run it testing, but so far it's done fine, and I don't have any issue with the motor.  I'll probably find out when I actually get the layout completed and I'm running trains.

What’s the plan for the really short tracks? Or are they not as short as they look in the pic?

I have a couple of 0-6-0T switchers, track speeders, etc., lots of short stuff I can park there.  It was either put track there or ignore those positions, so I figured why not put track there?

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

I have a couple of 0-6-0T switchers, track speeders, etc., lots of short stuff I can park there.  It was either put track there or ignore those positions, so I figured why not put track there?

Sound logic!

Laid my first switch tonight. Now I know I basically committed a mortal sin by not using Ross switches, but I bought 12 O-100 current Gargraves switches for $85.00 and didn’t think I could pass that up.

Have to fly to Louisiana tomorrow to do an end of lease inspection on 4 GP9s so it will sit untouched until the weekend. Couldn’t help myself though and had to install at least one switch tonight.

As I’m finding out more and more, things don’t always line up the way they supposedly do in easyrail so the back to back switches wouldn’t work here as the foreground one (which didn’t get installed) would have been on the start of the slope. So the yard lead will actually now end up up near the northern end of this passing siding. Not the end of the world as the only limitation will be you can’t access the yard if something is parked on the siding. The only other concern is the yard is single ended so you will have to back the train into it. I really have no way around this so hopefully if I keep all the joints smooth backing in will not be a problem. It’s how we do it at work everyday so I’m hoping for the best.

That is a deal worth taking!  Yes it seems things never quite line up the way I thought.

David, Nothing wrong with new Gargraves 0-100 switches. I have a few and they run very smooth.

Steve

For seven bucks apiece, I'd be using Gargraves switches as well!   I have over $4,000 tied up in Ross switches!  Admittedly, I have a couple of 4-way swtiches and a couple double-slip switches, those run up the total a bit.  However, even the basic Ross Regular switch with a switch machine tops $100.

@David K. Simpson posted:

Laid my first switch tonight. Now I know I basically committed a mortal sin by not using Ross switches, but I bought 12 O-100 current Gargraves switches for $85.00 and didn’t think I could pass that up.

Have to fly to Louisiana tomorrow to do an end of lease inspection on 4 GP9s so it will sit untouched until the weekend. Couldn’t help myself though and had to install at least one switch tonight.

As I’m finding out more and more, things don’t always line up the way they supposedly do in easyrail so the back to back switches wouldn’t work here as the foreground one (which didn’t get installed) would have been on the start of the slope. So the yard lead will actually now end up up near the northern end of this passing siding. Not the end of the world as the only limitation will be you can’t access the yard if something is parked on the siding. The only other concern is the yard is single ended so you will have to back the train into it. I really have no way around this so hopefully if I keep all the joints smooth backing in will not be a problem. It’s how we do it at work everyday so I’m hoping for the best.

It takes a brave soul to keep a Big Boy on the layout during construction.

You are making good progress so far David.

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

It takes a brave soul to keep a Big Boy on the layout during construction.

You are making good progress so far David.

Bob, I used my Vision Line Big Boy for a clearance test around my entire mainline and a couple of the secondary loops.  I needed to make sure I left plenty of clearance on curves and the elevated section supports, but no sweat there.  I don't have power wired yet, but I "sky-wired" it for the test.  All went well and the BB is safely back on the shelf until completion.

I have to agree, I don't leave expensive on the layout when I'm working on construction, I'm not that brave.  I do have my cheap battery powered LC+ Camelback sitting on the layout as I work, it is my go-to quickie track check machine.   Before any running, it'll also drag my magnet debris pickup car around to collect any little track cuttings, screws, nails, etc. that have fallen into the tracks.  First time I powered up track, the breaker on the brick promptly tripped, there was a 1/2" piece of cut track wedged into the rails.

@David K. Simpson posted:

As I’m finding out more and more, things don’t always line up the way they supposedly do in easyrail so the back to back switches wouldn’t work here as the foreground one (which didn’t get installed) would have been on the start of the slope............The only other concern is the yard is single ended so you will have to back the train into it. I really have no way around this so hopefully if I keep all the joints smooth backing in will not be a problem.

Being a software guy, I’m a bit confused by the first comment. You said easyrail, but I assume that was an autocorrect error and you meant AnyRail. Anyway, did the program not show where the grade would start? Or did it have the wrong dimensions for the switches? I get that GarGraves sectional tracks don’t seem to be as exacting as perhaps they should be, but something seems to have been way off if you’re having to make that big of a change to the plan.

Re the second comment, if you come out of the yard, you’re going counterclockwise and will end up having to back into the yard, unless you go through the revering loop. Since you only have a single reversing loop, you’ll then be going clockwise with no way to reverse back other than backing through the loop. If you don’t reverse back, you’ll have to pull into the yard with no way to get the engine out unless you have enough space to add an escape crossover to the end of yard tracks. Unfortunately, you’d then still have to back the engine through the reversing loop to turn it. Of course, adding an escape crossover reduces the maximum length of trains somewhat.

I thought about a pass-thru yard, but in my plan, that would have been very difficult, so I'm going to live with backing into my yards as well.  It's not the end of the world, all my command locomotives have reverse.

@DoubleDAZ posted:

Being a software guy, I’m a bit confused by the first comment. You said easyrail, but I assume that was an autocorrect error and you meant AnyRail. Anyway, did the program not show where the grade would start? Or did it have the wrong dimensions for the switches? I get that GarGraves sectional tracks don’t seem to be as exacting as perhaps they should be, but something seems to have been way off if you’re having to make that big of a change to the plan.

Re the second comment, if you come out of the yard, you’re going counterclockwise and will end up having to back into the yard, unless you go through the revering loop. Since you only have a single reversing loop, you’ll then be going clockwise with no way to reverse back other than backing through the loop. If you don’t reverse back, you’ll have to pull into the yard with no way to get the engine out unless you have enough space to add an escape crossover to the end of yard tracks. Unfortunately, you’d then still have to back the engine through the reversing loop to turn it. Of course, adding an escape crossover reduces the maximum length of trains somewhat.

I indeed meant AnyRail. The only real change is I originally wanted two switches back to back. Yes, AnyRail showed the grade starting halfway through the one switch but being inexperienced I thought it would be fine. Looking at it actually in place I didn’t like it so changed the plan accordingly. The “crossover” also isn’t precisely where AnyRail shows because as you mentioned, the curves aren’t as precise in real life. The good thing is, nothing is permanent yet and it’s just a few screws to move things if needed.