Choke cable install on new turnout leading to passenger yard.

Been using choke cables in the yards since the layout was built.  I like their simplicity, easy to install, able to reach 5' at tight and unusual angles and are cost effective.  

When I got them 40 years ago, I believe they were around a couple bucks but present price isn't bad being around $6.50 each.  

https://www.ebay.com/itm/High-...p2057872.m2749.l2649

Besides the choke cable, a solid piece of brass with two 1/16" holes drilled in each end and the linkage that I use.  Not sure if they make these linkages anymore but they would be easy to make with a piece of wire and brass sheet stock. 

A 3/8" hole and a bolted to the fascia. 

I'm partial to linkages being outside the gauge of the track.  A brass screw secures the linkage to the throw bar.  

The hardest part is pulling the outer wire cable into a mounting bracket.   The brass rod is soldered to the ground throw linkage.  I depend on point contact to route the electricity; one could connect a toggle switch to the end of the inner cable wire for more positive routing.  Also, #10 turnouts will have a little more surface contact than smaller turnout points.

To check out the turnout, I turned on the DCC and all the CB's went crazy.  Not sure why but needed to separate the choke cable from the main 12 gauge ground wire running under the layout.  

Another way to route 'juice' to the respective track although I used this contact to 'feed' the LCC signalling system.   The brass rod to this linkage was loose; the linkage wire was pretty nasty (after 40 years) so I just replaced the linkage and cleaned up the brass rod.  

New delivery:

Four NYC passenger cars and one UP dome car by Walthers. 

The NYC cars have, separately applied, decals and metal handrails.

Just about done for passenger cars.  I've gotten a few more to make most train sets 12-18 cars long.

The exception will be the N&W J train as, I don't believe, they ever ran more than 7-10 cars.  MTH is bringing out 3 in December, which I hope to acquire. 

Final leaf mulching done plus a few other daughter stuff done so back to trains.

==================

Air brush painting.

Last year I picked up some nice logging cars that need painting.

Normally, I, completely, dismantle the engine before painting it.  In this case, they are only some logging cars and the previous owner glued the Kadee coupler pockets in so I'm leaving the couplers on and hope the paint don't foul up the knuckles.  Also, some of the trucks are white cast metal so I'm painting them with the wheels sets since the trucks don't have screws to disassemble them.  Some trucks are in parts so I'll CA them together after they are painted.

First step to clean all parts.  A turkey pan, liquid dish washing soap and some vinegar are my choices.   A toothbrush is used to scrub them.  

I'm also painted some 8 wheel tender trucks that are a 'back up' to an engine.  I masked off the treads on the 8 wheel trucks.  No masking on the logging trucks as they won't be picking up electricity plus they are only plastic and I'll probably have to replace them, anyway!    The wheels set would, normally, be removed. 

Everything is usually baked in my toaster over for 2 hours at 200 degrees.  Since plastic parts are involved, this step is eliminated.  Also, I never bake wheel sets for fear of damaging the insulated side. 

My detached shop is where all painting is done; keeps all the nasty fumes out of the house.  If done in the house, a paint booth with exhaust to the outside is mandatory. 

Been using this Binks since the 70's.  I like single action air brushes as I'm not coordinated enough to use dual action ones! An air filter and pressure regulator is needed.

The shop air compressor...

but a small air compressor will do.   A compressor with a tank is nice as the compressor is not running all the time and, I think, the air pressure is more consistent with a tank. 

Heat needed during the winter.

Safety stuff. 

I'm partial to Scalecoat enamel paint.  Have painted hundreds of engines with it.  Being enamel, reducer is used to dilute 30-50%, depending on type of paint: ie silver, etc. 

Usually, I 'shoot' two coats but will see how coverage looks, since these are only logging cars.  Usually need two coats as there always seems to be one spot that I miss.  Corners and edges done first and then an overall spray of the large areas.  Always best to use light coats versus a heavy coat of paint: much easier to add more than remove 'runs'.   Since I can't bake them, I'll let them 'cook' overnight. 

Logging cars painted (cont)

Some dullcoat (Satin clear) used to dull up the finish.

Again, will allow these to air dry for several hours before assembly.   I checked the couplers and they still work after painting the logging cars.  I tried to not paint them but, also, the paint is probably so thin that it doesn't interfere with the knuckle movement. 

Sam, a wonderful tutorial on painting those neat logging cars!!!

Have a happy Thanksgiving!

Thanks, Mark.

========

For those that don't want to pay a 'C' note for the newly released lighted cabeese or they don't have your cabeese that you want, about a year ago I did several installs on marker lights in cabeese including using the new NCE mini decoder to control the lights.  There are about a dozen posts on page 22 and page 23 that can be referenced. 

https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...hern-railway?page=22

New delivery.

UP challenger 4-6-6-4 factory painted greyhound grey by Broadway Limited.

I didn't plan on buying this engine but BLI had 40% off in the 'refurbish' section of their website.  A combination of 40% off plus gray paint scheme and lighted marker/number boards but the biggest factor was the smoking whistle (in addition to the regular steam smoke).  As a 'refurbish', it comes in its original box, didn't see any blemishes and gets full warranty. 

The box is 2' long.

Very well packed.

Funnel for smoke, coupler and extra rubber tires.

Impressed that the marker and number boards are lighted.

Nice lighted cab detail with crew.  Also a deck plate. 

Tender headlight and marker lights all functional.

Here's the hole next to the whistle for the whistle smoke.

Whistle smoke.

Main smoke stacks. 

Nicely detailed.  All cast engine boiler and tender so very heavy.

Running gear detail.

Comparison to my Key UP challenger. Key's cab doors open.

Key on the left.

All hatches work on the Key model.  I'll have to paint the BLI poppet valves and smoke whistle a brass color.

Sand and turret hatches on the Key model.  Both have cab roof hatch that opens. 

Tender hatches functional on the Key.

The tenders are the same length but the Key steam engine is slightly longer.

New delivery.

Picked up some Kato electric motors.  I needed two motors for the other Milwaukee bi-polar  but didn't want to pay the going rate of around 50 bucks for the Mashima large size motor.  I need around a 15MMX30MM motor with high RPM's and most are  expensive.  

Model train stuff had the kato motors for $17.30 so I bought two.

I was surprised that there were no holes drilled in the ends for mounting screws!  I guess I'll use some silicon caulk.

I had two Mashima motors that I got many moons ago for one bi-polar which is in the final assembly stage.

The other bi-polar will get the Kato motors.  I'm figuring these motors are high quality since Kato seems to make very nice engines. 

I've, also, got an MTH bi-polar so, hopefully, I can run all three together on a passenger train.  Probably I'll need all three as the other two custom brass power units only have the two outside set of wheels (out of 4 axles) powered.  I was surprised by this as my two custom brass GN W-1 electrics have all wheels powered and they pull very well. 

Logging cars completed;   

Added needed couplers and trucks after painting the cars.  With all the new trees and bushes put in, recently, the logging track needed some cleaning.

videos:

New logging car test:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZwcUiUjOg2M

Testing new decoder in D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vuhcqG-2RsI

GN R-2 2-8-8-2 testing vintage freight cars leaving Seattle:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otM3MZoEf6g

GN R-2 2-8-8-2 vintage freight cars are Hillyard:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1lIJXiKl7ak

UP 2-tone challenger passenger train leaving Seattle:

Testing new engine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RFCHC6zvFgw

UP challenger passenger train at Tye:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QAteQhAhhb4

UP challenger passenger train at Hillyard:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t3l9bVFJJHQ

Very old 1930's film on the GN.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ur7w7NsvzJ0

Springfield, Ohio train show (Dec 1, Sunday).

At the fairgrounds consisting of two buildings plus a connecting building between them.

Some unusual 3 rail track by Marx; maybe OO gauge!

8' wooden rail.

Known Gary and Dave since the 70's.

Some suitcase layouts.

One large HO layout setup in the connecting building.

Another HO layout on the 'stage'.

Some nice wooden trucks.

Been thinking about putting some rerailers around the layout in non scenic areas.  I believe the guy said these were piko.  Anyway, they look like an easy 'scratchbuild' with some plastic sheeting.   I want something that can be easily glued to existing track.

Picked up a few items.  Gary gave me three GN cars and the fellow that I got about 50 vintage cars last year, was at the meet so I got 3 that were different than what I have.   A couple cheap rerailers that I'll experiment with and one can always use heat shrink tubing.  Gary brought me 6 canon can motors. 

Nice video of UP 4014 in snow, last month.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4McOsLJ1Npk

Sam, Looks like a very nice show in Springfield.  Seeing old friends is perhaps my favorite part of train shows.

That great angle made for a very impressive video of the 4014!!!

New delivery:

GN heavy weight coach by Atlas.  Atlas didn't make a whole set of passenger cars but they have made some coaches.  I thought I'd get one and see how they look.

A nicely detailed car.  Comes with a few extra parts that can be applied to the end of the cars. 

Underneath brake lines, etc and free rolling metal wheels.

Nice rivet detail and has interiors and glass windows.

Plastic but movable diaphragms and handrails.  Plastic couplers.

Comparison to an Oriental Limited coach numbered 950-861 versus the Atlas #965.  About the same length.  Roof detail a little different. 

Windows appear to be about the same. 

A few different details on the OL version.  The Atlas is lighter and cheaper ($47 versus OL $80).  The Atlas is 'ready to go' versus having to paint and add interior to the OL.  The passenger cars are on par with their cabeese but not as nice as the MTH and BLI passenger cars.  

NMRA MCR Div 7 December meeting.

December is our annual potluck food and slide show meeting.

Frank had his usual supply of trains stuff for sale.  I got a nice Walthers GN passenger car for only 15 bucks.

Our Div 7 library of DVD's that can be taken out for viewing (like a library).

Paul's Train around the Christmas tree layout!

Out company store. 

Out monthly contest entries.  A little light this month for the holidays. 

The monthly raffle prizes. 

And the best item: free food!

Our fearless leaders.

Individuals brought pictures to show to the members. 

After the meeting we visited one of the local layouts.

About a 3' high helix.

Triple deck.

One staging yard.

Other staging yard.

Steel box channel used to support each level.  

Looks like another great time, Sam!!!

Mark, Always like seeing other layouts, no matter what scale, as there's always something new that I didn't know about.

==============

Digitrax using PSX circuit breakers (CB).

During operating sessions, while several trains were running, sometimes all the CB's would start flashing on and off shutting down the entire layout until the short was corrected.

It took me awhile but I was, finally, able to recreate the problem.  I put an engine on each power block district that each CB was controlling and then put a quarter in each block until the problem occurred.  

I emailed Larry Meier at DCC specialties and he gave me a few things to try.

First,  I had to make sure OPSW 18 was set to 'C'.

Next he suggested:

One other thought. If you have all PSX breakers set to the default trip current, it is possible that due to use in other power districts, there is not enough current available from the booster to trip the PSX. In your 8 array, you could theoretically draw 4*8 = 32 amperes from the booster without tripping any PSX breaker. You might try setting CV49=2 (trip current = about 2.5 amperes). This should be high enough to power a district, but should increase the ability to trip on a short. Try it first in whichever district is giving you the most problem.

My PSX manual on page 12 told me how to reset CV49=2.

The Digitrax manual on page 102/103 told me how to program CV's. 

These are my PSX CB's:

Per the instructions, programmer jumper was moved to J3-1 & J3-2 

You know you've got the programmer jumper in the right place as the output LED is off and the D6 LED blinks once.  

After entering CV49=2, the D6 blinked again so I knew the update was complete. 

After doing just one CB, I tested the 'quarter' short method and all seems good as only that one CB now trips.  More than one CB can be reset at once so I did the rest of the CB's as a group.  The lower amp setting seems to keep Digitrax and the CB's from 'fighting' each other.   I'll have to wait and see if the lower amperage is a problem with the main yards as that is where a lot of engines can reside.  I can always increase the amperage for those CB's.  I should be good as, although the roundhouses have about 24 tracks, each one has an on/off toggle and they are always in the 'off' position until the engine is needed. 

Accidentally found this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-2eJzdrIJE

No sound, has GN electrics, diesels and NP diesels, steam (big Z-6's, Z-8's), Milwaukee electrics.

The Great Northern Empire Builder at the Colorado Model Railroad Museum

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LYPj1tguzq0&t=16s

Williams loop:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0X5REj_N06Y

Local mall modular layout set up:

A fellow modeler and his buddies set up their modular layout at different locations during the year.  I'm guessing around 25 modules were used.  They just set up the layout and it will be at the mall for 2 weeks during the holiday season.  I hung out with him for a few hours last night:

Still testing passenger trains.

Had to replace the plastic couplers with Kadee couplers on a few cars as the coupler shanks are bending and allowing the cars to uncouple.  Had a few spots where a couple cars would derail.  The bolster has a plastic shaft that goes into the truck hole with a screw to secure it.  Had to enlarge the truck hole to give more lateral and vertical movement.   There's a couple spots on the layout where the roadbed changes from flat ply/homosote to laminated homosote and there is a slight 'bump' which I'm going to try to fix.  Not easy as they are located in difficult locations but I have my 'topside creeper' to gain access to them.

Besides UP, didn't know any articulated steam was operating.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be

The modules look great!  They really did a nice job!

Thats a bummer about the roadbed transition ‘bump’.  It sounds like no fun reworking from the topside creeper, even though they are a great tool for access!

samparfitt posted:

Besides UP, didn't know any articulated steam was operating.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be

 

I sure never knew about this Mallet in the Black Hills!  It’s great!!

Fixing some 40 year old track problems!

For the last 40 years I've been running freight drags and the track has worked well.  In the last few months, running passenger trains has revealed a few weak spots in the 'track laying' department.   Initially, I didn't realize running passenger cars that are about twice the length of freight cars would present problems.  I was aware of the humps but, since no derailments or uncoupling, no need to remove them. 

The last two are two humps along the mainline transitioning from one surface material to another.

The first location was from the main layout room to the laundry room where the 3 track return loop staging yard is located.   There was a hump from the pine to the homosote.   The fix was pretty easy and I got the idea, yesterday, while with Joe and his modular layout at the mall.  There was a hump between two of the modules and lowering the legs fixed the problem.  In my case, the screw to the supporting piece of wood to the right in the picture was removed and the pine side was lowered about an 1/8" fixed this problem.  

The second hump was the transition from the mainline to the St. Paul yard.  I used a level for a straight edge and found about a 1/4" drop from the center of the hump to the sides. 

The yard is on the left (ply/homosote) and the mainline is on the right (vertically glued homosote). There were three 29" pieces of pine supporting the yard and main. 

A 20 lb weight and piece of ply was used to flatten out the hump.  The screws at the bottom of the 29" pine boards were loosened and new holes drilled for a flat surface.  I was surprised that about a 1/2" drop was needed to get everything level. 

Initially, I thought I was going to have to remove the track (which is all hand laid), smooth out the area and then relay the track: not an undertaking I was willing to do, especially with a crossover right at that location.  

I ran a 16 car passenger train through those two areas and all seems fine, now

Couldn't have done it without my topside creeper!

That’s super!  I though you were going to have to pull up track also!!

Interchange turnouts interfaced to the monitor's dispatcher's panel (LCC):

The four turnouts in the interchange yard needed to be connected to the PC's dispatcher's panel. 

Four turnouts at the interchange. 

The turnouts are controlled on the main panel by four multi-contact toggles (red handles). 

Wires run to the main panel's toggles.  Ground (gray) wires run to center contacts and colored (black, red, green, yellow) wires to the outside contacts.   Only one side of the contacts are needed but ran two sets of wires as, once the software side is set up, it's easier to just swap the appropriate wire than change the software (at least it is for me!).

Ran the wires to terminal strips and then to a circuit board (really just a fancy toggle switches/terminal strip board).  A gray 'ribbon' wire is connected to the circuit board.....

and the other end of the ribbon wire is connected to a signal LCC circuit board.   With all the 'hardware' connected, next step is to do the 'software' side.

Very nice PRR layout.

Impressive catenary and telephone pole lines.  Not sure how he gets to derailments.  I've got catenary but it's gone into disrepair over the last few decades.  Fortunately, with DCC, don't need it but difficult to re-rail cars when the trucks come off the track.  Also, I've got some elastic telephone pole wire but want to install it where 'wandering' hands aren't likely to snag it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJGqOICOu7Y

View from cab:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GVJ7xfkdx6M

GNRW Ops session Dec 21 pictures:

Had some problems, see next post.

DCC problems.

Just before the ops session, I connected a volt/amp meter to get data on how much current was being drawn.  The old saying of don't change things just before you're going to use them holds true, again!   Not sure why but the meter, that was put in line with the two power wires, hosed Digitrax.  Engines were sounding unusual, some wouldn't run smoothly, etc.  Previously, I had set the CB's to 2.5 amps to prevent the CB's and Digitrax from 'fighting each other' when a short occurred.  The meter said I was exceeding 2.5 amps but, after testing the next day, I found Digitrax worked fine when the meter was removed from the system.   The CB's have been changed to 3.8 amps (default is 5 amps) to offer more 'cushion' when several trains are running at once.    

I had 8 engines powered up on the mainline and all works well at 3.8 amps and no meter.  

Before removing the meter, I took some readings of different equipemnt:

The CV settings for the CB's:  CV49 was set to 03 to give me 3.8 amps.

Besides the meter problems, I had a some cars shorting at one turnout.  Turned out the solder joint for the points weakened and allowed part of the point rail to get too close to the stock rail and the inside of wheels were touching it. 

More testing with full trains on the layout.

Ran 4 passenger trains with no problems. 

Had some electrical conductivity problems in the new passenger yard.  Some turnout points weren't making contact with the stock rails.  Used a dental pic to lift up those small brass contacts under the points so they would contact the stock rails. 

My power checker verified all was good again!

New delivery.  

Have seen some new foliage that looks more like leaves than the regular ground foam stuff that we use so I bought each color that they make.

Produced by Noch.  I purchased these from scenicexpress.  

Instead of foam, they are 'kind of' miniature leaves. 

Broke out some of my tumbleweed trees.

Got 4 tree trunks.  I love how scale the 'bark' is on tumbleweeds. 

Tools of the trade.  Some black fiber filler and the plastic paint trays work nice to contain/recycle the 'tree' leaves. Some cheap hair spray from walbox. 

Fiber applied to branches. 

Lots of hair spray, sprinkle on the dark from below and the other next darker color from the top.  Two main colors used with a 'sprinkle' of the remaining two colors. 

Leaves!

Some of my original trees using foam. 

New trees 'planted' on the layout. 

The smallest was 50 feet (7 inches) high.

Tallest about 180 feet (about 11 inches) high.

MERRY CHRISTMAS:

    have a very Merry Christmas Sam      layout is looking great   nice trees !   have a good day  

Thanks, Brian,

=========

More PM and testing.

Had some 'out of towners' visit and one train had some derailments.

A Zephyr car derailed 3 times.  Wheel gauges good and free rolling.  Figured not enough vertical movement so removed truck and filed bolster hole to remove excess paint and any burrs. 

Also, had one spot where I've had trouble with passenger cars derailing.  Found vertical and horizontal problems, again, where two different sub roadbeds jointed.  After fixing the area, both car and track seem to be better with manual test.

The lead trucks on this D&RGW L-131 also derailed a couple times.  Took truck apart and clean off some crud plus excess paint on axle and truck.  Any sliding of wheels, versus rolling, will cause a derailment.   Previously, I also put a new attaching screw with a longer 'shoulder' for more vertical movement. 

Took engine and cars full length of mainline with no derailments       Also will test going in the opposite direction.

Also, had a derailment at one turnout at St. Paul's yard: found the linkage was loose and the points were not making full contact with the stock rails. 

Had 'one time' fighting of CB's and Digitrax so I reduced the amps in each CB from 3.8 to 2.5 amps.  This should be enough to handle any trains in one particular block except for, maybe, the yards.

Didn't know I could adjust the LED brightness on the wow 1517 decoders.  Will have to see how it is done. 

More testing and PM.

Lead truck on D&RGW L-131 derailed but due to rail end misalignment; easy fix.

Had to dismantle lead truck 3 times to get it to roll freely and not slide along the rail.  Inside plastic insulation had some burrs plus all paint needed to be removed from all contact surfaces. 

B&O EM-1 2-8-8-4 and 12 IHC passenger cars from the 70's ran with no problems.  When 'dialing' the engine address, no response.  After several minutes, tried address 03.  First time I've had an engine resort to it's base address. 

Passenger cars successful over realigned track.

Tried a telephoto picture. 

EM-1 passing Seattle's freight yard.

EM-1 entering passenger yard.

One of my Miller signs went 'south' on me.

One contact burned out.  Hopefully Miller will replace just the sign.  Put another sign in the female side and all works well.  Looks like signs are interchangeable with base circuit boards. 

Pretty detailed BLI Zephyr passenger cars.  I believe this is the soil pipe leading to the bathrooms!  I see why they had signs saying 'do no flush while in station'!

More passenger train testing.

MTH N&W J 4-8-4 and 6 MTH passenger cars.

Ran the entire 450' of mainline with no problems.  I think I've got most of the bugs out of the system!

Tried taking pictures of the moving train with the camera moving with the train.

Got candy cane and cinnamon smoke fluid.  

Converting 9 PRR passenger cars from incandescent to LED lighting.  These cars along with double heading is throwing the CB's so updates are needed to reduce total amp usage.  The other 5 passenger cars are by MTH and already have LED lighting.

The cars are already lighted so the conversion is a lot easier being one only has to replace the incandescent with the LED's.

Initial testing of 12" of LED strip with resistor. 

The LED strip has an adhesive backing so it's easy securing the strip to the roof of the car. 

5 meters of LED strips.  This stuff is pretty cheap (under 15 bucks).

Initially, I used a 6K resistor but the brightness was too low so I used a 1K resistor.  The 6K are good for the single micro 0402 LED's that I use for headlights, marker lights, cab and running board lights. 

Attached each truck wire to it's respective end of the LED strip to keep from having wires run the entire length of the car. 

Initial testing begun.

Ran 1/2 the layout with the two Bachmann GG-1's with no problems.

The steam engine/GG-1 combo is the main concern for exceeding the CB limits.  Next, I'll need to run the GG-1 double head and then the steam/GG-1 for the entire length of the mainline plus returning to insure amps as well as the cars are working correctly.  Presently, I've got all CB's set to 2.5 amps.  This should be good on the single portions of the layout.  However, the districts with passing sidings may need the CB's bumped up to 3.8 amps since two trains can occupy that district, at once.  Running all passenger trains has presented problems that the freight drags did not present: ie, derailments due to longer cars and CB amps exceeded due to up to 18 passenger cars on one train.  I may need to have a combination of freight and passenger trains versus an all passenger session.  

I’m glad you are getting the bugs worked out!  The passenger trains sure look great on your wonderful layout!!!