Great Northern railway

Testing the relocated vintage metal Athearn, Varney and wood Silver Streak, Ambroid freight cars.

Front end power is a GN R-2 2-8-8-2 by Tenshodo fully lighted with TCS 1517 decoder.  Surprised this engine is never listed with the top largest engines produced as it's said that this engine's pulling power exceeded any other articulated engine made.  As for miniature size, mine has no problem pulling 45 freight cars up a grade!

Videos after Youtube is done uploading them.

Waverly.

Watering hole.  Wilmar.

Marias Pass.

Marias Pass.

Train entering one of the three incoming tracks at Seattle's freight yard. 

Engine dropped off the cars and using the escape turnouts to access roundhouse area. 

Track leading to turntable. 

Walther's turntable is excellent with its indexing system and accuracy. 

GN 0-8-0 switcher on drill track and getting cars from the 'tail' end.

Switcher pulling cars from incoming track...

...and into the yard tracks.

Intermountain wheel sets replace original wheel sets on the vintage cars.

I try to keep the original sprung trucks. 

Some times the intermountain wheels touch the outside metal truck frame and short out.  I was replacing them with accurail truck frames but may have found a solution to the short:  I noticed the side truck frame's bottom angles in, slightly, which is where the insulated wheel side touches and causes the short.  Some thick CA was applied to where the bolster contacts the side frame while holding the side frame vertical while the glue dries (some 'kicker' speeds up drying time).  After the repair, the truck is put on the track and pushed side ways to see if any shorts occur. 

This is the car that needed new wheel sets.  Remarkable how freely some of the cars roll.  This one, after just touching it, rolled a couple feet. 

What I consider some of the unusual cars in the vintage set:  Different roads and their slogans along with private company cars. 

A different version of the 'potato' car.

A little blurry trying to take pictures while the train is moving!

Videos of GN R-2 and freight car testing:

If I remember correctly, I painted this engine back in the 80's plus re-gear and can motor.  The TCS 1517 decoder and lights were added in the last 2 years.  Prior, it had the PFM sound system.

At Hillyard:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BUjMV4co9Vg

At Chumstick Canyon trestle:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3X8e1KUrix0

At Skykomish:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=usOchY4qJN4

Sam, Thank You for all the great photographs and videos!!  Superb!!  The variety of cars is outstanding!  Freewheeling trucks and a dandy engine really pulls a long train!

Thanks, Mark.

=======

GN engine P-2 4-8-2 2507 being relocated to another city in 2010: at around time 2:45 minutes in the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jPb3yzLYit4

More testing and fixing derailing cars.

Took a different string of vintage cars on the 'road' to test.  Used two of three diesels that I have as they run much faster than my steam so I can check 'stuff' faster!  Also, it's something different while testing.   These are Walther's PA's A-B-B-A: all powered so they can pull just about anything.   The four of them weigh in at 107 ounces (6.7 pounds)!

This vintage car was shorting, occasionally.  Found out the wheels touch the all metal center sill plus the metal ribs.

Had to isolate the metal bolster support from the frame...

plus remove a rib on the insulated side of the truck.  A Dremel cut off disk makes 'quick work' of this.

After the first run on the mainline (east plus west),  the SF E-1's (both powered by BLI) were used to, again, test the cars. 

There were 15 cars that were derailing so they were fixed (hopefully) and ran with a PRR GG-1 by Bachmann to test them.

One of the intermountain wheel sets was out of gauge (first one that I've ever had out of gauge).

Wheel puller needed to fix it: can't just twist the wheel on the axle (at least I couldn't).

Normally, the Athearn plastic hoppers are very reliable with original stock trucks but his one needed some mods.  New intermountain wheels.

Had one flat car derail once in awhile.  Added extra weight but still nada.  Found one of the accurrail plastic trucks had a small burr at the bottom of the side truck frame and it would grab on turnouts. 

Unusual for Athearn plastic hoppers to not have correct coupler height.  A Kadee washer fixed that: Had to cut one side of washer to get it to fit over the bolster tube.   Can tell I've had this car for awhile with the steel rusting!

Just got a box of these in and down to 20 already.  Must of gone through 10 boxes of these, at least!

One complete test of the defective cars.  Will do one more run, east and west.  Figure if they can't run on a train of only 15 cars, they're not going to 'do well' on a normal 30-45 car train!

Sam. all the cars are excellent, and they make up wonderful trains running in the videos!

Thanks, Mark.  I keep trying.

==========

More testing and videos.

Was getting a short when the train was leaving the upper staging yard which is a 3 track loop.  The loop is controlled by a 'reverser' which automatically changes 'polarity' when the train goes in the opposite direction.  Took about 15 minutes to figure out the problem.  Initially, figured one of the cars must be shorting but, after checking them, they were good.  Found out that an engine on another loop of track was bridging the two gaps (picture) needed for the 'reverser'.  The 'reverser' instructions say to stagger the gaps a few inches so I made them pretty big but long engines can bridge it.  Once the errant engine was moved back, all was good.  Sometimes, when stopping an engine, I accidentally leave 1 MPH on the throttle and the engine, slowly, creeps forward.  I've done this with the yard switcher while it sits on the drill track and shorts out when it reaches the closed turnout.  I spend a few minutes looking for the short before noticing the switcher is on the turnout! Fortunately, I used a black marker to mark where the gaps are so I noticed it. 

One other car needed adjustment.  The bolster screw needed loosening to give the truck more vertical/horizontal movement.   A while back I remember reading where one truck should have the bolster screw tight so the car doesn't rock where the other truck can 'float' but that has never worked for me. 

A few videos:

SF Alco PA's testing 2nd set of vintage freight cars: At Hillyard:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JA9rmljxRy0

SF E-1's testing same vintage cars: While testing, I'll put a piece of tape on derailed cars to know if I've fixed them or they come off a 2nd time. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n7Xn5YpEnMA

SF Alco PA's testing 3rd set of mixed vintage and 70's cars: Turned off the sound (nice just to have quiet once in awhile!) at Tye:

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I2udt85s_Fc

PRR GG-1 testing 15 defective cars with updates: new trucks, wheels, etc: at Skykomish:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fC01c7gKIk0

More car testing and some scenery updates.

Tested the 3rd string of vintage cars with the GN N-3 2-8-8-0.  Talk about a slow freight drag: with 48:1 gear ratio, I had the throttle at 99 but the engine was, probably, moving about 30 scale MPH but all worked well.  Probably at that speed, don't have to worry about derailments!

I cheated and brought the train directly into the freight yard instead of the incoming tracks. 

Also, took a string of 70's/80's pulled by the Alco PA's, mostly Athearn, plastic freight cars on the 'road' to test.  Athearn made a lot of reliable cars 'back then'.   About half have the intermountain wheel sets.  The others, mostly the hoppers, still have their original wheel sets. 

Had one car derailing along the upper center staging loop yard track.  From low horizontal view, could see the near side rail was slightly below the far side rail: Some gray plastic shims fixed it for that one car.  This area, I went cheap and didn't use any wooden ties for the staging area.  Wood is pine so easy to spike.

Finished installing the last of the tunnel portals.  

The upper track (center in picture) got a new tunnel portal and retaining wall.  Really not easy to see from the isle but I installed a portal in case a video is made from the train so it looks 'pretty'.

Still need to add some 'bushes' to cover up the holes.

After installing the new track going to the lower passenger staging yard, the 'scenery' needs to be re-added.

The upper portal was installed along with a retaining wall.  Again, some bushes will need to be added. 

GE clear silicon caulk works great on these portals, especially, the retaining walls as no support is needed to hold them in place as the caulk is 'self supporting'. 

This is the back of the large 2'X8' section of scenery that was removed to install the lead staging track.  With a new tunnel portal for the staging track, I need to mod the section by removing some supporting wood and scenery.  First, needed to glue in new wood supports to replace the part that will be cut to make room for the track. 

Some of the mountains and trees painted on the wall looked like 3 dimensional scenery until you posted the close up angles!  Very well done!

Thanks, Mark.  Once in awhile I get things right!

===============

Testing cars videos:

SF Alco PA's pulling 70's/80's Athearn freight cars(engine sound turned off).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5NxfbfPQfWA

GN N-3 2-8-8-0 pulling 3rd string of vintage metal Athearn, Varney and wood Silver Streak, Ambroid freight cars.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bwQUFdmX5iY

New delivery:

Found a 1950 Chevy pickup with lights.  This one is made by Busch.  I'm guessing it was made awhile ago as I didn't find many for sale.  They make them without lights so have to make sure it says with lights.  I've got some 1955 trucks with lights by Woodland but wanted something earlier.

I figured it was LED so I connected the truck to my woodland 'light hub' but the truck wouldn't light.  Was going to send it back but, since it was only 10 bucks, figure I'd try to fix it.

Disassembly is easy.  Front bumper slides forward releasing the black frame.

The frame can then slide back releasing the black pin from the upper green cab.

Found out it has an incandescent bulb so the 'light hub' was barely lighting the bulb.  The bulb fits in a slot and routes the light to each headlight and rear tail lights (long black tubes). 

Reassembled it, now wiser so  I connected it, directly, to an old DC power pack. 

Put it near eye level along the mainline next to a freight shed so it would be noticeable.  

The woodland vehicles. 

More train running and testing.

Took a GN S-2 4-8-4 and passenger cars on the 'road'.

Main throat to Seattle.

Also, took the Erie triplex 2-8-8-8 with vintage freight cars on the mainline.  Enjoy running this engine with smoke. 

At Skykomish.

At Tye.

Waverly.

Tumwater Canyon trestle.

Signalling system updates and more testing.

Joe came over and we updated the main signal tower incoming signals leading to Seattle so they would indicate when tracks were occupied.

Main panel track diagram.

Needed to include turnouts and block occupancy for the signals.

Freight track occupied so incoming signal (SM 01A) now shows stop.

Double crossover thrown: passenger track occupied shows SM 01A signal red, etc.

Next is to physically wire the turnouts for the upper staging yard to the 'jack wabit' with appropriate software to be able to throw turnouts from the track diagram.

'Jack Wabit' installed.  Need loconet cable from Digitrax to circuit board and then wires to switch machines/Signal LCC, then software. 

Some more train testing.

GN Q-1 2-10-2 with vintage freight car drag leaving Seattle.

Whitefish.

Waverly.

Bypassing St. Paul and going to staging yard loops.

Tumwater Canyon trestle.

Hillyard.

Sam, great job on the trucks! I love the lights!

I also love your signal system, but have to admit its way over my head!

Mike, Since Sam runs to Seattle, maybe he can run a branch line around the sound to your neck of the woods!! 

Mark Boyce posted:

Mike, Since Sam runs to Seattle, maybe he can run a branch line around the sound to your neck of the woods!! 

Mark, I think after having the same layout after 40 years its a little to late! LOL

mike g. posted:

Mark Boyce posted:

Mike, Since Sam runs to Seattle, maybe he can run a branch line around the sound to your neck of the woods!! 

Mark, I think after having the same layout after 40 years its a little to late! LOL

Hmmm...I guess you are right!!  

It's already in: that's what the interchange/return loops are for

Sam I love how you think ahead!

STUFF:

Cabeese lighted, Jack Wabbit started and local kids run trains.

Put functioning marker lights on some more cabeese.

Marker lights by Utah Pacific.  

Red LED's to light marker lights.

Screws for wheel contacts.

Wire used for wheel contacts.

Kapton tape to secure wires.

First was the Roundhouse NP caboose.  Removed truck screws and drilled two holes through existing metal plate holes to route wires to trucks.  

The roof was lightly glued on but a green plastic, non marring, cell phone tool used to remove roof.  

Divider used to get a consistent distance for locating marker light holes. 

Markers installed, two red LED's installed (comes with bridge rectifier, etc to get voltage to 3 volts) and taped to caboose floor. 

Canopy glue used to secure led's to marker lights.  Holes for marker lights made tight so marker lights fit firmly into holes. 

Plastic axle wheels replaced with intermountain wheels,  wire wrapped around axle and secured to truck with #80 screws.  I find this procedure more reliable, for me, than contacts against the side of the wheel.  U bend put in wire so wire doesn't bind the axle wheel.  Wire from LED's soldered to wire via hole in the caboose floor. 

Doesn't take long.  Canopy glue used to, lightly, tack roof to body, in case roof needs to be remove in the future. 

Jack Wabbit circuit board to control turnouts. 

Phase one: tools of the trade.  Wire sheath stripper, connectors, connector tool to secure wires to connector and electric checker to insure both ends are working properly.

Loconet cable (white) connected to jack wabbit and....

....command station.

Installed signal that will delineate how many tracks are occupied in the upper staging yard.  

Neighborhood kids stopped by. 

Got an engine out with smoke as they like that kind of stuff (me too!).

Great work Sam! and its nice that you invite the local kids over to run trains! Its just me in our neighborhood!

Thanks, Mike.

===============

Cabeese marker lights.

Erie done.  The bottom frame was removable on this caboose.

SF caboose by Walthers.  This one has interior detail.  Took a few minutes figuring how it came apart: again, used the green plastic tool to remove the roof.  The roof has tabs so no glue is needed for reassembly.

Besides the marker lights, I added a white LED for the interior.

Cabeese lights installation (cont):

SF caboose (continued from previous post).

The end sills are last to be connected after the roof is re-attached.

N&W caboose by Bachmann.  End railings/ladder has pins so they are pushed out before removing base.

Just some pins on bottom of shell holds it to the base frame and pins in the railings to secure them to the base. 

LED wiring secured with tape and canopy glue for the LED's.

I find a small hook on the lead wires attaching to the truck contacts easiest to hold while soldering. 

One more done.

SP caboose by Walthers.  Has an interior.  Roof has tabs that snap into sides of car. 

Base interior detail is removable so I painted it with some 'rattle can' paint.

Bottom detail.

Finished up 5 cabeese.  Added crew to the back end.   Used clear silicon caulk to hold them in place.

That completes the bulk of the cabeese.  These are ones done, previously.  A cabeese for each of the different railroad's steam engines that I consider iconic. 

I had trouble finding out how to take apart this Spring Mills Depot cabeese so no lights.  I found this manufacturer having the most detailed cabeese.

These two have 'light only' decoders in them.

The last two that need marker lights. 

Added some crew to a few of the GN cabeese. 

All but one or two of the GN have lights and crew. 

Seattle's yard.

St. Paul's yard.

Here's the 'guts' of the LED's: I'm guessing a bridge rectifier, a capacitor in parallel and a resistor in series.

The lights and crew look great!

Thanks, Mark.  I try.

========

Remote control of turnouts.

This is the first time to set up remote control of turnouts instead of using my main control panel for all mainline turnouts.

Presently, a toggle on the main control panel throws a turnout via the old double coil switch machines.

I'm using TCS 'Jack Wabbit'(JW) to control the switch machines.  A loconet cable was connected from the Digitrax command module to the JW so they can communicate with each other. 

The JW defaults to controlling tortoise machines so I had to change it to handle 'one time' current via the programming jack that is moved to each of the switch machines (SW A,B,C,D).  Each has to be done, individually.  The LED D1 blinks when the command is entered via the digitrax throttle.   CV79 had to be changed to 1.

Output for the switch machines are 1-12.  I set up a test switch machine on 1-3, 2 being the hot wire and 1,3 being the ends of each of the coils on the switch machine.   Each of these circuit boards can handle 4 turnouts.

Test switch machine.

Hit SWCH button to pull up which switch machine you want (in this case 1).  

Hitting OPTN (T) or CLOC (C) gives closed or thrown on the switch machine.  All worked great but the throw seemed very weak.  Hit EXIT to get out of the SWCH option.

Presently, I use a 'capacitor discharge' (CD) circuit board to generate lots of 'juice' to throw the switch machines.  Hopefully, I can incorporate this into the JW.  The CD is by talkingelectronics.com so I hope the two are compatible.   At least I got the switch machine to work: miracles happen!

Once the layout turnouts are operating via the Digitrax remote, it'll be incorporated into the main schematic via decoderpro so just a click on the turnout will throw the switch machine. 

Jack Wabbit (JW) update, upper loop storage track signal, more testing and repaired a building.

I 'smoked' the JW (didn't smoke but the results are the same).  I read the instructions and it said to, also, control via push buttons, connect them to the circuit board.  I wasn't thinking and, wanting to test a switch machine on the layout, connected the JW's output to a momentary switch on the main control panel and hosed up the CB.  The main control panel also has the high capacitor discharge CB going to the panel switches and the instructions say any input power going to any outputs except the designated 2 input screws will damage the CB.  I tried another switch output on the JW but it only works 'one way'.  The JW board seems like it needs more than the one capacitor on the CB to work  properly.  I'll have to email the company on repair of board and adding more 'juice'.

Joe came over and we got the signal that indicates if none, one, two or all of the storage tracks are occupied. 

Tested the PRR centipedes (BLI) and passenger cars (mixture of Balboa and Kato cars).

Found one of the Kato cars coming off due to diaphragms hitting each other.  Put in some long shank couplers: they are offset but were the only ones I had.   The couplers are to be used on the front of steam engines as the coupler pocket on most of my steam engines seem to be higher than kadee standard height.   If the cow catcher was at a scale height, it would, probably, short out by touching the track. 

Finally; fixed up a damaged building that's been sitting on a shelf for about 25 years.  Lots of parts were broken off plus a 'ton' of dust had to be removed from all the parts.   This is an all wood kit by Dyna-model products. 

Roof looked like a flying bird's wing, it was so warped.  Put alcohol on inside to soften up the roofing material and clamped the roof until it dried.  Then used thick CA to repair roof. 

Edges were fixed, again, with thick CA and sticks to align edge while glue dried. 

All the horses, railings, doors, inside upper floor and 'lean to' were fixed.  Hard to find a spot for the building as no room in the logging railroad (most appropriate) but found a spot, after 'cutting' down some trees along the GNRW mainline. 

Things have changed since 1991!

Model Railroad magazine, December, 1991.

234 pages.  Articles on Indian Head model railroad club in Milwaukee (google says dismantled in 2010) and Tenshodo (also dismantled!).  A $5,000 shopping spree contest by MR.  

Two 'fold out' color sections.

More testing.

Was getting a momentary short with no derailments in the upper staging yard. Initially, thought it was the engine. Found out one of the jumper wires was protruding just above the rail head .....

and only one car would cause the short.  An all wood car but metal trucks with intermountain wheel sets: Pushed the wire down and all was good, strange!

Initially, I was looking around the track where the engine was stopping.  Then, I disconnected freight cars until the short went away.

I changed the circuit breaker default short delay from 3 ms to 4 ms but that didn't help.  I could have raised it more but, figure, it's best to have a very low delay to prevent decoder damage. 

The delay for the CB is CV65 and divide by 8 to get real ms delay time, in this case 4 ms.  Can go up to 256.

The NH car needed a couple kadee washers to get coupler height up to 'snuff'. 

Figure I'd take a bunch of pictures at different/new angles: with luck, some should come out nice!  Pictures show me where errors are that I don't see, normally.

Got something different out for motive power.  SF 2-10-4 by PFM/United.  Painted, lighted with TCS 1517 decoder with keep alive.

Seattle.

Tye: Fine Scale station, plastic water tower (probably Revell). 

Marias Pass.

Watering hole.  Functioning water tower from BLI.

Hillyard.

Havre.

Trestle built in the late 50's, early 60's.

Fine scale building.

Whitefish.

Glasgow.

A very old (50's) plastic coal dock.  Had very ugly colors before painting it.  

Two plastic buildings.  Don't remember the manufacturer.  

Campbell's (front) and fine scale (back).

West of Wilmar.

Wilmar.  Another BLI water tower. 

Need to pose the fireman for the picture!

Waverly.

Left track goes to upper staging loops.  Right track to St. Paul, Minn.

Heading West:

I added station names.

Thank you for the excellent tour!!

Mark, I'll send you a 'bill'!  Youtube has been taking a day, or so, to upload my videos.

=====================

A couple more 'runs':

N&W Class A 2-6-6-4 (PFM/United with TCS 1517 decoder w/lights).

Burlington O-5B 4-8-4 (Oriental Limited, TCS 1517 decoder).

Always been 'partial' to solid cow catchers.

Mark, I'll send you a 'bill'!  Youtube has been taking a day, or so, to upload my videos.

=====================

NMRA MCR Div 7 monthly meeting.

The usual good crowd of 50-60 railroaders. 

A few awards given.

Good news/bad news.

Good news: my railroad was one of the two layouts open for visiting after the meeting.

Bad news: 1) I had to leave the meeting early to 'turn on the lights' for visitors so I missed part of the excellent presentation on 'delving into details' by Sam Swanson and 2) missed being able to see Ric Case's nice narrow gauge 'broad top' railroad.

Main theme of my railroad (besides modeling the Great Northern Railway): when building the railroad, I wanted to model mainline running with big time steam and 'scale like' trains of 25-45 cars on single track mainline with passing sidings.  For visitors, I kept it simple and staged trains with a GN R-2 2-8-8-2 and a GN N-3 2-8-8-0 pulling the vintage metal Athearn/Varney and wood Silver Streak/Ambroid freight cars.

I had a few engineers running trains so I could stand around and greet people: someone's got to have the easy jobs!

I have posted enough pictures of the railroad so I took pictures of the visiting railroaders, instead.  Had a good crowd: for awhile it was hard for me to move around to talk to people.

Can you spot 'waldo?: in this case Don Leedy!

I think everyone had a good time: I think they did since, out of two 'tins' of cookies, there was one cookie left at the end of the day!  Always fun sharing our hobby with others.  

Sam, sure looks like you had a good night! I wish there were people that lived near me that were into trains, but right now its just me in my area! You sure are a great host and have such a wonderful layout to share with others!

Mike is so right, Sam!  Looks like a great time.  Mike, weather permitting this Saturday, I’m going to make the 2-hour each way trek to join other Ohioans to see Paul 2’s layouts.  A 2 for 1 trip!  

Thanks  Mike and Mark.  For me, half the fun of the hobby is the camaraderie.

===========

PM of three engines.

Getting smarter at this, finally!

GN N-3 2-8-8-0 by Tenshodo.  Yesterday, after the railroaders left, this engine started to short out.  First I swapped out tenders and everything worked so I narrowed my 'search down'.

Took the bottom frame off and tested the engine and no short.

Noticed I didn't quite insulate one wire and it must have been touching the frame. 

Started to use Kapton tape for insulation.

Might as well oil moving parts while being serviced: axles and side rods.

Not much side play between drivers and frame: about a 1/16".

Painted this engine many moons ago. Engine made in 1973.  Tenshodo engines prior to about 1974 were good runners but 'noisey' so regeared 48:1 and can motor installed.   TCS 1517 decoder w/KA and lots of LED's.

Nicely detailed engine.

Weighs in at a hefty 43.4 ounces.

2nd engine was the PRR T-1 4-4-4-4 by Alco Models.  This engine would bind, once in awhile, when 'starting up'.

The back drivers were binding and thought, initially, maybe some dirt in the gear box but nada. 

Noticed that the painted brass screw holding the brake shoe to the frame had some paint worn off and, after testing, the side rod would hit the screw.

Sliced off about 1/64" off the back of the plastic shoe and reattached it to the frame.

Appears 'all is good' now.

The previous owner painted this engine but I added the TCS decoder and LED's.

3rd engine is the PRR Q-2 4-4-6-4 by Westside.  The engine started to stop after every several seconds so the decoder was replaced.

This, along with the other two, will need to be tested on the 'road'. 

Sam, you just perform magic on those cars~! I bet you could make a bundle fixing them for other folks! Wonderful work~!

Thanks Mike.  At my age, money doesn't mean much to me.  I'd rather make things and run trains and fly my planes than make money.  Can't play with money: it just sits there!

==============

Took the 3 engines 'on the road' and didn't fair well.

PRR T-1 4-4-4-4: Was shorting before, even, leaving the yard on a couple turnouts.  Thought for sure the drivers were touching the opposite points but wasn't the case.  Turns out the support for the gear valves was soldered too close to the insulated side driver and would, occasionally, short :not  sure why only over turnouts.  Re-soldered the support arm and all's good. 

This is how the spacing should be.

After that fix, it ran well (versus good!).

The PRR Q-2 4-4-6-4 did not fair well (decoder wise).  Was running fine but started to, again, short after every 20' or so of running. 

While watching the engine, closely, I noticed one screw (near side) was coming out and about rail head high.  Took 40 years for that screw to do that!  An easy fix. 

Also, noticed the unusual track frame for the Q-2 8 wheel trucks as they appear to be two individual trucks.

After 2-3 stops, I took the engine off the track and could feel the tender was warm.

One more decoder 'smoked'.  Will send to TCS for repair.  All tested OK on the programming track: will be putting a new can motor in this engine (guessing that's the problem).  

And, the 3rd engine, GN N-3 2-8-8-0 also had problems.  The short that I thought I fixed, came back.  Whenever I connected the tender to the engine's draw bar it would trip the circuit breaker.  I noticed the draw bar screw was loose so I tightened it...

While tightening the draw bar screw, I noticed an elliptical shaped brass nut on the other side of the draw bar screw was turning and contacting the engine frame.  Even though no wires are connected to the draw bar for a decoder, the draw bar needs to be isolated between the engine and tender. Moved the brass nut away from the frame and the short went away. 

Out of the 3 engines, 2 were easily fixed, the 3rd needs more work.  

Videos of the engine testing:

PRR T-1 at Skykomish:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bZE0A5dmMiE

At Tye:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z5Rs8nwEt-k

PRR Q-2 at Seattle:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZjuvQYOKyWs

GN N-3 Skykomish:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9ePpOIsMtg

Sam, I am glad you had 2 out of 3 being an easy fix! I am sorry that you had the problems, but I know you can always figure it out! 
Wonderful videos Sam! But then again its hard now to be wonderful with such an amazing layout like yours! Thanks you for sharing and I subscribed to your You tube channel!

Mike, thanks for the kind words.  I try.

==========

This video guy makes nice trees.  Only problem is buying tumbleweed online as, for some reason, they charge a fortune for it!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K0wps1_K--M