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Do it, the hardest part is making that first cut.  Out of the dozen or so steamers I have I can't think of 1 that hasn't seen the Dremel.  Masking tape around the area will help some, just don't be heavy-handed.  Files can finish the spot nicely.

My most trying "operation" was removing fluting from n OK Engines passenger car body to make a Seaboard Air Line Sun-Lounge car, something I would not do again.  Here's some photos of my efforts and sitting next to the GGD Sun-Lounge that was done a while back:

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Here's 2 Williams/Samhongsa brass USRA 2-8-2 I modified to represent 2 different classes Seaboard used:

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They started out the same, but 411 in the foreground was heavily modified to a SAL Class Q3 whereas 492 in the background was left mainly intact as SAL Class Q1

Steady hand and good lighting will get you going.

I Dremeled off the Bellpaire firebox hump from one of my RailKing 2-8-0 also:

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I did Dremel thru the boiler but some JB Weld fixed the hole, backed by a piece of styrene:

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Really surprised by the detail on these RailKing engines:

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Thanks for the insight everyone. B173A3E6-5A05-4B60-A661-1E7E0DECAC4C

Here is the offending piece. It’s only a mm or two (if that) raised above the rest of the boiler and needs trimmed down to get it flush with the body. I ordered a new piece that I will install vertically in the center. After some practice I’ll get to it soon! 

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Last edited by ES44AC

I have done a bunch of zinc grinding (you could call me a real "zinc pest"). Zinc is a pain, but good results can be had. I have ground that very smokebox hatch of the first loco below. You ought to try removing those original sandboxes - that involved a full-sized hacksaw and/or drilling holes all the way around the bases.

Typically I use a Dremel reinforced cutoff wheel (or wheels...) and a careful touch for the heavy lifting, then grinder tools to smooth things down (again with a light touch). Rotary files can be good. Bondo or epoxy can be used to fill low spots; epoxy for big holes. 

Do not be in a hurry. Zinc is hard when you want it to be soft and soft when you want it to be hard. Good results can be had. It was a lot of work (and that varies with your project, of course), but I was proud of the results.

Practice in a hidden area of the boiler or a scrap boiler for a few minutes with your boiler and your tools to get the feel of it

Both of the locos below started out as "RK Mallets". Both also have sound and TMCC. The top is a model of a NYC 0-8-8-0 hump switcher (they had a dozen or so of these) and is a reasonably plausible representation. Old AHM tender shell.  

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This is simply a freelance 2-8-8-2 I did because I wanted to. Kind of a DRGW-flavored piece.

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You will want to mask off the rivets around the perimeter. Maybe a couple of layers of duct tape. I would try and fashion a disk sander for the Dremel for finish work. Maybe one exists already. With a disk the size of a quarter you should be able to get close to the rivets without sanding them off. Also much faster than hand sanding.

Pete

Lots of great insight in here! Thank you to everyone who replied with advice. Real nice work, D500. These RK mallets are good engines especially for projects. Since my engine is already lettered for C&O, I've decided to fashion it towards an H-5 2-6-6-2, even though my model is a slightly larger 2-8-8-2

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