Recently I converted 3 MTH UP Passenger Cars (20-3229-1) to LED lighting. I wired them directly to track power (with a 330 ohm resistor) and I don't like that and want to change it. One time I was running the cars and one of them derailed and I could smell burning electronics. I want to use GRJs board. Since I already have the lights in the car, would I just solder the wires from the lights and the track power to the board and that's it? Or is there more to it? @gunrunnerjohn Also, I was looking on Hennings trains and there out of stock.
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Matt, Hennings should correct the stock situation soon, they have the boards.
As for the burning, the most likely suspect is the wire between the two pickups. If your car derails and a pickup sits on an outside rail, you'll have a direct short through that fairly small wire between the trucks. I've had a number of passenger cars come in with that wire smoked.
The lighting module is indeed a drop-in if you already have the lighting strips. You wire the DC output to the lighting strip, and wire the track power to the AC input of the lighting module, job done. I stick the module to the ceiling of the car in many cases with DS foam tape.
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gunrunnerjohn posted:Matt, Hennings should correct the stock situation soon, they have the boards.
As for the burning, the most likely suspect is the wire between the two pickups. If your car derails and a pickup sits on an outside rail, you'll have a direct short through that fairly small wire between the trucks. I've had a number of passenger cars come in with that wire smoked.
The lighting module is indeed a drop-in if you already have the lighting strips. You wire the DC output to the lighting strip, and wire the track power to the AC input of the lighting module, job done. I stick the module to the ceiling of the car in many cases with DS foam tape.
Thank you.
One more thing, for the wiring to the LEDs I used 22awg wire, should I change to a different size or is that size ok?
Well, it's WAY overkill! I use #30 to wire the LED strips, and typically stranded #26 or #28 for the AC power to the board. Obviously, bigger wire will work, but it's also harder to hide.
gunrunnerjohn posted:Well, it's WAY overkill! I use #30 to wire the LED strips, and typically stranded #26 or #28 for the AC power to the board. Obviously, bigger wire will work, but it's also harder to hide.
Alright. Thanks.
GRJ,
I bought 4 of your boards from Hennings. I've installed them and everything is working. I would like have the lights slightly less bright. There is an item that looked like a phillips head screw (to these old eyes) but on closer inspection the "plus shaped" opening does not move. What tool do I need to adjust the current? Thanks.
Craig
You use a small jeweler's screwdriver, and it will move if you get it in the slot.
GRJ,
Thank you. I'll try the smallest screwdriver I have.
Craig
GRJ, do you recommend installing a re-settable fuse to protect the board and pick-up roller wiring? If so, can you provide us with part number or link?
I use a PTC to protect against a derailment taking out the wiring, I never had any issue with the board, it's really pretty bulletproof. I use a 1/4a trip one for LED lighting, it's more than enough.
GRJ
Can I use these boards or do you have another one for inside lights of one gauge (G) cars useing 18 to 20 v DC track power?
Larry
These would work fine for 18-20 VDC on the track.
In re the PTC, if you're in no particular hurry you can get them for a dime a piece (free shipping from Asia) on eBay. Some suitable parts:
As GRJ says, the lighting board can take care of itself. The PTC protects the roller wiring independent of the LED lighting function. That is, a passenger car with stock incandescent bulbs and no "electronics" can benefit from a PTC to protect the roller wiring during a derailment short circuit. I think the logic goes something like: if you are going to open up the car anyway to convert to LED lighting, why not add the PTC. Otherwise, leave well enough alone.
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Thanks Stan and GRJ. Time to place an order.
How to wire a PTC in that application? Can you just put one leg of the PTC to the end of the wire coming from Roller A and the other leg to the end of the wire coming from Roller B? Then wire the AC inputs to the lighting module to frame ground and the other to either leg of the PTC?
Yep, the PTC is between the two rollers, that protects them if one lands on an outside rail during a derailment. The feed for the lights can come from either side.
GRJ, I just ordered 8 of your lighting regulators (some for current project and some to keep on hand). I have 4 of my S scale passenger cars that I just can't beat the flicker out of. So time for a capacitor, and your module looks like the easy way to do it from what I have read in various OGR posts. Looking forward to installing them.
They should do the trick, however note that they do require around 11-12 volts on the track to function. They're really designed for command operation with constant track voltage.
gunrunnerjohn posted:They should do the trick, however note that they do require around 11-12 volts on the track to function. They're really designed for command operation with constant track voltage.
John here’s a screen shot of a thread last year reporting a test you did which revealed lower voltage operation for conventional. So it should be good unless your design has changed.