Help me design an attic layout

The trains on the shelves look great!  So do the accessories.  Congratulations 

Asymair95 posted:

 My four year old was beside himself with excitement...so much so, that we had a hard time getting him calmed down for bed.

Asymair95 posted:

My four year asked if the logs are really being cut inside the mill...of course I said, yes...lol.

 

Haha! Sounds like you are doing it right!

Great pictures and updates.  The shelves look great and the yellow strip on the road really makes it pop!

I don't mind wiring, I actually think it's fun.  However, it can be slow and you don't get the satisfaction of seeing it, only the results of it - which is still nice.  

Got all the lighting buss wires run last night all around the layout. Can start wiring up building lighting now.

Also finished wiring up the last of the operating accessories.

The operating baggage terminal wired up and running. Behind it you can see the news stand too. I excavated the foam board under the news stand so it would fit flush with the ground. Works great, and the kids love it.

On a side note, I started having derailment issues with a few of the switches. Turns out they don’t like to have track screwed down too close to them. Removed the screws and nails of the connecting track sections on all three sides and the problem went away. Lesson learned.

The flag man is all wired up on an insulated section of track. Works great, but has problems closing all the way sometimes. Is there a specific lube point on these? I didn’t see any screws to take it apart for service.

Also, my insulated track sections don’t work very well with lighter cars, like say a flat bed car or something light like that. Boxcars and such are fine. Is this the nature of the beast?...or do I have a problem?

ASYMAIR 95: I've enjoyed following your progress, and, Happy Birthday, too!

Rusty

My screws aren't into wood on the table, and on the ceiling there's no downward pressure either. It's just corralled by 3 screws. The switch can float, but is very limited. 

The nature of the beast. Pressure is the largest factor on a low resistance connection. A point under X (?) pounds of pressure can equal a square inch of "rubbing pressure"

But really only the lead wheels are the concern.  Everything else is wasted effort, plastc wheels could be run. The points must be in place before those lead wheels get there, thats it. So really clean front wheels, the axle to wheel/truck contact, and contact rails. Running  though them a whole bunch might help some.  

For switching, you are kinda supposed to throw the points yourself, at least sometimes.  Lionel suggested cleaning wheels and rails of course, but also to  add a stronger pilot truck spring if you can (more downward pressure).

If you have a problem child, you might try soldering connections on the contact rails circuit that are just pressure fits at the moment to reduce all resistance possiblities except wheels. (soldering at tabs,traces,& stationary rivets, etc).   

A pressure contactor could be a workaround for one as well as setting up a 2nd isolated rail on plain track to compliment those on the turnout. 

Asymair95 posted:

On a side note, I started having derailment issues with a few of the switches. Turns out they don’t like to have track screwed down too close to them. Removed the screws and nails of the connecting track sections on all three sides and the problem went away. Lesson learned.

Each layout is different. One just "tunes" it to operate smoothly.

The flag man is all wired up on an insulated section of track. Works great, but has problems closing all the way sometimes. Is there a specific lube point on these? I didn’t see any screws to take it apart for service.

Go to the Olsen's service documents. First page is attached. The top right describes the common issues for sluggish operation. I believe there are tabs on the bottom that hold the shed on to the base. Bend those straight carefully with a thin flat screwdriver inserted to the tab protrusions and lift up. Re-bend by putting the blade edge on the seam and rock the screwdriver to bend close.

Page 1 is attached

Also, my insulated track sections don’t work very well with lighter cars, like say a flat bed car or something light like that. Boxcars and such are fine. Is this the nature of the beast?...or do I have a problem?

Clean wheels always help, but, yes, the lighter weight could reduce contact with the rail. Hide some fishing weights or auto wheel weights on the light cars. Test the weight theory by placing something on the car to make it a little heavier. I am assuming that you have all postwar metal equipment and not the plastic trucks of the MPC era.

I love to hear that the children are getting excited as you continue to bring the layout alive. Winter is still with us - keep at it!

Lots of wiring still. Got all the street lights wired.

Tonight I will wire in the work lights for the sidings.

Has not been much visible progress recently, so I haven’t posted anything. The past few days I started building the tunnel.

The main portal is a woodland scenic product that comes as a plain white plaster and you need to paint. The retaining  walls are foamboard I carved and painted. This was my first attempt at anything like this, but I was pleasantly surprised.

I have also continued with wiring lighting.

I got the 450 signal wired up. I used a three position toggle for each side so the kids and I can change it from red to green.

Got all three block signals wired up. The green light is on a switch so the kids can control it. The red light is on a section of insulated track for each signal.

All yard lighting is wired up. Each switch controls two lights. The kids like that there are lots and lots of switches for them to play with.

Finished up the tunnel tonight. When the paint dries I will put some trees in. It came out much better than I anticipated.

Filled out the basic form of the mountain with scrap foam pieces, then glued it down. Once dry, I put a thin layer of expanding foam on top and laid the quilt batting into it.

Dabbed some paint on. Looks wonderful, and I haven’t even added ground cover yet.

All things considered, looks pretty good. 

That has the fifties look to  it. I was wondering how the shape was going happen. Now, I know.

Which spray foam did you use - the low expansion type? 

Can the whole structure be lifted off of the table ?

Wow! Seriously fantastic work! The retaining walls are great

Not sure of the foam, it was “Great Stuff” in the red can. Works really well because it cures rapidly and allows you to form ridges and valleys as it sets up.

I was going to make it lift off, but it’s very short and accessible so I can just stick my arm in there. There’s not much holding it down, just a few drops of hot glue. If I had to take it off I’m sure it wouldn’t be a major headache.

Tonight it’s back to work on the lighting. So many wires...ugggh.

 I'm not sure you can mess up foam stone   I dry brushed and rubbed tiny bits & streaks of every color in the rainbow; my metalics too, and it just adds to it.

Nice texture and the overall paint is prefect Mr. Angelo

One detail....Electric only? No smoke soot at the portal arch apex?

Thanks. I built a really large 2 piece mountain with a frame and screen and used Great Stuff that had to be really thick. It took days to dry. Then, it was a bear to carve.

Good idea to use filler stuff. The fabric made for a quick surface like an eroded hill. I was going for the jagged rock look.

I also discovered Loctite's recent foam filler product. It expands less with a finer texture. 

Again, a good result and I am always interested in different techniques.

I forgot to mention - I like the 317 bridges - I bought a couple in the same condition - I just lightly steel wooled the big pieces of rust. They look great, weathered and aged in that condition. 

Thank you. Wish I could take credit, but I learned the technique from a guy on YouTube.  Easiest part was spraying the foam and laying the batting in it. When it was dry I cut it to fit and painted it. 

The bridges were left exactly how I received them from the eBay sellers. The crustier, the better. The two bridges are different, one is a 317, not sure about the other. It has bent over tabs holding everything together, where the other bridge is spot welded everywhere. 

Had a nice run session with the kids and their friends. Fun was had by all.

Looks like you had a gang of interested kids!  Looks great!

Nicely done, you've made quick work of the layout!  It would be great to see a video of the trains as the run around the layout.  Glad to see you all enjoying it!

Just catching up on your progress. Everything looks great. The mountain came out perfect.

Keep up the good work- looks like the kids are having fun too.

I have always liked the city cloverleaf section of the layout.  I made that section in SCARM and a video of the simulation. (sorry about the quality, I don't have a video tuner card, just a screen video)

It would at least a minute and 20 seconds to traverse the entire loop one time at a medium speed.

Cool section of layout! 

caution: keep the train short as I bit my own tail the on the first try. The conductor in the caboose was really upset when the engine crunched the car in front of it. 

Thanks guys. The kids really had a blast. My two kids see the trains all the time, but their two friends had never seen anything like this before...they were astonished. Even their Mom was impressed with how well it held their attention, as they are hard to please I guess. They really liked all the buttons along the edge, and the logging accessories. Particularly the saw mill, I told them their was a real saw inside cutting the wood...lol...they were impressed.

I will get a video of all the trains running soon. I’m working on a wiring problem in one of the block signals at the moment. Think one of the ground wires has a bad connection. I made a short video of the 2354 running on the elevated line a few days ago.

https://youtu.be/bm-HF4da1Io

I like the town section too Moonman. It definitely requires your attention though. I had a Gomez Adams accident when several cars uncoupled on one of the four way sections and with the reduced drag the engine sped up around the cloverleaf and T boned the line of cars. It was spectacular! I thought I was going to have issues with derailments and such because of all the turns and switches, but it really hasn’t been bad.

I’m currently looking for a 362 barrel loader accessory, and a cattle corral for the farm. Also want a control tower for the airport. It never ends...does it...lol.

 

Question: I find most of my engines are happiest running around 10-11 volts. This gives me a nice scale(ish) speed and maintains enough momentum to get around the 180 degree turns. This sound right to everyone?

Yep. That is actually a nice voltage. (I forget, did you check those throttle rollers? Don't delay that and recheck at times. Damage is not really reversible.) It can vary from 9v to about 18v on open frame motors. (i.e. amps can come into play too, one 1033 wont run two of my engines loaded at full throttle 15v aprx 5a max. but the same trains run fine at 12-13v on the higher amps output of the KW or Z.) (they can each pull a 5.75a peak on start up or any heavy throttle change) I have half a dozen that can handle the full throttle of a 1033 (kid proof ), but everything I have will roll in the curves with the "big dogs" (including the AF 18b). (for my lone 1032, increase it to four that won't go at full throttle (3.75-4a?))

Asymair95 posted:

Thanks guys. The kids really had a blast. My two kids see the trains all the time, but their two friends had never seen anything like this before...they were astonished. Even their Mom was impressed with how well it held their attention, as they are hard to please I guess. They really liked all the buttons along the edge, and the logging accessories. Particularly the saw mill, I told them their was a real saw inside cutting the wood...lol...they were impressed.

I will get a video of all the trains running soon. I’m working on a wiring problem in one of the block signals at the moment. Think one of the ground wires has a bad connection. I made a short video of the 2354 running on the elevated line a few days ago.

https://youtu.be/bm-HF4da1Io

I like the town section too Moonman. It definitely requires your attention though. I had a Gomez Adams accident when several cars uncoupled on one of the four way sections and with the reduced drag the engine sped up around the cloverleaf and T boned the line of cars. It was spectacular! I thought I was going to have issues with derailments and such because of all the turns and switches, but it really hasn’t been bad.

I’m currently looking for a 362 barrel loader accessory, and a cattle corral for the farm. Also want a control tower for the airport. It never ends...does it...lol.

 

Thanks for the video - nice layout - you efforts are rewarded!  Gomez didn't have accidents  but, I get it

Your layout looks good, and the NYC F3 set looks great running effortlessly across your track!  We all have accidents, except Gomez.  

I am very impressed with how quickly you got your layout together. Love the track plan and I'm jealous of all that space. Good job.

You've inspired me to work on my attic layout again. I've done little to it in the last 2 years.