Help me design an attic layout

Moonman,

I really like the trestle and bridge. I have a bridge already and will be looking for a trestle set soon. I would also like to add a girder bridge on a small rise, maybe an inch or two. Also purchased the Midwest cork roadbed.

Was thinking of adding an elevated trestle loop over the track on the big middle section where the 8 is. What do you think?

Asymair95 posted:

Moonman,

I really like the trestle and bridge. I have a bridge already and will be looking for a trestle set soon. I would also like to add a girder bridge on a small rise, maybe an inch or two. Also purchased the Midwest cork roadbed.

Was thinking of adding an elevated trestle loop over the track on the big middle section where the 8 is. What do you think?

That would depend on the boys. That would be too difficult of a train to play with for my grandson. He is 6.  he does well getting cars and engines railed on deck height, but sometimes will miss a truck.

I only coach them on their train table. What is on it is free game.

If you limit the voltage to the elevated train, it could be a no touch, run only line for them.

Well, you have the run under the window and along the short length wall to create a low rise up and down. 

Carl

Arctic Railroad

Asymair95 posted:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/40pcs...p2057872.m2749.l2649

I found some switches I like. Think they will work fine for the kids to play with.

Did you notice that they are latching?  On will stay on until pressed again. Something will get cooked. Good switch for building lights on or off or motorized animated things, like lemax Ferris wheels and such, or the beacon tower, the radar tower.

We used the momentary switches on the museum layout with a relay. They can push and hold or continuous push, but it's only activated once until it cycles completely.

Those are good to have on hand.

You'll find with stuff for trains, that when you find something that you like for a purpose, you should get extras. You will want another one later.

Carl

Arctic Railroad

Thank you for that trestle link. 

I did get the latching for lights and such. There are a few accessories I would like to run on those too. Need to get some momentary on buttons too for other things like you said.

I think the elevated trestle would be OK as long as it was a small motorized unit like the trolly or gang car. I wouldn’t let them put larger trains up there for safety reasons.

Last night I finished up cleaning all the o27 track and switches. Today I will start on the o31 stuff. Should go quick.

On my o42 switches the red and green lanterns lost their plastic colored lenses. I found them in the bottom of the box, but how do I get them back in? Crazy glue?

Thank you again.

The arcade buttons should not be latching.

Prefabbed metal reinforcement plates and button mounting L brackets are available through arcade suppliers. (my old suppler is out of businesses). (The hole is a bit large for easily drilling your own in metal)(the mounting brackets are usually used inside the game/vending cabnets for programing, etc.)

I can attest to duck unders and lifts getting old fast.  You'll end up ducking anyhow to avoid lifting, smashing fingers, running a train off a cliff, etc..

PITA enough to scrap the yard on a 15x30 oval for a dogbone.

If I did another out of necessity, the bridge (or hatch) would drop down vs lift. 

"Still trying to not shoot my eye out"

 

"Nursing insomnia one railcar at a time"

My aroma therapy? Smoke Pellets.

 





But, that same basic smaller square style can be had in arcade form too.

The arcade buttons are made for abuse if proper. They rival the #90 for durability.

"Still trying to not shoot my eye out"

 

"Nursing insomnia one railcar at a time"

My aroma therapy? Smoke Pellets.

 





IMG_1544-001Congratulations on getting your benchwork roughed out.  As Frank (Moonman) suggested ease those sharp hurtful exterior corners before much railroad work is done. Also avoid a duckunder ( if considered) by installing a piano hinged drop section which you can disguise as a plate girder bridge. Jim Barrett did a video[#11) of "how to" as well as parts,etc. You will seriously regret a duckunder as others have said, yet it will provide much flexibility in track planning for longerIMG_1636IMG_1582-001100_1321100_1322 runs. My drop section pictured below  was built from Jim's long ago article in O-Gauge Magazine and is rescued from two of my former layouts.   

A&Y RY[NC's Southern/N&W connector].

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Answer to your thoughts about an elevated line - yes, if it has somewhere to go - two small hills do that with a station and a platform

You can cut your own support pylons from wood and paint them for a clean look

Asymair95_Layout_01.16.18_3D_Trestles_Elevated_Line

If you want some SCARM buildings to play with, search the net for SCARM Hi-Railers. Forum member John D. and his father own the site.

Save the file and open in a second instance of SCARM. Then copy and paste into the layout SCARM. Set the properties for height and such, rotate for position.

I also found the O27 bridge for the trestle run. The other was an O #317, which was too long. 

Carl

Arctic Railroad

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Moonman posted:
JD2035RR posted:

It's amazing how you bring these things to life, Carl.  Great job!

Thank you. I give credit to others for creating the structures. They have some talent.

The 3D is really helpful to portray an idea.  

I've tried scarm on my home computer, and there's a bit of a learning curve.  You make it seem easy.

JD

 

That looks great. Will post back when all my track is cleaned and ready for install. Any chance of two outside loops? Maybe one in o31 on the outside, and one in o27 on the inside? The village area looks great, I like the raised trestle, it’s really going to make it look nice. The bridge I have is a 314 I believe. Is it too big for this layout? Maybe I could just go up 3” instead of the full 4” to shorten the incline and decline run? 

Received my 128 operating newsstand  in the mail today. Of course it didn’t work...lol. Been futzing with it all night trying to get the spring tension, and coil air gap right. The problem I was having was the string kept jumping off the pulley. I ended up gluing a guide around the string to keep it from whipping so much and falling off. Works pretty good now. It’s slow, but dependable now.

Also received my operating baggage terminal today. It didn’t work either. That’s tomorrow’s project. It hums and vibrates a bit, but the carts don’t move very well. I adjusted the screws on the bottom, but that didn’t do much. 

Thank you again for the track plan, looks great. 

ASYMAIR95,

I would not put a double main. The track to scenery ration would go to high, the curves diameters are awkward to make interesting and overall would take away from your goal.

You will find that the accessories and buildings take a lot of real estate. Just start placing them on the table to see for yourself.

I like the full trestle set to put on show on that long wall. It's rather boring if you don't.

Post new topics on tuning these accessories. There is a wealth of experience and knowledge on how to make them work reliably. There is also, Olsen's, which has a library of service documents that sometimes have tuning and modification tips. Here is the 128 newsstand. The string coming off is due to too high of a voltage. You'll find that each accessory has a sweet spot for voltage. Many times you can videos on YouTube of them working.

For the newer accessories, viewing the Lionel parts diagram and getting assistance from forum members definitely helps.

Trees, you cannot have enough trees. Bottle brush trees work to get going and are relatively inexpensive.

Don't lose sight of your goal -get the heirloom trains up and running - keep it simple to accomplish it. You and the boys will want to build another one together.

here's the latest version of the layout. Added another siding to the O layout using one of the switches that you acquired.

The Rico station silhouetted against the window light would look nice. it is both freight and passenger.

Asymair95_Layout_01.19.18_3D

 

Carl

Arctic Railroad

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Looks great. Is there a go to place for cheap trees? I did some looking and they are pretty expensive.

Like that layout, think it will work great for the look I’m going for. I bought a 110 trestle set last night still in the original sealed bags. They are brown ones, but have all the required clips. Is there a trestle set that Lionel made that is just the raised sections, not the incline/decline? 

Thank you for the accessory tips. 

Asymair95 posted:

Looks great. Is there a go to place for cheap trees? I did some looking and they are pretty expensive.

Like that layout, think it will work great for the look I’m going for. I bought a 110 trestle set last night still in the original sealed bags. They are brown ones, but have all the required clips. Is there a trestle set that Lionel made that is just the raised sections, not the incline/decline? 

Thank you for the accessory tips. 

Cheap trees - If you are looking for evergreen, the best tip I have heard is to pick up an old artificial Christmas tree, and cut the branches into varying sizes of trees, and shape the needles accordingly.

The Lionel 111 trestle set is the elevated (all approximately 4 - 7/8 inches high I believe). However, you can certainly make your own out of 1x4s that could allow for greater clearance below.

 

   

JD

 

That’s a great tip, will check out Craigslist for someone giving one away. The wife is going to love me. Every other day a new box is showing up. The only thing saving me from certain doom is the excitement from the kids when we open them...lol. She gives me this look like “You’re lucky...this time” because she can see how happy the kids are.

Trees - making them is craft the boys can do now - there are weeds that work well for arbors - get them gooey and sprinkle stuff on them - or dunk in a box-

There may still be some of the bare weed sticks in a field near you.

check out youtube for various techniques

I do mostly winter - so the frosted bottle brush trees can found for not a lot of money. I couldn't find any plain versions yet.

Carl

Arctic Railroad

How many power taps (lockons) will a layout of this size need? 

Also, I have a zw transformer, and four smaller individual transformers. How many will I need total to run sidings, lighting, accessories, and trains?

Thank you again for helping a flailing newbie.

JD2035RR posted:
Asymair95 posted:

Looks great. Is there a go to place for cheap trees? I did some looking and they are pretty expensive.

Like that layout, think it will work great for the look I’m going for. I bought a 110 trestle set last night still in the original sealed bags. They are brown ones, but have all the required clips. Is there a trestle set that Lionel made that is just the raised sections, not the incline/decline? 

Thank you for the accessory tips. 

Cheap trees - If you are looking for evergreen, the best tip I have heard is to pick up an old artificial Christmas tree, and cut the branches into varying sizes of trees, and shape the needles accordingly.

The Lionel 111 trestle set is the elevated (all approximately 4 - 7/8 inches high I believe). However, you can certainly make your own out of 1x4s that could allow for greater clearance below.

 

   

I have the 111 set but only used it for the grades. I made my elevated posts out of 1" wood dowel. My only suggestion is to make them about 5 1/2". I made mine 5" and some newer stuff doesn't fit under my upper level.

2017-01-14 09.54.432017-05-06 08.55.36

Three Rails Are Better Than None 

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Asymair95 posted:

How many power taps (lockons) will a layout of this size need? 

Id say about every 3-4 ft.. Less if you use 3ft sections. I like to solder to the underside of tubular curves as being close to the feed in curves really helps steady the speed.

Also, I have a zw transformer, and four smaller individual transformers. How many will I need total to run sidings, lighting, accessories, and trains?

As many as you wish though the ZW alone could handle.a lot. BUT when using two or more transformers together they do need to be "phased". This is new and old types alike. The best video imo is on Youtube, search there for Phasing Lionel Transformers, and chose the one by Lionel.

Thank you again for helping a flailing newbie.

Our pleasure !

 

"Still trying to not shoot my eye out"

 

"Nursing insomnia one railcar at a time"

My aroma therapy? Smoke Pellets.

 





Asymair95 posted:

How many power taps (lockons) will a layout of this size need? 

The trains will tell you that - they will slow in areas - I would suggest to start with six for the O27 line - two on each side between the ends

two for the O31 - and one for the elevated

Also, I have a zw transformer, and four smaller individual transformers. How many will I need total to run sidings, lighting, accessories, and trains?

Again, it depends on the trains - Use a handle  of the ZW (A& D) for each main loop - use the accessory terminals B & C to group accessories by voltage 14v for switches and 12-14 volt for whatever likes that

use a smaller transformer for the elevated line and another smaller transformer as needed if an accessory likes a different voltage

Thank you again for helping a flailing newbie.

A Handy Reference is attached to reduce flailing - don't let the boys see that!

 

Carl

Arctic Railroad

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RSJB18 posted:
JD2035RR posted:
Asymair95 posted:

Looks great. Is there a go to place for cheap trees? I did some looking and they are pretty expensive.

Like that layout, think it will work great for the look I’m going for. I bought a 110 trestle set last night still in the original sealed bags. They are brown ones, but have all the required clips. Is there a trestle set that Lionel made that is just the raised sections, not the incline/decline? 

Thank you for the accessory tips. 

Cheap trees - If you are looking for evergreen, the best tip I have heard is to pick up an old artificial Christmas tree, and cut the branches into varying sizes of trees, and shape the needles accordingly.

The Lionel 111 trestle set is the elevated (all approximately 4 - 7/8 inches high I believe). However, you can certainly make your own out of 1x4s that could allow for greater clearance below.

  

I have the 111 set but only used it for the grades. I made my elevated posts out of 1" wood dowel. My only suggestion is to make them about 5 1/2". I made mine 5" and some newer stuff doesn't fit under my upper level.

2017-01-14 09.54.432017-05-06 08.55.36

Is your tender on backwards?

TCA - 10 - 64769

Active Ferroequinologist

Collector of 40' scale boxcars

Collector of NYC steam in all gauges

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