Help me design an attic layout

I did an around the room layout in my attic-like spare room. For me that was the best option as far as "real-estate".

The layout in the video is the opposite to what you say you would like, around the room. It looks like video layout would fit in your space with some small changes so why not have it in the middle of the room and walk around it?

Allowing for a 2' aisle, best possible table is about 7x12. Consider that on two sides your aisle is going to have a sloped ceiling overhead.

An 11x12 around-the-room layout will work nicely. The height of your knee wall and/or the bottom of the window will be the controlling height of the bench work. One advantage, with lower bench work your top can be wider. I'd suggest 42" max. A peninsula in the center (from window back towards the door) will give you space for sidings/yard area.

Were it mine, I'd do a U shaped folded dog bone with reversing loops on each end.  

I'm doing a layout in the attic of our A-frame, the room is 13-1/2 x 13-1/2 but due to the severe roof slope my layout is 13-1/2 by 7'.  Around the walls is the only way to go for me as it affords me an 072 outer loop and an 064 inner loop. Good luck, that's a nice sized room you have.

Thank you fellas...around the room it is then.  Anyone have any horse shoe shaped track plans they like? 

Are there any step by step instructions for building a layout like the video posted above? I’ve looked around on YouTube, but didn’t see much. 

What color for the walls?

Hi ASYMAIR95,

Some other considerations:

1. The knee wall height is higher than the window sill height -- going to the highest point where the slope starts decreases use of table top for train clearance-- I would suggest somewhere between to two heights or just below the window sill. Can you hang the AC units in the top sash?
2. Speaking of the windows--that table may have to more narrow than the rest -- you'll need access to the windows
3. It's appears that the long wall has the heat unit-- that table should stand away from the wall to permit good convection--floor to ceiling air flow
4. Electrical needs--are the receptacles for this area on their breaker in the electrical panel? Are the receptacles on one circuit or separate circuits? Are any of the receptacles switched on/off by a switch near the door? Having clean power and the ability to power the layout on/off at the door are good options
5. Are you satisfied with the lighting?

I would paint what ever vertical wall is exposed and the ceilings in Sherwin-Williams Tibetan Sky - it is a very light blue - like the color of the horizon over the tree tops on a sunny day- it shows less blue when brightly lit and slightly darker in dimmer light. It is actually a white with a touch of blue.

I don't see any need to do the end walls. You may want to paint a scene or put backdrop photos there.

You'll also need a visual block for AC unit(s) in the windows. They are what they are, a necessity, but if you hide them in any way, it will look better.

here's a concept for the U shape with an allowance for the baseboard connector. The grid is 6" blocks.

I can see the long corner being good for a yard/engine storage and using Gilly's thoughts. if you give me a few measurements and some clarification on track inventory, I can put together a track plan concept to start you off. 30" wide tables except for the window end and the turnaround ends near the door. 24" in front of the windows.

I apologize, Welcome to the OGR Forum!

I am sure you'll find what you need with the wealth of knowledge that the forum members have.

Thank you for the help Moonman. That is the kind of brain stimulation I was looking for. Let me try and answer some of the questions.

-The window ac units are for the downstairs bedrooms, not the windows in this room. We are just storing them here for the moment.  There will be no ac in these windows.

-We usually do not open these windows. Wasps tend to come in when we do. Thinking we can keep the benchwork wider in this spot.

-The heater is not used too much in this area, helps keep the fuel oil bill down. Will be using a plug in heater to just heat this room. Summers I will not be using the trains much, so no need for cooling.

-I will check the electrical out today. That was something I hadn’t thought of. Will report back with findings.

-The only lighting in this area at the moment is on the ceiling fan in the middle of the room. What would you recommend for lighting on a layout? Something on a dimmer switch I assume? A fan would be a bad idea because it would blow around scenic grass and foam?

-Will head out today and find some Tibetan blue. I need to paint the whole room because it needs it. It hasn’t seen paint in decades. Also need to finish some baseboard trim and paint before I start. Hoping to get that going today.

-Some updated measurements:

The shorter long wall is 135”

The longer long wall is 202”

The window wall is 137”

The door section of wall is 61” from door frame to corner of  shorter long wall.

The last section of wall is from door frame to corner of longer long wall. This section of wall is not angled, it is flat and perpendicular to the window wall. This piece is 70”

The only section that is angled is the wall with the door in it.

Height of the knee wall is 44”

Height to bottom of window sash is 34”

Thank you again for all the help. 

Just a quick back story. All of my track, and most of my trains came to me from my Father. They were his and my Uncles when they were kids in the 50’s. My Grandfather who I was very close with bought most of these train sets for them and spent hours playing with them with the kids. My Grandfather, and Uncle have both since passed. My Dad is 71, and I would like him to see his trains running once again before his health deteriorates. I now have children of my own 4 and 7, and would like to pass on this Lionel tradition.

Thank you again for your help. I’m currently cleaning all of their old track and will get a track count for you. I figured I could always buy more if I ran out. Thanks again

Welcome to the forum. Lot's of great talent and advice to be found here. I agree with Tom and Carl, an around the room "folded dog bone" style layout would work best. The head room along the wall is poor due to the roof line so better to place the trains there. I peninsula in the center would make for a great yard for switching trains.

Think about how you want to operate your trains- do you like to do a lot of switching or loop running.

If you want operating accessories watch the size of them. They take up a lot of real estate.

Try and use larger radius curves (054 min), as this will allow longer trains to negotiate curves easily.

How many trains do you want to run simultaneously?

You've come to the right place for help.

Bob

The whole room may be too much blue. Paint it any color that you like.

At the top of the forum, in the blue menu bar, you will see a search button.

Search attic layout a look at some of posts. That will give you some ideas of how other forum members utilize the space.

I think you'll need a fan at times. You can always get some different LED bulbs in different colors (2700k, 3200k, 5000k) to change the look. it should be ok for what you want to do and keep the costs down.

Thanks for the measurements. 34" isn't too low for a deck height - set up something flat that high and see how you like it. Avoiding going around the windows over the sill will make the build easier. That will give you 8"-10" on the sides of vertical space for buildings flats or painted scenery.

I'll set up the walls in my software and a beginning table shape to start and make them 30" wide, except for the ends near the door. 24"may work for you and it will make better use of sheet material. Cut a piece of cardboard and lay four lines of straight and an accessory or building, maybe a switch. Mock up what can fit for the long runs. You may be surprised with 24".

keeps things simple now to get something up and running. That will be enough of a task.

I can offer you a suggestion you may want to consider for your walls and ceiling. How eager you are to wanting the walls and ceiling painted would be a factor.

Using a roller, I gave the whole room a basecoat of a not-too-bright off-white; then, I painted the blue, using a brush, with my attitude relaxed, bit by bit. When I came to a spot where I thought a cloud might be happy, I left that area unpainted in blue, leaving it white; thus, having more of a creative experience than a chore.

The gradual process turned out to be fun. So, all the clouds you see here were not painted atop the blue sky. Rather, the blue was painted up to where I imagined clouds would be, letting the clouds take shape in front of me.

And of course I realized that if I wanted parts of the sky to be a little more stormy, I could take a bit of gray and shade/feather the bottoms in anytime I wanted.

Those are all amazing recommendations, thank you, thank you.

I checked the power today and all four outlets are hot and non switched. I think the whole attic is on one breaker.

I was thinking of making the benchwork wider, just using 4x8 sheets around the perimeter. Is 48” too deep to use for the top of the benchwork? That would leave me with 3’ in the middle to move around between the two sections. 

I would like a good mix of loop running and switching, with emphasis on loop running. I would like to run three trains at once, with a trolly/gang car line. I mainly will be using the sidings for storage of cars and engines. The few operating accessories I have could be on their own siding.

I bought some paint today and will get to work with the roller and brush.

Thank you again for the help.

Joe

Asymair95 posted:

I was thinking of making the benchwork wider, just using 4x8 sheets around the perimeter. Is 48” too deep to use for the top of the benchwork?

Height to bottom of window sash is 34”

Joe

If you build 32" tall bench work (same as I have in my attic layout), 42" wide is doable. I would not suggest going 48". FWIW, you can get under 32" bench work, but it is not fun. I'm 6'2" and can barely sit up under the layout. If I could have built it @34", I would have.

I was doing some mock up today and discovered what you are talking about. 48” is difficult to reach across for someone my height 5’9”. I am going with 34” on the height. 

I painted all the baseboard and doorway trim yesterday. This week will be the blue on the walls/clouds, and buying wood for the benchwork. 

Every night after everyone is in bed I clean 10 pieces of track. I have already cleaned, repaired, and tested all the switches. 

Interesting perspective on too low. My issue was it being seen while lounging on a sofa. 30" would have been nice I think, but before I ever take some off the legs I have something new to measure; the melon to joist clearance.

I'd want at least enough at 40" or 50" to fit an 0-36 or 0-48 line in. I know your focus is postwar, but there are just too many tempting engines that need something bigger than 0-31. You can't even run an old Berk, FM-TM, GG-1 etc on the 0-27, the 0-31 would be pushing it slightly.

Asymair95 posted:

Every night after everyone is in bed I clean 10 pieces of track. I have already cleaned, repaired, and tested all the switches. 

BTW, when it comes to track cleaning, you aren't using steel wool are you?

A few comments on the comments.

Running a 726 Berkshire - I've run mine witht Irvingtom, Manhattan and Madison on my O-31 test loop with no problems, but it looks ridiculous.  You need two inches clearnace from the third rail on the outside of the curve.  Consider using O-56 on the outer loop, O-31 on the inner and something between on the middle.

The GG1 on O-31 is fine, the articulated chassis has four short segments.

Consider running all the way raound the room and having a lift bridge at the doorway.  It's not difficult and would give you about 50 foot long loops with no worries about the kind of crowding you'd have at the end of a dogbone.  I've built two of them, on curves.  I'll take some photos and post them tomorrow or Tuesday.  

I have solved all of the problems of maintaining alignment and electrical continuity.  Maybe I should write an article about building drawbridges.

In regard to accessories, If you want to be able to use the 97 coal elevator or 164 log loader, you need two tracks 15 inches apart.  That's an exact fit for a layout using  022 switches.  Consider this lyard diagram with a reverse curve between A and c and an 022 at B.  Tracks 1 and 2 will be 15 inches apart and the 97 0r 164 will fit perfectly.

1_____A

              \C______B______

2_____________  /

Got the room painted a nice shade of blue. The Mrs. said she would do the clouds for me, she likes artsy stuff like that.

Some answers to concerns posted above.

I don’t want to use a wider radius track than the o31 I currently have. Part of the reason for building this layout is the nostalgia of running trains on track that was used by my Grandpa, Uncle, and Dad. This is why I’m going through all the trouble of cleaning the old track. I’ve seen videos of the wider radius track, looks great though. I have more o27 than I have o31 though.

I do have a few engines that will require the o31 track. There is a GG1 and Southern F3 that need the wider radius. Most everything else is o27 friendly.

I’m using 3m pads to clean the track, followed by a wipe down with wd40. The oil will be removed before running.

I was thinking about adding a complete loop around the room. The door to the room opens into the room though and would hit the benchwork. 

I don’t have either of those accessories. The only one left is the 364 log loader. All the other ones were sold several years ago when we fell on hard times

I would like to buy back some of the accessories we sold during that time. I will have to get a list together.

mlaughlinnyc posted:

Maybe I should write an article about building drawbridges.

Yes, you should. I can always use articles like that.

 Im not even addressing overhang looks, just versatility and my own regrets.

I only have a few modern pieces, and no huge desire for more, and defiantly not huge steam like a Big Boy, etc.; but already know two of my "new" medium-large choices would be no-go due to curve limits.  I have "all three" old track types in seperate loops on at ground level, and one more elevated 0-27 all on a 4.5x9 for a deep dish spaghetti bowl. Most of old the 0-27 and some old Super O (0-36) is there for much the same reason, "family track". but a larger loop still could have been worked in, and been a touch nicer, allowed bigger locos and/or allow more "scale" loco choices as even small ones are going to have greater restrictions in curves.

   Wanting to run fat wheel tin plate and also run smaller wheel flanges on the squared Super O rails, had me glad I had squared tube at least, but I was also removing the Super O switches a year or so after the install, to pass fat wheels and shoes by too.. sigh. I was aware and warned too; hindsight is a bit... ...too late.

Much of my being satisfied with old track went out the window the first time I added and used a new 3' section. On my ceiling layout, much of the track got soldered together to kill off pin issues as they occured. Another $40 in new track would have paid for itself easy vs repair times, even at only $5 an hour, plus lost performance, plus pita...

...just sayin', new metal is awsome & think about future possibilities

ASYMAIR95,

The room looks good.

Did you ever determine if the room is on its' on breaker?

You have assessed the infrastructure concerns. Identify the wall stud spacing now to the build easier when start.

I see that your are thinking of a wide table of about 42". View some of the photos that Dewey and others posted of their attic layouts. I don't think it's really necessary to have a table that wide when doing an around the room. You can create a peninsula, say for a yard or engine service area (as others have suggested) if you want one at a later time.

Around the room employs a different point of view or visual perspective to work with than a table layout. using the lower table height will permit building flats and scenic items along remaining vertical on the knee wall sides of the room. ~ 8" I believe, from your measurements.

You could save a lot of time using Evapo-Rust on the track. True value and auto stores should have the gallon. It will clean everything off and not harm the insulating paper. Soak, rinse with water, let dry, done.

Thinking about a track plan, I went back and viewed the layout that posted the link to on YouTube. The big difference with what you can do using an around the room is yours will be a stretched or expanded version. You will be able to have scenic areas separated. City, suburbs, woods, fields, hills, mountains. Perhaps traveling from one city to another. You could have a pseudo logging scene and the log loader and then travel to the other side to a sawmill/lumber yard scene.

Anyway, even if it's not deeply developed, having a reason for a train to run around adds to the viewing enjoyment.

Also, don't let the door stop you from thinking about going completely around the room. A lift out is not difficult to build. It's like a removable bridge. The track plan on the ends could designed now to permit changing the route or adding the change to a line in the future. (back to keep it simple and get trains running now)

Thanks for sharing your build project. It helps others and anyone with a layout will admit that this is a fun part process.

Here’s an idea for a layout that would give the maximum length of around the wall run with an allowance for the swing of the door.  The area behind the door could be for stub sidings.  I’m assuming a centered three foot door opening.

 I made a few assumptions about distance constraints.  I’m 5-10, and my greatest reach to set a train back on the track is about 33 inches,  given  a three foot high table.  That means a 3’ wide table. 

The sketch is based on  a continuous outside loop with a drawbridge or lift out section at the door.  It might be easier to have it be a hinged drop-down.  The two inner tracks could continue across the doorway on a 15 to 20 inch wide bridge. 

 Alternatively, the two inner tracks could converge with the outer track to cross the bridge, but then when running three trains, you’d need some traffic  control.  Of course that wouldn’t work if you want to start three trains and let them run.

 Did  I saw you mention that most of your equipment could run on  O-27 ?  With O-31 on the outer loop and O-27 on the inner, there are a lot of options to cross the doorway. 

 You didn’t say whether you must have a way to reverse trains.  There would be room for two loops at the window end of the room.

 The upper left hand corner shows space for a coal elevator and log loader.  You would have to close the door for access there.

 If you want to pursue the idea of a bridge across the doorway, I’d be glad to sketch a few specific possibilities and give you some rough specs for a drop-down section.

 Now I’m asking myself why am I doing this.  I think it’s because I enjoy working out layout problems but don’t have the room to build what I design.  I’ve designed much of the track layout on a famous HO model railroad club but don’t have the skills for actually building the track.  So I’m glad to do anything I can to help with  design .

 Malcolm Laughlin

Today I went to Lowe’s and started purchasing lumber and supplies. 

5 sheets osb

10 2x4 studs for legs

20 1x4 for the frame.

paint

drywall mud

14ga wire red, black, grey

wire taps

glue

screws

foam

And some other things I can’t remember right now

Mlaughlin, I’m thinking to start I would like to stick with a simple horse shoe design. Later I could possibly add on and do the lift gate. Your layout plan looks nice though. 

Moonman, I’m trying to picture a thinner bench top with an Island. Are you saying the peninsula would come out from the window area? This would make three long table tops, but just not as wide? How would I run multiple trains on a layout like this? If I did 32” wide I could run an outside loop of o31 and an inside of o27, but I’m not sure it would leave much room for sidings, accessories, and buildings.

The attic is on one breaker. There really is nothing drawing much power up there. Just a tv that doesn’t get used.

Thanks for the tip on evaporust, will give it a try.

Will check on the stud spacing. Will we be fastening the bench to the wall?

I looked up homasote at Home Depot and it is very expensive. I’m going to go with some cork roadbed from Midwest cork and paint/ballast it.

Forgot to mention my total at Lowe’s today was $280.

With kids aged 4 and 7 you are limited in the depth of the layout.  I would suggest no more than 2 feet. 

I would set the height at no more than 30 inches so the youngest can see and operated trains without needing a stool.

You need to have two mainlines (i.e., to kids) that will be operated (read that as race) trains independently,  

Add sidings and passing tracks along the inside edge for operating accessories.  They will need to be in easy reach of the youngest.

Any manual switch will also need to be within reach.

Keep scenery to a minimum.  It will just get in they way.  A few Plastiville buildings with a farm and a road with cars would good.

In a few years you'll be building a new layout with a pair of older kids.  From age 6 to 18 we had 6 different or "enhanced" layouts.  The first was 9' by 5', and the last was 16' by 11'.  Aren't full basements wonderful?

Jan

ASYMAIR95,

You are moving right along - so, here it is - I was going to suggest a table build style borrowing elements from L-Girder construction.

Use pylons for wall supports and L-girders without joists for mounting the deck. This keeps everything open under the table, permits standing right up to the edge, and provides a thin edge for perhaps a hardboard or Masonite fascia.

I'll attach some photos of some examples of the elements below. I would have sent this stuff to you if you had an email in your profile.

Notice the spacer board on the wall to match the thickness of the baseboard that provides and even mounting surface.

The width of the L-girders only has to get within about 10" of the end of 3/4" deck material. Therefore the table width determines the length of the top rail.

The deck material is fastened from the bottom through the top of the L-girder. Drill a hole beforehand. Then, the top surface is smooth.

Pull the wire runs before installing the decking. Sounds like you've intended on doing that.

What do you think about this style? 

mlaughlinnyc posted:

Here’s an idea for a layout that would give the maximum length of around the wall run with an allowance for the swing of the door.  The area behind the door could be for stub sidings.  I’m assuming a centered three foot door opening.

 I made a few assumptions about distance constraints.  I’m 5-10, and my greatest reach to set a train back on the track is about 33 inches,  given  a three foot high table.  That means a 3’ wide table. 

The sketch is based on  a continuous outside loop with a drawbridge or lift out section at the door.  It might be easier to have it be a hinged drop-down.  The two inner tracks could continue across the doorway on a 15 to 20 inch wide bridge. 

 Alternatively, the two inner tracks could converge with the outer track to cross the bridge, but then when running three trains, you’d need some traffic  control.  Of course that wouldn’t work if you want to start three trains and let them run.

 Did  I saw you mention that most of your equipment could run on  O-27 ?  With O-31 on the outer loop and O-27 on the inner, there are a lot of options to cross the doorway. 

 You didn’t say whether you must have a way to reverse trains.  There would be room for two loops at the window end of the room.

 The upper left hand corner shows space for a coal elevator and log loader.  You would have to close the door for access there.

 If you want to pursue the idea of a bridge across the doorway, I’d be glad to sketch a few specific possibilities and give you some rough specs for a drop-down section.

 Now I’m asking myself why am I doing this.  I think it’s because I enjoy working out layout problems but don’t have the room to build what I design.  I’ve designed much of the track layout on a famous HO model railroad club but don’t have the skills for actually building the track.  So I’m glad to do anything I can to help with  design .

 Malcolm Laughlin

Malcolm,

I like this design with branch lines and a mainline. He is going more the for '50's style and running his family trains. A difference with O gauge operators is that many prefer display type to operational running, meaning that multiple trains can run simultaneously unattended.

Here is Asymair95's room. The grid is 6". I am assuming a 30" door.

He will be running an O31 loop and an O27 track loop.

See what comes to mind. We'll see what he has for inventory and switches. Out and back with an r-loop at each side near the door, a continuous loop, ?

perhaps a few spurs for a yard to park some engines with kill switches. Conventional transformer controlled operation.

Was going to get going on the construction today, but I have a kid home from school today with the stomach bug...up vomiting all night long, fun.

Moonman, that benchwork is beautiful, but I’m not crazy about the idea of putting holes in the wall like that. I was thinking of just doing a simple table type with a rectangle frame, and 2x4 legs with everything screwed together for easy disassembly if the need arises.

Jan, my kids will be supervised at all times when operating the layout. These trains are family heirlooms and my kids are...less than gentle with their toys. I guess they are typical little boys.

Asymair95 posted:

Was going to get going on the construction today, but I have a kid home from school today with the stomach bug...up vomiting all night long, fun.

Moonman, that benchwork is beautiful, but I’m not crazy about the idea of putting holes in the wall like that. I was thinking of just doing a simple table type with a rectangle frame, and 2x4 legs with everything screwed together for easy disassembly if the need arises.

Jan, my kids will be supervised at all times when operating the layout. These trains are family heirlooms and my kids are...less than gentle with their toys. I guess they are typical little boys.

I get the grandkids when that happens.

The holes are no big deal - you just did a kitchen. The pylons can be 8' apart.

Cut a bunch of pieces and assemble them. Deck screws and drill and screw gun. They dissemble just as easily. A screw gun and a sawzall can do a lot of work quickly when it's demolition time.

The big advantage is the open area with no legs underneath.

It's your Benchwork, do it as you please. Just putting it out there.

Help your child feel better, trains tables are a low priority. That was not a fun night.

For kill switches, you can use 364C switches, but they're expensive - $6 to 10 each.  I find that about one of three does not work.  My preference is for an old fashinoned knife switch, but I don't care what it looks liek as long as it operates well.

For power control on sidings try these mini toggle switches. momentary buttons are for uncouplers.

Available on Ebay, cheap and simple, the leads make for easy wiring.  I run all conventional and use them to shut power to blocks and sidings. They are very reliable.

Thank you for the tips guys. 

Mlaughlin, I believe I have one of those switches. I also have a few Lionel push button types.

Rsjb, that is a nice layout you have there. No toggles for me on the switches, I have the original switch boxes with lights in them for my 1121 switches. I might use a toggle like that for lighting though. I would like some lights for night ops. I really like your control panel, very neat looking.

That's my kind of railroad - all track and trains, never mind the scenery.  I'm for modeling the railroad to the edge of the roadbed.

  From childhood experience, I have to say 42" on height is way too high for kids. That's a adults layouts height, likely a tall one too... imo anyhow. The repercussions will be a need for stools to stand on, and a box of Band-Aids for when they fall off the stools, which in thier excitement WILL happen, more than once or twice too. 

  My elders were always one step ahead of the game.Though the cast train was waiting for me to be born, Gramps also purposly bought me some cheap Scouts for me to destroy when unattended, so I felt the loss of a broken toy and learned to mind my things better. Cast steamers with spur gears vs worms were also chosen because I couldn't do much harm to them; the back up   Only one of his Grandkids got a really nice FM diesel when young "the most careful one" (a girl , who still likes her trains; but she never did get "GG-1 certified" by Gramps. An aunt and I were the only ones he trusted running GG-1s ) 

  I was also included in every build and repair I'd sit still for; which was a lot. The interest was used as a regular incentive to "act right" too. Encouraged behaviors and personal goals reached, often got me some new unannounced "freedom" on Gramps layout, maybe a surprise of a new car or accessory, etc.

  Transformer breakers were tested often and I was shown red hot wires and meltdowns too, so I understood the danger of neglecting a short pretty well. Once you get that first stove blister, you tend to be more careful with "hot"   

  By about second grade I was phasing transformers with phone help and could pretty much do as I pleased with them all. Not all kids mature that soon, but the point is; don't underestimate them. If they do consistantly show the ability to be careful, act "right", and make good choices in general, you should reward it, and toy trains privileges can be an excellent motivation.

mlaughlinnyc posted:

That's my kind of railroad - all track and trains, never mind the scenery. I'm for modeling the railroad to the edge of the roadbed.

I'm in favor of that right-up-front track system, too, but I have managed to squeeze in a little bit of scenery, as well, just to add to the moment when the trains are nearing or passing by, right at the edge. I wanted guests and myself as close to the trains as possible.

..reach-in and touch them close...

FrankM, MoonTownship, USA

Wow...that is amazing! Beautiful.

  I model to the edge too, but if I were to have kids running regularly, to stop dives from accidental or careless highspeed rollovers, I'd have a good sized space at the curves bordering the edges, or put a decent guard rail up.

Leaving some space of a few inches away on any portion facing you allows you to lean over to grab this or that while a train is still running. Too close, and the train will likely clip your body as it passes..... unless maybe your real skinny and shirtless  

Reaching over without leaning is very uncomfortable; an unatural postion.

Asymair95 posted:

Wow...that is amazing! Beautiful.

Thank You, very much!

A little trick I use when running the 10 trains (using TMCC) and one trolley is that when a train, steam locomotive or diesel, approaches where a person, adult or child, is standing, usually looking and gesturing, I sound the horns long and steady, warning of their approach, as well as adding a little 'theater" to the moment. Everybody gets the message. I have not had a single locomotive or car knocked off its tracks, not even bumped, since the first layout of 1995.

I will, however, at times, stop a train right in front of a guest if it seems  they'd like to give it a touch or a little caress, which has sometimes been the case. I liked everything right up front and available, to scrutiny and touch, as much as possible.

FrankM

P.S. I want the layout to give people joy. I am not touch-me-not about the layout or its trains at all. I like the smiles the best. Beyond that, I do not spend energy worrying about accidents.