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Hi, So I decided today is a good day to hang my GS Shelves that I bought a few months ago.

I'm so frustrated with what I hoped would be a fun easy project.

I need to connect two pieces of shelving for both wall installations - one run is 12' the other is 8'. About  7 shelves per wall.

Am I the only one who can't figure out an easy way to spread the holes on the joiners provided? I have tried a punch and hammer only to get the joiner stuck on the punch and then break off when I tried to get it off the punch with a lockjaw plyers. Then I tried to put the punch in the little slit instead of the hole to try and open them up that way. Arggggghhhhh. 30 minutes later and I had to walk away.

Anyone tell me what the bleep I am doing wrong? 

While I'm here, might as well ask how great a distance between shelves is needed to place a post war GG1 with the pantagraphs up? What spacing do you use?

Paul - I really just needed something easy to accomplish - Licata20200418_14495620200418_14500320200418_145046

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I can no longer take or post current photos. Maybe my 1997 solution for a effective shelf connection will provide one method.

Look right under the drivers of Mikado 4815 (above) and you will see two small machine screws holding a short two-hole mending plate--look carefully and you can also see the plate . There is also a plate lying down in the channel on top which does not interfere with the drivers.

I gave up on using the connectors and went to Lowe's for the little mending plates and screws. I simply drilled holes in the shelf to match the mending plate holes and made the connection . I didn't need a plate at the rear of the joint since the wall connection ensured alignment. Makes a secure perfect alignment.

On an uneven studded drywall I used fender washers (Lowe's) to shim the shelf in wall "valleys" to enable tightening screws which avoided hump and a wavy shelf.

 

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Last edited by Dewey Trogdon

I have the GS shelves and like them a lot. Mine are 18' long (3 - 6' lengths). I have no problems fastening them together. I use a flat blade screwdriver and hold the pin vertical and just tap the screwdriver into the slot a few times. Simple to do. Then I tap the pins on the rail and attach the next piece. 

It helps if you have a helper. While I align the pins, my wife taps the next shelf in with a wood block and hammer. I built the walls myself so I know my studs are 16" on centers and the wall is plumb. No need for washers if the wall is straight. 

It took us around 2 hours to install all the shelves. I have a section of my layout running around the walls so I had to keep that in mind when I spaced everything out.

Donald

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Railrunnin,  I use a small screw drive and tap it in first one end and then reverse and do the other end then tap it on the the shelf and connect the two together.  they will mate right up and you will not even notice the seam.  I had to use washers to shim the valleys behind the shelf otherwise they will warp on you.  I spaced mine 5 3/4" apart.  I cut 2 2x3's at 5 1/2" use used those for spacers.  Start from the bottom and work your way up.  If the bottom course is straight all of the others will be straight and even also.

Sometimes you will need to loosen a screw to prevent warping.  That's OK.  I have tons of this stuff and would not consider using any thing else.

Like others responding to this thread, I tried to "open" the joiners, but gave up the task for fear of breaking the joiners.  I installed three 9-foot (6+3) GS shelves along a brick wall of my train room. The brick mortar joints in rows provided the correct vertical spacing. The slightly irregular surface of the bricks created a bit of a "jog" where two shelf pieces fit together, but IMHO it's a minor flaw.

Mike Mottler    LCCA 12394

I bought better quality shelving (Trainshelf) and all I have to do is put a pin into a slot that is already in the extruded shelf.  I don't recall how I spaced the shelves, other than measuring what clearance I needed between the shelves and the top of the train on the shelf below.  Then I used a level.  

My advice for attaching the shelves to the wall is to go to a home improvement store and buy screws used to attach metal siding to a pole building.  They have a hex head on them, so you can use a socket to drive them in without stripping the screws and rubber grommets on them to snug the shelves up nicely.  

Here is a typical joint

The upper set of shelves runs 36 feet in length and the bottom ones must run 28 feet in length.  

NWL

Last edited by Nation Wide Lines
gunrunnerjohn posted:

My problem is the "better quality" shelves were also twice the price!   Also, they're not in business any longer.

I have found that one gets the quality that they pay for, so one has to weigh price versus quality.  

However, that being said, I bought c. 1,000 feet of used shelving for about half the price that the Glen Snyder shelving sells for new and simply had to repaint some of the older brown shelving so it was white (as the white shelving looked better than the brown shelving). 

I did recently buy 40 sections of new Trainshelf at York last fall, as I needed some additional shelving and he was doing 1 last run after York last fall.  I could have bought some used Glen Snyder shelving, before I ordered the Trainshelf last fall, but after looking at the style and quality, I decided I wanted shelving that would match the stuff I had.

NWL

Last edited by Nation Wide Lines

Actual Dick and Carol, Trainshelf,  were not able to sell the business.  They were awaiting delivery of a new order of shelves from the anodizer.  I have spoken with them at last October's York about my interest in their shelves.  Dick called me about a month ago to reconfirm my interest.  That was prior to the "lock down".  I'm waiting for an update from them.

Jan

I have 30 of their 6 foot shelves and had NO problem hanging or connecting them. Eric's Trains made a video, which is on their website Episode 42 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvqTGwLqOeI), showing how to spread the pins and hang them. As for quality I have no complaints. Unfortunately most of us think we know and refuse to look at the instructions. I actually hung my shelves then put the pins on. I then used a block of wood on the end of the section I am adding and tapped it on. NO PROBLEMS !

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