Hello MAILMAN-I am sure if you explain the problem-post some clear pics the guys on here will be happy to help you with this. Good luck. Nick

                                                                                                                             

Attached you will find the manual - that should help you determine if they are working properly - check the hook-up - eliminate the controller and jumper the posts temporarily with a wire to check switch operation - check with power jumpered to the rails and through the AUX post and outside rail jumpered. 

Try some different search terms using the forum search tool and you will find discussions about them - 

Carl

Arctic Railroad

Attachments

I have a dozen of the O-27 ones, if that's what you have (versus full 'O', which I know they also come in).

The common problem that I have had maybe 6 times now is a problem caused by a worn (the nub wore down) or defective limit switch.  I have NOT been able to find a source for replacements though.

For me, all but one I fixed the same way: the little arm on top was not depressing the limit switch plunger enough for the electronics to realize that the switch had been switched, even though it was.

Gunrunnerjohn actually jumped into my thread here, many years ago now, with a suggestion on how to fix the issue with JB Weld.  I tried that but it didn't work FOR ME.  Might for you.

What has worked for me on each one is to wrap a thin strip of tape around the arm on top at the correct spot.  what happened in my case is that little nub on the end of the arm wore down and the 'brown part' that swings to depress it was not able to depress the plunger enough.

PICT0009_FPICT0121_F

Here are some comments from those early on threads that I saved - you may find them useful:

FIXING THE MICRO SWITCH – A REPLACEMENT PARTThe mirco switch is identical to the one is Lionel’s Fastrac switches. I was sent one in November, 2012 as a test. It was a perfect replacement.   The Lionel part number is 610-2045-351. It might be called a ‘cherry switch’ on their site.

COMMENTS FROM OGR FORUM

(my comment on one of the threads): DO you see that little 'nub' on the end of the 'arm' - that's what is wearing away on mine.  On the 3 that went bad that 'nub' no longer is there.  I compared it to a good switch and the good ones have the 'nub'.

 - walt

(reply)

JB-Weld is your friend if the nub is gone.  Just build a new one with it, great stuff!

Another:

Walt,

That inside K-Line motor picture and mechanical layout looks exactly the same as inside a Z Stuff actuator for Ross turnouts!  In fact, the circuitry of K-Line and Z Stuff appear identical when I traced them out several years ago.  Not to start a thread flame war here, but wonder who "borrowed" what technology from whom???

 

Attachments

Photos (2)

The switches do not have a number on them except o27. I purchased two RH switches online. One came in the a blue box and the other in a red box? Blue box K-O276(?) and red box K-O376 (?) Both have the bulb lights not the LEDs. I am trying to run them with fixed track voltage with my Lionchief loco. One buzzes when I throw it to "out" and the other non-de rail fails. I like them because with no power connected they keep the Lionchief on tracks better than Lionel switches like the #5168. I followed the wiring diagram that came with them and wired the same way as another K-Line 276 on the same loop that works fine. Thank you for your interest and maybe help?

Moonman posted:

Attached you will find the manual - that should help you determine if they are working properly - check the hook-up - eliminate the controller and jumper the posts temporarily with a wire to check switch operation - check with power jumpered to the rails and through the AUX post and outside rail jumpered. 

Try some different search terms using the forum search tool and you will find discussions about them - 

Mailmansteve posted:

The switches do not have a number on them except o27. I purchased two RH switches online. One came in the a blue box and the other in a red box? Blue box K-O276(?) and red box K-O376 (?) Both have the bulb lights not the LEDs. I am trying to run them with fixed track voltage with my Lionchief loco. One buzzes when I throw it to "out" and the other non-de rail fails. I like them because with no power connected they keep the Lionchief on tracks better than Lionel switches like the #5168. I followed the wiring diagram that came with them and wired the same way as another K-Line 276 on the same loop that works fine. Thank you for your interest and maybe help?

 

Mailmansteve posted:
Moonman posted:

Attached you will find the manual - that should help you determine if they are working properly - check the hook-up - eliminate the controller and jumper the posts temporarily with a wire to check switch operation - check with power jumpered to the rails and through the AUX post and outside rail jumpered. 

Try some different search terms using the forum search tool and you will find discussions about them - 

Mailmansteve posted:

The switches do not have a number on them except o27. I purchased two RH switches online. One came in the a blue box and the other in a red box? Blue box K-O276(?) and red box K-O376 (?) Both have the bulb lights not the LEDs. I am trying to run them with fixed track voltage with my Lionchief loco. One buzzes when I throw it to "out" and the other non-de rail fails. I like them because with no power connected they keep the Lionchief on tracks better than Lionel switches like the #5168. I followed the wiring diagram that came with them and wired the same way as another K-Line 276 on the same loop that works fine. Thank you for your interest and maybe help?

 

My first question is which transformer are you using for track power? The LionChief DC power pack will not power the switches properly.

Secondly, the switches will be overpowered with 18volts of constant track power for LionChief operation. If I recall, the manual recommends 10-12 volts AC.

Try setting the track voltage at 14 volts to compromise between engine needs and not overpower the switches.

Have you confirmed the correct location of the isolation pins for the non-derail trigger rails on the switch causing that problem?

Carl

Arctic Railroad

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