HO Shelf Switching Layout

I would recommend a cheap DC power pack/controller. I would recommend manual switches, and use Caboose Industries ground throws to switch the points. As for couplers, I would recommend Kadee couplers and a wooden skewer inserted from the top to uncouple them (I don't recommend the under-the-track magnets because they take a bit of work to set up the couplers for proper, reliable operation).

99.99% of HO uses Kadee couplers or clones.

The best way to describe how HO couplers work is with the Kadee Handout.  These couplers uses a magnet (or an electro-magnet) either between the ties or under the ties.  As mentioned, a skewer or small blade screwdriver can also be used for manual uncoupling.

I think MTH offered the only HO electro-coupler mounted on the locomotives.

Rusty

Warning: Once you use Kadee couplers (or clones), you will find O scale couplers disappointing.  DCC is overkill for a switching puzzle.  I would avoid old cheap toy HO transformers as they are generally too touchy for switching.  Try to find one built in the last 20 years.  MRC makes good DC transformers.  New ones can be had for $40.

Brendan

@Brendan posted:

Warning: Once you use Kadee couplers (or clones), you will find O scale couplers disappointing.  DCC is overkill for a switching puzzle.  I would avoid old cheap toy HO transformers as they are generally too touchy for switching.  Try to find one built in the last 20 years.  MRC makes good DC transformers.  New ones can be had for $40.

Brendan

Thanks for the reply Brendan. I found a reasonably priced NIB MRC Tech 2 transformer and a gently used Great Northern Atlas RS3 w/ Kadee's at the not-so-local train store, just have to wait for shipping now. As for the couplers, I'm used to everything from Marx autocouplers from 1936 to the tab and slot and pickle fork couplers. I'm already disappointed 😅  Lobster claws aren't that bad.

@BenLMaggi posted:

I would recommend a cheap DC power pack/controller. I would recommend manual switches, and use Caboose Industries ground throws to switch the points. As for couplers, I would recommend Kadee couplers and a wooden skewer inserted from the top to uncouple them (I don't recommend the under-the-track magnets because they take a bit of work to set up the couplers for proper, reliable operation).

Ben- Thanks for the reply - the Caboose Industries ground throws are advertised as $50cad per each, I think I'll just wire up the snap motors if using Atlas Code 80 track. I'll have to slip into a hobby shop somewhere to find some.

I don't understand your last response. I can purchase a caboose industries ground throw for $4 each in American money. If they are $50 each (Canadian) you are getting ripped off. That being said, anything simple (even a wire bent up... look online for simple mechanical methods) will work. Or, use a slide switch connected to the track switch by some wire.

Good luck!

@BenLMaggi posted:

I don't understand your last response. I can purchase a caboose industries ground throw for $4 each in American money. If they are $50 each (Canadian) you are getting ripped off. That being said, anything simple (even a wire bent up... look online for simple mechanical methods) will work. Or, use a slide switch connected to the track switch by some wire.

Good luck!

I just checked another website and I may have been mistaken or it may have been for a 10 pack or something. Maybe I'll do that with the ground throws. Neat stuff.

Tom,

What kind of track are you using?

When I had my N and HO Scale Inglenook Sidings, I used Kato Unitrack with the built in magnet uncoupler.  Otherwise just use Atlas, Peco, etc and place an aftermarket magnet on the parts of the 3 forks in the track that you want the cars to uncouple.  The way it works is that you slow the consist down once the 2 coupled cars that you want to separate the load at is over the magnet.  With the consist stationary, slowly pull the consist out of the siding (back in the direction that you came from) and the magnet will open the couplers and separate the cars.  You then have the locomotive pull the rest of the consist away and off you go.  No buttons to push or lever to pull like in O gauge.

Regards...

Just posting preliminary layout design - this'll be on a shelf at near eye-level so building flats are a-ok.

Tom

I'm gonna second Kevin's suggestion regarding Kato Unitrack. Bullet proof, very easy to work with and typical Kato quality.

Mark in Oregon

I like the track plan. Looks like it would be fun. Makes me want to build something similar.

Hi Tom, I operate a shelf layout in HO. It was based on a track plan in an old Model Railroad, and it’s a fun switching layout. It’s two levels, with a small “yard” on bottom left, and four industries on the upper. I use Caboose Industry’s ground throws on the lower level, and Atlas with under layout machines on the upper. It’s powered by a MRC power pack with their walk-around throttle. Here’s some photos. It’s1x 8’.

Stopped by a train store in Edmonton, hole in the wall kinda place. I picked up a few sticks of Peco flex track and some switches. The guy also had some Caboose Industries ground throws, little track joiners and some wheel stops. I was able to find an old MRC Tech 2 BNIB for not much, so I'm pretty much ready to start laying track.

Thanks for the responses 'what to dos' and the pics from everyone, I'll update this space for my 'build' of the layout.

Another fun winter project while building the big O one.

Tom, a few more shots, and a rough drawing of my track plan. The yard on the left holds about three cars on each track, but usually only four unless I want to complicate the switching by working around a caboose or other cars.

Artie,

Very nice and very realistic looking.

Tom

Thanks, Tom! As I got older, I had to go bigger!

I had a (relatively) small 11 x 4 O-gauge layout based loosely on John Allen's Timesaver.

Good luck!

Tom

Hey, last set of days off I went to a train store and grabbed three sticks of Peco 100 flex track and a half dozen switches to go with. The razor saw I ordered showed up on Wednesday so I got to it y'day. After cutting everything up and laying it out on some leftover foam board from my soon-to-be recycled 4x8, I realized it could be half as wide as it was so that happened. Then I painted it and soldered drops to all the track. Today I wired it and soldered up the rail joiners. I know it might be overkill with all the drops but I didn't want the flex track to come apart. Using a previous project's DC motor controller, 12v wall wart and DPDT switch, the locomotive goes to every bit of track and I should be able to fit that transformer into a piece of scenery. Small win.

Next I'm going to build a frame for it. None of the rails have been secured yet so it's all still a little wiggly.

Lookin' good.

Tom

Cleaning out my basement i found a tube of 13 ho freight cars with metal wheels and kadee couplers.  Also found a 44ton loco.  Probably bought these at an estate sale.  Also found some atlas turnouts.  A quick trip to the LHS for some flex track and a slightly stretched and improved version of the Gum Stump and Snowshoe is taking shape.  This will be  dc only layout, turnouts will be manual.  I am going to experiment with using a battery and a dpdt switch for control.  The thought is limiting speed to a scale 10 mph will enhance the operation.  Layout right now is 1 ft x 7 feet.  It may get a cassette on one end for staging.   Once the raw upper level has some track ill post some pics for comments.

Managed to figure out the base without too much issue, recycling parts of my 4x8 train table's ¼" plywood. Just more screwing and gluing.

For the control, I drilled a pair of holes pretty well in the middle and chisled them out to put in the switch and the knob for controls. The DPDT is wired to Left-off-Right for direction and my KNOB is 0-12v which is plenty for a switcher to trundle along. It's fun, just need to scenery now and a few more cars to shuffle around! I tried to fill in the spaces in the ties, just have to paint the wooden ones I made.