The one on my D throttle seems to be stuck in the "on" position.  The one on the D throttle works fine.  Tried a couple different zener diodes on the D throttle, same results, ergo I deduce the whistle switch has decided to pack it in.  

Any suggestions what to look for as I dive into the little indefinite? 

Thanks!

Mitch

It's crackers to give a rozzer the dropsy in snide!

 

Remember, SCROUNGE!

Last edited by M. Mitchell Marmel
Original Post

Helpful hint of the day:

When testing a whistle button using postwar whistle tenders, make sure they're upright or upside-down.  If they're on their side, the whistle relay might connect and blow the whistle constantly.   Electronic horns, of course, do not have this problem. 

Pardon me while I go put on a dunce cap and join the Amalgamated Association of Morons, Local 6 7/8.

"WE ARE MORONS, TRIED AND TRUE!  WE WILL DO OUR CALL FOR YOU!  NYEHHHHH!"   

Mitch 

It's crackers to give a rozzer the dropsy in snide!

 

Remember, SCROUNGE!

At least the zener diode fit nicely in the hole where the old rectifier disk used to live.  And, it's working like a champ!  I'll probably update the A throttle at some point. 

Am leaving this thread up, if for no other reason than to act as a warning to others.  Learn from my mistakes!   

Mitch

AAM 6 7/8

It's crackers to give a rozzer the dropsy in snide!

 

Remember, SCROUNGE!

Last edited by M. Mitchell Marmel

That is a hoot!

 

Hokie 71

Chief of Operations, Free Union, Blacksburg, and Albemarle Railroad (FUBAR)

hokie71 posted:

That is a hoot!

More of a whooooo...  

I got my first inkling that my basic concept was wrong when the **** whistle kept blowing even with no diode whatsoever in the circuit...  ;-) 

Mitch 

It's crackers to give a rozzer the dropsy in snide!

 

Remember, SCROUNGE!

Hey Mitch, glad you solved the problem. Another characteristic of the whistle switch on a ZW, if you try the whistle with the case removed the whistle will start to blow and then shut off as you push the whistle lever forward. What happens is the contacts override each other. When you put the case on, the slot in the case prevents the whistle switch from going to the extreme forward position thus illuminating the problem.

How is your large herd of giraffes doing? Have a great day, Jim

O Gauge Jim posted:

Hey Mitch, glad you solved the problem. Another characteristic of the whistle switch on a ZW, if you try the whistle with the case removed the whistle will start to blow and then shut off as you push the whistle lever forward. What happens is the contacts override each other. When you put the case on, the slot in the case prevents the whistle switch from going to the extreme forward position thus illuminating the problem.

So I noticed!  

How is your large herd of giraffes doing? Have a great day, Jim

All tuned up and ready for Saturday's train show!   

Mitch 

It's crackers to give a rozzer the dropsy in snide!

 

Remember, SCROUNGE!

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