How to control bridge with ASC/AMC?

You really need remote switching. The rest is handled internally by the control board.

 

The new BPC2 or an SC-2 would let you do that. One set of terminals for up, one set for down. Split the common to go to each.

Configured as ACC#, position 1 is up, position 2 is down.

 

Select the device ACC 1, then aux1 until it gets to the top, then aux2 to stop it.

Next ACC 2, aux1 to lower it, aux 2 to stop when it reaches the bottom.

 

You would be using the relays in the device as the on off switch.

 

I don't use the other alphabet soup devices because of the cabling. I really like the SC-2, because it's controlled wirelessly, and you can configure the relays for a combination of momentary and on\off operation. The old BPC's were a pain, the newbies aren't here yet and the SC-2 may be hard to find.

 

I'll let others chime in on the other devices.

 

 

Thanks for your comments.

 

I already have the ASC so I just want to figure out how to control the bridge.

 

I opened up the controller that came with the bridge. It is labeled "Automatic Switch Controller". It appears as if the center connection inside the controller is "common".

 

There are two heavy copper strips with each of the other wires connected them. My guess is when you make contact via the lever that you complete the circuit and make the bridge go either up or down depending which way you press the lever.

 

There are three terminals on the front of the bridge where the controller gets connected and two on the back to supply power. The center wire of the controller is connected to the middle terminal (I suspect this is the common) and the other two wires are connected one to the right terminal and the other to the left terminal.

 

I would power the bridge independently with my K-Line accessory transformer.

 

So, I could simply wire it up just like the controller that came with the bridge. I currently control power to my yard tracks by using the ASC ACC 9-12. I could use two of the remaining terminals as ACC 13-14 connecting the COMM to the center terminal on the front of the bridge and the wire from #12 to the right terminal and #13 to the left terminal. By addressing the respective ACC and then pressing the AUX1 button on the CAB1L to raise or lower the bridge.

 

Does this make sense?

Yes. Does Aux 2 turn off the terminal? That's like releasing the lever. You have to manually stop it with a new command.

ACC12 aux1, bridge goes up, aux2 turns off motor at top or desired height.

 

ACC13, aux1, bridge goes down, aux 2 turns of motor at the bottom.

 

You'll just need to make a "Y" for the Common to connect to #12 & #13 common.

 

That should do it.

OK, checked it out.

 

My ASC is programmed for ACC 9 through 16. There are two commons on the ASC one for the first four terminals and one for the remaining four terminals.

 

ACC9-12 turn power onto my four yard tracks and the COMM for the first four terminals is connected to one of my TPC's.

 

I used ACC terminals 13 and 14 along with the other COMM to connect to the lift bridge. A wire was connected from the COMM terminal on the ASC to the center terminal on the bridge. ACC 13-14 were connected to the right and left terminals.

 

Addressing  ACC 13 and holding down the AUX1 button raises the bridge and addressing ACC 14 and holding down the AUX1 button lowers the bridge. AUX2 could be used but you need to press it again to stop the operation.

 

Either way it works.

 

Very cool! Remote bridge control!

So, for future reference, it moves with the ASC terminal in ACC mode by holding the button, Aux 1. Then it stops movement when you release the button. Yes?

 

The holding could cause button wear. Might want to try Aux2 and see if you can get used to it. One press to go, one to stop. No constant pressure.

 

Have fun with bridge. Now you have one less controller cluttering things up.

Yes, You can use AUX2 to raise and lower the bridge you just need to press AUX2 again to stop the movement. The ASC when programmed in accessory mode acts like a remote on/off switch.

 

I may also be able to use one of the remaining terminals to turn power on and off to the bridge. I'll checked that out once I install it on my layout.

 

I need to remove a section of track between a switch coming off the outside main line and the track going into my four way yard switch and make some electrical connection changes. I'm going to lose about 5 inches of the yard but that's OK.

I don't think that you can cut power to the bridge. I think it supplies the bridge track and removes power to that track when lifted.

 

It will be a nice addition to the layout.

Not the same bridge but a similar question. I am using an SC-2 to control a pre war bascule bridge. I am only using terminals 1, 2 and 3.
Aux 1 provides the initial momentary contact to 2 and 3 to start the lift cycle.
Aux 2 toggles power to terminal  3 so that I can stop the bridge anywhere in the cycle.
Usually at the top.

It runs fine around 13 1/2 Volts.
I replaced the incandescent bulb with a prewired red flashing  SuperBrite LED set up for 12 V DC. Using a homemade bridge rectifier  drops the voltage just enough.
The original lamp was wired to terminal 2. This was a later Lionel modification which only turn the light on when the bridge is moving
Originally the lamp was always on. The early version also run a complete cycle from down to full height and then back down and shut off. Not prototypical if I ship was trying to pass. Everything works fine except the LED shuts off at full height when power is disconnected. I don't have any ideas on how to simply and cheaply modify this.
The bridge was originally a basket case that I rebuilt and also weathered to a nice rusty patina with an aged concrete counterweight.

Ideas that I have considered include.
Separate circuit with mercury switch (hard to come by).
Separate circuit with reed switch and 12 Vdc relay normally closed.
A separate circuit with a limit switch and a 12 VDC relay  normally closed.
Additional circuit with 12 V DC relay  normally closed with rectified AC from the power supply to the bridge.
All thoughts, comments and ideas with sketches or wiring diagram greatly appreciated.
Thanks
FMH

I'm not familiar with the SC2. I have always used the Lionel/IC Controls products. However, the SC2 is capable of controlling up to 12 accessories.

 

It would seem to me that if you have not used up all your terminals why not connect the LED to one of those terminals and just toggle it on and off.

Here is the wiring diagram as it appears in Toy Train Repair Made Easy:

 

Note:  This diagram shows the lamp lead connected to binding post 2.  This will cause the lamp to light only while the bridge is in motion.  Lionel originally connected the lead to post 5 so that the lamp is always lit.

Use 2 locations on the SC-2. Use one to turn the bridge power on and off which which would be terminals 1 and 3. Bridge voltage in and common.

 

Connect the lamps to 1 and 3. You'll have to go in and change this.

 

Then use the second position to operate the motor, terminals 2 & 3, like you are currently doing.

 

The when you power the Accessory voltage on, the lamps will stay lit. The lift operation will be separate.

 

I think that makes sense. I kept looking at the diagram. What do you think?

 

Connecting to terminal two turns on the flashing light as the bridge raises and lowers.
Connecting to terminal three the light would be on flashing always like the original Lionell wiring. Both methods shuts the light off when the bridge is at full height because that's the only way to stop the bridge using the method I am using now.
So while both ideas would work, neither automates having the light flashing as the bridge raises, when is stopped at full height, and when it lowers.

Bridging two and three does not power the motor. It is a momentary switch that moves the motor just enough for the  cam switch that powers the motor to engage. Motor than cycles full up and then full down and shuts off.
Normally the flashing light is only on when the bridge is going up should be on the bridges stopped at the top for whatever length of time for any boats to pass and also on the way down then shuts off.

For prototypical functioning there needs to be some type of sensor to turn the light off only when the bridge is down.

Another method that I may look into it is a normally closed cherry switch. It wouldn't work the reverse of a chuff switch. It would work like a refrigerator door.
The weight of the bridge was shut the light off.
But the more I think about it it's not really that much different than a limit switch.

But, that was my point. Connecting the light between 1 & 3 then turning of bridge power when lifting is not needed would turn the light off. Not momentary, on\off for bridge power instead of constant power.

 

I am sure you can come with some more gadgets, but why, when you can just toggle the bridge power and move a wire or two?

 

Do you have it constantly powered now? Does it have a control house light like the '98 version?

This is a pre-war AC motor. Nothing like the 1998 DC motor version.
That version stops anywhere.
The prewar version goes up and down in one continuos cycle.
The only way to stop it at the top is to kill the power to 1 and 3 which  shuts off the flashing light.  I am trying to get it to function so that the warning flasher is on whenever the bridge is in any position other than fully down.  I am not using terminals 4 and five which kill power to 4 tracks sections on either side of the bridge.
I am running TMCC and that would shut down my engines. Not very realistic.
I want it to operate similar but opposite  to a flashing crossing gate.