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I am interested in taking a set of new LTC passenger cars apart to paint 'em a different color.

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Having no idea how to open and disassemble them, I figured that this is the place to ask.  I want to keep the roofs blue and reverse the orange and cream colors.

I have the MTHRRC LTC loco and annual freight car set, but I'd like to pair a matching passenger set to the loco.

Do they come apart in a way that I could paint and re-assemble without doing damage to the parts (tabs?) that hold 'em together?

Plan B: is there someone who does this stuff for a fee?

Suggestions and/or thoughts appreciated!

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Bending tabs is always a risk. It was suggested to me that a soldering iron used carefully to anneal the tab would help it from breaking. Makes sense, but I havent done it. Not hot enough to burn off paint, but just enough to soften the metal graining for a bend.  I also don't know how well modern paint will do under heat either.

Good masking might negate a full disassembly too

I too am new. I figured I would practice on rather cheep things to get the hang of it first. I bought a lot of 5 484 cabooses. The big thing is to find the right length of tool to reach the tab you want to remove. Be it a needle nose pliers on the base or screw driver etc. For things on the side I have used a sharp knife with a thin edge. The sharp edge gets under the tab and the edge of the knife doesn't break. Also do small twist/prying, force things, slip and they will break. You will find the metal taps of windows/doors will bend/flex so I do not bend a full 90. I do it just enough so a piece of small wood (like a shaved skewer) will gently pry the piece away from the car from the out side. Once off the car you can gently 90 I have found with later tin that the kids painted their own kits so  some of the paint was wet when the part was applied so i am a little more careful till I see the part coming off smooth. (I had a pullman car that the roof wouldn't slide off) when it did you could see where paint possibly factory was thick and sealed it in. Make sure when masking etc. that you tape is not too good. Even painter tape will take old decals off. I have some old tape that did the trick and a tiny brush to touch up. Some decals are available but a complete set may cost more than you paid for some cars. 

On the 30's American flyer cars most of the tops are slid and popped on the top. If you gently put pressure on the very edge the roof slides/pop off. On items like Pullman cars there is a support bar in the middle pushing the edge of the body out securing the roof from coming off. Hope something here helps. Still got a lot to learn my self. 

My toy of the day is a nice paint turquoise lighted pullman car with the curly 1 year coupler.

My question of the day is when were the squat rose colored glass bulbs used. Does not looked painted. Found one today quite interesting. I put it in a long socket to test. It was in a late 30's caboose.  Thanks as always Gilbert Greg

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  Though very old, I'd think the mushroom/button globed bulb being red is for a signal or

crossing lamp, though being in a cabin car, red makes some sense in a way too.

   Any number stamped on the base or globe? Old bulb variety before major standardizing streamlined things is interesting. Id save the bulb for display or the right piece vs using just anywhere; track/car vibration won't increase its life either.

Last edited by Adriatic

   Blue mask tape is ok, but green low tack and/or pinstriping, or pinstripe mask tape for cleanest edges is the way to go imo.

  Dont rely on just color for tape, low tack statement is key, some blue is easier than others, some green is actually high tack and adding other tape masked up to thin width pinstripe is needed often as well.

  Pulling tape at the right time helps at well; semi set but not gooey is usually best

I don't have any MTH modern Lionel tin-plate but I do have a lot of prewar tinplate. To me the answer is to very slowly and gentle as possible, been the tabs up right. I get them as far as I can with a flat-head screw driver, then will finish straightening them with needle nose pliers ( sometimes this part is after they are apart to ensure easier putting back together. Also bending the tabs back down is best to do slowly and gentle also.

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