How to keep G scale track connected?

I’ve seen special/custom connectors. I’ve seen people use rubber bands around the ties. I’ve seen people use zip ties around the ties.

Steve

Split Jaw Rail Joiners is the way to go to ensure the rails stay together and ensure good electrical connections if rail powered. Pricey but they ensure good connections.

I've also soldered the metal rail connectors that used the smaller cap head screws to connect rails. That does require a good high heat soldering iron.

Ward H

Several methods. Rubber bands outside will degrade quickly, but black twist ties around the outer ties should work. Simple cheap solid-strand wire (something like 20 gauge or so) wrapped around the end tie on each piece of track would probably work too. For something more permanent, Split-Jaw clamps are probably the best.

You don't mention if your track has solid rail (like LGB, Aristocraft, USA Trains) or if it is hollow (old Bachmann plated track, old Lionel Track, etc). If it is hollow, I would not recommend using split jaw clamps as they might crush it. (Then again, I wouldn't recommend either of those brands of track for outdoor service anyway).

I appreciate all the info. It is LGB track and will be free floating. I saw the split jaw connectors, but wanted your opinions before I spent the money. Wire and wire twist ties are a great option also. Thank you,

Bob

LGB makes Track Clips, p/n 11500, which are sold in packs of 28.  They connect the end ties of two adjoining pieces of track.  Relatively inexpensive, easy to install.  Any LGB dealer should have or be able to order these for you.  FI, Walthers has them in stock.

KD

One other thing you might want to consider if you use split-jaw clamps. Some are designed to fit OVER existing rail joiners, and some REPLACE rail joiners. Both are good, but for switches you may want to consider using the ones that REPLACE rail joiners. That way, if a switch fails or you need to remove it for maintenance you don't need to tear up the adjoining tracks to get at it. Just remove the clamps and lift the switch out of the way.

Split jaw clamps, connecting rail to rail. Been in use on my garden railway for about a decade with no issues. Mark

Thank you for your responses.

Which split rail clamp do you recommend? Piko, LGB, or a rail clamp by Trainli which touts a superior product. I'll need about 100 so before I make a purchase online, I really appreciate any further insight and opinions.

Thanks,

Bob

I use bread ties, they work and stayed tied.

@Jim 1939 posted:

I use bread ties, they work and stayed tied.

How well do they work long-term? I would think that the plastic would break down exposing the thin steel wire inside to rot and corrode.

  Using Splitjaws since 2004.

Well Ben our bread ties have a paper wrap and I still use the same ones that I started with. It would only take 30 seconds to replace anyway. If you want long term, then use plastic wires ties.

I agree with those recommending Split Jaw rail clamps for outdoor use.  As well as keeping the tracks together they keep the rails in alignment which other methods connecting ties together will not do.

Split Jaw has two types of rail clamps. "Over the Rail Joiner" type made to fit over the thin metal rail joiners supplier by Aristo and others.   They are good for retrofitting poor joints. The other type are Rail Clamps. They replace the thin metal rail joiners and clamp directly on the track rails.

I've used the TrainLi style clamps. I don't think they hold the rails in alignment as well as the Split Jaw style.

Note: Trainz has 60 packs of the Split Jaws.

Thank you for all great info!!!

Bob

Well I'm not familiar with the term "free floating" but I guess that would mean a temporary/permanent setup such as a carpet or floor layout. Anyway this Christmas I used ty-wraps/Zipties ties to hold the track together around the tree on the carpet. They work great, the track has stayed tight and the electrical connections are good. Yes it's a pain to do, but once it's done, it's done. I'm happy with them.

I also use Split-jaw clamps.

"free floating" means floating on a layer of gravel to allow expansion due to weather and temp outside.

If track is fixed it might break or buckle.

Real train track also floats on stone rock ballast for the same reason.

Some people use "free floating" to cut down on noise echoing into the track baseboard.

Indoor layouts can use carpet as a sound barrier.

I have also used cable ties around the ties of adjoining track sections. They will hold up for a few years before needing replacement.

@Engineer-Joe posted:

I also use Split-jaw clamps.

Only way to go, American made 100 percent brass and will last for ever