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Allow me the indulgence, please, to share this newbie's satisfaction and pleasure over having taken apart a distressed whistle tender, repaired, cleaned, and lubricated it so that it is now a perfectly functioning beauty, all without knowing what the deuce I was doing! 

The seller was selling this 2046W tender for parts, since there was a lot wrong with it. I bought it as a learning tool.I freely admit that I know nothing about electronics more than changing a light switch, and had no experience repairing trains. I also lack many tools which might make repairs easier. So I will describe briefly what I encountered and what I did. It would be a kindness if you experts offer constructive criticism,  so that I may learn even more from the experience.

The first obvious problem was that the tender was profoundly filthy and obviously unused for decades. There were no wires connected to the contact rollers. When I took off the body, the remnants of both power wires were in bad shape, with insulation brittle and broken off in a dozen places or more. Inside the motor was grimed, as was the whistle and every  surface. All bare metal was rusted with old rust. But there was no evidence of damage or scorching, so I was hopeful. I set about to do a full shave and a haircut cleaning job: warm suds for the body, compressed air for the interior of the whistle, soft non-metallic dremmel tool for the wheels and rollers, and CRC sprayed on Q-Tips for everything else. (Thank you, YouTube!) I tried to take off the horse shoe clips to remove the trucks but couldn't figure out how and was afraid to do more harm than good by forcing too hard. So this made rewiring  the rollers awkward. How does one get those buggers off?

The 2 tiny hex nuts holding the whistle assembly to the carriage were stripped and rusted. Try as I might, even with WD-40,  I could not  find purchase to loosen them.  Again I was afraid to use too much force. What should I have done? What tool should I have had?

I removed the whistle relay, and the 2 hex nuts securing the motor assembly and exposed the brushes and commutator, all filthy. After more than a dozen Q-tips sprayed with CRC and tooth pics clearing the gaps, the commutator was shinier than a gold tooth. Then I went to work on the brushes, a caked on mess. I tried to sand them and got nowhere, then used some CRC with limited success, except Q-Tips worked well to clean the brush housings.. Finally I used the soft non-metallic dremmel and brought a shine back to the brushes. One has to be careful or you can abraid the skin off your fingers with the dremmel going 5k rpm. Then I turned to the wiring.

The 2 power wires were shot. So I clipped them off, and measured 2 lengths of flexible 18 gauge wire, stripping off only about an eighth of an inch of insulation on both ends. It was easy to solder them on to the motor, but not so easy to solder them to the contact points beneath the trucks. I had to push down on the rollers to expose the contact points while holding the carriage and the soldering iron. Those darn horse shoe clips! Eventually it got done well. I checked out the other wires to and from the relay and it seemed best to leave well enough alone. The electricals attended to, I oiled the truck axles. I did not know where  to lubricate the motor, so I did not try. Where should I have done that?

Then came the moment of truth. I hooked up the tender to a locomotive and the tender rolled easily like a champion. I let her run for a while, letting all those happy little electrons play in her circuitry. Then I pushed the transformer's whistle button and heard the most beautiful two note whistle, full throated, and no rattle.

So, friends, what did I do that I shouldn't have, and what didn't I do that I should have? What could I have done better or easier? Thanks  in advance for your comments

Goodness, this is fun!

Pete

2046WbeforeRefit

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Last edited by HCSader73
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Hi Pete,  

The whistle tenders are sufficently hard enough to work on that when you get to the finish line on getting one to work, it is a great accomplishment!  Its sort of like skiing, once you conquer the easy slopes, you are ready to try something a little harder. 

The fourm is a great resource, so if you get hung up on something, there are countless number of members willing to help!

HCSader73 posted:

Thank you, Carl!

I didn't know how far safely I could bend the retaining clips. Without replacement clips, I decided to leave them in place. Next time I'll bend them with a screwdriver and hope they pop off. Thanks for the tip, and the Olsen's link!

Pete

I couldn't find a pic of them - do they look like a C with 3 tabs against the truck pin? Those will pop off.

If they just look like a C crimped with pliers, then twisting the screwdriver blade will spread them and pliers will reclose.

Here is Olsen's main page, select library and then enter library to see all of the service documents.

I am familiar with PB Blaster.  I cannot think of anyplace I'd use it on a toy train.
I don't have much use for WD-40 either. I use it on tools.

The original poster said he did not lubricate the motor.
IMHO, it is unusual for the whistle to work without proper lubrication.
There must have already been sufficient lubrication, perhaps from one of the sprays.

It is very rare for me to use a spray on a train.
Normally I use pure mineral spirits as a cleaning solvent.
It works wonders when used with QTips.

The bearing on a 2046 type whistle are on the brush plate  and between the fan and armature head. It can be tough to get to this one.
On many Lionel motors, the armature shaft hole on the brush plate has no bushing/bearing.
I use a light oil on the real bearings and Labelle 106 grease on the unbushed hole in the brush plate. I use a toothpick to make certain the entire surface of the hole is coated, and put a thin coat on the armature shaft too.

HCSader73 posted:

Thank you, Carl!

I didn't know how far safely I could bend the retaining clips. Without replacement clips, I decided to leave them in place. Next time I'll bend them with a screwdriver and hope they pop off. Thanks for the tip, and the Olsen's link!

Pete

Protip: always have plenty of those Lionel C-clips on hand.  They're easily lost or broken, and even when you do it right, they are often weakened by bending.

HCSader73 posted:

Thank you, Dieseler!

That's a good idea to protect the paint on the carriage when removing a clip.

QUESTION: Did Lionel use one size retaining clip for all its carriages? I think I should have a few in my tool box in case I get overly enthusiastic.

Pete

Someone may correct me if wrong but yes for tender trucks such as yours 2046w  and others 2671w, 2466w,6466w etc. When looking them up at parts dealers they call them horse shoe clips mostly inexpensive and nice to have some in parts box for repairs have broken my share of them .

Last edited by Dieseler

One insight occurs to me in 20-20 hindsight about rewiring the rollers. I measured out what was the proper length of replacement wire and cut it. Then I soldered one end to the motor and the other end to the roller contact. WRONG!

It would have been a lot easier not to have cut a measured length at first, but simply to pass uncut wire through the guide hole under the carriage, then  strip the wire's insulation and solder to the roller contact with plenty of slack in the wire to maneuver. THEN cut the wire to the proper length and simply solder it easily atop the motor.

This is a small matter, but I paid the tuition in frustration and can now share the education.

Pete

It would have been a lot easier not to have cut a measured length at first, but simply to pass uncut wire through the guide hole under the carriage, then  strip the wire's insulation and solder to the roller contact with plenty of slack in the wire to maneuver. THEN cut the wire to the proper length and simply solder it easily atop the motor.

I find it much easier to solder the new wire in place while the truck is dismounted from the frame.
I always use solder wick and a needle nose pliers to remove all the old wire and clean up the old solder.
Then the new wire can be threaded into the hole, as was intended when the pickup was manufactured.
I do not tin the wire before threading it into the hole.

Are you using the specialty wire that is made for toy trains?
It is made with finer wires and a flexible insulation.

Rick, I have an Aoyue  60 watt soldering iron. I don't know the exact temp because there is no readout, but I would assume around 325-350 degrees C. I set it between 3 and 4 on a dial from 1 to 8. I tend to keep the temperature to the lowest effective. What I like about the iron is that it has an on-off switch, and a soldering "station" with sponge and water reservoir, a solder spool holder, and  safety iron holder. I always use solder flux to enhance the bonding of the metals. It worked fine on the roller connector.

Thanks for the great comments, C.W.

Recall that I tried to dismount the trucks but was frustrated by the horse shoe washers. Using a soldering wick to clear the decks is a great practice. Given my constraints I made due. When my new horse shoe washers arrive I will be able to drop the trucks should the wire come adrift in the future. 

 

Yes, the 18 gauge wire is specialty flexible wire I bought at the Train Show in Edison, NJ last March. (www.trainshow.com).

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