Ideas on aging/weathering metal tank tracks? Building WWII dioroma

Pretty sure they would be rusty and/or very dirty depending on what the track is made of and where it had traversed. IIRC the American tanks had pads, our M109's had rubber pads, don't think the German WWII models did. If you went to a construction site look at bulldozer, see the dirt weathering pattern. If you model a turn remember they pivot on the tread for a pattern in the dirt/grass. Looking forward to seeing it!

As to tanks. The tracks may have slight rust along the sides, but the track that has contact with ground would be more dirty and have wear rather then rust. Friction with the earth and dirt alone will keep rust away. The edges of the tanks, fenders especially might have rust formed from scratching, rubbing or damage from combat. From tanks and vehicles I saw in and coming from combat, dirt, dust, wear were more prevalent. The exhaust area and covers, screens over engines would be dirty, smudged, and blackened. Areas round hatches would have worn areas also. The barrels would be blacked around muzzles and area of turrets showing wear.

The other side is a vehicle that's been in a combat zone for several years would start to show slight rust more so on the underneath and areas in front and back areas that can be seen. Combat damaged areas will show rust since protective paint is no longer there.

Before painting you could use modeling clay, play-doh or a paste of flour and water to simulate mud accumulated in various places - on the hubs of the road and drive wheels, on the pan, under and on the engine compartment.  And of course snow on the non-moving, not warm areas of the tank as the battle was fought during one of the colder winters in a long time.  John in Lansing, ILL

The weathering would come later...right now I only want to cover the chrome-look.

I was an M1 tanker, 1st Batt. 67 Arm. Regiment, 2 AD, and changed my share of tank tracks, and even new tracks didn't look "new." The metal parts were brown and the treads were black. I just want to get that "brownish" look, preferably with a product that goes on fast and easy.

Paul,  You could make a 10:1 diluted mixture using tan to medium brown latex paint.   Either brush it on or put the mixture and tank in a plastic bag and shake it.  Should dry in less than one hour.  John in Lansing, Ill.  1st AD 1965-66.

On youtube watch PLASMO , best  military modeler for this , incredible tutorials

Go to You Tube and find Bob Letterman. He is a MASTER on this. Click here for this site. He lives about 6 miles from me and has the best military museum of dioramas you have ever seen.

John, "Old Ironsides", I thought about the brown paint. Someone told me about Rust Wizard, have no idea on it. I wish I still had my "Hell on Wheels" class-A patch...I think my sister has it, but my nephews may have lost it.

Roger, Bob has a first-class exhibit. I couldn't tell the scale. I couldn't approach that level of realism.

I use some of the great looking Corgi 1/50 Sherman models for my flatcar loads. Already nicely weathered.

Scratchbuilder1-48 posted:

On youtube watch PLASMO , best  military modeler for this , incredible tutorials

You can't go wrong by emulating Shep Paine's work:

http://www.studium.com/interviews/painefotos.html

I, too, am planning to honor the 75th anniversary of WWII.  Next year I will have in place a Lionel WWII train set with freight loads, a train with passenger cars, and a train honoring those who did the fighting including my dear old dad who was present at D Day.  Lionel is putting out some nice commemorative cars like D Day and Battle of the Bulge.  In a perfect world, they would make a car with that great photo of General Eisenhower giving a pep talk to the paratroopers.  Also a car honoring Generals Patton and Bradley would be great.