inexpensive shelving for standard gauge tinplate sets

If you are only supporting the ends and middle you may see some sagging with a 1x6.  Either go 2x6 (nominally 1.5x5.5) or add more shelf standards (vertical uprights).  I'd get shelf brackets that you can screw the wood to and keep it all secure.

I'd put plastic on the ceiling and probably a sheet against the wall just in case there is seepage.  Or get one or two vinyl garment rack covers, tape it to the wall (clear tape) and build your shelves inside.  You could probably put two together to cover 8'-10' as desired.  Some moth balls may help keep away insects.

I'm thinking about finishing an unfinished basement closet myself but I'm going to finish the wall with studs and 3/4" plywood with access behind for mechanical stuff.

If your basement is concrete walls and floor you will get a lot of dust no matter what.  Always consider sealing that with some concrete sealant you can pick up, with a sprayer, at any box store.

Concrete walls typically release quite a bit of moisture, even if they do not appear damp.  This can damage trains on shelves that are attached directly to the wall.  I would suggest attaching your boards to a sheet of cabinet grade plywood or Advantech sheathing rather than using brackets.  Use plastic sheeting behind the plywood when you attach it to the wall to provide a vapor barrier.  Eliminating the brackets will also allow you to have more shelves, because the brackets take up a lot of the space between shelves.  A sheet of plywood is also cheaper than all the brackets you would need, and if you screw the shelves to the plywood every foot or so, it will be stronger.  You will need to drill holes for the screws to prevent splitting the boards.  Applying wood glue before screwing would be optimal.

i have a great method of keeping bugs, spiders and dust off my trains...i run them.  of course, most of mine can turn a 19" circle, but who's fault is that.  there is a reason the SR&RL didn't run Yellowstones.

all basements are damp.  buy a dehumidifier.

Bob/navy.seal,

So in your case none of your vertical standards are screwed to the wall and the weight of all those stunning Milwaukees are on the top metal bracket?  Or did you screw the standards to the wall once you were happy with the arrangement?

Can't tell but are the brackets 4" or 6" deep and is it a two slotted standard?  And do you screw have a screw securing the underside of your wood shelves to the bracket?

Kirk R.

navy.seal posted:

I am not a fan of the various brands of aluminum shelving as all require way too many screws/bolts to attach each shelf to the wall, i.e., you can't easily change the shelf spacing without the hassle of  removing the horizontal shelves, patching the holes in the wall, and then remounting the shelves with a different spacing.  I recommend you consider a wall mounted system similar to the one pictured below that is "hung" as it is simple and quick to both erect and change shelf spacing.

 

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Kirk R posted:

Bob/navy.seal,

So in your case none of your vertical standards are screwed to the wall and the weight of all those stunning Milwaukees are on the top metal bracket?  Or did you screw the standards to the wall once you were happy with the arrangement?

Can't tell but are the brackets 4" or 6" deep and is it a two slotted standard?  And do you screw have a screw securing the underside of your wood shelves to the bracket?

Kirk R.

navy.seal posted:

I am not a fan of the various brands of aluminum shelving as all require way too many screws/bolts to attach each shelf to the wall, i.e., you can't easily change the shelf spacing without the hassle of  removing the horizontal shelves, patching the holes in the wall, and then remounting the shelves with a different spacing.  I recommend you consider a wall mounted system similar to the one pictured below that is "hung" as it is simple and quick to both erect and change shelf spacing.

 

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Kirk R,

You are correct.  None of the vertical standards are screwed to the wall.  Rather, all the vertical standards are attached to and are hanging from the horizontal bracket that runs the length of the wall just below the ceiling.  The vertical standards are "slid" into the horizontal bracket and can then be slid along the bracket to any location on the wall. 

The total weight of the vertical standards, 4" brackets, 1X6 horizontal oak shelves, track and trains is supported by the horizontal bracket which is screwed to the wall along its entire length. 

It is a 2-slot vertical standard system designed for 2-slot brackets of any length. 

You could screw the shelving to the brackets but I didn't.  However, do to the 30' length of the shelves and the fact that I couldn't buy 30' long and 1X6 oak boards, I had to use two 15' long 1X6 oak boards for each shelf.  These were held together using a special metal joiner specifically designed for that purpose that also is designed to drop into the top of a bracket thereby preventing the shelf from moving.

On each shelf I used Gargraves Std/O 5-rail track to facilitate locating Standard Gauge, or O gauge, or Standard Gauge and O gauge trains on each shelf.  For increased flexibility, I didn't fasten the 5-rail track to the oak shelves.   

Bob Nelson

Personally, I went with used aluminum shelving and it was significantly cheaper than buying new.  I found it on a train auction several years ago. 

I like it, because it disappears on my walls and one only sees the trains.  It is also nice, as one can get long trains on the shelves.  I have a 36-foot long stretch of shelving along this wall (the portion that extends over the layout).  The upper shelving is ?? (small size) to O gauge and the lower shelving is O to Standard Gauge.

Most of my shelving is spaced for O gauge, as that is what I primarily collect, but I do have an area for Standard Gauge trains

Here is some of the excess O to Standard gauge shelving that is waiting to be installed.

The gap between the lower shelving and upper shelving serves two purposes.  First and foremost, my electric wiring runs in the gap between the levels, as this is in a basement and I allowed for flooding and did not run the wiring along the floor level.  Second, it allows for extra Standard Gauge trains, should I fill the small area that is spaced for standard gauge, and it allows for some accessories.

As for attaching it to the walls, I used hex head screws that are made for attaching steel siding to pole buildings.  I was able to buy boxes of these screws in bulk at Menards and they have a rubber grommet on them, so they snug up nicely against the shelving and are easy to install with a drill and hex head driver.

Another advantage to this shelving is that one can space the shelves closer together as there is no need for space for thick shelves and the brackets that hold them up.

NWL

Plenty of thanks to the generous and thoughtful responses to shelving and layout build. All great ideas. I’ll post once I execute both. Thanks 

Ash Standard

I use the metal shelves also. I believe there is a plastic cover that can go on the end to cover.

F&G RY posted:

I use the metal shelves also. I believe there is a plastic cover that can go on the end to cover.

It depends on the type of shelving.

WOW! Had NO idea "shelf science" was so complex! I use a multi-shelf free standing rack and the top of a bookcase plus the top of a wooden engine carry case for my modest collection of LGB and standard gauge. Running the trains actually keeps them on the tracks! Of course, I am not in the Big Leagues like you fellows! LOL! IMPRESSIVE displays at any rate!  ☺