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I wanted to share with you these photos of a VL BB #4004. I wanted to see why I paid $2000 for a toy train. I also wanted to check to make sure all is well inside the boiler. Of course I was also curious as to its design compared to my MTH Premier BB also cab #4004.

 

There are four smoke units in the VL BB and I went through them and did some adjustment to the heat resistor and the heat sensor that one can see right next to the heat element. Therre are some any thoughts that came to mind but I shall let you look at the pictures and you may ask any questions and I'll do my best to answer them. I enjoy the knowledge and the help on this site and I'd like to be able to add some help to if at all possible. I am not an expert, just having fun!

 

.....Thanks for looking

 

Stock picture from Lionel site, below it is the actual model.

 

 

 

 

IMG_3638

The blow down hose was almost off!

IMG_3639

 

Main stack units and whistle unit. They have to be precision mounted to the chassis for the top boiler to fit well.  The black plastic output have to fit inside the top boiler, there are three stack, not easy to accomplish. Lionel did a great job here

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Wires, circuit boards, switches, and the great speaker enclosure. Lionel uses clear, thick and soft plastic to house the dual speakers. I think this material enhances the sound quality, better than MTH black thin and stiff plastic...just my observation!

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The main stack units, note the sensors. I tried to center the heat element in the reservoir. I also moved the sensors about 2 mm away from the heat element thinking it may improve the smoke quality, I think it did but I have no qualitative data to support such claim . Note the saturated material with smoke fluid. Lionel did not mark which is the front or rear stack connector, they ar both white but their harnesses are white and black, I took a 50/50 guess

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The blow down unit. Many wires flying everywhere, must be extra careful.

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A closer look. The blow down unit is all over the flywheel and drive u joint

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I added a tie wrap on the blow down hose.

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This is the tube the directs the smoke to the blow down ports. Note the Pittman motor, made in the USA? great! Brass elbow to prevent hose collapse.

IMG_3648

The sensor to turn off the front smoke unit when the "hood" is placed, great thinking on Lionel's part to prevent heating up the front smoke unit.. Note the three wires routed around the smoke opening, again, utmost caution is needed they do not get pinched by the black plastic exhaust stacks when the top boiler is replaced. Also note the wires for the headboard lights and marker lights...same caution is needed. Many of the wires clips were loose, A drop od thick CA took care of it. I also added a drop of CA glue to the three wires to keep them in place (red, black and white)

IMG_3652

The top boiler assembly. very well done and crisp die casting but in my opinion can use more details for such a high end VL unit.

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There is a divider between the front reservoirs. I thought of removing the aluminum divider to increase capacity BUT, that may ruin the synch chuffing effect, a feature I really really like at very low speeds!

IMG_3654

The divider removes easily.

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Many wires very near the flywheel, danger zone. The flywheel was wobbling a lot during operation, I did not like it, I may contact Lionel to see if there might be a latent problem with vibration!

IMG_3656

 

Note the drive shaft! many wired very very close to it, I re routed some and tie wrapped some to reduce such risk. The two big screws that hold the switch assembly were loose.

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Switch board and more wires

IMG_3658

 

Over all, I am happy with the Engineering that Lionel did on this model, it is not just a toy train in my mind. These are hard to deign, build, assemble AND assure some quality control. Many potential problems exist due to complexity so supervision is mandatory at the factory in China!

 

Taking off the top boiler was a piece of cake, four screws, putting them back on took me more than an hour because I wanted to make sure no pinched wires would cause a disaster and I hate returning locos

 

Lubed and greased the gearboxes (BTW, one gear box had brass gears the other engine has steel gears???, ran the loco without the top boiler first and adjusted smoke units and I then ran it with the boiler on but NOT screwed, then finally I added the four boiler screws and re tested it...I was lucky I did not blow it up, it ran well and smoked like a chimney. I am using MTH smoke fluid, Xmas scent no less All the smoke units seem to smoke better now!!!

 

Live long and prosper!

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Last edited by BigBoy4014
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Excellent!  Between you and Alex there is a lot of good info in these threads.

 

The saturated wicks will make a huge difference in how this thing will smoke.  Post a video if you can.

 

I didn't realize they used Pittman motors in these. 

 

The wiring/blow down unit contacting the flywheel concerns me, I may open mine up and check.

 

Recently I've been working on scratch building a steamer-I have a new appreciation for everything I see in the pictures.  Lionel did an amazing job getting all of that 'stuff' in there!

Sam E.

Relative to:

 

The main stack units, note the sensors. I tried to center the heat element in the reservoir. I also moved the sensors about 2 mm away from the heat element thinking it may improve the smoke quality, I think it did but I have no qualitative data to support such claim .

 

Folks, be careful moving the sensor away from the element.  I spec'd the distance carefully to the factory.  If you move the sensor out of alignment, you may get a cab light flash error.  The smoke servo I designed will look for "time to operating temp", and stop the heating process and fault out if the temp is not reached in time.

 

The sensor is used to get the element up to temp and hold the heating at a max temp.  the sensor does not regulate temperature.  The sensor resolution is "too crude" for the requirement to shade smoke based on labor.  The fluid and batting material type is also part of the "servo loop", and if you change the batting material on the temp controlled smoke units, it may damage the smoke system.

 

Note: the crusting/residue in the batting is not burnt batting material as thought by folks on the forum.  It is the byproduct of combustion, you are burning oil!  All batting types will suffer from residue buildup, and this is why recommend our premium smoke fluid as it burns fairly clean.

 

 

Originally Posted by SantaFeFan: 

Note: the crusting/residue in the batting is not burnt batting material as thought by folks on the forum.  It is the byproduct of combustion, you are burning oil!  All batting types will suffer from residue buildup, and this is why recommend our premium smoke fluid as it burns fairly clean.

Aha, now that's an answer to a question I have been asking - about whether there's any real reason apart from sales that Lionel recommend their premium fluid - and maybe sheds some light on another and very long thread where people were speculating on why the Lionel premium fluid seems to evaporate much so quicker in its container than other brands.

 

So now I am glad I used in my BB but that hasn't made the blowdown feature function as it should. Surgery may be called for when I finally run out of patience with it.

 

I've deleted the part of Jon's reply that refers to the calibration of the smoke unit by reference to the batting used as well as other components. Trouble is even if you want to use the pre-cut batting these engines come installed with it's not available from Lionel.

 

P.S. Marty is right - Thanks as always to Jon for putting us in the picture.

Last edited by Hancock52

The white rope style batting hasn't left any residue in any of my old TMCC engines, like the precut batting does after minimal run time. Lionel used to use the white rope style batting, but have switched to the precut stuff... WHY? Lionel sells replacement batting in the form of the white rope stuff, which we all know out performs that new stuff.

 

 

Burnt Smoke Batting

This is 10 years old, burnt to a crisp, even the resistor, but no residue left in the bowl.

 

 

20150407_120359

 

This stuff was in my S3, which didn't have nearly the run time as that 10 year old rope batting, it crumbled apart, and there was crusty residue in the bowl which had to be scraped out.

 

Burn, evaporate...call it what you want. The white rope batting should be used in all new engines. I guess we all should just send our Vision Line engines in to Lionel to get them to smoke properly  

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  • Burnt Smoke Batting
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Last edited by Former Member
Thx for the info Jon.
 
Can you tell me the spec'd distance between the sensor and the heat element? I will go back and meet the spec. Also, are you saying one should not change the batting to the rope type or any other type? please let me know since I will be checking/servicing all my Legacy engines soon....
 
Cheers!
 
Originally Posted by SantaFeFan:

Sam E.

Relative to:

 

The main stack units, note the sensors. I tried to center the heat element in the reservoir. I also moved the sensors about 2 mm away from the heat element thinking it may improve the smoke quality, I think it did but I have no qualitative data to support such claim .

 

Folks, be careful moving the sensor away from the element.  I spec'd the distance carefully to the factory.  If you move the sensor out of alignment, you may get a cab light flash error.  The smoke servo I designed will look for "time to operating temp", and stop the heating process and fault out if the temp is not reached in time.

 

The sensor is used to get the element up to temp and hold the heating at a max temp.  the sensor does not regulate temperature.  The sensor resolution is "too crude" for the requirement to shade smoke based on labor.  The fluid and batting material type is also part of the "servo loop", and if you change the batting material on the temp controlled smoke units, it may damage the smoke system.

 

Note: the crusting/residue in the batting is not burnt batting material as thought by folks on the forum.  It is the byproduct of combustion, you are burning oil!  All batting types will suffer from residue buildup, and this is why recommend our premium smoke fluid as it burns fairly clean.

 

 

 

Check HERE  .... 4th post down is the part #

 

I use Mega Steam, Lionel Premium and the new Smoke Cloud

 

MegaSteam... great smoke output, lots of flavors

 

Lionel Premium--even more smoke output...stinks bad

 

Smoke Cloud-- the most smoke output by far... no flavors, but not as stinky as the Lionel stuff 

Last edited by Former Member

This is the S3 smoke unit I rebuilt with 2 - 8" Lionel smoke batting replacements. 1 - 8" piece on each side of the divider.

 

Also notice the long tube for the cylinder steam. It' not much shorter than the blow down tube for the VLBB, if at all. This thing smokes like crazy now. So if the smoke unit is putting out a ton of smoke like it should, the length of that tube won't matter.

 

 

20150407_120830

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Last edited by Former Member

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