Skip to main content

I’m about to begin transitioning to Gargraves track from Fastrack. I have the Lionel Fastrack 6-12040 adapters to do that as well as the Gargraves #801 pins.
It seems like it should be simple to remove the tubular track pins on the one end of the adapter piece and install the Gargraves pins but I don’t want to damage anything and I especially want to ensure the GG pins stay in place.
So - any advice to doing this task to avoid making a mistake will be greatly appreciated!


Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

I was also concerned about damaging the FasTrack, so I just added a piece of old Lionel track between the FasTrack and the Gargraves.  Note that I have insulated the outer rail - I am using the outer rail to indicate train presence.  Also you can see the small popsicle stick at the beginning of the GarGraves track - ensuring the rail heights are even.  One more thing you may notice in the photo is the soldered connections between the track pieces - soldering between the rails is how I can avoid having a power drop to every piece or every other piece of track - especially ones with modified pins or connectors like these.

FasTrack to GarGraves Transition


Images (1)
  • FasTrack to GarGraves Transition

Thanks Dan!

The standard Fastrack pins have a vertical ‘fin’ with a small tab that engages in the track bed to keep it place. The GG pins look like the only thing keeping them secure is the pressure from the rail around them once installed?

Apparently that’s enough to keep them from pulling out of the FT rails on the track adapter when separating pieces of track if needed?

Last edited by Raven87

IMG_1237IMG_1235IMG_1236Well, I must be doing something wrong because after putting one of the new pins in a FT rail and tightening the rail tabs back down on the underside of the road bed, the GG pin is still loose. See pics.
What am I missing or doing wrong? It sure seems like the friction fit would hold it in place, but it does not so I must not have something tight enough because when I test fitted a GGrail against the fast track with the GG 801 pin, the pin pulled out of the FT and remained STUCK in the GG piece.

So I’m wondering, is there anything wrong with just installing three pins in the GG piece of track and leaving the rail ends open on the FT adapter and just attach it that way?


Images (3)
  • IMG_1235
  • IMG_1236
  • IMG_1237

OK you have the fat end of the adapter in the FT, right? How come you had to loosen tabs underneath? Won't that 031 pin just pry out with diagonal cutters?

Here is what I know from building a FT layout in Florida a few years ago. You can cut a length of FT straight or curved (to make fitters or 031 adapters), and the open ends nicely fit a standard 031 pin. You can then use 031 pins to connect 2 pieces of cut FT, straight or curved. So they should also nicely fit the fat end of a gargraves adapter pin? I have never tried to fit an adapter pin to an FT/031 track adapter piece as you are doing, but it seems like it should work with no issue. Maybe you need to judicously squeeze the open end of the rail sides, from the end, then insert the pin?


Last edited by Rod Stewart

Thank you Rod. I’ve tried different things in an attempt to seat the 801 pins in rails on the FT.

i could not pull the O round pins from the FT piece until I loosened the tabs underneath and pried them up a wee bit. Apparently the rail is notched internally to match the groove on the round pin?

Then, when I insert the GG 801 adapter pins and reposition the rail down, I can feel the pin slide in and hit that stop or whatever that is. But even once I tighten everything down the pins, no matter how snug they feel will not stay in the FT piece.

I’ve even squeezed each rail a little bit to make it even harder to get the adapter pins into the fast track piece.  But still they will not stay and seem to have a more snug fit in the GG piece?

I was thinking about the cork Road bed so that really won’t be an issue. I just didn’t think that was that much of a difference in rail height without the road bed but I will need to transition it in some manner.
Thank you again!

@Raven87 posted:

Is the Midwest Cork Roadbed product what most members use? Any pros or cons?

I used foam roadbed, and I found it easier to use than cork roadbed.  A bonus is it's also a lot cheaper.  The cork nowadays is around $1 a foot, I did the foam for half that.  Also, the foam didn't need to be split and staggered, and it comes in 6 foot lengths, twice the length of the cork roadbed.

Add Reply

This forum is sponsored by Lionel, LLC

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)

Link copied to your clipboard.