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I wouldn’t even know where to begin. But if I was printing them. I wouldn’t make the pins all that tight. No need to force anything in there. The pin itself is not really providing anything other than keeping it in place.  I would put a good size nub in the middle maybe even contoured to the shape of the railhead.
Gargraves does sell them. 800 is the item number.

Something worth 3D printing would be insulated transition pins between GarGraves and tubular O. Toothpicks don't work well in that application, and cutting down a Lionel plastic pin on one end is a pain. I am happy to buy the premade ones for GarGraves to GarGraves. If you want to avoid shipping, buy them at a show, maybe. I have checked in with a parts vendor before a show to ensure what I needed would be there.

I don't use the pins at all.  I slice the rail where I need to isolate, such as for crossing gates or a crossing signal, with a Dremel cutoff disc.  I make sure I've cut all the way down the rail.  l then cut a piece of styrene to fit the gap, superglue it in place and sand it to match the track's  profile.  Then I   touch up paint it to match the color I've done for the track.  Zero cost.

@PeterA posted:

I don't use the pins at all.  I slice the rail where I need to isolate, such as for crossing gates or a crossing signal, with a Dremel cutoff disc.  I make sure I've cut all the way down the rail.  l then cut a piece of styrene to fit the gap, superglue it in place and sand it to match the track's  profile.  Then I   touch up paint it to match the color I've done for the track.  Zero cost.

I also use a Dremel cut off wheel and never worry about pins, But I just cut the gap; I don’t bother with styrene or anything else.

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

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