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I bought a A-A set of Williams E-7s to detail and install a full Electric Railroad system. It's the only Williams trains I own. I bought them because of the cost of the other brand were more money than I wanted to spend and I wanted to see how detailed I could make a engine as a project. I have no problem with detailing the engine. My question is how hard is it to install an Electric RR system in a Williams Diesel? Thanks for any info. DonUnknown

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Don,

If you can solder, have a couple of small hobby screwdrivers and follow instructions you will have  no problem with the installation.  The instructions are very good and the wires are colored for ease of following them. If I recall  there are some tutorials on youtube.  Try Legacy Station.  I found it to be very satisfying and great fun. Go for it!   

Piece of cake, diesels are less "fiddly" than steam for ERR installs.  My biggest job installing something like this is I usually like enhanced lighting, things like adding marker lights, ditch lights, etc.

That you will need to add a MARS simulator.  I use the ngineering.com MARS Simulator for.  You have to add a filtered DC power supply, but it'll look better than the Williams MARS light ever looked!

John, Which LEDs do you use for marker lights, ditch lights, mars lights?  What do you use for the filtered DC power supply?  TIA Pat B.

@lpb007 posted:

John, Which LEDs do you use for marker lights, ditch lights, mars lights?  What do you use for the filtered DC power supply?  TIA Pat B.

I "roll my own" power for stuff like the MARS simulator.  Typically, I'll use this one with a 12V regulator for the MARS board.

For steam, I'm still using the 2mm ceramic LEDs, I grabbed a quantity of them before they went out of production.  I have red, yellow, and green.

 

I frequently use 2mm post LEDs for diesel markers, they work well. 

 

You can drill a 2mm hole and stuff them through the shell.  I hot glue them when I get the correct amount of projection on the outside of the shell.  Of course, I pre-wire all if the stuff and make a lighting harness, then I just lay it in and stick the wires down and the LEDs in place.

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Don, I am using another E7 as a test bed for things like MARS lights, and found if I shrink tube the LED and wire to the open headlight bezel that used to funnel the incandescent light to simulate a headlight, it keeps the cab interior dark and improves the stream of light from the front.

 

John,

I get a little messy with liquid tape, the air gun shrinks a piece of tubing in like 2 seconds, keeps it tight and when I want to remove/replace it a little xacto slash and it is out.

I am also working with aluminum foil to reflect a smaller LED light into the cab, I just need to get some seats and engineers found who work cheap.

@JohnActon posted:

Ever try black hot glue ?  cures a bit faster than liquid tape.          j

Yep, I have one gun loaded with black, and the other with clear.

Hot glue is not nearly as precise in application as you can do with Liquid Tape and a small toothpick.  For finer work, I still prefer the liquid tape, hot glue is certainly not a one-size-fits-all solution.

Mallard, I haven't owned a Williams engine in many years other than the 44 ton to build my steeple cabs on. I have more Milwaukee Road engines than I can ever run but always liked the E7 with their square side windows. When I saw Williams was coming out with them I had to get one. Yes it has the wrong six wheel trucks and it doesn't have all the detail the others have but I thought it would be a fun project to detail. I find it strange they stopped producing it. It seemed like a big seller. I my opinion it's one of the best looking Williams engines they ever made. I have been collecting all kinds of detail parts including new pilot with hoses and scale coupler. Don703-2Unknown-1

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