Is there a track cleaner that actually works?

Believe it or not I used WD40 to clean my American Flyer track and it came out superb.

We use Denatured Alcohol, sold at Lowes/Home Depot, or at a store near you, and we wipe it all off after cleaning the track.  I have Gargraves/Atlas O/Ross Custom/some K-Line 072/027 trackwork. Denatured alcohol evaporates quickly and is really great. We do all our track cleaning by hand, fairly often. When you run steamers smoking like bandits, track gets very dirty.  Also we use Bright Boy erasers, scotch bright pads, but not on the blackened middle rails, it will take the Black off. Happy track cleaning.  Happy Railroading 

I use 91% alcohol on Atlas O track. Removing dirt and the accumulation from traction tires requires pressure, and even not-too-dirty track will quickly blacken a cleaning cloth. The solution is to rotate the cleaning cloth frequently. I think manual cleaning is the best way to get track clean. Not fun but necessary.

MELGAR

I've been using a centerline track cleaner for many years, does a decent job inside the tunnels as long as I change the rollers often, all accessible track i do by hand with alcohol.

A block of wood , a shop cloth, and alcohol.  changing the position of the cloth frequently, Is the way I do it.  Never could see how a dirty track pad car got track clean.   However in my tunnels I use a track car changing the rollers each pass through a tunnel, I use a lot of rollers and wash them after use.  

yup 91% alcohol does the job

Mineral spirits (paint thinner) also works in lieu of alcohol.  Will clean grease and grime off the rails, but your cleaning cloth gets VERY dirty VERY quickly.  I generally use higher quality paper towels and pitch them when I am done.

There was, or have been, a couple threads(more than a couple lol) debating this topic. Especiallyin light of Lionel's 16-17 Track & Power magazine recommending  a "Citrus based cleaner" as isopropyl alcohol doesn't help with "electrical conductivity" and MTH recommend "denatured alcohol"(Quotes from Lionel & MTH, respectively).

One night, I picked 9 random pieces of track that I use on my layout, and made 3 groups with each having a tubular piece and 2 realtrax pieces. For each group, I used gray, gritty type track eraser followed by the yellow track eraser found in Lionel maitenance packs. Wiped over with dry rag as, despite the claims, there was still "residue". Then...

Group 1:  I applied 91% Isopropyl to 3 pieces with a soft rag, went over it with a scotch brite, and then used compressed air to finish the drying/get any other residue off.

Group 2: I applied denatured alcohol to 3 pieces with a soft rag and followed the same process as the Isopropyl

Group 3: Went over the track with a dry scotcchbrite pad. Applied track cleaner(I'll tell you the name in 20min when I go down to my layout) on a soft rag. Wiped off any excess with another rag and used compressed air to ensure the excess was gone. I then let it set over night as instructed.

The next day I went down and checked, I ended up going over Group 2 with Isopropyl alcohol as it left a film on the track. For group 3, there was a very light film on the track that i just got wipedd of with a rag and track eraser.

If you want to do a serious track cleaning for tubular- I suggest track eraser, dry scotchbrite, then apply 91% isopropyl with a scotchbrite pad,(if it's really dirty, go over the inner railswith a q-tip and the tp of the rails as well), make sure you clean the track pins as well andI'd suggest putting some type of conducta-lube ONLY on the track pins! Thendry off the track with a rag and compressed air.

Regarding denatured alcohol, I only use that to clean the wheels of my engines, specifically the wheels with traction tires as recomended by MTH b/c regular Isopropyl will dry out the neoprene.

Here is a track cleaner that really works.  I can attest to it because the G&O crew has been using it to clean the track on our garden railroad for ten years.  The G&O's Atlas track gets very dirty between run sessions just because it is outdoor.  Trains will not move unless the track is cleaned on the entire layout before each operation session.  Many areas of the layout are difficult to reach without getting on a ladder and climbing on top of the display.

It is the North East Trains track cleaning car.  See the photos below.  This track cleaner has two cloth pads that are attached to weights that ride on the track as shown in the photo.  

This is the way we use it.  We have a diesel push two track cleaning cars over every layout track.  We can do this before an operating session because all locomotives and cars are removed at the end of each day.  Pulling the track cleaning car does not work because the locomotive stalls on dirty track.  Pushing the track cleaning car cleans the track ahead of the locomotive so that it will continue to run.  We use a diesel just because they have better traction than steamers and a claw front coupler.  

We soak the leading pad of the lead track cleaning car with Goo Gone.   The second pad is soaked with 91% isopropyl alcohol.  The pads of the trailing track cleaning car are left dry.  

The G&O crew has tried many different track cleaning products and combinations of products during the last ten years.  The combination of Goo Gone and 91% isopropyl alcohol works best.  Products like WD-40, CRC-25, etc., work well to get the track clean but make the rails slippery for both steamers and diesels.  Goo Gone works well by itself but it works better when combined with 91% alcohol on the trailing pad.  This combination of cleaners has never harmed the G&O's Atlas track.  

The pads can be hand or machine washed.  Hand washing is preferred because it leaves the pads intact.  Machine washing eventually causes them to loose shape.  We have been using the same pads for 10 years with hand washing.  We have had to replace some machine washed pads.   We have had to replace only one truck on one track cleaning car during the last 10 years.  

I use the same technique on my home layout.  It only needs the track cleaned about once every 6 months.   NH Joe

Here is a link to the website:   http://netrains.com/trackcleaningcarbase.aspx

 I purchased a Trainman 2000 years ago and it helps between the hands on method

Al

New Haven Joe posted:

Here is a track cleaner that really works.  I can attest to it because the G&O crew has been using it to clean the track on our garden railroad for ten years.  The G&O's Atlas track gets very dirty between run sessions just because it is outdoor.  Trains will not move unless the track is cleaned on the entire layout before each operation session.  Many areas of the layout are difficult to reach without getting on a ladder and climbing on top of the display.

It is the North East Trains track cleaning car.  See the photos below.  This track cleaner has two cloth pads that are attached to weights that ride on the track as shown in the photo.  

This is the way we use it.  We have a diesel push two track cleaning cars over every layout track.  We can do this before an operating session because all locomotives and cars are removed at the end of each day.  Pulling the track cleaning car does not work because the locomotive stalls on dirty track.  Pushing the track cleaning car cleans the track ahead of the locomotive so that it will continue to run.  We use a diesel just because they have better traction than steamers and a claw front coupler.  

We soak the leading pad of the lead track cleaning car with Goo Gone.   The second pad is soaked with 91% isopropyl alcohol.  The pads of the trailing track cleaning car are left dry.  

The G&O crew has tried many different track cleaning products and combinations of products during the last ten years.  The combination of Goo Gone and 91% isopropyl alcohol works best.  Products like WD-40, CRC-25, etc., work well to get the track clean but make the rails slippery for both steamers and diesels.  Goo Gone works well by itself but it works better when combined with 91% alcohol on the trailing pad.  This combination of cleaners has never harmed the G&O's Atlas track.  

The pads can be hand or machine washed.  Hand washing is preferred because it leaves the pads intact.  Machine washing eventually causes them to loose shape.  We have been using the same pads for 10 years with hand washing.  We have had to replace some machine washed pads.   We have had to replace only one truck on one track cleaning car during the last 10 years.  

I use the same technique on my home layout.  It only needs the track cleaned about once every 6 months.   NH Joe

Here is a link to the website:   http://netrains.com/trackcleaningcarbase.aspx

I like that process, I always use Goo Gone for wheel cleaning. Thanks

I used 91 percent alcohol for years.  Then I read this article about polar vrs. non-polar solvents.  Now I use mineral spirits.  Alcohol will actually attract dirt according to the article.

https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws...ne/index.html?page=9

Looks like that North East Trains car that New Haven Joe recommended will do a good job, but I use an R&L Lines track cleaning car that I got years ago for track that I can’t reach by hand.  It uses mini foam paint rollers that you can get at hardware stores.  It works well unless you get a batch of cheap rollers that won’t roll well.

http://rllines.com/

Thanks for the replies, but I was asking about a track cleaner as in a motorized or rolling-stock item pushed by an engine, like the NE trains model (which I once had and used). The RRlines model looks interesting in that it uses rollers, which in theory would clean longer stretches of tracks than pads. Either one though necessitates changing of pads/rollers every x amount of feet. There may be no getting away from that.

The 3rd criteria for an automated track cleaner would be: regular application of solvent/cleaner to the pads or rollers via some sort of tank or reservoir.

We tried a home-spun version of the Centerline car. We even made two so we could double-head them for more cleaning power. They did not work.

Just not enough downward pressure on the rails to be effective.

We use Goo-gone applied to an old, folded t-shirt. Three fingers firmly press the soaked rag against the three rails and the black is removed easily.  

Hi`,i have used Lionel`s No. 3927 track cleaning car for years and it always works for me, i usually make 2 or 3 passes around my layout, what i like most about it, it has its own tank, so you can use what ever you like in it, except things like Goo Gone or anything that is thick liquid, hope this helps, Phil

We've used the Trackman 2000 at the club, and I have one at home as well.  Works quite well, and I don't feel the need to have wet cleaning.

Another vote for CRC 2-26 cleaner. See link above.

I'm extremely pleased with my Trackman 2000.

After I used up the pads that came with it, I substituted Scotch purple pads on it. They likewise do a very credible job. Btw, from what I've seen, Pat's Trains track cleaner car is similar to the Trackman 2000.

I use the purple pads as well, they last a long time before they lose their effectiveness.

I second the trackman 2000, it is my go to tool for this task

I have used two CRC products, Brakleen and electronic cleaner, on a NE trains cars.  Get's a lot of dirt off.  Be sure to get the red cans, not the green cans (Calif), if available in your area. 

I did have Brakleen warp a plastic truck, which I replaced with a PW Lionel truck.  The Brakleen also evaporates quickly, which means one lap & pad is dry.   Never had thought about washing them.vvThe CRC QD electronic cleaner is plastic safe.

Another happy user of the North East Trains Track Cleaning Car and Goo Gone and CRC-2-26

I agree the centerline cars need some resistance to be really effective. I added quarters to the rollers and it helped. I also experimented with one car to add bolts to push down for additional resistance which works well. Then I built two others of my own where I add a roller with one quarter inside of it to add resistance and they scrub really well. You want the cars to scrub the track and not just roll over the dirt. What I like about the Centerline setup is that when it hits something like a point, it will roll forward over it easily. Here are some photos to show a little train I built up.

You can see the difference in how much more the cars pick up with resistance added to them. The first and last cars in the photos use only quarters added. I add alcohol to the first roller but run the rest of the train dry. The first car in the last photo is a magnet car.

Nice mods Christopher!

We also tried adding weight to the enclosed rollers (BB's, quarters, etc.) and we tried applying more downward pressure to the rollers with thick rubber bands.

The rollers got very dirty, but, unfortunately, a lot of dirt remained on the rails. There just wasn't enough pressure applied to remove it. 

I used alcohol once.  Even though I had windows open to vent fumes, I woke up next day with a headache (hangover).

I don't see how a pad rolling over the dirt, rather than sliding, can really remove dirt.

One caution when using abrasives. Any fine steel dust will get on wheels if you have magnetic traction.  Also might get into bearings

Try www.mnpinc.com.  I’ve looked at this track cleaning car in the orange hall at York. The pads are motorized. I don’t own one but they look very good. 

Graz, I tried rubber bands also and they were useless and they wore through.

RJR, in the cars that I built, the rollers scrub. 

If you look at the hopper cars with the two rollers in them you will see the solution for scrubbing. The resistance on the top roller actually keeps the bottom roller from rolling until it hits something like a point on the switch. In that case you really want the roller to roll over, instead of snagging. You can add weight to the top roller to suit how much you want the bottom roller to roll or scrub. I found that the top roller gives a lot of resistance and I only added 1 or 2 quarters to work.

The photos above really tell the story of the difference between the rollers without resistance and the rollers with resistance. They all ran the same route at the same time. Sometimes I don't even change the rollers that don't have resistance in the setup. You can see they stay fairly clean.

I also use the Centerline car with Goo Gone.  I also add as many quarters as I can.  If the roller won't roll - that's too many quarters.  Simply take some out.  I have many rollers that I swap out as I go.  I also leave as many cars on the train as it will pull.  That also cleans the wheels on the cars. 

Goo Gone is what Centerline recommends using.  Has always been.  Still is.  I don't remove the Goo Gone with any other chemicals afterwards.  The Goo Gone leaves a protective film.  I haven't cleaned my track in over a year.  If you wipe your hand over my rails right now there is no film/oil residue, and you won't get any black off them.  I will never go back to any other type of cleaning.  This is proven to be the perfect method for me.  

The electrical conductivity between the track and the wheels is amazing after you perform this.  

By-the-way.  The talk about Goo Gone damaging rubber traction tires is a myth.  It is internet old wives tale.  You won't find anyone ever proving that it did any damage.    

Also, Mike Reagan, former president of Lionel, recommended this method years ago here on OGR.  He said this is what the techs at Lionel do.   

Chris N&W: Very neat idea.  Now I catch how it functions.

Rod, I have an MNP caboose with a single centerized pad.  When I bought it, reports were that the 2 pad units, which extend out the side, would foul on switch motors.  The owner is a very nice guy.

Here is a good test to see if the center rail is clean:

1.  Reduce room lighting.

2.  Run a Lionel or Marx engine which has sliding center rail contacts.

3.  Run engine.  If the center rail contact sparks like crazy, it is not clean.  Conversely with no sparks.

This is a recommended article from a thread couple months ago about what to clean your track with.

Model Railroad Hobbyist/May 2019 

read the Publisher's Musings article...

I have every type of cleaner available; I bought them all because I'm lazy and keep hoping one will actually clean the rails.

NONE work well enough!

for fun I string them all together and watch them try to clean the rails.

Sort of like watching paint dry.

RJR posted:

I used alcohol once.  Even though I had windows open to vent fumes, I woke up next day with a headache (hangover).

I don't see how a pad rolling over the dirt, rather than sliding, can really remove dirt.

One caution when using abrasives. Any fine steel dust will get on wheels if you have magnetic traction.  Also might get into bearings

 

Golly, RJR, how much alcohol did you use?

Just enough to moisten a single paper towel folded into a square of about 2 x 3 inches, probably less than a quarter of a capful, is enough for 20 or so feet of track. I use 70% rubbing alcohol - a 32 oz bottle lasts me for years and only costs about a buck.

Never had a fume issue, been doing this for decades

I know there’s 100’s of ways to clean track, however, sometimes you just have to roll up the sleeves and go to Work. This little car is cute, but does it really clean dirty/greasy/gritty track, not real good. I use these products with fantastic results. Happy Railroading 

leapinlarry posted:

I know there’s 100’s of ways to clean track, however, sometimes you just have to roll up the sleeves and go to Work. This little car is cute, but does it really clean dirty/greasy/gritty track, not real good. I use these products with fantastic results. Happy Railroading 

 

This the car I use with 91% Isopropyl alcohol on my GarGraves track and it does a great job. I rote the pads and have the clearer on the second pad and then rotated the used cleaner to the front and put on a clean pad on the rear and run it around again works well for me and that layout was 20x20 with 3 main lines. On tin plate track not so good due to higher corrosion issues with the older track.

John, I have a lot of track, some of which is less accessible than others. Takes many hours to rub it all.

Me i just use my hands it's easy for me because i can reach all of my layout ,i use wd 40 ,lps lubricant .works for me .

Me too, RJR.

Warrenville has about 600 feet of track, much hard to reach. Need to reach under overpasses and over/through scenery including tunnels. Gotta crawl under the layout and up through some access hatches. Areas I can't reach by hand are accessed by using a stick about 2 feet long, 1 1/2 wide and 1/4 inch thick with a pad of paper towel with alcohol rubber banded to the end. This extends my reach and gets into tunnels.

Break a large job down to manageable steps. I do about one line/loop a month, usually as I change the trains running on that area. If I do track or scenery updates/repairs in an area I always clean the track in that area at that time too.

In this manner all of the track winds up getting cleaned at least once every 9 months or so, which I find is more than enough.

I don't run trains with traction tires, preferring Magne-traction, don't over oil axles, and clean train wheels when I move rolling stock and engines from my display shelves to the layout. These things could that be reasons for my tracks staying clean longer.

Possibly the type of track makes a difference too? Warrenville uses traditional tubular track.

RJR,

I learned a long time ago about getting fume headaches from cleaning track.

Almost 60 years ago when I was around 9 years old I ran out of Lionel Track-Clean to put in my # 3927 Lionel Track cleaning car, so I went in Mom's cleaning closet, found a bottle of  Naptha cleaning fluid and said to myself: "Self, this says cleaning fluid, so it should be good".

Well, not only did it destroy my track cleaning car, but I thought my head was going to explode. Worst pain I've ever had.

Don't do that!

AlanRail posted:

I have every type of cleaner available; I bought them all because I'm lazy and keep hoping one will actually clean the rails.

NONE work well enough!

for fun I string them all together and watch them try to clean the rails.

Sort of like watching paint dry.

 

Now that’s funny right there. Made me laugh out loud. Good stuff.

George

Lionelski posted:

RJR posted:

I used alcohol once.  Even though I had windows open to vent fumes, I woke up next day with a headache (hangover).

I don't see how a pad rolling over the dirt, rather than sliding, can really remove dirt.

One caution when using abrasives. Any fine steel dust will get on wheels if you have magnetic traction.  Also might get into bearings

 

Golly, RJR, how much alcohol did you use?

Just enough to moisten a single paper towel folded into a square of about 2 x 3 inches, probably less than a quarter of a capful, is enough for 20 or so feet of track. I use 70% rubbing alcohol - a 32 oz bottle lasts me for years and only costs about a buck.

Never had a fume issue, been doing this for decades

He was using Jack Daniels. Best alcohol there is! A capful is probably not enough, and it’s more than a buck.

George

John, as I recall, that naptha was treacherous stuff.  If memory serves me correctly, its fumes were also explosive--similar to gasoline.  Water heaters and furnaces can ignite gasoline, naptha, & alcohil fumes

alanrail:  mixing cleaners can be extremely dangerous.  Some household cleaners, when mixed, will ignite, explode or create hazardous gasses.

George, no, it wasn't Jack Daniels, but for a lot fewer dollars I had the same hangover.  Keeping the pad very wet, meant a lot of evaporation.

Unfortunately, all this chatter reminds me that there are many hundreds of feet of track in the next room that haven't been cleaned for ....[censored]..

Naphtha is flammable, but it’s not really that dangerous. I have some that I use to thin train enamel for air brushing. It evaporates quicker and is less prone to problems, but it all depends on the paint.

Try not to inhale that stuff either. Maybe get an inexpensive respirator.

George

I have one of the cars formerly produced by a company called Bridge Masters.  I believe they're still in business but no longer producing the O gauge cars.  He had a few left when I inquired and I bought one but that was a few years ago now.  It's a nice simple design with an axle at each end of a rectangular frame.  In the middle there's a floating weighted block that you can clamp a strip of a scotchbrite pad in (half of a regular sized pad as I recall).  It does take awhile, but it seems to leave a shiny railhead after a few laps.  You can always follow up with a rag and rubbing alcohol or another cleaning car with a pad soaked in something to ensure it's very clean.  I always just use it by itself though and it seems to be sufficient.

Trainz has one on their ebay page right now and I believe it's not much more than I paid for mine.

Naptha is the main ingredient in older lighter fluids (Zippo,Ronson, etc), newer Ronson/Zippo formulas seems similar enough I can't tell a difference.

It is listed in PW Lionel text as a plastic cleaner for cars/acc./etc and for cleaning motor parts too.

It is easily brought to flame, but not prone to explode. Rather the flame will want to stay close to the liquid; slow evap as mentioned, long burn time because of that too.

It will give you a headache if you don't vent heavy fumes, but light use isn't a bother imo.

I keep thinking there is an electrostatic solution to this as it seems to part of which wheels get dirty first. Sometimes it's the lead wheels that collect the most gunk, sometimes not. So I figure the track/motor/wheel connection fields are playing with the dust buildup in some near inconceivable and "redundant"(to some) way.

I also think frying food at home has an impact on how sticky dust can be in the house (most (about 90%) of house dust is old skin cells .  Kids and Old Farts leave more behind to be collected). There is also the flange to rail friction adding some slight amount of metal to the electrically charged people dust and settled airborn oils 

Post War will have a little more gunk because of brush dust, but I think carbon dust & fields are the real issue. 

 And maybe the blackness developing isn't as bad as you think (they will "never" remain 100% and a "white glove test" is unrealistic after an hour of running, even in a plastic bubble imo. (that glove is for C-9/C-10 stuff, not rolling stock used as "toys") 

Also, you have to clean wheels just as much as track, and if one is dirty and you run , now the other is dirty; dirtier than if you had cleaned everything 100% before running anything at all.  Gramps usually cleaned track and then stock before he ran them if they had sat more than a day or two. Maintenance was part of program for him; a habitual replacement after they took his Army rifle and made him walk off the planes again 😬

Track cleaning cars are for in-between the hand cleanings imo. It takes a lot of laps to make it worthwhile too.  Wet, you'll always have the residue, lack of oil on the metal(none at all = rust and more friction dust) or fumes to consider, and dry scrubs are slow and leave dust on the layout.

Vacuume more too. Put a nylon over the hose to catch small items before they are sucked into the machine; empty the nylon of dust when needed as it acts as a dust bag too. Hold the nylon firmly, it will get sucked out of a rubber band and go into the dust collector. 😲   Sometimes it will hold ok between the brush head and extension/tube too if they are rubbery enough to not slip.

The Armstrong track cleaner always works for me.

I am starting a layout with new Gargraves Track - Phantom three rail wood ties. Never used Gargraves track until now.

Do I need to be concerned that any of the above methods will take the black off the center rail? 

I have most of the track cleaning cars that were ever offered  but still don't think any of them work as well as a saturated cloth and "elbow grease".

Thank you,

Paul

Railrunnin posted:

I am starting a layout with new Gargraves Track - Phantom three rail wood ties. Never used Gargraves track until now.

Do I need to be concerned that any of the above methods will take the black off the center rail? 

I have most of the track cleaning cars that were ever offered  but still don't think any of them work as well as a saturated cloth and "elbow grease".

Thank you,

Paul

I’ve been using Gargraves since the 80s.  Solvents won’t remove the black from the center rail.  Abrasives like Scotch brite eventually will.

Good ideas posted here.

Christopher has what looks like the ideal set-up for track cleaning.

Even Lionel back in the day had their Postwar track cleaner, which has a scrubbing brush followed by a cleaning pad. I think they were on the "right track" except I don't think the cleaning fluid dispensed to the brush.

As I read what you wrote, Paul, you are saying the Lionel car was to be pushed?  I have one, and affixing the foam brush was always a problem.

Do any car have provision for keeoing the pad wet?

RJR posted:

As I read what you wrote, Paul, you are saying the Lionel car was to be pushed?  I have one, and affixing the foam brush was always a problem.

Do any car have provision for keeping the pad wet?

Theoretically, the modern Lionel one (there are a few other deco options as well, I think they've done this at least 4 different times) does have a tank that "automatically" keeps the foam scrubber wet, but it's hard to adjust it right to get a desirable flow (very easy to have all your fluid spill out too soon and be all over the layout in one area, particularly if something happens and you stop the engine that is pushing/pulling it - the fluid will of course be dispensed just the same whether the car is moving or not! ).

IMO, it was a neat idea, but the actual product is a bit too messy to use regularly (for me at least).

Deco 2.  Deco 3.  Deco 4.

-Dave

Adriatic, as to the explodability of naptha, here's a link to naptha-burning external combustion engines, which also mentions the existence of a Sumolex naptha-burning internal combustion engine

https://www.gasenginemagazine....z/the-naphtha-engine

RJR posted:

As I read what you wrote, Paul, you are saying the Lionel car was to be pushed?  I have one, and affixing the foam brush was always a problem.

Do any car have provision for keeoing the pad wet?

i have one, and the foam disk things are certainly a problem with mine, they don’t like to stay on, and they like to get caught in my switches if they do.

on a side note, has anyone ever used nevr-dull on their track? it seems like it would work really good, but i’m not sure if traction tires would like the stuff. 

Here's a home-made track cleaning car I built out of some wood scraps and spare trucks.  The main body is 1/2" x 2-1/2" oak board.  It holds a scrub sponge that I bought at the dollar store (comes two per package).  No cutting required, just press the sponge in.  The sponge can be used dry or else wet it down with some cleaner (admittedly, I haven't tried it wet, yet).  I can also set a metal plate or small brick or similar on the car if I need to weight it down a little more.

I really haven't fully tested it that well yet, since my layout isn't THAT big and can be hand-cleaned about as fast as getting this car out and ready to go.  But it might have some potential.  It could probably snag on something here or there, but perhaps whatever it manages to snag on needs filed down a little bit anyway.

Dave45681 posted:

RJR posted:

As I read what you wrote, Paul, you are saying the Lionel car was to be pushed?  I have one, and affixing the foam brush was always a problem.

Do any car have provision for keeping the pad wet?

Theoretically, the modern Lionel one (there are a few other deco options as well, I think they've done this at least 4 different times) does have a tank that "automatically" keeps the foam scrubber wet, but it's hard to adjust it right to get a desirable flow (very easy to have all your fluid spill out too soon and be all over the layout in one area, particularly if something happens and you stop the engine that is pushing/pulling it - the fluid will of course be dispensed just the same whether the car is moving or not! ).

IMO, it was a neat idea, but the actual product is a bit too messy to use regularly (for me at least).

Deco 2.  Deco 3.  Deco 4.

-Dave

 

 

I have the "Christmas" version of this one and it does a decent, not spectacular, but decent job.  The instructions do say to turn the fluid release lever to "ON" for 3 seconds and then turn it back to "OFF" before pushing or pulling around track. 

I made 2 cleaning cars from old plastic Gondolas, Drill 2 holes in the middle of the car spaced inside the wheels.  Drill the same holes in 2 thin wood plates a bit wider than the tracks. Push carriage bolts through the wood then put a good spring on the bolt, then push thru the bottom of the car and add a nut inside the car. Add car tire balance weights in the car, use enough to overcome the springs below and keep the wheels on the track.  Glue or otherwise secure a kitchen dishwashing sponge with the scrubby back facing the track to each wood pad.  Mount a magnet just above the track to one end of one car to catch metal bits falling on the track.  In front of a train or engine, Run them once a week all over the layout.  This setup worked great on my old layout and I expect it will also work on the new one in progress.

BatTrain posted:

I have the "Christmas" version of this one and it does a decent, not spectacular, but decent job.  The instructions do say to turn the fluid release lever to "ON" for 3 seconds and then turn it back to "OFF" before pushing or pulling around track. 

Hmmm....  I'm normally pretty good about reading the manuals, but maybe I goofed and didn't read thoroughly enough all those years ago(I had the first one they made).  Or maybe the manual was updated over the years?

In any event, thanks for the feedback.  Maybe I'll dig it out and try it again (and RTFM! ) sometime soon.

-Dave

@signalwoman, what is never dull? (I know one answer is the sun☺)

Here’s an ideal track cleaning car, or cars. This paper was given to me at York last October. It should be ideal for those hard to reach areas. Happy Railroading 

RJR posted:

Adriatic, as to the explodability of naptha, here's a link to naptha-burning external combustion engines, which also mentions the existence of a Sumolex naptha-burning internal combustion engine

https://www.gasenginemagazine....z/the-naphtha-engine

Pressure has a lot to do with it's use as a motor fuel.  In open air it's more like kerosene, spirits, or turpentine than gasoline.  Kerosene isn't prone to explosion from vented atmospheric evaporation either.  You couldn't breathe in the concentration needed for a kerosene boom, it would be near a spray.

Wood is quite flamible but unlikely to explode. But concentrate, heat and compress the gasses and they run motors too.

I'm not sure about oranges. (pretty flammable though)

If you're vented at all and use some common sense, you're pretty safe with naptha dampened rags (and all set to light a weekend barbeque)

Hey, how about those "french-fry" smelling motors burning cooking oil for fuel 😜

hokie71 posted:

@signalwoman, what is never dull? (I know one answer is the sun☺)

its a combination cleaner and polish for metal, and leaves behind a protective coating. i use it on my truck for the chrome, great stuff. eats trough grime and even light rust without too much trouble. it comes as a can of pre soaked wadding.

here is why none of these work well enough.  THERE IS TOO MUCH SURFACE OVER THE LENGTH OF THE RAILS AND NOT ENOUGH "clean" SURFACE ON THE CLEANING PART(S) OF THE CLEANERS.

As soon as the cleaning parts are saturated with crud they stop cleaning and you are just spreading the crud along the remaining length of the rails. What is needed is a way to vacuum or remove the crud as it builds up on the cleaning parts.  Until that is invented, your hand, a clean rag and some cleaning solution and your elbow is the only way to really clean the track rails.

I agree with AlanHN,doing it by hand is the best way as long as you can reach all areas ,i have been doing it that way for years & i also have two track cleaning cars that never really did a good job .

 A car with some kind of reel of cloth that slowly unrolls onto a take up reel would seem a solution. Thin cloth, over a saturated foam of some sort.

i have one of those expensive brass cars, but an old white sock stretched over a 1 by 4 short board works best.

And I saturate the sock with Caig Deoxit D5 contact cleaner.

Here’s an ideal track cleaning car, or cars. This paper was given to me at York last October. It should be ideal for those hard to reach areas. Happy Railroading

I have an S gauge one like this mounted in a boxcar. Don't know if it was from the same manufacturer. The pad assembly slips onto the shafts which are driven by can motors internal to the carbody. The pad assemblies tend to ride off the shafts during usage, usually on a switch. Also have a unit from Portline hobbies which has a larger central single pad driven by a can motor. Pad attachment is different as the cleaning pad attaches to the permanently attached pad assembly using the hooked side of a piece of Velcro. Works much better. The motor speed varies with track power so Legacy operation is ideal. The pad motor spins at 16V speed while the engine speed can be controlled for best cleaning operation. One pass using a Scotchbrite pad is usually all that's needed. I have seen various gauge units sold in the orange hall at York. 

Chuck

Come up with a design for a "reel track cleaning car" with a winding cleaning material that self saturates with fluid and you'll have a winner.

 Additionally, a wheel cleaning machine would be nice too.

Yes I can imagine it...wheels turning provide the turning of the reels, etc. Weight for traction, a drip like on the expensive brass one, etc. Just don't have a machine shop here or need a job . The brass cleaner car suggests cutting corduroy up for pads...maybe strips of cotton sheets. Wonder how many length feed of sheet one could reel up for a run. I kind of like the reel turned at a 45 degree angle (isn't there one like this?), because it uses up more area on the pad surface than running straight while it's reeling out the material. I guess it could also run backwards when it is out of length since it theoretically hasn't used up it's cleaning ability with one pass. Maybe just pull it in reverse.

Fun to think about...

leapinlarry posted:

Here’s an ideal track cleaning car, or cars. This paper was given to me at York last October. It should be ideal for those hard to reach areas. Happy Railroading 

A track cleaning car within a Serry testing car or a rail grinding car may work!

Something like this??

As the car moves the cleaning tape or strip rotates up into the take-up real at the top.

I can build most of the parts for this  on my 3D printer.

I wonder if part of the problem is some of us wait until the track is too dirty before we decide it needs some cleaning?

Part of my thought process is some of the comments/concepts of it making a difference if we push or pull the cleaning cars. I'd suggest if the track is dirty enough that the engine needs to push it (assuming the need is driven by poor engine performance if the track is not hit by the cleaning car first), the track is way too dirty!

Also the comments about just pushing the dirt around.  Obviously that is true no matter how much dirt may be there, but it's proportional to what you start with, I'd think (therefore less noticeable if the track is less dirty when you start).

Just a thought.

-Dave

Paul Kallus posted:

Besides our own hands doing the cleaning, is there a track cleaner that actually works? I've tried a couple of commercial track cleaners over the years and they always come down to pushing a dirty cloth or pad around after running a few feet, defeating their purpose; and as such, they've long since been sold, lost, or thrown out.

I surmise for one to be viable the criteria should be:

1. It has a cleaning pad that either rotates or self-cleans such that a clean pad is applied every 3-6 feet of track length;

2. Cleaning pads can either be washed/renewed or be made out of old tee-shirts, etc.

3. Cleaning pad has enough weight/pressure on it to lift dirt.

Has anyone found one that works?

 

Yes.  CMX or something close.  Pads change easy and passes white give test.  Expensive, but only hurts once.  Bought 3 years ago and have never looked back.

cjack posted:

This is a recommended article from a thread couple months ago about what to clean your track with.

Model Railroad Hobbyist/May 2019 

read the Publisher's Musings article...

 

If you have not read this article cjack mentions, you should. Google it , it is free! 

Given the stated criteria for a track cleaning car that would work at least as well as old-fashioned elbow grease, I am thinking it would come out to be an engineering project that would take considerable R&D and capital investment, and the street-cost per unit would likely be over $1,000. Not likely to happen.

hokie71 posted:

cjack posted:

This is a recommended article from a thread couple months ago about what to clean your track with.

Model Railroad Hobbyist/May 2019 

read the Publisher's Musings article...

 

If you have not read this article cjack mentions, you should. Google it , it is free! 

I can't seem to get that article to come up

clem k posted:

I can't seem to get that article to come up

Try this. Need to click on the "click to read this article", it's a browser similar/identical to the Lionel catalog, so I'm not sure I can link to the relevant pages.  It opens to a larger full edition of the magazine, the track clean musings start on page 9.

-Dave

Thanks Dave :   I found that. My first time on there site.

It figures the two different CRC products I have are the worst ones.  It mentions WD40 as good, I did not know there was more than one version of WD40.

I read somewhere else about the arching of wheels, only they where talking about metal versus plastic wheels,  I guess that is why I don't normally have a track cleaning problem because I run about 80% Weaver Delriin wheels.

I wonder if wheel arching is more of a problem in a 2 rail environment ?

I researched the CMX cleaning car and you are correct, Bryant, is is a bit pricey ($300).  I'd be interested in hearing more about this car from persons who own one ("Ask the man who owns one"--Packard slogan).

Way up in this thread, someone mentioned cleaning the pads on a NE Trains car.  I'd be interested in learning how the poster does this.

I have a CMX cleaning car and although pricey, I like it a lot. I bought extra pad material so I could change pads over and over until the tracks are clean. I just throw the pads in the wash to be used again later. I use 91per cent alcohol. They give you a syringe to suck the alcohol out of the bottle and squirt it into the car. The car is pretty heavy, I hope this input helps,

Don

The Trackman 2000 cleaner was relatively simple, used a couple of different pads that could be fabricated if you did not have access to them.   Additional cleaning may be required inside of outside rails, IMO    

AlanRail posted:

here is why none of these work well enough.  THERE IS TOO MUCH SURFACE OVER THE LENGTH OF THE RAILS AND NOT ENOUGH "clean" SURFACE ON THE CLEANING PART(S) OF THE CLEANERS.

As soon as the cleaning parts are saturated with crud they stop cleaning and you are just spreading the crud along the remaining length of the rails. What is needed is a way to vacuum or remove the crud as it builds up on the cleaning parts.  Until that is invented, your hand, a clean rag and some cleaning solution and your elbow is the only way to really clean the track rails.

Agreed 110%.  Along with a rag and some cleaning solution, here's probably my best track cleaning car.  Notice it has no wheels or couplers.  

Any comments on the R&L track cleaning car?

A comment regarding acetone.  It is an excellent cleaner, but can do damage.  To illustrate, I left a quart can of it on the deck of my cabin cruiser.  (stupid!)  When I came back a few days later, the can had tipped & leaked, doing unrepairable damage to the deck.   Consdier you may have [plastic parts in switches and in switch motors, so it could be risky for them.

I cam a across a review of the CMX car.  It is attached

I had not heard of the CMX cleaning car until mentioned in this thread...it does appear to be as good as it gets with regards to commercially available products. I found this review by Eric's trains:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1fsBb2Jnz1g

How about 3 Fingers on a cleaning rag saturated with GOO GONE ? !

LOL

FREDSTRAINS

Fredstrains posted:

How about 3 Fingers on a cleaning rag saturated with GOO GONE ? !

Sure, if you can conveniently reach all areas of the track. That's possible on some layouts, of course, but on many it is not really easy to do without damaging scenery, structures, etc.

Allan Miller posted:

Fredstrains posted:

How about 3 Fingers on a cleaning rag saturated with GOO GONE ? !

Sure, if you can conveniently reach all areas of the track. That's possible on some layouts, of course, but on many it is not really easy to do without damaging scenery, structures, etc.

Just kidding, however I m fortunate to reach all my Track from the edge of the Layout!!  On my last Layout (which was much bigger), I had good luck with the “Northeast Trains” Track Cleaner Cars!  Using 2 in Tandem!  The first one with Pads wet with Goo Gone, and the 2nd one with Dry Pads!  Worked very well!

Fredstrsins

I recall an article done by resident OGR tech guru Jim Barrett, where he modified a Lionel track cleaning car to use a Scotchbrite pad in place of the foam one.  Can't tell you all the details but maybe Allan A can point you in the right direction

Dennis LaGrua posted:

I recall an article done by resident OGR tech guru Jim Barrett, where he modified a Lionel track cleaning car to use a Scotchbrite pad in place of the foam one.  Can't tell you all the details but maybe Allan A can point you in the right direction

I made mine by photocopying a foam pad and using that as a template for cutting out the thin Scotchbrite pad - the one without the sponge.  Works a bit better than the original.  

New Haven Joe, how do you hand clean the NE trains track cleaning pads?  I've had some soaking in Dawn detergent & water, and can't seem to dent the grime.

For those who use CRC products, whuch are generally very good, I would point out that if you go to their website and check the Product Data Sheet for the item you plan to use, some are not plastic safe.  Brakleen and Lectra-Clean 3000 are not.  QD electrical cleaner appears to be. 

To directly answer the subject title,,,,,,,,,,yes there IS a "cleaner" that actually works.

1) take a short piece of 1"X2" pine, about 4" long.

2) Wrap a soft cotton rag TIGHTLY around the piece of wood.

3) Moisten the cotton with denatured alcohol.

4) Apply physical effort to CLEAN YOUR TRACK!

For what it's worth, there was no place on our layout that I couldn't easily reach, plus the layout was constructed so that I could actually climb up on it and walk around on the tracks, without damaging any scenery.

RJR posted:

For those who use CRC products, whuch are generally very good, I would point out that if you go to their website and check the Product Data Sheet for the item you plan to use, some are not plastic safe.  Brakleen and Lectra-Clean 3000 are not.  QD electrical cleaner appears to be. 

brake cleaner will clean up track like nobody’s business, that stuff can’t be good for you though. i definitely wouldn’t use it around certain plastics, or paints for that matter. 

 I’ve used CRC Brakleen for years. Make sure you use the one in the red can. It probably would harm plastic. I have Gargraves and have never had an issue. Best thing is. It is non Flammable. The version in the green can is. I use it on a rag. Wrapped around a piece of wooden block. Or in a CMX track cleaning car.

I've been using it for years on my NE Trains car, but it evaporates very fast.  QD elecyronic cleaner doesn't seem as effective.  There is a QD Contact cleaner and a QD electronic cleaner.  I don't know what is the difference

Dave, do you buy it in non-aerosol containers for the cmx?  The cmx is very attractive.

Russell posted:

I made 2 cleaning cars from old plastic Gondolas, Drill 2 holes in the middle of the car spaced inside the wheels.  Drill the same holes in 2 thin wood plates a bit wider than the tracks. Push carriage bolts through the wood then put a good spring on the bolt, then push thru the bottom of the car and add a nut inside the car. Add car tire balance weights in the car, use enough to overcome the springs below and keep the wheels on the track.  Glue or otherwise secure a kitchen dishwashing sponge with the scrubby back facing the track to each wood pad.  Mount a magnet just above the track to one end of one car to catch metal bits falling on the track.  In front of a train or engine, Run them once a week all over the layout.  This setup worked great on my old layout and I expect it will also work on the new one in progress.

Here's mine, I modified a pair of gondola's just like Russell described above.   I wet the first scotchbrite pad with denatured alcohol, the second one with goo gone and it's followed up with the Lionel track cleaning car thats dry to mop things up.  It works great provided I keep up with it by running it around the track a few times every other week or so....

Paul

 RJR, I just buy it in the aerosol can. My track doesn’t need cleaning very often. I spray it into a plastic bottle with one of those flip open spouts. Easy then  to dribble it on a rag. Or with a funnel. Fill up the cleaning car.

I use 2 centerline cars, both with goo gone. I put round fishing line weights in the tube. It rolls good that way.

Then I walk around the layout and manually scrub with a scotch bright pad, or a rag, while the cars are going around the track. 

I’ve found that the best way to keep the track clean is by judiciously oiling engines and cars. A little goes a long way. 

RJR posted:

  There is a QD Contact cleaner and a QD electronic cleaner.  I don't know what is the difference

Isn't one flammable?      http://api.crcindustries.com/a...rvices/get-pds/03130

And the other non?  http://api.crcindustries.com/a...rvices/get-pds/02180

I e-mailed CRC and got the following reply:

Hello,

 02130 and 03130 are the same item just different sku, marketed to different types of industry- 05103 while not exactly similar chemistry wise is a comparable alternative sold to our automotive industry.

My e-mail was as follows:

 Can you please tell me what is the difference among these 3 products:

#05103 QD Electronic Cleaner

#02130 QD Contact Cleaner

#03130 QD Contact Cleaner

Thank you

-----------

Here's link to the CRC catalog, where you can see what affects plastic, etc:

https://www.crcindustries.com/.../industrial-catalog/

@sidehack posted:

yup 91% alcohol does the job

Does the 91% alcohol work on fastrack

@DAVID PEARSALL 010218 posted:

Does the 91% alcohol work on fastrack

Works fine, but the "dirt" comes back pretty quickly  A non-polar cleaner will last longer.

A friend who had to frequently clean his track for contact issues was using alcohol. A reasonable guess like many here. BUT he switched to dampening a sock with wd40 and hardly had to clean his track at all for months.

Just say’in…

Mineral spirits works well for me.

Has anyone tried this: https://www.trainworld.com/bac...-bachmann-99992.html  I tried to buy it a month ago but it went out of stock before I could complete the transaction.  For my HO track, I've been using a Walthers CSX track cleaning boxcar.  It's much to heavy for one engine to pull, so I do it by hand.  It's like soap stone.  I was worried it would scratch the track but nothing has been seen at this point.  I'm really amazed at what it picks up from the top surface.  However, it only does the top surface.  For the sides, I use a paper towel with frequent rotation.

I also noticed there is a block you can get that will clean the wheels themselves.  But that also is a manual process.  Unless I'm completely mistaken, the high end HO cars that have metal wheels have a very light surface covering of machine oil and this eventually transfers to the track.

Anthony

For wheels and rollers, I use a Dremel Wire Wheel, does a great job.

I have no dog in this fight, and don't intend to risk Fido by entering it, but I note that graphite is an excellent lubricant.  A good coating on the outside rails should improve wheel spin drasticly, especially when trying to move a long train.  Many of the non-polar solvents do leave a residue.

For wheels and rollers, I've gone to using these small abrasive balls, which come in a variety of grits and fit a Dremel and seem to be a little less abrasive than a wire wheel and little pieces of wire don't get all over the place.

I do a lot of switch restoration and cleaning.  I use Kingspor Sandflex hand blocks, fine grade.  Does a great job.  I follow up with my Dremel 428 polishing brush.

Based on experience, I strongly recommend that, if you use an abrasive, you run a magnet over the tracks.  Especially if you have magne-traction.

I have heard using NO-OX-ID A-Special on the track after cleaning from the ho and n scale people on youtube but I have not used it and not sure what it would do for traction as the goal with it is to have a micro film on the rails.

Keith1366 and others

Keith, you beat to it about NO OX.  NO OX has been used on model railroad tracks since the 1940s.  Linn Westcott, the original editor of Model Railroader, used to treat his train track with No-Ox ID A Special and stated he knew other people who did as well, and they never had to clean their track aside from occasionally vacuuming up debris.

Read more: https://dfarq.homeip.net/how-t...track/#ixzz7KK83r7vW

NO OX is an electrical conductive grease and reduces sparking.  It is used to reduce sparking in many switching and wire connections in industrial applications.  Dust and oil and grease from engines cause dirty track and train wheels and sparking oxidizes it.

You can clean track successfully with a dozen or so cleaners, cleaning cars, etc.  To me the promise of NO OX is clean the track and engine wheels once, apply NO OX and never clean track again. I have cleaned my track with mineral spirits and applied NO OX to my O27 track in December 2021 and have updated a NO OX topic on OGR here.  We will see if track cleaning for me is over!

My trains have never run better and they now can run really slow.  I have 027, 31 Marx switches and run mostly post war locos.  Better electrical pick up from the center rail and no sparking are great.

https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...1#158955947792824251

Charlie

I think there is no perfect solution to this or we all would be doing it. I use centerline with pennies wrapped in electric tape to weigh it down. I cut swiffer pads and glue the pad to itself. After each use I pitch it. I clean the track the first Saturday morning of each month.

One thing I would say too is not to over oil your axles or over grease the motors. Doing that keeps the track cleaner.

91% alcohol does it for me. Ever since I was a kid I've always loved the smell of the blue colored Life Like track cleaner. No harmful vapors that I know of. Always takes be back.

Since I have a lot of track in not the easiest places to get to, I finally after almost 30 years decided on looking at track cleaning cars.  I settled on a CMX for $300. I also bought several extra roles of the cleaning pad material. I use Isopropyl alcohol for the cleaning solution.  ( I was investigating using acetone until I spilled it on our kitchen wood top table.  My wife said that was it for the acetone))  I have had good results but I do run the car changing the pads regularly until the pads start to look less dirty. The car does have some weight to it and the manner in which the alcohol is metered to the front pad is by a thumb screw adjustment on the top of the car. The second pad is the wiper.  The pads a a little cumbersome to change each time but track cleaning is a necessity and like all things you get used to changing them.  I hope this along with all the other old heads' experiences in here help you make a decision that helps you.

i was a 91% IPA user until....Please, read this article. I now use mineral spirits and results are great.

https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws...ay/online/index.html

I read this thread a couple months ago when I was looking for a better answer.  I have a layout with tunnels, and they are nearly impossible to clean by hand.  Over the years I've used an old Lionel track cleaning car and a North East Trains car.  The North East Trains car worked OK after I fashioned a shell to ride on top of it and add weight, but I didn't run it often enough and was not satisfied with it's performance.  So, after researching here, I bought a CMX cleaner.  I have found it works better than anything I've tried, and I'm very satisfied.  The only thing better is elbow grease when I take the time and where I can reach the track on the layout.

Am glad to see that Wahl clipper oil is listed in GRJ's table of non-polar cleaners; I've been using it for some years now.

When I started this thread I was mainly asking about track cars, and there's been some good ones noted. I think however a "train" of track cars, at least 3, pulled by an engine is the magic formula, though am not sure if anything beats the old hand pushing a rag. But, if you can maintain track with cleaning cars, it stands to reason that major cleaning frequency would be reduced.

@Lenny the Lion posted:

91% alcohol does it for me. Ever since I was a kid I've always loved the smell of the blue colored Life Like track cleaner. No harmful vapors that I know of. Always takes be back.

Believe it or not, I still have some of that Life Like track cleaner.  It's got to be over 60 years old and hasn't evaporated.  As a kid, I always thought of it as potent stuff.  It should have eaten through the glass jar by now.

Just started using Odorless Mineral Spirits and the NO-OX-ID on the blackened center rail only.   Wish I had researched this years ago.  All my engines are running more smoothly and the flickering in my passenger cars and cabooses is gone.

I have a Northeast car.  I read many of the threads on here and went with GooGone. Works well on tubular track. I wet the front pad and leave the rear one dry. The pads can be washed and reused a couple of times or scotchbrite pads can be cut to fit. I won't use any of the spirits-based products- the CEO complains about the fumes.

I had to clean my fastrack for under the tree this year, it was black, and the GG on a scotchbrite brought it right up to shiny new again.

I added to the fun by building a MOW car body.

I also use a wire wheel in my Dremel for wheels and rollers, or CRC on a Q-tip. I like those balls that @Richie C. posted. Who makes them?

Bob

On my O-Line, I spray a small amount of CRC 2-26 at selected spots and let the train spread it. Works immediately. On the garden railway, I use an Aristo track cleaning car for a few trips and follow up with a sponge to shine the rails if a train slows; I use split-jaw clamps. The result is good running of trains in a short while, including the start of the season in the Spring. Mark

@RSJB18 posted:

I have a Northeast car.  I read many of the threads on here and went with GooGone. Works well on tubular track. I wet the front pad and leave the rear one dry. The pads can be washed and reused a couple of times or scotchbrite pads can be cut to fit. I won't use any of the spirits-based products- the CEO complains about the fumes.

I had to clean my fastrack for under the tree this year, it was black, and the GG on a scotchbrite brought it right up to shiny new again.

I added to the fun by building a MOW car body.

I also use a wire wheel in my Dremel for wheels and rollers, or CRC on a Q-tip. I like those balls that @Richie C. posted. Who makes them?

Bob

Hi Bob - just go on the big A and search "dremel buffing pads" and they will come up along with a whole slew of similar products. The pic of the one I showed is for 40 assorted grits and goes for $13.00.

About the only issue is that the shafts are thinner than a standard dremel accessory shaft and, depending on what model dremel you have, the collet may not tighten down enough to hold it in place. Funny, the thinner shaft works fine with my 30 year old dremel, but I had to buy an accessory collet for my new one.

Love the MOW body.

@RSJB18 posted:

I added to the fun by building a MOW car body.

Bob

I really like that.  Much better than what comes with it.

I did a forum search on this product (Track Magic) and I was amazed I did not find it has been mentioned.  A neighbor likes this and was curious if anyone knows anything about it.

Useful to learn about the shortcomings of using alcohol.  Interestingly, there's a loco review in the latest issue of Model Railroader where the magazine's senior editor mentions using alcohol to clean the track.

Homer Simpson taught me that alcohol is the solution to every problem...

@hokie71 posted:

I did a forum search on this product (Track Magic) and I was amazed I did not find it has been mentioned.  A neighbor likes this and was curious if anyone knows anything about it.

I have used it for about two years with no complains.  I wipe the tracks (Fastrack) every 1-2 months.  I use both Legacy and DCS and can run dead slow everywhere on the layout.

@Danr posted:

I have used it for about two years with no complains.  I wipe the tracks (Fastrack) every 1-2 months.  I use both Legacy and DCS and can run dead slow everywhere on the layout.

Dan, where do you buy this Track Magic

  Thanks, Dave

@chris a posted:

Just started using Odorless Mineral Spirits and the NO-OX-ID on the blackened center rail only.   Wish I had researched this years ago.  All my engines are running more smoothly and the flickering in my passenger cars and cabooses is gone.

Chris, where do you buy this NO-OX-ID product.

The mineral spirits is also paint thinner.

Thanks, Dave

@CAPPilot posted:

I really like that.  Much better than what comes with it.

Thanks Ron. It was a fun project to do. The body is styrene and the details are from San Juan and Plastistrut.

Bob

Dave,   I bought the 2 oz container of NO-OX-ID A Special,  on Amazon, I just combined it with another item I needed to get over the threshold for free shipping, here's a link...   2 ounces will laster longer than I'll be here running trains and cleaning track.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H...dt_b_product_details

I picked up a quart of "Odorless Mineral Spirits" at the big box store for around $9.00.   

@RJR posted:

A comment regarding acetone.  It is an excellent cleaner, but can do damage.  To illustrate, I left a quart can of it on the deck of my cabin cruiser.  (stupid!)  When I came back a few days later, the can had tipped & leaked, doing unrepairable damage to the deck.   Consdier you may have [plastic parts in switches and in switch motors, so it could be risky for them.

I cam a across a review of the CMX car.  It is attached

I watched your attachment regarding the CMX car twice and found it very informative

  Thanks, Dave

@chris a posted:

Just started using Odorless Mineral Spirits and the NO-OX-ID on the blackened center rail only.   Wish I had researched this years ago.  All my engines are running more smoothly and the flickering in my passenger cars and cabooses is gone.

Chris, the big A description of NO-OX-ID says it's a lubricant, don't you experience wheel slippage on your engines?

George

Odorless mineral spirits works well for me. It doesn’t promote gunk buildup (it ranks well on the list posted by gunrunner John on the preceding page of this thread) and won’t smell up the room -

I am only using the No OX on the center blackened rail.   If you watch this video about track cleaning it will help describe proper use and application. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lBYxjcTWCB0

I use Goo Gone on a NE Trains track cleaning car's front pad and leave the rear pad dry and it really cleans the grease.

@RSJB18 posted:

I have a Northeast car.  I read many of the threads on here and went with GooGone. Works well on tubular track. I wet the front pad and leave the rear one dry. The pads can be washed and reused a couple of times or scotchbrite pads can be cut to fit. I won't use any of the spirits-based products- the CEO complains about the fumes.

I had to clean my fastrack for under the tree this year, it was black, and the GG on a scotchbrite brought it right up to shiny new again.

I added to the fun by building a MOW car body.

I also use a wire wheel in my Dremel for wheels and rollers, or CRC on a Q-tip. I like those balls that @Richie C. posted. Who makes them?

Bob

This was a great build Bob.                What creativity !                What a great construct on the details !              What a good looking color combo !               What a great looking functional piece !                    It looks like it could be a no-frills real RR car ( not sure what it would do .......but who cares  ).               Gotta be the best looking rail cleaning car I've ever seen .

Really like the photo of it on the layout .

Thanks for keeping us updated through the whole build process.

In answer to the lubricant questions, you only dampen the cleaning cloth, don’t wet it. I’ve not had any slippage.

@DAVID PEARSALL 010218 posted:

Dan, where do you buy this Track Magic

  Thanks, Dave

I first bought it at a train show.  A bought a refill bottle on Amazon and you can find the starter kit there as well.  You really don't need the starter kit, all you need is the bottle of Track Magic and an applicator, like a foam paint brush.

By the way, No-Ox is also available on Amazon, of course.

Still trying to decide on what fluid to use, but here are some photos of my track cleaning cars.

@shorling posted:

Believe it or not, I still have some of that Life Like track cleaner.  It's got to be over 60 years old and hasn't evaporated.  As a kid, I always thought of it as potent stuff.  It should have eaten through the glass jar by now.

  Must be some good cleaner

@CAPPilot posted:

I really like that.  Much better than what comes with it.

Very nice

@Mallard4468 posted:

Homer Simpson taught me that alcohol is the solution to every problem...

Must be a different Homer Simpson. My Homer always used Donuts.

But you might be right, not sure how you would clean track with Donuts....

@Dallas Joseph posted:

This was a great build Bob.                What creativity !                What a great construct on the details !              What a good looking color combo !               What a great looking functional piece !                    It looks like it could be a no-frills real RR car ( not sure what it would do .......but who cares  ).               Gotta be the best looking rail cleaning car I've ever seen .

Really like the photo of it on the layout .

Thanks for keeping us updated through the whole build process.

Thanks Dallas.

This was the prototype I based the car on. The blue is a little bit lighter than the 1:1 but close enough for government work as the old saying goes.

@RSJB18 posted:

Thanks Dallas.

This was the prototype I based the car on. The blue is a little bit lighter than the 1:1 but close enough for government work as the old saying goes.

Yeah Bob, they probably didn't get the code right on theirs.

I've been using my modified Lionel 3927  I made last year, maybe it's the weight but just running it with the scotch bright pad  first then wipe it down is all I need to do  the round wiping disk works ...daniel

@chris a posted:

I am only using the No OX on the center blackened rail.   If you watch this video about track cleaning it will help describe proper use and application.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lBYxjcTWCB0

Thanks, the video was very informative

  I am assuming that No-Ox has a chemical reaction to the rubber traction tires

@DAVID PEARSALL 010218 posted:

  I am assuming that No-Ox has a chemical reaction to the rubber traction tires

Looking for that answer too.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

I use the purple pads as well, they last a long time before they lose their effectiveness.

The only Scotch "purple" pads I see say professional, scouring, or extreme scrub.  They don't sound like something I'd want on my Gargraves track.

I've been using these for a very long time, track is fine.  The relatively light weight pressure of a track cleaning car is a whole lot different than forced scrubbing of a surface.

John,  Thank you.  When I searched for "purple pad" these did not come up.  Ordered them for my Trackmans.

John I think you just answered my question. I am just laying down some Gargraves for the first time and the comments about being careful not to use an abrasive on the middle rail had me cautious about the scotch-brite pads on all these cars.

Paul

I keep thinking  we are going about the rail cleaning business the wrong way.

What's causing the rails to get dirty?

What makes contact with the rails to crude them up?

ANSWER: the truck wheels.

So we need to have an automated way to clean the wheels before we invest hundreds in dirt spreading rail cars.

Unfortunately, there are no wheel cleaning systems for O-Guage.

@AlanRail posted:

I keep thinking  we are going about the rail cleaning business the wrong way.

What's causing the rails to get dirty?

What makes contact with the rails to crude them up?

ANSWER: the truck wheels.

So we need to have an automated way to clean the wheels before we invest hundreds in dirt spreading rail cars.

Unfortunately, there are no wheel cleaning systems for O-Guage.

What causes the rails to get the black crud?  Answer:

https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/black-gunk-12186610

The secret to cleaning track and wheels:

https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws...ne/index.html?page=9

This info is in so many threads I thought everyone was aware of it by now...

Tom Stoltz

in Maine

@RJR posted:

New Haven Joe, how do you hand clean the NE trains track cleaning pads?  I've had some soaking in Dawn detergent & water, and can't seem to dent the grime.

I soak the pads with Dawn dishwasher fluid and then rinse them under warm running water scrubbing the pads with my fingers until I can't see any black crud run off.  I let them air dry.  The pads still have some black stain but are clean enough for track cleaning purposes.  I have used the some of the same pads for 10 years.  I also use both sides of a pad before cleaning it.  

The G&O is a large outdoor 3-rail railroad.  The track is always dirty from day to day.  The wind blows dust on the track and the sprinkler system turns it to mud.  Ants and other bugs use the track as a freeway.  Leaves and crud falls on the track.

We can't easily reach all of the track.  The Northeast track cleaning car with Goo Gone works very well.  An engine pushes two track cleaning cars ahead of it to clean the track over the entire layout including all the sidings.

We put Goo Gone on the first pad of the lead track cleaning car.  Isopropyl alcohol is put on the second pad of the lead car.  The second car, next to the pusher engine, has dry pads.  As you can see, the pads get very dirty.  We found that the combination of Goo Gone and isopropyl alcohol worked better than either product alone.  

We have tried CR-26, WD-40 and some other cleansers.  They cleaned the track will but they made track slippery.  Engines had trouble getting up our mountain grades when we used those cleaners.  This doesn't happen with the Goo Gone / isopropyl alcohol combination.    

We only have to run the track cleaning train once a day at the beginning of a run session or train show.   It takes about 15 minutes to clean all the track on the layout because we run the track cleaning train at a high speed.  There are no other engines or cars on the display when the track cleaning train is running.  The track cleaning engine is a Williams conventional NH SD-40.  NH Joe

@New Haven Joe posted:

Looks familiar.

Full disclosure, this was the first trip around the layout after a misguided cleaning with the wrong alcohol (70%). I use GooGone.

I've since cleaned these pads and still use them.

Bob

@Dallas Joseph posted:

Yeah Bob, they probably didn't get the code right on theirs.

Thanks, Dave

@Danr posted:

I have used it for about two years with no complains.  I wipe the tracks (Fastrack) every 1-2 months.  I use both Legacy and DCS and can run dead slow everywhere on the layout.

Good morning, does the Track Magic affect the rubber traction tires