well dont know if theirs an answer for this hence why im asking it here but i wanted to know is there a transformer that i could use that can control ac and dc trains or is the only way to do that is to buy a rectifier ?
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Interesting question. I don't think there is. What type of DC trains are you looking to run?
Hmmm, not on the same track at the same time. However, some trains will run on both power sources. The new Lionel and some of the MTH run on either AC or DC. I think the LionChief RTR sets may come with a DC power pack. Also, I have run my prewar 390e with a Bridgewerks Mag 15 (DC) and an LGB throttle. It may actually run a little more reliably on DC.
George
George right. That's what I was getting at. Need to know what combination of trains he is wanting to run. LionChief and LionChief plus run on ac or dc (interesting situation) Not sure if that is what the OP is meaning.
Jim
im not running lionchief i mainly run postwar and prewar
gman18 posted:... postwar and prewar
AC is all you need then.
If you run postwar and prewar, then why do you need DC?
I happen to have some G gauge trains, and it would be nice to not have to invest in separate power supplies. The BridgeWerks transformer is primarily DC but has a 24 volt AC output. That's too much voltage for prewar and postwar trains, and there isn't a good throttle/controller available to handle and cap that much AC voltage.
George
Years ago Lionel made a converter for their transformers so the AC O gauge transformer could run the HO DC trains. It includes a rectifier and reverse switch. Maybe you could find one of these on E bay or someplace. I think there were several different versions, so do not just search for a single item number.
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There were some dc only trains before Lionel/MPC, just not many.
A bridge rectifier is small and cheap in comparison to a new power supply. It will change your ac output to dc. You could use a switch to add it or remove it from your track circuit. In this application I'd oversize it somewhat, matching amp/volts to the transformers output ( a bridge rectifier= four diodes "in a circle").(over 35v & 6a-16amp depending on the transformer)
To reverse a dc train, you also need a double throw double pull toggle to reverse the + & - connections.
Basically this is recreating the 0150 with modern parts, which will likely be smaller and cheaper in comparison and have a much higher output. The 0150 is rated at only 1.5 amps; for smaller ho size motors.
Mounting a B.R. in each dc loco is another option.
You can't use an ac whistle tender with a dc train 
It will never stop blowing 
I've got a Lionel 0100 knocking about the house which puts out DC power to the tracks and AC accessory power. Drop me a line if you're interested... 
Mitch
Those Lionel Recti-volt rectifiers were like magic back in the 1960's, but if I was going to use mine for anything more than a curiosity piece I would bypass the original copper oxide / selenium inside the case and insert a 6-10 watt bridge rectifier.
I run O scale DC and some AC trains on Atlas 3 rail track. I use an MTH Z4000. I left the left side stay as AC but I added a bridge rectifier (to convert the AC to DC) and a toggle switch (to change direction) on the right side. I connected the AC wires to the inside rail and 1 outside rail and then connected the DC wires to each outside rail. I can't run AC trains and DC trains together but at least I didn't have to buy a separate power source to run.
Rick
SNCF231E, pardon me, I am not an electrical guru, but how do you get AC out of your rectifier?
Rick
RICKC posted:SNCF231E, pardon me, I am not an electrical guru, but how do you get AC out of your rectifier?
Rick
There are two switches in his box. The switch on the bottom of the schematic bypasses the bridge rectifier.
George
Here is a writeup on a Lionel dc engine converted to ac.
"The second General 4-4-0 obtained was a cheap Lionel General 4-4-0, 8005 dc powered set with coal tender and Lionel 9541 Santa Fe Railway Agency Express Passenger car. I added a full wave rectifier and changed the Lionel 8005 to ac operation although in one direction. A selector switch was added for manual reversal. The engine was dressed up with gold stripping, a lighted head light and painting all red engine black for the boiler and stack.
A fuzzy picture of Lionel 8005 before painting and dressing up!
The Lionel 8005 was painted, along with the red and silver front wheels and painted domes. The body and stack were painted Black. Gold stripping was added to dress up. Much more beautiful !"
Here is a link to the OGR topic this came from
https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...ra-027-layout?page=5
Charle
I've got a Lionel 0100 knocking about the house which puts out DC power to the tracks and AC accessory power. Drop me a line if you're interested...
Nice transformer that looks very similar to a 1044. The whistle control is replaced by the D.C. direction switch.
sncf231e, how did you make that cause i would like to make one but i need to know a few things one did you make it like just put it together and then just started using it? 2. what transformer would you recommend to use with that box and will it work with any rectifier? and 3. what kind of voltage dose it put out
Back in the 40's American Flyer made a RECTIFORMER that had both AC & DC outputs but not at the same time. There was a jumper wire that determined the type of output. CTT did an article about it many, many years ago.
gman18 posted:sncf231e, how did you make that cause i would like to make one but i need to know a few things one did you make it like just put it together and then just started using it? 2. what transformer would you recommend to use with that box and will it work with any rectifier? and 3. what kind of voltage dose it put out
I made this box for my garden layout; I run AC and DC trains which need quite some power. The Lionel ZW I used could give this power (I ran for instance LGB DC trains on it). But the box can be used with any AC transformer.
I described this box some years ago on the British 0 gauge forum: https://www.classicogauge.net/...c.php?f=32&t=982
About the rectifier: The Ampere rating of the rectifier should be such that when a short occurs the fuse/circuitbreaker of the transformer will break, since the box does not have its own fuse; so the rating of the rectifier should be considered against the power of the AC transformer used.
I used the box with a Lionel ZW transformer; this is a 275 Watt transformer with four separate outputs. At 18 volt I assume these will never give a track amperage of more then 15, so I assumed to be save with 25A.
I mentioned the Radio Shack part numbers in the diagram. Note that also the wiring should be thick enough, as you can see in the picture of the inside of the box, such that it can stand the high amperage when using a ZW.
The DC voltage will be about 70% of the AC voltage; so if you set the AC transformer to 20 V the DC voltage will be 14 V.
Regards
Fred
sncf231e, can i hook the box up to a transformer and the other end to a track clip on or do i have to connect it straight to the track?
The 2 wires called "AC input" on the drawing you just connect to the output of the AC transformer (it does not matter which wire to which post); the 2 wires called "AC or DC output" on the drawing you connect to the track; it does not matter whether you use a track clip or not. In general I myself solder wires to a track and do not use track clips. Of course it helps to mark the input and output on the box as I did (note I used the word IN for Input and UIT for Output, these are Dutch words):
Regards
Fred
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Hi Fred,
What gauge wire did you use in the box ?
Bill Decker
As far as I know wire gauge is not a measurement used here (in Netherlands). I bought the wire at an automotive shop. The external measurement is 3 mm and the stranded wire is 1.5 mm. As far as I looked up on the internet that is AWG #15.
Regards
Fred
Lionel once made a small transformer #4060 that could output either AC or DC voltage by sliding a switch. One is for sale here with a DC locomotive.
Larry
Having both AC and DC power available to a layout is very convenient. A little known fact is that most AC OGauge locos will run better on DC. DC is also better for most accessories.
Ive read ac run on DC some coils can become polarized easier over time and get weak or sticky. It doesn't stop me; just sayin'
Fred your Euro wire gauge measurements are just plain Metric vs AWG Gauge. There isn't an actual 15g over here (but some metric can be had). I'd go with 14g a tad larger than "15g".
The more oversized the BRect. the cooler it will remain. 25a is pretty safe on a big unit. I use 8mp for a 1033. If reversing at the throttle isn't needed, a B.R. alone will give DC for one direction.
