Is there reason why a newer DCS remote would not power up? Thought it was eating batteries but after testing am not sure

Don't know why the remote is doing that, but you can do a backup of that remote and restore the configuration to another working remote.

My guess is it's discharging them when it's not in use, that's something that occasionally happens with stuff that doesn't have a physical power interruption with the power key at times.

I'd try a factory reset on the remote after the backup and see if that stops the behavior.

I get almost one year of use out of a fresh set of Duracell's.

One button that sticks for people is the mic button. If you don't use that maybe another one is sticking? ...&

Do you power down after a session or do you just let it time out?

Do you have the remote's settings turned way up? (like the back light or time out?)

Test your batteries when you put them in and when they come out, and state here what the voltage is.

Something is odd.

I believe the remote acts up when they get below something like 1.2 volts (each)? I forget exactly but I have tested mine for reference.

I've gotten stale batteries that did not last.

If your batteries going in aren't really fresh, they maybe have you searching for a problem.

I know there used to be an issue where when running TMCC engines using the DCS remote, that if you left it on the TMCC engine with out backing out a screen to the engine list or on a mth engine, it wouldn’t shut off automatically, and draining your batteries.  I am not sure if this still exists with the latest software.

anytime your remote is not acting normally the FIRST THING to do is replace the batteries immediately the remote starts getting erratic and not consistent when battery voltage start to drop off, always put in a fresh set if not acting normally. There was a test rig that a ASC techs built to test batteries and also charge remote batteries if you choose to use rechargeable  batteries in remote. search on this forum you might find the test rig A ASC tech built many year ago !

John, I take it backing up a remote's data involves the loader program via transfer data into a computer, or can it be transferred directly to another remote via cord?

Joe, I always power down, and the batteries were brand new.

@Paul Kallus - I suspect gremlins are running your trains and draining your DCS remote batteries while you sleep.

@Paul Kallus posted:

John, I take it backing up a remote's data involves the loader program via transfer data into a computer, or can it be transferred directly to another remote via cord?

Correct, you need to do it via the computer with the remote tethered to the TIU.

@Paul Kallus posted:

Joe, I always power down, and the batteries were brand new.

Yes, I figured that. I would say that you need to test the batteries when installing to see just how fresh they are. New, doesn't mean they always have full charge left in them. On sale, usually means they are old!

Joe, I just tested the batteries...all four AAA Energizers that came out of the remote are testing around 1.4 volts DC. I also tested brand new batteries out of the Energizer package and they come in around 1.55 to 1.59 volts DC. So, something is amiss in this remote...it apparently needs batteries at the full brand-new voltage just to power on.

BTW: I also tested the batteries in my original DCS remote...they're registering around 1.1 volts DC, and that remote (older vintage) operates just dandy.

Am puzzled at this...I suppose I need to amend the title of this thread...but am at a loss of what to say?!

fwiw: I only buy new packages of Energizer batteries at Walmart or Lowes. I gave up Duracell a couple of years ago due to leakage in TV/Cable remotes.

I would reload the remote software.

My main remote had so many old consists built under older DCS versions, that I reset it and started over. I did house cleaning inside a few times but I think there were missing addresses and other weird things going on. It was full and I was using all the addresses available.

Now, I also moved all G scale to a dedicated remote helping to free up those used addresses.

I also noticed a brief time that new batteries went dead on me. Because I was resetting and changing remotes, I wasn't sure what exactly happened. I attributed it to all the moving and work with the remote. Batteries seem to be fine now.

This may be more hassle than you bargained for but when I've run across similar problems, I'd measure the battery current (in milliAmps) under different operating conditions.  For example, measure current when: supposedly turned OFF, on doing "nothing", back-light on/off, etc. Then compare to a different remote that doesn't pre-maturely drain the batteries.

The trick is you need to break a connection in the battery circuit to insert the meter leads.  In the photo, I show a thin piece of 2-sided copper circuit board.  There is a thin insulating layer so the two outer conducting layers are electrically isolated.  Wires are attached to the two outer layers.  This piece is inserted in the battery pack.  This allows you to measure the DC current using any meter so-equipped.  Obviously if you simply "short" the two wires then it's normal operation.

Most guys don't have scrap thin two layer circuit board material lying around...but I've made similar test "fixtures" using adhesive copper-foil on a thin piece of cardstock (insulating layer)...or even aluminum foil if you can make the electrical connection to the meter probes.

In any case, I'd be really curious about the "OFF" current as was suggested by someone earlier.  When shut off, a circuit like this should draw less than 1 uA (microAmp).

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Separately, if your only measuring tool is a voltmeter, I suppose one could concoct some scheme to get a crude quantitative measure of what's going on.  For example, you could measure the same battery in the suspect remote and a known-good remote under the same conditions.  The idea is the measured battery voltage will be lower if the current draw is higher...due to the internal resistance of the battery.  Again, it's crude and arguably bordering on a snipe hunt (a.k.a. wild-goose chase), but like they say - if your only tool is a hammer, all problems look like nails!

If you only have a voltmeter, you can just stick a resistor between those insulated contacts and measure the voltage drop.  With a 100K resistor, 1 microamp would be .1 volts.

But a 100K resistor might set you back 2 cents (if you can buy just 1).  I purposely showed the "FREE with Coupon" Harbor Freight meter which as shown has a 200 uA scale...0.1uA resolution in the right-most digit!  That's my 2 cents worth!  LOL.

Joe, reloading software is a major PITA for me...what is the logic behind re-loading 6.10? Gunrunnerjohn has been helping with this as I cannot use my laptop for such purposes...but it is not doable for the foreseeable future and I don't know if GRJ is even hosting visitors yet.

Stan: I can try to check the voltage and amperage...if I understand right when in the "off" position the reading should be < 1 uamp? Would there be an expected voltage when in the "off" position?

I do want reiterate that it appears the batteries are not being drained per se, but that they need to be brand new (>=1.5 volts DC) in order for the remote to power up.

It has to be one or the other. Hardware or software. If the remote's hardware is working correctly, then it has to be software related, right?

You do what you can at your end. I only suggested what I would(, and I can) do. If you can't, as you now stated, I understand.

Maybe the remote needs to go to someone for a closer look if this doesn't get resolved.

I'm out.

I'm sure we could arrange a field trip to load the latest software and maybe even take a look at what is going on.   If you load the current software, it's really best to load it in all the units, TIU's and remotes you have at the same time.  Odd things happen occasionally with mis-matched software versions.

John, I believe you loaded 6.10 into the TIUs and the remotes last year...but if you think reloading 6.10 into the remote is worth a try we can give it a go as they say...would just have to coordinate a time.

Joe and John, so I am clear, should a software "reload" go first, or should I do a remote reset first and wait a few weeks to see if it keeps working? Obviously, I can do a remote reset myself.

@Paul Kallus posted:

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Stan: I can try to check the voltage and amperage...if I understand right when in the "off" position the reading should be < 1 uamp? Would there be an expected voltage when in the "off" position?

I do want reiterate that it appears the batteries are not being drained per se, but that they need to be brand new (>=1.5 volts DC) in order for the remote to power up.

If practical, can you measure the 4x battery voltage of the remote when OFF and when ON?

Example above shows the 4x batteries reading 6.0V.

For the SAME 4 batteries in two different remotes (the 'bad' one and a known-good one).  What is the voltage measurement when the remote is "OFF" and when the remote has been turned "ON"?

Obviously the "OFF" measurements should be the same for same set of 4 batteries placed in either remote.

I only suggest this because I figure it only takes a few minutes to try.  Ideally, I'd want to measure the current of the different remotes but cobbling together a current measuring widget as I described earlier can take more than a few minutes.

My suspicion is the 'bad' remote is drawing an unusually large amount of current though not clear under what circumstances it does so.  And to be clear, when you refer to measured battery voltage is this with connected to a generic multimeter...or a multimeter with a Battery-Test mode that puts a LOAD on the battery when measuring voltage?

Addendum: by way of example, in above remote with power OFF the battery voltage measured 6.0V.  Turning on the remote and waiting a few seconds for the screen to display version number, scan for TIU's, etc. and reach a "stable" screen the voltage dropped to 5.9V.  Turning on the back light (B/L button) further dropped the voltage to 5.3V.