Ives 1122 Project

great job George! on the cab corner...how about a piece of tin, shaped to the curve of the roof...and add JB for attachment and thickness?

Steamer posted:

great job George! on the cab corner...how about a piece of tin, shaped to the curve of the roof...and add JB for attachment and thickness?

That's what I am thinking Dave. I need to check the gauge of the stock. Then, bending, shaping and machining, all with hand tools. 

George

I've got a spare 225E shell with a broken window...might have to give that shot.

I spent all day working on the motor. After worrying that I smoked my armature, I finally found a schematic for wiring that got me close to getting it working. The e-unit is finicky. It needs 14v to work, and then the engine launches and falls off my curves. I have the shell off, which is part of the problem. It needs some weight. 

Now I just need to track down a short in the e-unit, and it should work. Pictures tomorrow of my wiring. 

George

I have one of those 1122's but it is missing an idler gear andI don't think I have seen one in any of the parts stores.  

For the idler gear, If Henning's or Port Lines does not have it, I have used in the past David Trickel. Page 38 in his catalog lists #I011 intermediate gear(limited stock). No picture so? No website ether. phone #615-630-1836. I have not contacted him in a few years so I hope he is still making parts for prewar Ives, American Flyer, Lionel and some imports. 

Chris

Finally got her working after lots of adjustments to the e-unit wipers. The cloth wrapped wire is from Chuck's Trains. It's black not purple like it looks in the photo. I also used friction tape instead of vinyl electrical tape.

Now to try to fix the wheel socket so I can attach the side rods.

George

George S posted:

Here is my Ives 1122 steam engine project.

The rear of the window frame was broke on one side. I fixed it with some bar stock and JB Weld.

The pilot was broken. I replaced it with a cast part from Hennings, attached again with JB Weld.

It needs some cleaning. Need to get my queue tips out!

Here is the motor. I haven't seen too many with an electric reverse unit like this. I ordered some cloth wrapped wire and will be rewiring it, because of cracked and rotted insulation. There is a bypass for the e-unit attached. However, it makes the engine run in reverse. Does anyone know if this is original and how it is supposed to be mounted? It was hanging loose in the cab.

I also have a broken screw socket on a wheel. I have not found a replacement wheel. I think there is enough thread left to JB Weld the screw in place, but it's a gamble.

My only other problem is that one corner of the cab roof is broke off. I could fix it it I could find a piece to fit. That might just need to stay broken...

George

Maybe drill that boss slightly oversize and then JB weld a brass tube in there from K&S or something similar, then tap the tube for your side rod screw.  I think that would work, and be strong and you probably could not tell once complete.

Just went and looked at my 1122 parts, four broken cabs, three steam chests, broken cow catchers, one mechanism, no reverse unit, no side rods and the missing idler gear.  I did just realize that I do have several Ives electric outline motors in parts and the idler gear on those looks the same...  May have to look closer on that.  Might be able to put it back together after all.

Nice work on yours George, it looks good and runs great!

Dennis Holler posted:

George S posted:

Here is my Ives 1122 steam engine project.

 

The rear of the window frame was broke on one side. I fixed it with some bar stock and JB Weld.

 

The pilot was broken. I replaced it with a cast part from Hennings, attached again with JB Weld.

 

It needs some cleaning. Need to get my queue tips out!

 

Here is the motor. I haven't seen too many with an electric reverse unit like this. I ordered some cloth wrapped wire and will be rewiring it, because of cracked and rotted insulation. There is a bypass for the e-unit attached. However, it makes the engine run in reverse. Does anyone know if this is original and how it is supposed to be mounted? It was hanging loose in the cab.

 

I also have a broken screw socket on a wheel. I have not found a replacement wheel. I think there is enough thread left to JB Weld the screw in place, but it's a gamble.

My only other problem is that one corner of the cab roof is broke off. I could fix it it I could find a piece to fit. That might just need to stay broken...

George

Maybe drill that boss slightly oversize and then JB weld a brass tube in there from K&S or something similar, then tap the tube for your side rod screw.  I think that would work, and be strong and you probably could not tell once complete.

That could work. I'm a little concerned about the thickness of the casting to drill out. I'll need to check out some brass tube stock.

I am trying to create a JB Weld casting on the outside around the screw. I used some shoe polish as a release agent on the screw, but I am not sure I got enough on.

I also read in another thread that Ives electric loco wheels are the same and just not tapped for side rods. I may find a beater electric. for parts. It look like the idler gear and drive gear are the same. I wonder if the electrics have the same gear. If so, we could get a beater and split the parts?

George

Dennis Holler posted:

Just went and looked at my 1122 parts, four broken cabs, three steam chests, broken cow catchers, one mechanism, no reverse unit, no side rods and the missing idler gear.  I did just realize that I do have several Ives electric outline motors in parts and the idler gear on those looks the same...  May have to look closer on that.  Might be able to put it back together after all.

Nice work on yours George, it looks good and runs great!

Hennings has the cow catchers. They call them pilots, but I don't think cow catchers is wrong. They have a few left. They are under MEW Ives O gauge. They need a little machining to fit right. Good old Dremel will do the trick. 

If one of those cabs has an unbroken left rear roof corner, I will make you a deal for it.  I can cut it and JB Weld it in place, sand, paint and just like new. 

George

I'll take a look at the cabs.  They are all broken, but there are pieces lol.  

Dennis Holler posted:

Just went and looked at my 1122 parts, four broken cabs, three steam chests, broken cow catchers, one mechanism, no reverse unit, no side rods and the missing idler gear.  I did just realize that I do have several Ives electric outline motors in parts and the idler gear on those looks the same...  May have to look closer on that.  Might be able to put it back together after all.

Nice work on yours George, it looks good and runs great!

Hoarder........

Dennis Holler posted:

I'll take a look at the cabs.  They are all broken, but there are pieces lol.  

I only need a triangle off the corner, an inch and a half maybe. I can measure it. 

Steamer posted:

Dennis Holler posted:

Just went and looked at my 1122 parts, four broken cabs, three steam chests, broken cow catchers, one mechanism, no reverse unit, no side rods and the missing idler gear.  I did just realize that I do have several Ives electric outline motors in parts and the idler gear on those looks the same...  May have to look closer on that.  Might be able to put it back together after all.

Nice work on yours George, it looks good and runs great!

Hoarder........

Yeah, I think you know me pretty well by now lol

Looks pretty organized...

Think I have one I can send you but it is pretty bad. Last pic is the you would get. Is there enough left to fix yours?

George S posted:

Looks pretty organized...

Lol, I love shoe boxes to store a loco and tender project in. Black Sharpie gives me a label.  Now if only the wife would get tbe kids shoes that came in uniform shoe boxes, I would be good to go.  Hey, you look like you need a TycoPro slotcar set or two!

The second and third ones from the right will work.

Send me an email with a price.

George

Dennis Holler posted:

Think I have one I can send you but it is pretty bad. Last pic is the you would get. Is there enough left to fix yours?

That one would work.

George

I think my casting worked. Screw came out easy.

Will have to see how it holds up with side rod pressure.

George

Started attaching side rods and found another broken wheel screw socket. Not sure how I missed that, but another repair is coming. 

George

Thanks to Dennis Holler, I was able to get a piece of a roof to start the cab roof repair. After cutting and grinding the part to fit, I glued it in place with JB Weld.

The clamp in the picture is holding a piece of scrap copper stock to support the roof while it is drying for the next 24 hours!  I also have a piece of painter's tape on the underside to keep the JB Weld and parts in place. The nice thing about JB Weld is that it is sandable and paintable. It works well with the cast metal parts.  Tomorrow I will lightly grind down and sand the JB Weld to finish the repair making sure to keep the roof ridge lines. Then, a quick coat of black gloss paint and she will be ready.

The wheel repair seems to be holding. The wheels spin freely and the siderods don't bind. We'll see if they hold up under running conditions. 

George

Here is the finished roof repair.

With paint.

George

looks great George!@

That looks great George!  And that is why we save some junk! 😎

Nice job George.

Looks like you did a great job on the section of the roof and getting this steamer running again.

I know you painted the cab roof, is the rest the original paint? If yes, it looks pretty good. 

Where did you originally find this loco? 

Tom 

MNCW posted:

Nice job George.

Looks like you did a great job on the section of the roof and getting this steamer running again.

I know you painted the cab roof, is the rest the original paint? If yes, it looks pretty good. 

Where did you originally find this loco? 

Tom 

 

I think a lot of the paint is original. It was pretty nicked up. I am using black automotive touchup paint to fill in the nicks. With the cast body, I don't think a full strip and repaint will improve the appearance much, and it's a lot of work to get all the trim off. 

I ran her this morning on a test loop. She went through forward, neutral, reverse, neutral and forward again. Then, she got stuck in neutral and I haven't been able to get her out of it. I had her pulling the tender, a 125 car and the 121 caboose, but the train was drawing 17 volts and 3.5 amps. That is too high.  The headlight was not super bright either, so where was that power going? I think the e-unit might be bad. When I was testing it, it needed 15 volts to cycle. It may have a marginal coil. There is a switch to lock the e-unit out, but I need to get the e-unit drum rotated to forward. I hate to disassemble it, since I have everything lined up just right and some of the mounting screws are almost stripped.

I'll try to get her running right and post a video.

George

Tom,

I forgot to mention, I won it at auction. It was part of a lot with passenger cars in a recent Stout event. They had three or four of these in various lots. I actually bid on the wrong one and noticed afterward that this one was a little beat up. One went for about $25 less, but that one had a mechanical reverse lever. Maybe that would have been better , but I think the e-unit versions are worth a little more.

George

I was able to use a wire to manually advance the e-unit drum. It sticks in a couple of places. Once I got it locked in forward, I realized the engine stopped after a few feet. The left siderod screw tightens up and binds. It also broke my JB Weld repair on that wheel. I can screw the screw into what remains of the socket. I think I need to glue the screw in place instead of trying to fix the wheel. I will use some wax paper to protect the siderods while the epoxy dries. 

Once that is done, I think the e-unit will be satisfactory. The problem with the e-unit always happened when the siderod stopped the train from going forward. Anyway, that's some progress.

George

The wheel fix worked, and now that the siderod isn't binding, the e-unit works fine. Voltage is down to 15 volts. She still draws 2.5 amps. Here's a couple videos on the test track.

George

   That is fantastic!

Great restoration George, you have done a terrific job on that loco. Congratulations

great job George!

A little update, based on my success with the help of forum members on my Ives electric, I took another look at my 1122. I found a side-rod binding where it connects to the frame. It only was binding every other rotation. It had a bent screw, which I adjusted. I also took another shot at cleaning the gears and axels and I re-lubed everything. She now runs at about 11 volts and flies at 13 volts. She is also pulling much lower amps. I need to load her up with freight to see how she does under load.

George