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Question for anyone who can help, I’m going to be upgrading my locomotives to J&W BCR 2 batteries. After reading the description it says they don’t come charged and you need to put it in neutral to be charged. I was always told that if you put a battery with no charge in any locomotive and apply track power you will blow the board and it’s game over. I run a Z4000 transformer in conventional mode and when I apply track power it goes into neutral upon putting the power switch on and putting the throttle up and the lights sound ect activate on the locomotive. Just want to make sure I don’t smoke my locomotives......

Last edited by Kasey534
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The BCRs are not batteries but capacitors that discharge over time.  The downside of using them is if the engine has not had power on it after a couple of hours, you need to recharge it by waiting a minute for it to charge.  Kind of a hassle if you want to switch on power and immediately start running your trains.  The upside is they never go bad (supposedly).

PS1 and PS2 5 volts systems use the BCR 1 while PS2 3 volt systems use the BCR 2.  Make sure you get the correct one.  PS3 engines were built with a capacitor.

Most of my PS2 engines now have BCRs.

Last edited by CAPPilot

Lot of mis info.  There is no correlation that has been proved that a low battery will blow boards.  Even so that was only applicable for 5V boards.  The BCR2 is for PS-2 3V boards.

You can scramble a PS-1 engine with a BCR if you try to come out of reset before the BCR is fully charged.  It would act just like a low battery.  But again early PS-1 susceptible to this, the 97 and later not as much.

Use your BCR.  For 3 V boards when the BCR is not fully charged to run the engine in conventional, you will have reduced volume.  Once BCR charges up to about 2.4V (same as battery) volume will go back to normal.  It will hold charge for quite a while, but when first received it will take longer to reach full charge. G

I just ordered 12 BCR 2 and 2 BCR 9v, from what I’ve been reading they are far better than the mth batteries and prevent the boards from going kablamo!!!!! My dad and I spent 2 days taking apart the locomotives to remove the batteries and I’ll tell you what a pain to access some of them were. He at one point was ready to throw an engine or two against the wall. I was biting my cheek trying not to laugh. But I’m glad I’m making the switch. 250 bucks well spent!!!!! Plus it supports small business

I would never use a regular alkaline Battery (Duracell included) as a permanent replacement.  I have used a regular 9 volt battery to test an engine but never left them in for an operating session. These type of batteries (alkaline) are not rechargeable and may cause damage to the charging circuit of your engine if used for prolonged amounts of time. Suitable NiMH 8.4 batteries can be found almost anywhere online these days and at most hardware stores.

@Danr posted:

The Lionel manual clearly states to insert and alkaline battery.  The circuit does not charge the battery.  Having said that, I never put batteries in my Lionel locomotives; they work fine without them and there is no point in risking a leaky battery.

Quite a number of Legacy steam has an issue where a power interruption causes the sound to cut out and frequently requires a power cycle to bring it back.  That's why I use batteries in my Lionel.  Well, I don't use batteries, I use something that will never leak and doesn't need replacement.   YLB - RailSounds Battery Replacement

Quite a number of Legacy steam has an issue where a power interruption causes the sound to cut out and frequently requires a power cycle to bring it back.  That's why I use batteries in my Lionel.  Well, I don't use batteries, I use something that will never leak and doesn't need replacement.   YLB - RailSounds Battery Replacement

I don’t use batteries but, if I did, they would be the YLB.🍻

Last edited by Danr

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