Update- Jep steam loco 222- Fixed drive wheel

Just to clarify a little the story of that 222 JEP.

The first models produced pre-war have a tender with NORD stamped on their sides. The french nationalized railways, the SNCF, where created in 1938 so after that date the stamping was changed to SNCF on the tender sides.

On the first models the wheels where fixed with brass nuts, they are not easy at all to remove and you have to be careful doing it. this system has also been used post war during the first years of re manufacturing, i think during a short time. That is the ones you have on your model. There is different motor types, S57 is the more common with a reversing lever on the top of the boiler. Also only one center pick up.

After the motor was change to the S59 type with pressed wheels. They differ a little from the previous ones, and the gears are also different. The loco was equipped with two pick up for the center rail. Fred's model is a very good illustration of a typical post war one.

About the cars it seems that the first ones produces, stamped NORD on their side where fitted with brass buffers. After 1938 they are stamped SNCF as the engine. You can also find on those cars brass nickeled buffers. in fact there is a lot of variations and there where never any serious study of all the variations.

Some of those cars are varnished but, as Fred mention the orange over-spray is not original. The original ones varnished tens to turn in a yellow color. The most common ones are only painted bright. There is also two different models of bogies, the most common ones are yours.

So it can figure a set from the 1939-1948 period ..... approximately......

Very best,    Daniel

Here is a little update on my JEP 222.  As above I had a broken drive wheel.  I had questioned how the drive wheels on this early loco were installed on the axles.  I thought the hex shaped insert was some sort of nut and perhaps the wheels were threaded.  One of them was extremely wobbly.   I am not sure if the wheel and brass insert were pressed together or if the wheel was cast around the insert but they were supposed to be locked together as a rib in the wheel hub area fit in the groove on that hub.  I contemplated two types of fix.  One was cheap and quick and the other would be complex.  I opted for the quick one and if that failed I would tackle the complex one.

Cheap and easy fix:  Simple... Try some J B Weld ala Steamer Dave.  So far it looks to have worked.

Complex fix:  If the JB Weld fails, I would turn a new round stepped hub on my lathe and then over bore the wheel hub and press the two together.  This would also allow me to make some new brass or bronze bushings for the axles.  Maybe next time.

Also note a few other details. 1) The wheel gear is large enough it will jumpity jump through 022 switches.  I think that with the later S59 motors this is not the case.

I still have a lot of work to do on this guy but I am happy that it now runs reliably.  I'm on the lookout for a set of siderods or I'll make some for the time being.  I also am planning to make pilot and trailing trucks using some Lionel spoked trailing truck wheels ( the smaller postwar ones like in a 4 wheel trailing truck on a 2035). This will get me close to a decent looking JEP 222 loco and then I can work on those 37 cm passenger cars.  Thanks to Fred and Daniel for their pictures of the lighting pickups I think I can make some that are pretty close to the originals.

Anyway, here are some pictures to go with the running video I posted on the weekly tinplate thread.


Dennis Holler If its old and broke, I like it


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