K-Line MP15 diesel Rust Issues

I purchased this K-Line MP15 Union Pacific diesel locomotive from a now closed hobby store several years ago, and it began to develop a rust issue around the interior electronics and pick up rollers. The locomotive would not run correctly due to this issue. I separated the locomotive from the rest of my collection (so the rust would not spread) and placed it in a box, and forgot about it. After completing several other projects I have decided to attempt to fix this unit. Any suggestions on how to remove the rust? Thanks!

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Was it new or used? Maybe it was underwater at one time? I have 6 K-line diesels and have not seen any rust on them. If the board is corroding then I would say it went for a swim or stored in a very humid environment. Give it a good cleaning and see how it goes.

Bob

Three Rails Are Better Than None 

To start with, rust does not "spread" from one item to another; it's not a pathogen.

Looks like the loco was submerged in water for a short while, causing some eventual damage, but not enough to totally kill it. Mere "humid environments" (I live in one) are blamed for a host of ills that they do not cause. 

As recommended, clean it (carefully); use a toothbrush or the like on the boards to clean them and remove tiny metal "hairs" that can grow on old circuit boards.

The electronics (it's just a reversing unit) can be replaced easily for $40 - $50. Electric RR Co. or Dallee Electronics. 

Evaporust.  It is easy on most paints. It took two days solid soaking in it to even begin to degrade prewar Marx litho. I would be fairly confident the motors winding lacquer would laugh at it. It can be found most anywhere anymore X-mart to big box DYI.

The water rinse etc. is no big deal if the metal is dried fast and fully. 

For boards I'd just brush it clean, maybe wipe some Evaporust to work on rust stains. Same thing on the water. I used to throw cabinet video game motherboards into dishwashers (no soap...chlorine is bad). Relays and fans are a slight concern; open relay cases after, forced air at fans for 24hrs is usually enough. I always wait 48 hrs before introducing power again.

Penetrating and regular oils with brass brush agitation is the old school way, but I am not so sure how the plastic would like some of those, so that way I'd be breaking it down to parts for sure.

Oil will slow or even prevent rust creep.

"Still trying to not shoot my eye out"

 

"Nursing insomnia one railcar at a time"

My aroma therapy? Smoke Pellets.

 





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