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O-120 minimum to run my new Key FT's are 60" radius.

Erik - Regarding your statement in the CZ coupling thread.  

 

The FT's really hook up tight!  Did the D&RGW FT's use drawbar or coupler between the A & B?  I think it was a coupler, but I could be wrong.  

 

The Santa Fe units have all couplers (as prototypical).  Dummy couplers between the A and B, Kadees between the two B's.  Coupling the A & B is a bear.  Any ideas on how to ease the coupling experience?

 

That C&NW FT is another handsome unit.

Howard, those ATSF units are all equipped with couplers; ATSF refused drawbars. Most roads used the drawbar connection between the A/B. Most dumped that practice as you know early on. My #5484 A/B DRGW set was the only pair that remained drawbared assigned to Prospector service until 1964 when traded to EMD. DRGW converted to couplers on all the rest of the FTs and added ballast, re-geared and shoved them into helper service.  Yes tight connections. No 5' gap between these miniatures. The concept is as real as it gets in scale. Most buyers of these fine miniatures are operating on layouts with at least 64" radius so it's not an issue. Even Jeff's modest layout has large enough radius for most any model. My PRB Daylight cars do complain but nothing else does. O/72 is completely out of the question. And even 54" radius or O-108 is too tight for the lion share of scale miniature 1/48 equipment. Yes these new Key units need a minimum of 60" to run.
Last edited by Erik C Lindgren

Radius isn't the issue, I think my minimum is a 72" radius (0-144).  Lowest number turnout is #8.

 

What I'm referring to is the not so simple act of coupling and uncoupling the A and B units.  Uncoupling the back to back B's are easy because they are Kadees.  The A to B unit couplers are dummy couplers.  (I think that's because there isn't enough room for the Kadee box.  

 

It seems like you need to compress the diaphragms to couple or uncouple.  I was wondering if there was a good method that would make it easy and prevent the diaphragms from scratching each other.  I've been slipping paper in between the diaphragms to prevent scratches when coupling.  I've only done so a couple of times.    

Last edited by marker
Yeah it's tough with those dummy couplers. Ugly! I had to O-5-O and contort to connect. Like the PA's too darn realistic! I have a pair of nippers lets just cut that detail off.

I jest!


Originally Posted by marker:

       
Radius isn't the issue, I think my minimum is a 72" radius (0-144).  Lowest number turnout is #8.

What I'm referring to is the not so simple act of coupling and uncoupling the A and B units.  Uncoupling the back to back B's are easy because they are Kadees.  The A to B unit couplers are dummy couplers.  (I think that's because there isn't enough room for the Kadee box. 

It seems like you need to compress the diaphragms to couple or uncouple.  I was wondering if there was a good method that would make it easy and prevent the diaphragms from scratching each other.  I've been slipping paper in between the diaphragms to prevent scratches when coupling.  I've only done so a couple of times.   
Last edited by Erik C Lindgren

Hey Guys ,

          Don't mean to hijack Erik's thread , but if you have an interest in a Rio Grande FT set identical to his - drop a line . Bought a set from Roger a couple weeks ago and now it looks I'm retreating back to New Haven now that the RS-3's are coming . Willing to lose a few hundred on them - out f the box once and never on a track .

          Regards,

          Bryan

Bryan D. posted:

Hey Guys ,

          Don't mean to hijack Erik's thread , but if you have an interest in a Rio Grande FT set identical to his - drop a line . Bought a set from Roger a couple weeks ago and now it looks I'm retreating back to New Haven now that the RS-3's are coming . Willing to lose a few hundred on them - out f the box once and never on a track .

          Regards,

          Bryan

Hi Bryan, how do I get a hold of you about the Rio Grande FT's. Thanks

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