I am in need of a set of coupler assemblies complete (with centering spring) for my Kline Alco diesel. I ordered a pair from Brasseurs, but they are one inch too long, have an extra hole in them, the plastic spring end is straight and needs to be at an angle to fit into the holding slot and of course won't work. Mine are 2.5 inches long complete from tip to tip (from coupler end to "T" shaped end). This must be what is called a "short" version, but I cannot find another part number or picture of it - closest thing I see to it is a Lionel but not sure about it. Can anyone help? Thanks Jack Williams
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I am following this topic - the coupler shank on the Alco diesels is very short and looks nice because of this. The dummy couplers at the rear of the A units are nicely configured for close coupling too. They may have sent you the closest part they had from a S2 or MP15.
You might have to resort to using a non-operating front coupler from a Lionel.
There are so many small details on these Alcos that set them apart from and above their contemporary Lionel counterparts - the whole package just looks, runs, and operates better.
Rob - Thanks so much for your response and info. Will probably resort to the non-operating coupler as you suggested, but keep looking in the meantime. thanks again!
You may have to buy an entire unit from eBay and dedicate it as a parts piece. I've done this with the MP15 parts I've needed.
I think you're right. I found that the correct part # is K-2100-1 (short version) and has been discontinued for quite a while. So far, none of the parts houses have it - maybe i'll get lucky at a train show, etc. thanks
I checked with Brasseur today. The coupler for the S-2 is not available.
Since only the very end (the upright "T" part) had broken, I was able to hot glue the remainder of the "spring" and the coupler centering function was restored. I am going to install this coupler on the front of the switcher so I don't think it will be used as often as the rear coupler.
As an aside, removing the coupler from the chassis does require separating the halves that contain the motor etc. however the "T" piece comes out much more easily if the metal hanger clip is removed first. That requires the tabs on the metal piece to be straightened and the clip pulled up and out. That frees up room in the slot so the "T" will come out without breaking. To reinstall, the clip is pushed back in and the tabs twisted AFTER the "T" piece has passed thru the slot.