L/AF cylindrical hopper scale wheels (?)

Here's my second version of the bolster.  This results in no drilling/filling/tapping the Lionel bolster and plugs the visible gaps: 

I like the newly designed bolster.  Any chance for some dimensions for the parts which I presume are glued to each other and to the car?  Perhaps the thickness, width and length for each part if possible.  I will start making them now so that all will be ready when the car arrives.  Thanks very much......Ed L.

If there was enough interest, it wouldn't be too hard to take the dimensions of your bolster and have them 3D printed.

3D printing is a great idea.  I'd sign up for five cars worth.  Ed L.

I agree.  There just might be a small market for such bolster conversions, particularly if future L/AF cars are so afflicted.

Rusty

Here's how I did it...

1. Using a NWSL Chopper, cut the 11 styrene strips to 2" (builds 6-7 bolsters).

2. Edge glue the three .080" pieces.

3. Edge glue the five .030" pieces.

4. Glue the .030" piece to the .080" assembly using scrap .125" styrene strip as a spacer.

5. Glue the two .030" pieces to the .030" assembly using scrap .080" styrene spacers.

6. Glue the two assemblies together using a scrap .250" styrene spacer.

7. Let dry completely.

8. Using a mitre box, cut a test bolster at a scale 1'6". 

9. Drill 3/32" hole.

10. Carefully drill the 13/64" recess.

11. Glue a 1'6" section of 3/32" tubing.

12. Let dry completely.

13. Drill #50 for the 2-56 screw.  Just deep enough for the screw.

14. Trim and file the bolster as necessary.

15. The 3/32" tubing should be a sufficient friction fit in the Lionel bolster screw opening to secure the new bolster/truck.

16. If satisfied, repeat steps 8-15 for the second bolster, install bolsters on the car and check coupler and ride heights.

Gents....Here is a solution for gauge correction from another list.  Looks pretty easy, but does not address the body height issue.  Ed L.

I installed the regauged wheelset into the truck with the factory wheelset, see attached photo.

The regauged wheelset rolls identical to the factory wheelset.

Matt Hogan

So maybe they just goofed on the gauge? It wouldn't be the first time an importer had this problem. Even Kohs has had this problem in the past. Good to see there is a simple fix.

Some type of puller is required to move the wheels on the axles.  Here's the photo of the regauged wheelsets:

Nice to see some (relatively) easy workable solutions for the issues confronting the scale users of this car. 

Matt (Old Goat) has done us all a great service by sharing his findings and solutions with us all.

Sure beats all the bluster that went on earlier in this thread.

Rusty

So a whole lot to do about nothing in the end. That last pic sure looks like a properly gauged scale wheel set with a scale flange and RP25 contour to me. Perhaps we should thank Lionel for even attempting to offer these scale features rather than beating on them... Are these perfect? no. Are they relatively easy to fix for the 10%-15% that care? Seems so. I'm not sure what the big deal is personally.

Seems to be a compromise high rail wheel.  To wit; the flange is the same as a code 124 wheel, notice it fills the slot, and second the angle/slope on the tread is way too severe.

My 2¢

TCC:}