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T4TT posted:

I really like the bell cord.  It seems like most of my Lionel steamers do not have bell or whistle cords.  Did the original offering have a bell cord?  

The original first run of S3's did not have bell cord.  I also notice the Mars Light is not automatically turned on like the first run unless Trainworld & Marty turned it off before running it.  

The S3 Hiawatha is one neat engine. From the video and pictures the gap between engine and tender is as prototypically accurate as it gets for model trains - which I believe is due to kinematic drawbar feature on this model. I look forward to receiving mine - I think it'll look great pulling my slightly older Lionel aluminum streamliners.

Peter Araujo posted:
T4TT posted:

I really like the bell cord.  It seems like most of my Lionel steamers do not have bell or whistle cords.  Did the original offering have a bell cord?  

The real 261 had a hand rung bell in both revenue, and the early years of excursions. At one point, 261's bell was converted to an electric bell.

You ARE kidding, right? An "electric bell" on a steam locomotive with only 32volts DC for electric light power? Want to bet that the real 261 has an air operated piston on the arm of the bell, thus an air bell ringer?

I was just curious if the S3 that Lionel made a few years ago had the bell cord.  If it did not have a cord, then my hope is that Lionel is starting to add that detail to all of the engines that had manually operated bells.  For those engines that had pneumatically operated bells (like the big boy) I would not like a cord added.  Ultimately, I am hoping the bell cord on the new S3s is a sign of increased attention to detail from Lionel.  

In order to attempt and clear up some of the confusion concerning steam locomotive bells, there are basically three types of bells throughout steam locomotive development:

1) The original swinging bell with corresponding pull cord/rope/cable.

2) A swinging bell that has been up graded with the external air operated double-acting piston, which attaches to part of the bell-crank arm, and thus once the air pressure is "turned on" by the Engineer, causes the bell to swing & ring. Most/many of these types also have a pull cord/rope/cable, in case the bell gets stuck.

3) A ridged bell, either a formerly swing bell that has been modified to non-swinging (like what is on Milwaukee Road #261), with an internal air operated ringer, or the later more modern totally rigid bell (like what is on UP 3900s and 4000s & SP 4449, or a diesel unit) with the internal air operated bell ringer. Both of these types of non-swinging bells usually have the small air supply line going into the very top of the bell (again, like what is on Milwaukee Road #261), and do NOT have any pull rope/cord/cable going to the bell.

RickM46 posted:

Have pre-ordered and been keeping track of the BTO scale Lionel Polar Express Berk 6-84685 that was scheduled to arrive in July ; just checked the Trainworld site and now that has changed to December; well, would be nice to get it before Christmas.

 

Ryan said on the Ryan and Dave show they're about a month or so behind the ones just delivered as they are on the water. Coaches due well before Christmas. 

Last edited by MartyE
Hot Water posted:
Surefire posted:
MartyE posted:
AlanRail posted:

wish they would have added whistle steam to the S3.

ME TOO.

 

And loose the cylinder steam?

Easily. 

Darn right! That "cylinder steam" is a joke, as it doesn't represent prototypical practice, i.e. it doesn't alternate with the piston strokes. Whistle steam is at least believable.

Hot Water posted:
Surefire posted:
MartyE posted:
AlanRail posted:

wish they would have added whistle steam to the S3.

ME TOO.

 

And loose the cylinder steam?

Easily. 

Darn right! That "cylinder steam" is a joke, as it doesn't represent prototypical practice, i.e. it doesn't alternate with the piston strokes. Whistle steam is at least believable.

HOT WATER  ahhhhhhhh for cylinder steam to alternate  front and then back wouldn't they need 2 pistons on each side included in the model ! 

Last edited by StPaul
AmtrakNickFilms posted:

Does anyone have the new regular S3. like 261? If so can anyone send a video? Or pictures 

If anyone has the ability to compare, how does the latest rendition of the S-3 compare to the earlier run, quality-wise? I don't recall if the Lionel factory change occurred after or before the previous run, but IMHO some of the more recent diesels, at least, have had some fit and finish issues that seemed less frequent a few years ago before the factory change. Just wondering how well the new S-3s are finished.

Last edited by breezinup
TedW posted:

Stoopid question:  For those who have the S3, what is this die cast piece included for?  I could only guess.

Three views:

0A4A8B8D-46A8-42BA-B954-D8F78B29EB18

 

Since the Milwaukee Road S3 steam locomotives have an all-weather cab design, there is a large movable & flexible/telescoping "diaphragm" arrangement between the back of the cab and the front of the tender. The piece in your photos appears to by Lionel's attempt to model that "diaphragm" arrangement.

Hot Water posted:
TedW posted:

Stoopid question:  For those who have the S3, what is this die cast piece included for?  I could only guess.

Three views:

0A4A8B8D-46A8-42BA-B954-D8F78B29EB18

 

Since the Milwaukee Road S3 steam locomotives have an all-weather cab design, there is a large movable & flexible/telescoping "diaphragm" arrangement between the back of the cab and the front of the tender. The piece in your photos appears to by Lionel's attempt to model that "diaphragm" arrangement.

This is one of my favorite features of the S-3. It minimizes the gap between engine and tender - much more realistic and looks great.

jeffrey37 posted:
RickM46 posted:
jeffrey37 posted:

Here is a short video of the 260 S-3.

 

https://youtu.be/-LZ4y0Qepxo

Jeff, great video! Can you tell us:

How many drops of smoke fluid you used to initially dose the smoke unit??? 

Which dealer you bought the loco from?

Rick,

I used 20 drops of Lionel smoke fluid.

I ordered it thru Charles Ro.

 

 

Thanks Jeff, just looked at their website and it is not listed; maybe sold out.

Just received the Milwaukee Road S3 6-84067 Hiawatha today from Trainworld.  What I like about TW is they double box the locomotives with enough padding to protect the original brown factory shipper - first rate!  Ordered it the night before the 4th of July and it was on a truck the next business day.   It arrived in pristine condition in its factory foam - no loose parts - no damage.  

This loco is a sight to behold with its color scheme; the grey is almost white - OK - as GRJ once noted, it doesn't take much to amuse me.  Only one issue out of the box, one of the drive wheels seems to be out of round and you get a smidge vertical and lateral movement - barely noticeable - seems to be working itself out as I run it; I'm not going to do anything about it - adds some realism; probably one of the rubber tires.

I am not familiar with the original version of the S3 released some years ago (wanted it but all sold out then) but like the CAB2 features: the quilling whistle has 3 modes - high pitched, low pitched, and air horn via the AUX1 button; is a good smoker - supplied 20 drops to start off; will experiment with another 20 drops after 10 minutes of running (you all know of my experience with destroying smoke units); will probably never use the cylinder steam; all the lights work including the blinking MARS light when you press emergency stop in the center of the keypad; the smoke switches and PGM/RUN switches are located on top of the boiler under a magnetically held cover - nice touch; there is no odessey switch; there is no orange load module but Lionel Dave published a document on how to load the info into the remote; was surprised to see in the manual that it can be controlled by a Universal Lionchief remote; as for Bluetooth, I do not have a smart phone but will see if there is an app for my Windows laptop; have no issues running it thru my O72 right and left hand command control switches; will lube it later tonight------------Happy Camper!

UPDATE:  Did you ever get the feeling that the world was a tuxedo and you were a pair of brown shoes???

Ran the loco for about 20 minutes and decided to lube it; that was fortuitous.  Upon lubing the tender I found that the rear most wheels on the rearmost truck were not turning - they were binding up and dragging on one side.  No amount of lube remedied them.  Finally, removed that bracket (2 screws), swapped the rearmost axle with the middle axle, re-installed, all spin freely now - go figure.

Found that there is no Bluetooth app for Windows.  Other than that, she's a good runner; smooth thru all speed steps; no need for a capacitor on the motor!

Last edited by RickM46
Ted S posted:

@RickM46 if possible, I would like to see a video of the wheel out of round.  I wonder if it's a case of the wheel being out of quarter or a drive rod bushing that's too tight.

Hi Ted, didn't consider a drive rod being too tight or a wheel out of quarter - will have to look at some videos to see the position of the pins on the wheels vs the drive rods.  I have not discovered the wheel that might be out of round as I don't think you can manually push this loco.   The easiest to check will be the drive rods.  Video of the issue will be difficult since the movement if so small.  Have run the loco about 45 minutes and it runs smoothly.  Will give it a closer look. 

UPDATE:  Ted, took the loco off the floor track and put it on a length of track on my table for closer look; here are my findings:

Out of quarter - the drive rod for all 4 wheels on a side is one solid straight flat rod with holes drilled for attachment to a wheel - no chance for a wheel being out of sync with others.

Drive rod tightness - there is a small amount of play vertically and horizontally between the flat drive rod and the wheel; all have the same play; very good precision - nice to see;  all other decorative rods are loose with no binding.

Movement - when gently moving the loco forward and back, there is a small amount of play between the drive mechanism and the wheels allowing you to easily move the loco about 1/4 inch back and forth with no binding; didn't try to move the loco more than that distance due to resistance - didn't want to damage the drive.

Drive wheels - only the rear most and front most wheels actually touch the track; will have to visually inspect those next at crawl speed.

All in all checking these items makes me see how well this model is constructed - warm fuzzy!

Last edited by RickM46

Which axle/wheel appears to be out of round?

Often times the  blind driver/axle that is actually driven by the motor will have a bit of orbital motion if there's a little extra play in the bushings.

This gives the impression of an out of round driver.

It's usually not very noticeable as you described, but one you see it ,you always will.

I have a few locos that do this. It's a non issue.

Rick another way to troubleshoot it would be to run it upside-down in a cradle at very slow speed, while putting a little resistance on the wheels with one hand.  As you run it more, IF the wheel is out-of-round or even not pressed on the axle straight, this will manifest itself by a different pattern of wear / grease / dirt on the wheel tread.  So if you ever do decide to track it down that will provide a valuable clue.  Enjoy your new loco!!

Ted, thanks for the info; will pursue the issue after I put some time on the engine; I checked the drive wheel flanges for deformations but they are smooth. 

I also turned the loco upside down in a cradle and eye balled alignment of the tops of the flanged drive wheels and they all seemed to be at the same height and in line with one another.  Have run it for about an hour and it runs OK. 

Am experimenting with smoke fluid dosages and am adding 10 drops after each 10 minutes of running; at this rate the smoke plume has not decreased.

Last edited by RickM46

Regarding the S3, I experienced a Homer Simpson DOH!!  I took a look at the S3 parts breakdown on the Lionel website and saw that it has a dual smoke unit similar to the one on the Big Boy.  One unit for the stack and one for cylinder steam. 

However there is only the single stack for feeding the units.  Out of the stack there is one funnel that has 2 separate spigots for feeding each smoke unit.  That means when dosing the loco, your dose is split into 2 channels - 1/2 dose to each unit.  Out of the box, the cylinder steam activates automatically.  Probably not a good idea to shut it off and thus over saturate its smoke unit when you add fluid to replenish stack smoke.  Why care???  keep in mind that I am the grim reaper of smoke units.

jim911 posted:

anyone purchase the no. 260 what if version?

Yes, I have a couple of days ago.  The color scheme is more dramatic in person.  I feel a few to many color combos but I probably keep it instead of returning for an all black model.

I feel that Lionel did a much better job on the SP Cab Forward in daylight colors, much more sutble

jim911 posted:

Anyone receive them yet?

Yep, Happy Camper; all of my other engines are black; but the Hiawatha is my favorite due to its color scheme; it's the white/gray with orange color on the boiler and wheels that just make it work.; and, it's a good runner.  Besides the color, it's the two whistle sounds that make me nostalgic about my childhood home in Penn. one mile from the tracks along the Monongahela River where at night you could hear the steamers going by with those whistles.

MLW2

Last edited by RickM46
daylight posted:
jim911 posted:

anyone purchase the no. 260 what if version?

Yes, I have a couple of days ago.  The color scheme is more dramatic in person.  I feel a few too many color combos but I probably keep it instead of returning for an all black model.

I feel that Lionel did a much better job on the SP Cab Forward in daylight colors, much more sutble

Subtle the 260 is not. Pretty wild. If the wheels had been left black instead of colored, it would have appealed to me a lot more. For those who dig it, that's great. 

Last edited by breezinup
cummins2500 posted:

I just picked up my Southern version yesterday from sidetrack hobbies.  I bought because I had the southern passenger cars.  I have noticed the sounds are a quite a bit quieter than my 612 J and even my M1a.  Also not as much creaking when just starting out slow.  Otherwise it is very well done with a good sound set.15316597306381065839215406541039

That's weird that your 2716 is quiet. I also just picked up my Southern 2716 a few days ago and it can be very loud when the volume is turned all the way up.

Last edited by Nick's Tracks

The volume pot and sound are turned all the way up.  I also downloaded the lionchief app to try out the changing of the pitch for the whistle and bell.  Not a lot of change happens, but is a neat idea. All and all nice smooth running engine.  Upon opening the bell was disconnected from its mount and so far the classification lights do not respond to turning them off.

Lionel's model appears to be of the NKP 2-8-4.  The C&O locos were similar, but the front end appearance differed, and the steam dome on the C&O version was positioned to the rear of the sandbox, the typical location on most steamers.  The NKP design was unusual in that the steam dome was located forward of the sandbox.  I'm not sure if an accurate 3R model of the C&O loco has been marketed, but that would be the correct loco to represent the one used by the Southern as part of its steam program. 

jwmathews posted:

Lionel's model appears to be of the NKP 2-8-4.  The C&O locos were similar, but the front end appearance differed, and the steam dome on the C&O version was positioned to the rear of the sandbox, the typical location on most steamers.  The NKP design was unusual in that the steam dome was located forward of the sandbox.  I'm not sure if an accurate 3R model of the C&O loco has been marketed, but that would be the correct loco to represent the one used by the Southern as part of its steam program. 

MTH has made the C&O K-4 model, more than once I believe, and it is indeed accurate for C&O, i.e. the sand dome, steam dome, headlight and number boards are in the correct locations.

Norm Charbonneau posted:

Thx Marty. I don’t have any control over the number boards, I think they are wired directly to power. The markers, if they are on with the extended lighting controls, will turn off along with the headlight using AUX-2. Not a big deal, engine runs great and I will try to YouTube it tonight.

Thanks.  I wasn't sure my Berk from a few years back is on a friends layout. 

UPDATE - Did you ever feel like the world was a tuxedo and you were a pair of brown shoes?

Forum: my apologies, I think I did a Homer Simpson. 

Regarding my previous post: ' Only one issue out of the box, one of the drive wheels seems to be out of round and you get a smidge vertical and lateral movement - barely noticeable - seems to be working itself out as I run it; I'm not going to do anything about it - adds some realism; probably one of the rubber tires.'  

That condition no longer exists; have been running the loco and it is smooth; go figure; Happy Camper!  Now, due to the color scheme of the loco, I have pre-ordered the matching passenger cars scheduled for November - 6-85348, 57.

Taking the liberty of posting Norm's recent Youtube of the #1225. WARNING; If you intend to do any modeling today, you may NOT want to watch this video at its highest resolution. The modeling is so good, it almost made me cry. When Pat Conroy writes, I can't write. When Eric Clapton plays guitar, I keep mine in the case. When Norm Charbonneau posts something like this, I pack up my tool kit. Just sayin'.

Just watched it a second time. The modeling is so ridiculously good. Norm, I didn't think your modeling and photography could get better. It is astoundingly good. Kudos !!!!!

I'm, sorry. Forgive me. I just watched it a third time in the highest resolution. The modeling is as good, or better, than any pure scale modeling I have seen. I don't care how many rails there are. Do yourself a favor. Watch in the highest resolution on a great screen.

Last edited by Scrapiron Scher

Follow up to Scrapirons post

Watching Norms YouTube video last night - my wife comes in the office and starts watching with me

First comment - “That looks real”

Next comment - “How come your layout doesn’t look like that”

My comment - “Nobody’s layout looks like that” 😊

Just awesome 👍🏼

dorfj2 posted:

Follow up to Scrapirons post

Watching Norms YouTube video last night - my wife comes in the office and starts watching with me

First comment - “That looks real”

Next comment - “How come your layout doesn’t look like that”

My comment - “Nobody’s layout looks like that” 😊

Yep!!

There are some mighty skilled folks on here aren't there?

Just awesome 👍🏼

Blue Streak posted:

Did anyone purchase or have pictures of the L&N version? Would like to know if the whistle is like the Southern version shown in the Trainworld video?

Also I assume the new Pere Marquete whistle is like the video of Norm's older version?

Thanks to anyone that can help with the answers.

Joe

Both the 1225 and 1223 share the same whistle that has been used in the past.

I received my new limited edition model of Nickel Plate Road 757 from Lionel made for Mr. Muffin’s Trains. It runs flawlessly however it seems to have an identity crisis.

IMG_4286IMG_4287IMG_4289

I don’t really mind that it’s wrong I think it only adds to the value! I was involved in a similar mixup with the MTH Premier Alco PAs. The lettering was reversed on one side due to a factory error. The simply provided us with new engine shells free of charge.

Hopefully, they can supply me with a correct number board that I can switch out. Any other 757’s out there?

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TrainWizard5972 posted:

I received my new limited edition model of Nickel Plate Road 757 from Lionel made for Mr. Muffin’s Trains. It runs flawlessly however it seems to have an identity crisis.

IMG_4286IMG_4287IMG_4289

I don’t really mind that it’s wrong I think it only adds to the value! I was involved in a similar mixup with the MTH Premier Alco PAs. The lettering was reversed on one side due to a factory error. The simply provided us with new engine shells free of charge.

Hopefully, they can supply me with a correct number board that I can switch out. Any other 757’s out there?

Hey Adam, bummer about the number board, but also kinda fun!  The gray boiler looks much lighter than other Lionel NKP Berks, Mikados, and Consolidations.  How does it compare with the rest of your Legacy NKP fleet?

Since this thread is about the berkshire, I've got a question: I've got the 765 and was doing a test run. While putting the the foam protectors on the wheels for storage, this little black piece fell off. I can't find anything broken on the underside or on the front on the engine. Was this piece important for anything or some piece that fell into the engine at the factory that has no significance and can be tossed into the trash? I want to make sure that I didn't break anything and have to order parts or send it away for repair. (Pics are of one piece taken from both sides.)20180727_22040020180727_220356

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Thats an axle bushing for either the pilot or trailing truck on the locomotive.

Its been a somewhat common issue for these to fall out or break during shipping.

I bought a Lionel scale berk many years ago and the pilot truck kept derailing until I discovered one of the bushings was actually in upside down.

Turn it over and look closely at the axle ends. It should be obvious if one is missing.

RickO posted:

Thats an axle bushing for either the pilot or trailing truck on the locomotive.

Its been a somewhat common issue for these to fall out or break during shipping.

I bought a Lionel scale berk many years ago and the pilot truck kept derailing until I discovered one of the bushings was actually in upside down.

Turn it over and look closely at the axle ends. It should be obvious if one is missing.

Found the axle. Thank you for your help.

Nathan B posted:
RickO posted:

Thats an axle bushing for either the pilot or trailing truck on the locomotive.

Its been a somewhat common issue for these to fall out or break during shipping.

I bought a Lionel scale berk many years ago and the pilot truck kept derailing until I discovered one of the bushings was actually in upside down.

Turn it over and look closely at the axle ends. It should be obvious if one is missing.

Found the axle. Thank you for your help.

I would suggest using some super glue to hold it in place.

Rider Sandman posted:
TrainWizard5972 posted:

I received my new limited edition model of Nickel Plate Road 757 from Lionel made for Mr. Muffin’s Trains. It runs flawlessly however it seems to have an identity crisis.

IMG_4286IMG_4287IMG_4289

I don’t really mind that it’s wrong I think it only adds to the value! I was involved in a similar mixup with the MTH Premier Alco PAs. The lettering was reversed on one side due to a factory error. The simply provided us with new engine shells free of charge.

Hopefully, they can supply me with a correct number board that I can switch out. Any other 757’s out there?

Hey Adam, bummer about the number board, but also kinda fun!  The gray boiler looks much lighter than other Lionel NKP Berks, Mikados, and Consolidations.  How does it compare with the rest of your Legacy NKP fleet?

It is virtually identical to my 2014 NKP 765 with the exception of the light grey smokebox and firebox. I'm not sure why they went this route but I do know that the real 757's paint faded to similar color at the RR Museum of PA. It has since been repainted. This one does not have the detachable MARS light. I have yet to install nor do I plan to put it on my 765.

I would compare it to my MTH Premier NKP 755 but that's a whole nother post...

A quick pic of my 767 (its 767 all over!), all looks well with appearance. Really glad it has whistle steam and I think firebox glow. That was not listed in the blurb! Happy! This is the first Lionel O scale loco I have ever seen in my life,( i.e. not a video), as they seem to be scarce in our Fairest Isle, so I did take a bit of a chance that I would like it. So far it looks fab just on the shelf! Running it will be bit of a challenge. I have everything in place to put together a small circuit for test running. Powering up is a slight issue. I will be using 12v DC to power a 110v 60hz pure sine inverter, thence to the Lionel transformer etc. I only have Bluetooth option for controlling at the moment. ( I have been told by Lionel that all there latest engines are 50hz friendly now anyway, but hey. Its much more interesting (and legal) to do it as above). I was a bit surprised that such a complex model should not come with a full spec sheet stating all the features. Maybe there's more in the instruction manual I need to read. This cant be the first scale Berk to cross the pond can it?

 

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Scepter'd Isle: Congratulations!; you're going to love a locomotive with the potential for command control; once bit, you will not go back.  This forum will help you with any questions - they helped me repair a Big Boy.  I am the destroyer of Lionel smoke units - be mindful of your dosages of smoke fluid - too many drops could harm electronics and fans - too few will burn out heating components; no worries, there is much smoke unit info on the forum.

Last edited by RickM46

My friend Ray brought in his new American Railroads Legacy Berkshire 6-84691 to the BDSME yesterday so I shot a couple of videos:

          

            

  Ran perfect out of the box. He used the Bluetooth to run it. Thursday we will set it up in our legacy system. I think he picked the right Berk, this one is unique.

JohnB

RickM46,

The Milwaukee Road Legacy Scale 4-8-4 S3 Northerns were released in 2011, they had road numbers 261, 267 and 267. They were all black with red pin striping on the windows and a few other places. The also release Hiawatha passenger cars, 7 in total, if I remember. I have the #267 <6-11230> and all the passenger cars.

Just got the new what if paint scheme (cab 260) and it looks great. Now all I need to do is locate another set of cars and I will be in heaven. Barring that, I will have the 267 pull freight and the 260 the cars.

Kevin 

JohnB posted:

My friend Ray brought in his new American Railroads Legacy Berkshire 6-84691 to the BDSME yesterday so I shot a couple of videos:

          

            

  Ran perfect out of the box. He used the Bluetooth to run it. Thursday we will set it up in our legacy system. I think he picked the right Berk, this one is unique.

JohnB

John, Your friend got a winner in that loco. I get my 1225 next week

Hi again from this Scepter'd Isle!

I have now given my 767 NKP a run on a short test track, using the Bluetooth app. All seems to function OK. And it was on English electricity! (I should add that it was via a pure sine inverter to get the correct voltage and frequency). Let's say I'm impressed so far, and I can't wait to give it a proper run on a continuous loop. I agree the light grey smoke box colour looks naff. (Might give it some 'weathering' one day). I have a couple of questions:

1, There seems to be a smoke fan which runs continuously, and emits a faint whining noise - is that normal? It stops when I turn smoke off.

2, The old question of how much, and when, to add smoke fluid? Please could you point me to the best thread for advice.

When my loop is set up I will post some footage here.

Tim

Scepter'd Isle posted:

I have a couple of questions:

1, There seems to be a smoke fan which runs continuously, and emits a faint whining noise - is that normal? It stops when I turn smoke off.

2, The old question of how much, and when, to add smoke fluid? Please could you point me to the best thread for advice.

1. Yes, the whining noise is normal. That's just the sound of the fan operating. When you turn off the smoke unit, the fan shuts off. If it's louder, that just means the unit needs lubricated, so you need to gain access to the smoke unit and add some oil to the fan motor. Eric Siegel has a great video on YouTube that goes into more detail, just look up "how to fix a noisy smoke unit".

2. Look at your owners manual to see how much fluid you need to prime it. Assuming you run your Berk once or twice a week, I'd say to add smoke fluid every 3 weeks or so. When you add it, depending on how much smoke is coming out, add an appropriate amount of fluid.

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