2013 Layout progress review pics and video

Wow. Now we are jealous. Huge layout. If not cabinets, how about stained bead board panels that you can hook under the facia but be able to unhook them for access?

35' X 54' PLUS there is a game room!! Nice. No need to ever go up stairs.

Wow Patrick, nice space and proof that good things come to those who wait. By the way, a little FYI. The honeydo list is never complete.

I had some thoughts of cabinetry under my future layout as well. Below is a pic of tambour. If it was turned vertically you could simply plumb down from the curved fascia on the top to the floor and make a track for this tambour to ride in on selected areas of your layout.



Keep us posted, you must be very excited with such a great space to run trains.

Not sure what beadboard is?
Is it similiar to the sliding door picture of that cabinet?

I ve seen one or two other ones that where completely finished and stained.
I m thinking im am gonna have to build another wall on 16's all the way around the contour of the edge and attatch it up under neath. My big problem is gonna be where the walk way inside radius is only 36".

What bends that tight? Maybe this is where i should put the 12" cabinets. I d have to hold them back a little though.

This is Papa3rails layout, you can see more pics on MTJ. He used bead board

Let me get this right.
You started yesterday morning and got all that done?
Holy cr@p!!!
At this rate you could be running trains tomorrow night.

Very nice BTW. We are all seriously envious of that huge space.

Rod

Let me also say...Holy !#$. It took me that long to find my pencil and tape measure. Great space. Fantastic start.

I ve been going over this in my mind even before they poured the concrete in the basement. LOL

Yes it is true , The first set of pics was all done in one day ,Saturday. Its a mixture of standard framing in each anchor point then running 2 L- beams to connect them. Drop all your laterals on top and cut them to radius shape you want.We started with 3 levels from base down, to give it some drop downs for bridges and canyons etc, now will cover with 3/4 , but not screw down yet,lay track, cookie cut around track , then raise tracks with 3/4 to different heights.

I have been trying to figure exactly what i will finish underneath with.

I could use more ideas. I am going to check oput the bead board to see if can make the tight radius.

After a couple suggestions so far. I was thinking maybe that .88 a sq ft prefinished wood flooring stood up on end and attatched to trim board. Then use a panel cap.

I would like to find more pics of how others have done it.

quote:

Wow. Now we are jealous.

OH yes we are! that is one BIG BAd A++ Basement!

are those 2x4's? that looks like $1000.00 just in 2x4's alone!

LOL, Thats the advantage of a one story house. only at 220 2x4 so far , its the 3/4 plywood thats gonna hurt. I had to tear down my layout at the old house and had been itchin for a long time.

Patrick,
Please do not stop keeping the forum up-to-date with photos of your progress. It seems to me that when a person shares the development of a project like this with other hobbyists, it just makes model railroading a really great pastime for all of us.

BTW, I would go for something darker in color (stained or painted) than the rest of your layout environment. Something that does NOT draw the attention of the viewer.

Good luck.

Hi Patrick, being a cabinetmaker I thought of a couple of thing that might help you cover the bottom of your layout. Which by the way is going to be impressive.

The first thing is 3/8 bending ply which should get you around those bends but it is not real smooth, it will have a grain pattern to it. It can be fastened with screws or nails. The second one is 1/4" kerfed mdf. It dose have a smooth face and bends really well. The only drawback to it is fastening it. A screw or a nail will go through in between the kerfs so you need to watch how you fasten it. You could glue with wood glue as long as you have a piece on the floor that also follows the curve.

As for the price, I don't know exactly what it is at this time. We go through Russel Plywood for most of our stuff and I think they will sell to you, it just won't be the same price we get. I haven't looked on the net as to where else you might be able to get it.

Maybe this is more than you'r looking for, but I just thought it might be a different approach. Good luck and keep the pics going.

Patrick
Here is another link to bending plywood. http://www.woodmagazine.com/ma...ods-selector/?page=4 Depending on your skills and tools a 36" radius is not that tight of a bend. Bending plywood comes in different thicknesses and you may have to glue it up in multiple layers.

Also tambour is strips of wood that are attached to a mesh or cloth so they will flex going through a curve. Think of this for an area where you may want a door in a curved part of the fascia. Hope this helps.

Dan thanks for the advice, the wife had me stain EVERYTHING in the house dark,

Ralph,
Definately not more than i was looking for . I do glass block for a living , even though i literally built most of this house , i dont know what s all out there. If it dosnt have a big sign on it at lowes or home depot, i probubly never heard of it.Very good idea.

Greg,

Thanks for the link, it really makes a big difference when you have people on the forum give you suggestions. Even when i think im Mr Know it all I ask anyway, then i find out im Mr know a little. But at least i know where to ask . Im gonna look into all the suggestions . I obviously have a little time but like to keep my eye out for deals.

Regarding bending plywood around corners, we have had luck using regular plywood intended for furniture (3-ply plus veneer, quarter-inch, I think; I'd have to go look to be sure). If it won't make it around a turn on the layout fascia, we stop, throw it into the swimming pool for 10 or 15 minutes, and then try it again

We have gotten around some really tight turns this way, and even S-curves. Though we have not tried this with a piece more than about 4 inches wide, I don't see why it could not work with a larger sheet if there is something solid to fasten it too, top and bottom. Also, it is important that the plywood be "clear". Knots don't bend too well!

Patrick;

Are you going to be using any of the space underneath the layout for storage of any type? If so, I would opt for some type of flexible material to make sliding panel doors. That way, the underneath storage would not be visible.

I'm sure this has been done before, but I used corrugated aluminum, and its industrial look is consistent with the train theme.

Why all 2 x 4 construction? 1 x 4 legs with 1 x 4 and 1x 2 for L-girders and 1 x 4 joists is more than strong enough.

I am definately leaning towards a wood product that can be stained and cut to allow for yes ,cabinets and shelves. The corragated is also an excellent idea .Would like to see pics of that.
The 2x4 construction is because I am planning to go all the way to the ceiling with mountains on a skeleton framing,3/4 only under where track and some of the buildings will sit. I tend to walk on my benchwork alot.Epecially in the areas where it is only 16" off the floor.
Being that there will be alot of cantiliver to create the curves and drops, i wanted some meat in the areas where they would hang over so they wouldnt get snapped off before it was completed with the final trim board because i usually put in more drops and rearrange curves with the track work and building placement.
Finally i usually go and pick up 100 2x4s at a time. Dont know about where you live but finding even a small amount of long , lightweight , straight 1x4s for a decent price isnt easy.
If youve seen the module i posted on here(York Module) we used 1x4s for that ,but had to add alot of wood fill ins where the drops where. .I see the HO guys skeleton and cantiliver the 1/4 s as well. But IMHO the 2x4 in the long run is the better option for my situation,strength and money wise.

I just got from vaca, i will post some more updates soon.
Thanks for you ideas so far on finishing the skirting .

Patrick:

Awsome job! I can't wait until the open house.
harleyhouse

Beautiful layout in progress. Very nice job.

I am currently in my own "right of way" negotations with the "owner" of our basement laundry room. I will use the pics of your layout as an example of what could be were she to allow egress through her "domain".

Once again, fantastic looking bench work and a great layout in the works. Thanks for sharing it.

Patrick
GREAT START!!! I tried to find you at York back in April to comment on the excellent quality of your modules. Looks like the quality is following here. Start keeping a diary of the work as what you have here will kilely end up in a magazine and or video.

What track are you planning to use?

quote:

Originally posted by harleyhouse:
Patrick:

Awsome job! I can't wait until the open house.
harleyhouse

Mark,
wait until open house? What days cant i put you down for a hand? LOL
Your welcome anytime.
DV,
Good luck with negotiating, However I would be a little worried about putting my equipment at someone elses place permanently. If i didnt have anywhere to build . I would go outside.
LI,
Sorry missed you at York, im sure their be more chances .
I am going to use Gargraves Phantom flex with ross radius turns and switches. I was lucky enough to have a member from our club Matt Irvin get me a large load of used Ross radius turns and switches from another forum member on here.

Today i will be ripping homasote all day for road bed. Will update pics soon.

2nd level started.

Post more end of weekend.

Terrific job with the benchwork, what I consider the most diffiicult part.
The layout is bigger than some clubs
Are you modeling any particular railroad or location?


for sharing

Hey Charlie,

Yes The West Virginia mountains. (N&W) and whatever else I own LOL.

updating

WOW....wonderful....I am enjoying watching your progress. You must be very excited when you compare the pics over time and see how it is progressing.

Thank you for sharing.

Peter

Patrick
Great progress and one heck of a layout. You have embarked on a layout most train clubs would envy. I am enjoying the progress reports keep them coming

how many Transformers will run this layout and are you using legacy or mth dcs?
Seem like a big wiring job, maybe you can should just that process.
Great looking layout.

quote:

Originally posted by Zigmont:
how many Transformers will run this layout and are you using legacy or mth dcs?
Seem like a big wiring job, maybe you can should just that process.
Great looking layout.

Right now , Im running 4 bricks (temporarly) directly on the bottom level, which is the two main lines.It seems it will be plenty with 2 trains running on each mainline. Its around 400 ft of track per main line.I bought all 14 gauge wire for track wiring. Some People say Lionel dont smoke that good, well run em with some bricks and see what happens.
Anyway I ll test to determine exactly How many bricks and sections I will use. My rule of thumb is 1 brick per 2 (w/smoke units)engines or 1- 6 car passenger train. But that was on other layouts. This is my first of this size.

I only own Lionel engines, nothing against Mikes, just thats what me and my Dad chased since i was young.So i ve stuck to one brand.

Im running Legacy 1.3. I started putting up some foam prematurely because (not mentioning any names) a dealer in Delaware took 4 weeks to get me cases of radius track sections. He already took my money so i had to wait.I wont bend flex to the O72 and O80. Think it makes a better job to buy them. O88 and higher I ll bend.And I dont want anything under O72 on the layout.

Sure, I will show how i end up wiring it .After i figure out a way to get the track work on a RR file.
Right now I still have another week or so of laying track and figuring out the exact way I am going to break it up.

For starters I know Im gonna put the Mainline on TPCs to run conventional engines if need be with the Legacy. Not sure if I m gonna do that for the second and third level with all the grades , might not be worth worrying about non Odeyssey engines up there.

Thanks for the kind words guys and incentive.

do the levels connect or are they independent?

They all connect but independant, 2% or less grade.
With two main lines on 1 st . 2 Main Lines on second level and connected to the yard and option to climb the mountain from 2nd to third level or downn to the 1st.
With the vision and legacy out now I wanted some slight "Roller coaster" runs to get the laboring and let up sounds going.LOL.
The first level is perfectly Level, again for Non oddysee and Conventional if need be.

great!

Starting on the yard and engine service area. Ordered turntable ,sandhouse, 3 track coaling tower. Gonna try to fit them all in + plus 1 or 2 ash pits and a caboose track.

WOW.....would you adopt me?

Really spectacular....I cannot wait to see it all landscaped...you did such a great job on that module for York!

Peter

Here is a man with plan Awesome progress!

Incredible! Awesome job to get so much done so fast!

Patrick,
Dont forget to run a copper plane on your over\under track conditions to avoid Legacy signal issues.

That is shaping up to be one dynamite layout. Truth is, it already is, even in its formative stages.

Hi Patrick ,
I sent you and email regarding your layout ,
Bernie Winkler (wink9999) is email address.
You have a great layout. You must be drinking 5hour energy !!

Patrick,

Just Excellent work!

This is very nice, and thanks for sharing the photos.

Patrick;

It has been really entertaining to see the fantastic progress you have been making with this wonderful layout.

Your benchwork is very well done, especially for such a complicated layout with all of the twists and turns. It is also beneficial that you have documented your progress along the way because when the layout is done and the scenery is completed it would be difficult for many of us to realize the amount of work that led to the final product.

Congratulations on your wonderful achievement!

Steve Tapper

What are you doing about power drops? That is one fantastic layout.

Thanks guys I appreciate that very much.

I Just finished all track work today finally. Except some bridge and yard stuff I cant do until Al sends the turntable.

I will address the power drops soon.
As stated earlier I have 2 bricks on each mainline which seems more than enough direct. It may be a different story when I put the TPC between them and the track.
My next step is to clean the giant mess and get started fresh on the wiring and switches so I dont have to crawl around on dust ,cut wood and homasote.

I have marlite to go all the way around the top so there is no corners and hide the doors. . Wasnt sure if spending the 1500.00 on Backdrop is worth it. Either way I am gonna paint it or put backdrop on it,first, before putting it up( 7 panels - 12 ft x 36")



























I hope its ok i posted so many pics. Hope your enjoying it as much as me.

Now hard part is behind and the fun stuff can begin.

Wow what a layout. Look great.wonderfully done

Patrick H.

Please don't stop on the pictures they are just great an all the rest of the guys think the same. You have no idea how much you are helping me with my layout.


Sonny

Patrick AWESOME work!

I would love to come out and help!
You should sign up to be on the Ligonier Valley Railroad Layout tour in 2011.

Great work, You are an inspiration, Now if I could just finish the darn Honey-do list my wife made me. I could start bench work.
Mark Harley

How do you even begin to think about the wiring?

GREAT JOB!!!

Great looking layout and your progress is amazing. Your timing is great, it has helped me in visualizing what my next steps will be. A few weeks ago at York I finalized my plans after talking with some great guys that have been willing to listen, review and give advise on my layout design. Been working a year on design while 20x60 room was built onto my home. Started bench work a week ago and pleased with my progress so far. However, I knew the benchwork would go fast. I am amazed that so far every measurement is within a quarter inch of the RRTrack plan. I enjoy doing the benchwork and feel like I know what I am doing. Can't say that about the next step of laying track. I am using MTH ScaleTrax and have several custom radius curves to do. I have watched Rich Battista's video a few times but need to watch it again before starting. Rich has been great in providing assistance. Keep the pictures coming they are very inspiring. I will post a few pics of my benchwork after I post this. It is under this same thread "gsn1".

speechless

Patrick.......I am blown away by your layout. I can't imagine anyone being able to envision a layout with the sheer size and complexity of what you are building, and have it all come together as quickley as you have made it happen.

I am in the middle of constructing my own layout, which pales in comparison to yours, and my hats off to your talents. Thank you for the pics, they are an enjoyment.

REV

Patrick,

I am in awe of the size and scope of your layout. What I really like is that your mainlines "snake" along the mountainsides. That is very prototypical AND it makes your layout longer. While mountain scenery requires more work than flat lands,it's hard to beat the drama of a big engine running on the edge of a cliff. Thanks for the timely updates, fast progress, and great photos. I'd sure like to see a "ride along" or "pacing" Youtube video of any of your trains in operation.

Great job for the fast progress on your layout. It is an inspiration. It is getting me motivated to start my own now.

IC Man

Thanks you guys for the kind words.
I have not been able to touch the layout for the last 2 weeks, our club has been at shows and getting to shows . So I finally got saturday and sunday to restart.
I am putting foam everywhere first then gonna carve it to allow for the buildings etc........( i have a general idea where everything is going) Because I have family(alot of family) coming for Christmas , I hope to at least have it carved and painted by then. After that I can relax and really detail it up . Might be wishful thinking unless I take some time off.

As for the wiring , right now i am heading toward a different approach from my other layouts. I am actually planning 4 locations for "contol panels".Or should i say Information Stations.

[quote]Patrick.......I am blown away by your layout. I can't imagine anyone being able to envision a layout with the sheer size and complexity of what you are building, quote]

I cant imagine how so many are good with that RR software I am envious of that. So I have to make up for it with alot of paper and imagination.LOL

Quote"What I really like is that your mainlines "snake" along the mountainsides."quote


Nothing like a long train snaking through "Thunder Mountain."


[Quote""It is an inspiration".Quote]

Thats what I like about the forum the most. Most everyone has good things to say and inspires each other. Id still be building the legs if the wife was inspiring the layout.(just kidding)
Ive seen your plan IC man. Let me know what track and switches your gonna use so I can invest in that company.

Also Greg had mentioned to put in a "ground plane" . I havnt had any signal issues even in the one tight outside corner where i have 2 tracks stacked on 4 tracks stacked on 4 more tracks .

Should i plan for this anyway?

4 days to work on layout really helps . Going down the stretch then can kick back and enjoy taking my time detailing. Hope to have at all foamed carved and painted for Christmas.

Simply amazing!

I'm waiting for your posts to see your new photos!

Congratulations, it's a great work!

Leandro ...

just how manny of you are there working you seem to fly through this effortlessly!

I enjoy seeing your progress looks good hope you find time to enjoy some train running-$oo

LOL

I have been Solo since the very first weekend. The guys from the club have been super busy at shows this time of year.
(I wouldnt ask anyway except for pointers) The whole entire construction to detailing is as enjoyable to me as running trains.
However it would be nice to get past the carving.

quote:

Originally posted by gregj410:
Patrick,
Dont forget to run a copper plane on your over\under track conditions to avoid Legacy signal issues.

I am sorry to go off topic...but what exactly is a copper plane?

OMG......thats about all I can say......you must be using about 50 sheets of foam. I just built a foam "Rock Wall" where 2 tunnels pass through into another room, which is only about 45" long and 16" high and was pretty proud of myself, but yours........WOW.......simply amazing.

P.S. Keep a good vacuum around, your gonna need it.

REV

Pat
Simply amazing. I watch for your updates

from all the pink foam I guess your layout will be well "insulated".

After posting my design on this forum , i have come to realize that I think this was intended for software design layouts.I think. Just in case , I started a RR file also on the first level and soon will post RR file for second and third level because there are 2 areas i am saving for a secondary siding/yard and mining /coal area, that I would like some feed back and help with. I will get my RR file alot more EXACT as i go.

Ok here are some more pics if you would like to see them and the RRfile





















As I stated above I am just learning the RR file and my track on the benchwork is pretty even compared to the software file i have so far.. I will add the next couple layers and get RR file more exact.

Incredible!

Peter

Patrick...beautiful work!! Can you explain in more detail how you created the striations in the layers of foam??

Thanks,
Alan

Patrick are you going to have an open house for Christmas so all of us admirers from the Pittsburgh area can come over and ogle? Rick

quote:

Originally posted by leavingtracks:
Patrick...beautiful work!! Can you explain in more detail how you created the striations in the layers of foam??

Thanks,
Alan

Alan,

Oh boy, I think i better go over to the scenery forum before i get yelled at.LOL

If the foam is stacked(which I think looks the best) Take a 12-14 inch cats paw(nail puller) and just beat up the foam . Take more here and there or pull trenches and steps out of it in different directions. Then I use a 4 inch grinder with a thin 6-7 inch masonry cutting wheel(wear gloves) Just run the grinder back in fourth keep going horizontal(slight tilts are good to) lines from 1/2 to 1/8 apart, you will cross the line above and below the one you are scoring, it will look more realistic but try not to cross two lines while scoring if you can. try not to go to deep or you will need a sprayer to get paint in the cracks later. Sometime after scoring it with grinder Ill knock some of the layers off with a couple more whacks. It goes fast. I did 30'x1 yesterday in about 3-4 hours taking breaks for the grinder. Same for standing foam but not as good results for me.

Now I know were a lot of the stimulus money went for new infrastructure.

LOOKING GOOD

quote:

Originally posted by RICKC:
Patrick are you going to have an open house for Christmas so all of us admirers from the Pittsburgh area can come over and ogle? Rick

Christmas 2011 you mean right? My goal is to have all the foam carved and base coated and a couple trains running for Christmas(Family coming from all over US this year) Then I plan to take one section at a time and detail it up nice.

Sure after the holidays, probubly end of January forum member in the area will be welcome to come over and run trains and give me some ideas on the real finishing.

I am going to start with all the accesories that me and my father have bought since I was a kid, but eventially will corner them(the ones I keep) all in one area and replace with scratch built scenes and kits.
Thats my big dream as of now.

Charlie ,dont tell the wife!

Patrick,
I see that you have multiple layers of foam stacked and also see evidence of spray foam expandable insulation. What did you use to glue/fasten each successive layer? I am in the middle of creating my own 9x18 christmas layourt and am up to the foam stage.
Frank

quote:

Originally posted by frankr:
Patrick,
I see that you have multiple layers of foam stacked and also see evidence of spray foam expandable insulation. What did you use to glue/fasten each successive layer? I am in the middle of creating my own 9x18 christmas layourt and am up to the foam stage.
Frank

Minimium expanding foam/(for windows and doors) It dries in less then a hour. Make sure you put a weight on your foam until it dries, do not use max expanding foam.(big crack filler)use gloves

Your progress is outstanding. I like the texture you ended up with after grinding the foam....very nice detail. Keep the pictures coming.

Forget about the texture of the foam, and how to glue it together, what the Heck do you put in your coffee and where do I get some!! Great work Patrick, I enjoy your progress. stunning layout. . Since everybody is watching this post... to all a wonderful Christmas !! We put the "O" in HO..HO..HO.

i think I can see a stop over either b/4 or after Trainstock '11.

It is simply amazing.

I am curious, have you thought about how many trees and such to use for scenery?

That's killer!!

Please forgive my late arrival to the party.
What material did you use to make those flexible fascia?

quote:

Originally posted by Patrick H:

I also have a question;
What are you using for roadbed under the track?
I'm about to start revamping my layout with Scaletrax and will need a roadbed material.

Well it looks like i ll have a few trains running for the family coming over for the Christmas get together.

Thanks to all for the kind words.!!

D&D----Its called OBSEESSSSSSED like most of you crazy train nuts on here. I took off work for the last two weeks, and yes Mountain Dew not coffee. I get motivated around 3 and stay up until 3.

Russell --used homasote ripped for road bed 1/2 inch.

Springo--The flexible facad is temp but it is masonite and 1/4s.


Thanks Guys for the nice thngs you said.



I took all the foam sheets outside. I cut them 4-5 inches wide with the jigsaw. Takes about 10-15 min max to chop up a sheet. I did 3-4 at a time. Brought the strips inside. Once inside you have 2 options, If the 8ft long pieces will bend to the angle you want simply glue and screw it down with 3 inch screws. The first row will bite good. The next couple rows I used 3 inch screws and 16 penny nails to hold each row to the next. If you cant bend it that tight simply cut the ends at various intervals with a drywall knife. You omly have to get it close. The more you have to beat it up later, the better. Stack them 3-4 high. I used low expanding foam like mortar between bricks when stacking the foam.(very small amount) Then I would put heavy wire spools on them for weight as they dried.Maybe 30 min.

Take a cats paw or any tool like it and beat the foam up , taking big and small chunks out of it. The more chunks the better it will look later..

Wait until you have an entire day for the grinder.GLOVES AND MASK. If you have complainers in the house tell them to leave for the day,If you are only going to do small sections at a time nobody will be bothered.
Take the grinder and start horizontally making groves. the closer together the better. Try not to cross the line above or below the one you just made. Intersecting them is good but not X" ing them
You ll get the knack of it.

I did approx 30 ft x 12" each day. You will smell it upstairs during this process if you do more than 30 min at a time. But dosnt stay long.

Painting:
As for painting, i went and bought a 80.00 electric wagner sprayer. Regular cheap choclate brown water based paint and sprayed the whole thing(everything) in 2 days.
No primer etc...

Hope this helps

Here are a few more pics. Sorry about the quality. Hopefully i ll get a real camera for Christmas.

Backdrop still hasnt arrived, but Turntable has.

Gonna finish the basic ground cover first, then like I said earlier wait until after Christmas to take my time and detail it up.

Fabulatastic!

Now, will there be any steel mills on the layout?

Geeesh!

Rick.

I could see a trip to Murrysville PA in order when this masterpiece is done. Absolutely jealouse.

Patrick, how many sheets of foam and cups of coffee are we looking at here?

You can truly say you "set the trains up for Christmas".

Well Patrick....the progress you have made simply puts my 2 years of progress to shame!!! Unbelievable!! This will be one of the most impressive layouts in existance...great job!!

Alan

All I can say is WOW!!!!

Patrick,

Simply outstanding!

You do great work!

You have just been nominated for the 2010 layout Maniac of the Year award.

3 to 3 another midnight cowboy


Bill D

"Simply Mindblowing"........Patrick, you have done in what, 5-6 weeks, what most mortals would have taken months or years to complete.

If they every make "speed layout building" an Olympic sport, you will be the winner hands down in my book. If I hadn't seen the progress pics, I wouldn't have believed it possible.

REV

I am waiting for Patrick's next post to say "Layout finished. Tearing it down to build my dream layout".

Now thats what I call taking care of business, or pleasure. Awesome!

Patrick:

How many N&W hoppers have you found?
I looked at the TCA show but none there.
I emailed about a set on ebay,

Looks great!
Hope to be invited to your open house!

harleyhouse

I may have a source for N&W hoppers - what pn are you looking for?

Thanks guys !! I have 60 of the N&W MTHhoppers 8 atlas now. And Mark yes i seen the ones on the bay, Im watching to make an lower offer later. 130 is what i ve been payin. I think that is plenty for now. I think the front 12 will now have to weighted to not flip coming up around the mountain 2.2% grade.

Of course theirs always the shows.LOL

Awesome Layout... One day when I retire from the military and can plan to live in the same house for more than 3 years, I too will build big!

Just stumbled upon this thread by accident... all I gotta' say is:

WOWWWWW!!!!

Can't believe how much as been accomplished in such a SHORT TIME!

Excellent progress and a really GREAT looking layout! I will be watching this thread!

Good luck!

Andre Ming

A great Christmas present would be an article in OGR detailing this layout.

quote:

Originally posted by BNSF Mike:
I am waiting for Patrick's next post to say "Layout finished. Tearing it down to build my dream layout".

I almost just spit my beer all over the screen laughing at that comment!!!

Love it Patrick...........keep the pictures coming...love the foam too

Tim

Great job! Very, very nice scenery! And the fact you got so much done so fast is truly inspiring! Thanks so much for sharing.

Curious about this beautiful layout...how do you access track in those long tunnels?

quote:

Originally posted by SoCalStu:
Curious about this beautiful layout...how do you access track in those long tunnels?

STU


Fishing Rod , brooms, coat hangers etc...,


Very easy open access. It is all open 2x4 framing inside

I was wondering why it is so hard to find the pink extruded foam out here in CA. You must have cleaned out the factory inventory! LOL Ever count how many 4x8's it took?

quote:

Originally posted by SoCalStu:
I was wondering why it is so hard to find the pink extruded foam out here in CA. You must have cleaned out the factory inventory! LOL Ever count how many 4x8's it took?

Funny you menmtioned that, back in August or sept I posted a complaint about how the pink stuff was being replaced with that NASTY purplish pink stuff. So you see I have a little of everything.

IMHO from best to the worst that you can buy for easy carving . BLUE BEST Green OK Purply is just terrible,

I did call owens corning and they said Canada enviromental laws forced them to change the formula. NO MORE PINK

Absolutely amazing!!! It would be cool to see a little video action now that you have some scenery work done.
Thanks for keeping the photo updates coming!

Patrick
Looks like this thread will have a long life span. How was operating the layout as you noted earlier that you had holiday company and planned to run the layout.

quote:

Originally posted by L.I.TRAIN:
Patrick
Looks like this thread will have a long life span. How was operating the layout as you noted earlier that you had holiday company and planned to run the layout.

Happy New Year!!

The Christmas party went well, So when most of them came to the bottom of the steps they said HOLY ****. Even though its no where near done they got the idea.
They have seen the other layouts Ive done over the years at my old houses but I think this time they get the train obsession. LOL

I ll post some more progress soon for those who are interested .

recieved the turntable and backdrop.

I am attatching the backdrop to the hardboard first then will bend it to the contour around the top of layout to eliminate all the corners.

i have 4 kids alot of Christmas and Holiday running.


Pete--- Later in the week, maybe a little one.

quote:

Originally posted by bigtruckpete:
Absolutely amazing!!! It would be cool to see a little video action now that you have some scenery work done.
Thanks for keeping the photo updates coming!

I really am not ready for video Pete ,the layout is very very raw yet, not even ballasted or any finished sections,but heres a video of a small section of the layout i did my best,(hope you dont get a headache).


When I installed the basement lights I left 2 switchable wires in the ceiling- 1 for direct lighting right over certain sections of the layout and also another extra switched wire for ceiling exhaust fans. Not sure if ill need the fans yet. So my lighting is still very poor.













 

Patrick, the layout is looking great.



I see you got the turntable mounted. Keep up the great work!

Patrick...you my friend are absolutely amazing!! I am beginning to think that you are a zombie and don't need to ever sleep. You not only have a first class layout but you deserve a listing in the Guiness Book of World Records!! Beautiful and breath taking...WOW!!

Thanks for the videos
Alan

Pat, all I can say is WOW!
Wish I could be there.

When I finished my layout I said, should have gone with 2 rail.

Looks great!

Steve

Patrick, that is one truly amazing layout that you have. I definitely think that your layout needs to be featured in a upcoming issue of our favorite magazine here. Outstanding work and keep us all posted!!

Signing on to watch this one.
What a great layout...
Keep up the awesome work.

Patrick,
Excellent work and impressive progress, as always. We'll never tire of your updates.

quote:

When I installed the basement lights I left 2 switchable wires in the ceiling- 1 for direct lighting right over certain sections of the layout and also another extra switched wire for ceiling exhaust fans. Not sure if ill need the fans yet. So my lighting is still very poor.

In case this may be of help, here is what I am doing for lighting in my train room, which is about 33-ft x 38-ft; not quite as large as yours, from what I can tell based on your very nice pictures.

Due to the HVAC duct and beam enclosure (38-ft x 6-ft) and the stairs, the ceiling is divided into three sections that are 12’ x 38’, 16’ x 20’, and 13’ x 33’. For these areas I have, or will have (I already wired them) a total of 14, 4-ft x 2-ft troffers with 4-32W bulbs each. I will also have 12 spot lights.

Of the 14 fluorescent lights, six lights are controlled by one switch (actually three, 4-way switches that are at the stairs and the walkout doors, and at the multiple switch panel), and the remaining eight lights are controlled by two separate switches, four on each switch.

The spot lights are ‘hidden’ from ‘normal’ sight behind the duct enclosure, and are controlled by four switches. (The basement has 8’8” clearance under the engineered joists, and I am installing the suspended ceiling at 8-ft.

I am using the spiral bulb spotlights as I don’t like the heat generated by the normal incandescent spotlights, but they cannot be dimmed; hence the multiple switches. I have these spotlights elsewhere as well and they work fine; save for the 30 seconds or so it takes them to come fully bright.

Instead of dimming, for different light levels, each bank of six spot lights is controlled by two switches: Two lights on one switch, and four on the other switch. This will allow me to select no lights, or two, four, or all six for four different levels of spot-lighting.

And please, do keep posting your updates

Alex

(added) While the fluorescent lights (directly overhead) create no shadows, the spot lights (along one side) will, and this may be used for special effects when taking pictures; that is, with or without shadows.

I dont know how to do the multiple quote thing,
(tell me)


Al
, yes your MILLHOUSE RIVER STUDIO sweet turntable is in. I was wondering how you knew where to weld them ears on the the turntable so that when i mounted it down tight it was perfectly flush all the way around.

Alan Dave and wiz--,

Thanks for the kind words,
i am perplexed as to how many think that i am killing myself building this. Besides the 2 weeks before Christmas marathon, I only spend a couple hours 2-3 days a week down there. The hardest thing i think is to stay in phases.

Steve --
Im only 3.5hrs from Smyrna, let me know which building your bringing up so i can plan it into the layout.LOL


Alex --
I sorta get your idea , pics or drawing would be helpful.After the backdrop I would like to discuss and get some feed back on the lighting, what and where etc this week. I am going to work on the backdrop today . My original intent was to glue it to the hardboard first then instal all at once. Unforntunitely whil testing the first pieces I used a rubber contact glue (as recommended)that left big air bubbles and when bending the board it wrinkled.
So what i decided to do is use 2 sided carpet tape. I am running the carpet tape along the top of the hardboard then pressing the backdrop on that and letting it hang straight. I feel any kind of glueing etc will turn this into a giant nightmare and mess. Whats really befuddles me is the manufacturer of the backdrop is still "experimenting with the best way to hang this stuff" Because of the grades i wasnt exactly sure about backdrop placement,height etc.., However the people who say put the backdrop in FIRST if you can, take their word for it. At least i finished basement before starting.

Patrick,
I have been following this thread for a month or so and concur with all posts in that we are all astonished how much you have accomplished in such short time when most of us just dream about our layouts!!!
Frank

BTW excellent work!

I'm still trying to figure out how he even finds time to post anything on this thread. I must be doing something wrong.
Nice job Patrick, I feel like I've been there with you right from the beginning.

You know Patrick, it would be a lot easier to operate your trains if you mounted that folding chair to a Lazy Susan.

Patrick,


That is some outstanding work, and what a great space for it. Great idea with reguards to the backdrop. Great work.

Patrick,

This is a sketch of how I am doing my lighting. I have used these components before and they have worked fine. I used the same fluorescent troffers in the basement in my last house (much smaller) as well as in the other rooms in this basement, they work well and installation could not be easier. The current draw is just under one amp for each, and the light output is he same or better than the older 4 x 40W fluorescents. Each troffer costs $49 at HD.

I have some of the spot lights (nine instead of the 12 I mistakenly stated earlier) installed already, and their light output appears to be more than sufficient, but I am not done yet. They only draw 220 ma each.

The total current draw for the 14 fluorescent plus the 9 spot lights is around 16 amps, and I have two 15 amp circuits to supply them.



As shown in the sketch:
(Room is 33-ft x 38-ft)
Switch A controls four fluorescent lights outlined in dark blue.
Switch B controls four fluorescent lights outlined in light green.
Switch C controls two spot lights outlined in pink.
Switch D controls four spot lights outlined in purple.
Switch E controls one spot light outlined in light blue.
Switch F controls six fluorescent lights outlined in dark green. These are the main lights, the ones a person would turn on/off when entering or leaving the room, and cab be turned on/off with a switch at the stairs, and the walkout door, and at the switch panel.

Hope this helps.

Alex

PS. Your backdrop looks fantastic! And I agree; better to try to do it before the layout, and obviously, finish the basement first!

Patrick,

Very nice job. I just wanted to give you some input on the backdrop. I believe I have the same and years back they were still experimenting on how to hang it. I put my hardboard up first and then attached the backdrop with the rubber cement - around the perimeter and through the middle or so. Went up fine, looked great - nice product however, one year later it developed the bubbles. Not a few but major bubbles everywhere. I ended up taking it all down and I reinstalled it using the 3M spray adhesive on 100% of the area. Years later - no more bubbles. So hanging it from the top should work for you as long as you don't try mounting the bottom also as I think moisture might have a play in the non-mounted areas expanding/ shrinking etc.

Re lights - it looks like you have the "work" lights under control. For effect lights I just used track lighting mounted above the benchwork fascia. Nice that you can add fixtures as needed, point them where you want etc. Each track is on its own dimmer run off a 24 channel light dimmer panel. Didn't buy that - it was free but I believe CSXAl was looking into some 16 channel ones a few years back in the $500 price range. If I had to do it again, I would have used the 2 channel track lights in some areas to be able to highlight certain things different from what the rest of the track is doing. HD sells the fixtures, but the 2 channel tracks were special order and I didn't care to wait.

Everything above my backdrop is flat black so you don't really see any of it. Don't think you want to do that in your situation but you should check out someones layout to see the effect it gives if you haven't already.

Again, nice job - good luck with the rest of the build. I'm sure you have inspired many to get off their duffs and get some work done on their layouts - I know you have for me. JP

Just quickly scanned through this entire thread. Reading it all at once was like drinking from a fire hose! Simply unbelievable, so I just have one question for Patrick: do you have a job-spouse-kids-other hobbies-need for any sleep at all?

quote:

Originally posted by ddurling:
Just quickly scanned through this entire thread. Reading it all at once was like drinking from a fire hose! Simply unbelievable, so I just have one question for Patrick: do you have a job-spouse-kids-other hobbies-need for any sleep at all?

A few comments:

• WOW. Holy $@#*, Batman! That is an AMAZING layout!!!!
  
• Is sleep on the schedule, somewhere? Or are you mainlining caffeine?

A previous poster said it, you put my progress to shame. And it looks like you are building it with a real attention to detail and quality. Very, very impressive. Congratulations.

George

Patrick, that's a truly phenomenal layout, done with amazing speed and skill. It certainly looks like a good candidate for a magazine article. As others posted, you put my layout progress to shame. In comparison to yours, my layout is just a tiny storage table.

Just scanned this thread and I am stunned. So much quality work in so little time. Very impressed. Keep the progress shots coming. Can't wait to see more.

Maybe this spring, I could come visit?

Patrick,

This is my initial visit to your thread and I cannot think of much to add because my jaw is scraping the floor. After working for more than a year on my own layout I wonder how one person can accomplish so much in such a short time. Perhaps we can compare steam facilities. Your layout must be you great satisfaction.

Eliot

Please help me with some suggestions--of the ideas you have, or have already done to use lighting to highlight certain areas.Even the controls and what they do.

I know very little about lighting and controls and whats out there.

I have left 2 switched wires in the ceiling,
also it is very easy for me to add more and switches in the wall and runs up into the ceiling.

I have moved into a phase where I am making visits to the train room but only to run trainsuntil i gather enough material to get started in specific areas.LOL

DDurling --yes of course i have a job and 4 kids in school and a love for trains!!

Chris--- Thanks you for your compliment


JP----- Anyway, yes I used double sided carpet tape and hung it, Where i was off a little i pulled it back off pretty easy and re applied it. Overall I am happy with the results , although not perfect but pretty nice.

Alex and Jp-----------The lighting. I just got back from International builder show. I went to the big lighting manufacturers booth, while i was there all week(working)

I asked both about the 16 channel and 24 channel light sytem . They didnt know what i meant(neither did I)

Please explain the 16 channel system and how it works?

Alex,--------- I like what you did there.
Im not a fan of the flourescents but i wish i was each month when the light bill comes.


I like the idea of having Light bars with maybe 6-8 spots at different brightness levels, Is that possible?

Jim-- Let me see how things progress , of course i will have a few people over, if theirs something specific send my personal email.

ELIOT---- I have NO service facility to compare LOL YET
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tuVKbqry_sQ

I do have a pretty good plan and soon will do a RRfile of the facility for some feedback around the Turntable.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M2FyXJhAvII

Good Evening Patrick,

As everyone else has said, your layout and progress is just WOW! I wish I could help you with the lighting. I am struggling with the same thing. My room is 20x50 and I went with 6 Fluroscent cover ceiling lights spaced evenly around the room, five feet from the walls. I am doing an around the room layout with middle median. I also used double circuit track lighting down the middle, operational by two separate switches (that lets me put half of the lights on a dimmer). So far I have only purchased 4 LED spot lights but will be buying more (maybe different kinds) as layout/scenery develops and I can see more about the need.



How far are you from York? Currently I am planning on flying into Baltimore (could change depending on where you are located), have drove from Florida the last two shows to bring home (car load) MTH ScaleTrax track, Apr 2010 and Al's 34" turntable, Oct 2010. I was hoping for an open house of your layout. Would really enjoy seeing it in person.

I just got back from orlando.

Ill have to see how far I get. I have been suprisingly busy at work.
I am if i remember correctly about 4 1/2 hours west of York .
You have one heck of a space !! This is only a suggestion and i was told the same.


JP and Alex got me started onthat 16 channel lighting and i am trying to see whats all involve in that.

Cant wait to see it go up!!
Also I havnt seen this pic on your thread, Looking good!!!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tuVKbqry_sQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GVe_BRpy-ww

Patrick,

Layout progress is great!

Here are some links to places to buy some kits, and the DMX website. These [people make what I think you may be looking for. The main idea is that you use a controller - could be software based - that control a number of dimmer "packs" that the electricity goes thru to feed the lighting. This level of control allows you to create scene that set lighting in a particular area, or light setting - dim, color and so forth.

I have used some of this in stages and shows in the past. It appears the costs are much lower than in the past. A great layout like yours could be a great showcase with the proper light set up.

I hope this helps.


some kits
DMX

quote:

Originally posted by Patrick H:
I just got back from orlando.

Ill have to see how far I get. I have been suprisingly busy at work.
I am if i remember correctly about 4 1/2 hours west of York .
You have one heck of a space !! This is only a suggestion and i was told the same.


JP and Alex got me started onthat 16 channel lighting and i am trying to see whats all involve in that.

Cant wait to see it go up!!
Also I havnt seen this pic on your thread, Looking good!!!

Good morning, looks like you are close to Pittsburgh. Would really like to come and visit your layout the week of York. I just checked flights into Pittsburgh and can get Southwest for $69. each way. Sounds great. Let me know if you think this works so I can go ahead and book the flight. If something comes up later that would prevent a visit, I would understand. Very excited about seeing your layout first hand.

Hope you enjoyed your trip to Orlando. I worked for Disney for 21 years

gsn1 ,---- You are a train nut alright! We have a show this weekend at the Greenburgh Train ,Monroeville,Pa Let me see whats going on as far as whos all going to York and if i can maybe finally get some help. Our cluib has been slammed with one show after another. Maybe Ill make somekind of plans.


Rich --- thanks!! I have guitar center here in my city . I asm going to go up there and see what they have and someone who uses them.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tuVKbqry_sQ

Patrick,

When I first switched to flourescents the MFG. engineers walked me through the variables of Kelvin heat ranges (K) and the different color rendition indexs (C.R.I.).

For true color photo work I was told to go with a 6000 plus Kelvin and a c.r.i. of mid/high 90s.

Just for personal eyecandy enjoyment a c.r.i. of 88+ and a Kelvin of 4000+ should be satisfactory. Considerable cost difference when you are talking 50 or more tubes.

Like audio euipment, lighting is rather subjective. For my new train room I am using 2 X 4 88 c.r.i./4000 Kelvin T-8 tubes spaced 30" apart over the linear benchwork around the wall.

Alot of your layout is more of a island in construction and you may wish to use a blanket pattern. Maybe even consider OTTS lights like Joe G did in his new pike. Extreamly even natural light, very efficient.

In any event, you would have to do something really weird to make that beautiful RR of yours anything less than fantastic! You are an great example for all of us.

Consider velcro for the Backdrop Wharehouse hanging w/ sealed seams.

Tom -

Thats some pretty fancy talking for someone like me.


As far as the backdrop its already up and the double sided carpet tape was the way to go for me. As long as you dont press hard until you know its where you want it ,its easy to pull back of,if you do press hard you can still reposition if you take your time. Also when it hangs you dont see any imperfections behind the paper.I need to get 2 more pieces to finish.

As for the lights:

What i am inteurputing from what you described is that I should go with Flourescent fixtures as some suggested.Find the bulbs according to your Kelvin and CRI language, I think your saying there are different heat and type of lighting I can buy? So I should first look for the bulbs you suggested then make sure the fixture holds that type of bulb? For example T-12 or T-8. 2 or 4 ft fixtures.

So in the case when I want to turn day into night , I will still also have to have strip spot lighting above the 3 Islands and Along the wall portins of the layout. The flourescent would go out first then the Incondescents and spots dimm together?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tuVKbqry_sQ

Patrick, some random thoughts:
There are dimable flourescents. I do not have any experience with them.

If you are going to outfit with flourescents I would encourage you to check with the mfg tech dept for special order of quiet starters. The cheap stuff the box stores sell off the shelf have an annoying hum IMO.

As of recent years all the tubes I see at Homer & Lowe's have Kelvin and C.R.I. ratings listed on the box and on their individual wrappers.

I use special order quiet starter twin 4' tube assemblies spaced 30" apart. The spacing is dependant upon a combination of ceiling height and layout height. My basement has a 8' ceiling so it a decent coverage.

Joe G's train room full of Ott lights is perhaps the very best illuminated train room I have ever seen. You may wish to check it out. Absolutely no shadows. I was not aware of that high level of lighting when I did mine. Wish I had Otts instead, but...........

GE markets a Sunshine tube which is excellent.

My background is floorcovering retail and installation. We always had to have high rated tubes to show the true colors . Average flourescent tubes would only confuse the customers. They give false color readings of flooring and models plus IMO set a blah kind of mood in the room.

To get a good idea of what to expect, purchase a few of the better tubes and place them in one fixture and get the budget entry level joe six pack tubes in another adjacent fixture and just look at the difference. IMo it is a no brainer.

I formerly rejected flourescents without consideration due to my ignorance. Several years ago I stumbled onto the tech dept at a supplier and discovered there is a world of variety in the field and it has matured even more recently.

At least take some time and check it out. You are at a cross road right now where a careful selection at this point will save operating cost and provide unparalleled color with cooler temps. A room as large as yours will save on the AC w/o a lot of hot bulbs.

As slick as your curved benchwork is you may also want to check out some under the edge of the layout led strips for aisle down lighting for walking during night train running.

You now have some lighting examples in your mailbox.

Wonderful video!



Peter

I am waiting for the train fund to build up for the lights and 2 more sections of backdrop. In the meantime i am taking a small section at a time and finishing it. Last night I wired up the 3 dz 2500s in this area and disquised them best i could and added some ballast and weathered the track. I am serching for a good switch tower to put in this section.

 

 

 

Looking really good Patrick. How did the weekend go? I am hoping to firm up plans for York within the next week or so. Would really like to swing by and see your layout.

.

....WOW,looking great Patrick! Hey i was wondering. Are you planning to build any of your great looking cliffs, all the way to the floor?

....Sorry if youve already discussed this. There are so many post's on this thread, i havent read them all. Thanks Patrick

Patrick, is that 15/32 OSB?

Jeff,

Thank you for being easy on me.

The short answer is yes.



My plan is now to take 1 small section at a time and work my way around the entire layout and create various scenes that i think are, well, scenic.

There will be modifications to the benchwork and foam as i go around. Especially the boring ground under the bridges and also at the end of the walkways in the "turn arounds", . I have some big plans for lakes etc.. And when i get around to the middle pennisula ,I am gonna cut it up a good bit .I havnt decided what to put on top of it just yet.

Tom,

I dont remember what size that is, if you d like I can measure it for you,all i remember that i had 3 pieces of it left over from when i built the house and the wife kept telling me to throw it out. So instead i used it up.



GSN1: Please send me personal email.

Patrick
Any updates on the layout progress? Also has Tom McComas yet contacted you?

LI:
Ill post a few more this weekend


I am just posting so others can get ideas (as i do from others) and also for those like me who enjoy this stuff.

I had a 4-5 people contact me about various things. Not sure if Thom was one of them , will check emails again. Truth is i am not even considering having anyone come by until after this summer. It might look like alot has been done in a short time, but that was the shell, a long way to go before ill feel like its minimually presentable.




I have been working on a couple buildings and the yard while i save up for the lighting. So ill post a few this weekend.

Thank you for your interest and nice comments guys.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GVe_BRpy-ww

.

....Patrick, thanks for the video. Lookin great!
Hey is that gonna be the location of that little house? At the bottom of the valley?
Also cant wait til you "rust" those rails. Their "Gleaming like a National Guitar"!
Keep goin Patrick, you are doing great things to the souls of this hobby!

Not to much new, Working on the engine service area. The train fund is about ready for the real lighting. Facility is rough right now, i have a few projects going at once. I am not happy with the tone of this "dirt" and static grass, is looks very yellow. (course it may be the sad lighting)
I have since then got some real powdered dirt that i am going to go over this terrible yellow with. I started to put some ballast down and will straighten it up once i get dirt fixed up.

I have been struggling because i want the entire yard to be dirt not cinders. Couldnt seem to find real dirt.

Anyway for those that care, here are some pics. I will be cutting in the ash pit and building a sandhouse and tower.I have the water column. Once i get this facility finished , hopefully in two weeks. I will post a few more pics. Thanks for looking.

Heres a little video to watch , this is a section where i finished the rock from its original base coating.This is what it should all look like when its done.
You can see the big difference from second video.

.


......."& ON THE 7TH DAY,THERE WAS RUST"

Superb layout. I have seen nothing like it in O-gauge. I just noticed your "celotex type" ceiling which should/will absorb a lot of train sound. Even if you are running the entire roster. Not to start a debate[again]but sound tests, or at least one I know of, have shown that celotexed ceiling/walls and a carpeted floor plus a layout skirt are the keys to sound abatement, not the foam or Homasote roadbed we have all worshiped for years.
Great work!

Thanks Dewey , I run all my engines on the lowest possible soung setting anyway when im letting them run for a while.

Heres some more progress. Enjoy.

Patrick on my farm area I wanted dirt roads/driveway, no matter how fine it was any of the commercial products still didn't look right. You want real looking dirt, get out the shovel and fill a 5 gal bucket. Spread it around on baking pans. Bake at 450 and serve when cool lol!

I hear ya Paul,

Except there is 8 inches of snow on it. LOL

I went down to see Jim ,(scenic express) he had 3 types of real dirt. Fine -med -course) the course had some 1/8 to 3/16 pebbles mix in with the dirt.Like on a baseball field.(Thats where i was going to get my dirt.LOL)
After starting to spread the course.
I stopped and spenta half hour with tweezers geting them pebbles back out. Then I used the fine. This stuff is really nice. I didnt buy the medium for this stuff is 10.00 for a small container. Same as the other (ground covers). When i get to the dirt road i will also use the fine but i think the medium would be the ticket there.

That's pretty well the same thing I found, makes a great looking road. I use White Glue and Water 50-50 mix with a drop of liquid soap. I bought a gallon at the local hardware store, and that will cover a whole lot of real estate.

As I am planning to rip down my layout and rebuild it, I have been following this thread, and you are doing a great job with yours!

The Scenic Express dirt is pretty good but pricey by the gallon. I used the course for my river bed.

Here's a shot at a point where I still had several more coats of water to add.

whos trees are they on the left side of the creek bed??

quote:

whos trees are they on the left side of the creek bed??

They are from Grand Central gems.

This is a closer pic of some of their trees in another area. You can see this is a much earlier pic as the track isn't ballasted yet in this pic.

Paul S:

How did you make those hedges? They look very good and I have never seen anything like it in my hobby store.

Didnt get to much more done. Spent alot of time on the round house. Had to redo it many times until i was satisfied with it.

REAL concrete floor 2 Service pits












 

 

 

 

Round house looks great. So do your rails. What is your technique for painting the rails?

See your up late to.LOL

I spray paint them with red oxide primer then before it dries hit it lightly with brown primar. Other areas i mix brown rail floquil with red oxide floquil and hand do it, but mostly try to spray paint if i can.

Patrick,

What did you use in place of your center rail here? What kind of wire is that?

Patrick,
I am trying to get an idea of the space required for your roundhouse & turntable area, including the surrounding track. Looking at the layout you posted on 07 August (that's when I moved into my new house!), it appears that the area is shown in the bottom right hand of the diagram. Is that correct?

Thx!

Alex

PS. BTW, the round house looks great. When I first glanced at this picture (below) I thought I was looking at a full-scale protoype you were modeling.

quote:

What did you use in place of your center rail here? What kind of wire is that?

Just to be silly a little guy in the pit with jumper cables to attach to the rollers would be right out there.

The whole layout looks great.

Alex:

The two tracks that go around the round house are O72 and 080. You can see that the inner 072 has a curved switch, it is 072/064. Originally i planned to do 7 stall roundhouse and have room. But i just felt it was overkill and want to do alot of different things in the service facility besides store engines.

The roundhouse in the picture is 38" wide and from the back of the roundhouse to the far side of the 34" turntable is 75"

Jim:

i am going to put a welding light in each pit.No jumper cables.LOL

Patrick, VERY COOL!!! Rick

Hope you like it Al,

Milhouse River Studios Turntable