Led lights

Yes you cut them at the solder pads which are every three leds. They sell connectors for the cut sections, or you solder wires onto those pads that are left.

I soldered mine with wires to use inside of my passenger cars. I put them on circuits to prevent over powering them and to control their brightness.

There are plenty of posts about this in the electrical forum. Henning's trains sells a control board for inside of cars too.

You will want to power these with DC voltage; not AC.

Match the voltage from the power supply to the voltage rating of the strip (could be +12vdc).

You should be able to light the whole string without any trouble. They don't use much current.

I have extra connectors I can send you if you don't want to solder.

Those look like the bright LED's, if you're using them for passenger cars, they're gonna' be pretty bright!   I use the 3528 LED strips, those look like the 5050 LED's.  They consume more power than the 3528 strips, and will be much brighter.

Okay - the electrical part of this hobby is not my thing so bear with me.    

Some more facts for you....

using them for buildings not passenger cars 

they are warm white yes they appear to be 5050

I have attached a picture of a power supply I found lying around -  it lights them up  but wanted to be sure it was enough over time    What am I looking for to determine that?

lights are 12v

my plan is to cut lights appropriate for building (in 3’s)  then clip or solder wires and run to next building - repeat at next building etc and power all with this one source

John - sure I would like to try those clips if you have excess     Let me know how much?

Thanks 

michael

msp posted:

...

I have attached a picture of a power supply I found lying around -  it lights them up  but wanted to be sure it was enough over time    What am I looking for to determine that? 

I'm not seeing the photo.  If you do post one, useful if we can read the make/model or any labeling referring to Volts, Amps, Watts and the like.

Photo posted

The LED strip connectors are easy to use and provide reliable connections, at least in my experience.  The connectors require no soldering to attach to the strip, just snap the lid closed like a clam shell.  They are inexpensive on the bay.  I tend to use individual LEDs to light my buildings.  I use the strips where I desire uniform lighting like for loading docks, subway platforms, etc.  I haven't branched out to passenger cars yet but that is another application.   Follow GRJ advise on brightness and color temperature.  I would do a test run in one of your building to make sure you're getting the desired effect.

From what I can tell from your LED strip manufacturer's website, your 5-meter (300 LEDs, 100 3-LED segments) 5050 LED strip consumes 40 Watts...or 8 Watts per meter.

Your 12V power adapter can supply 750 mA or 0.75 Amps.  Watts = Volts x Amps, so that's "only" 9 Watts.

So your adapter can power about 1 meter of your 5 meter strip.  That's about 60 LEDs or 20 3-LED segments. 

If you look at the manufacturer website they recommend a 60 Watt power supply adapter.

Stan - perfect 

thanks 

shorling posted:

TheLED strip connectors are easy to use and provide reliable connections, at least in my experience. 

Steve, do you have a link to the connectors?

I try to stay current with the LED discussion, especially when GRJ or Stan are supplying the data/info.  But I've been off the forum for a while and missed that one.

Thanks.

Ok guys - I’m pumped up second kit I have built first installation of lights

let me know what you think -  first off it might be a little bright.   Actually looks brighter in pic than in real life 

other than that I would love feedback.  Yes there will be a background to cover up shelving.  

That is 15 0f those 5050’s across the top 

Good job!

Pingman posted:

shorling posted:

TheLED strip connectors are easy to use and provide reliable connections, at least in my experience. 

Steve, do you have a link to the connectors?

I try to stay current with the LED discussion, especially when GRJ or Stan are supplying the data/info.  But I've been off the forum for a while and missed that one.

Thanks.

Here's a few:

f:0" target="_blank">https://www.ebay.com/itm/10X-F...Swr8xaAohb:rk:3f:0

There were a lot of choices

msp posted:

Ok guys - I’m pumped up second kit I have built first installation of lights

let me know what you think -  first off it might be a little bright.   Actually looks brighter in pic than in real life 

other than that I would love feedback.  Yes there will be a background to cover up shelving.  

That is 15 0f those 5050’s across the top 

Looks great, I have one recommendation.  Arrange to have a few windows dark and maybe reduce the intensity of the lighting in a couple to simulate real life.

Building looks great. I like the road, also.

there is another thread discussion about using too much power on a menders building.   As stan2004 pointed out above...a certain power source will supply power to a certain number of lights....do i need to make sure to use the full number of lights in other words...if I use a string of less lights than my power source is capable of supplying do i run a risk of overpower and blowing them.

Hope that makes sense.

msp posted:

there is another thread discussion about using too much power on a menders building.   As stan2004 pointed out above...a certain power source will supply power to a certain number of lights....do i need to make sure to use the full number of lights in other words...if I use a string of less lights than my power source is capable of supplying do i run a risk of overpower and blowing them.

 Hope that makes sense.

No, the voltage is fixed, and only the current required for the existing lights will be used.  It's the same as if you plug a 15 watt lamp into your 120V socket at home.  The socket can supply up to around 1800 watts, but it only supplies enough power to light the 15 watt lamp.

thanks.