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The engine is 6-11451 So i am running it conventionally with a zw 6-32930 sometimes when i power it up the engine will buzz its a deep loud buzz and the light will sit there flashing three times over and over and no smoke but then u shut it off and turn it back on once or twice the buzzing and flashing stops and the smoke will work perfectly and it works fine i thought i red somewhere the buzzing is bad and how do i fix it

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Three blinks is the main fan motor.  You simply grab a blade with the needle-nose pliers and pull straight up, they're a friction fit.  When you replace it on the new motor, make sure it's slightly below the level of the bowl but NOT rubbing at the base.  It has to be allowed to run freely.  Also, note the polarity of the old motor and maintain it for the new one, if the fan runs backwards, the smoke volume and velocity will suffer greatly.

While you have the smoke unit open, you might want to at least place a small amount of oil on the other fan motor shaft. I place a small external DC power to work the oil into the shaft.  Listen for the improved sound of the motor.

Also, there is a small red gasket on the DSMK units that is easily broke when you pull it apart.  Lionel does sell these as an individual part.  I have to replace them about 50% of the time.  Usually when the smoke unit has been over heated.

Last edited by DaveGG

I might not get to it tonight i have to drag everything back out and hook it up but i will have to try it with the smoke turned off i feel like i should just change them both out cause in the past four days ive had the engine opened three times working on this smoke unit it a big pain in the butt is there a way to check the motors with a digi multi meter cause i hooked them up with a old used 9v and they turn every time

Got to it today oh man this thing smoke comes out everywhere 🙂 is it normal that smoke comes out the whistle hole even when not blowing the whistle when blowing the whistle it come out of the whistle and some blows out the normal smoke stack as well a little bit. the three flashing lights is gone it still has a buzz but it is a lot better now

Last edited by Francostrains

Hmm,  Something doesn't look right. Yes, I would expect some leakage, but that amount is excessive.  You may want to take a look at the smoke funnel on top of the smoke unit and make sure it is positioned correctly with/under the main smoke stack. Just a thought.

When you disassembled the smoke unit, was the red gasket in good shape? Were you able  to re-use the red gasket?

Also, does the buzzing only occur when the smoke unit is running?  If so, you may want to look at the fan blade position and see if it is at the correct height/position so it does not rub against anything.  It's strange you would have buzzing if you replaced both smoke fan motors. I was not able to distinguish the buzzing sound when I watched the video.  If you would like, post a video with the sounds off? Sorry about the thought of taking it apart again...

Dave ill get a video of the buzzing tomorrow, also there is no red gasket anywhere on it i have grey gasket which is brand new that i put on the original one i took out was green and it is still good i saved it. I wish there was a way to look at it while it was running can i do that with the boiler off and all the lights cause it would be the three wires in the front and two wires in the back that would not be connected with it off

Yep, item #3 is the one.  Mine flaked apart when I had to rebuild mine.

As far as running your engine with the the shell off -
Yes it can be done.  But I believe this engine has the smoke unit mounted to the boiler shell and therefore if you disconnect the wires to the shell, you will not be able to troubleshoot the smoke unit.  Having the lights disconnected should not be an issue.  You can also disconnect the wires (plug in) for the antenna.  With the shell off, the the signal from the remote  will reach the required board, allowing you to control the function of the engine.  Oh wait, you are running this as conventional are you not?  In any case, conventional control should work as intended with the shell off.

Do you have access to a stationary test track with rollers?  If you did, you would be able to have the shell off and supported along side the engine chassis.  And with the engine stationary (not moving), you would be able to see what is happening.  You would not need to have the tender attached to test the engine in of itself.

In photo #1, the funnel I was referring to, is item 20.  It mounts to one side of the dual smoke unit.  The other side, as you know, has an elbow that then attaches to the clear plastic tubing that goes to the whistle steam outlet port.  Just make sure these are all connected "properly".  There is lots of small screws involved.  By the way, inspect the tubing as I had to replace some of mine. Over time they can deteriorate from use/heat.  Mine was actually cracked and was somewhat brittle.

Hope this helps.

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