Updated 3-30-2015 Legacy-TMCC control of switch machines

What switch machines do you have currently?

I would just use an SC1 or SC1 to control them.

I have the a well know manufacturers machines and one of them took out for 3rd time the data wire driver enough is enough.

 

so am looking for a better switch machine that is top mounted as mounting under the layout isn't an option due to tracks right below them.

A fellow train club-er had the DZ2500s and variable results, so he went back to the DZ1000s and Lionel SC-2s for command control.

I am NOT saying it was the DZ2500s, but the 1000s were a better choice for hin and his setup. 

thanks all for replies and ideas to try.

 

a side note whatever is wrong seeing I cannot get z-2500's to respond other than to curved position using the push button you can wire in separately. the switch push button will switch it from straight to diverging and back but not so much with the button controller.

 

and when things start going south the ser-2 starts chattering and I had only one switch motor wired in so all others not powered.

 

on a happier note my BPC's work flawlessly with the ser-2 no chattering at all.

 

another question the one machine starting it all the green light was glowing and the red light was flashing on and off I looked in instructions and nary a mention of it so anyone here run across it if so what does/did it mean??

 

 

 

Sometimes the LEDs in the switch motor or button get mixed up with these. If they are in the wrong position things go awry.  It is good you have only wired one switch.  I should say I have used ASCs not SCs.  And TMCC not Legacy.  Try switching over the green and red LEDs first at the button, then the switch.  I think that worked for me with the double crossover.  Best of luck.  The stuff does work really well once you get the hang of it and get the bugs out.  Have fun.

issue #1  discovered you cannot reverse the red and black wires from the button remote this causes the ser-2 and z-stuff components to chatter I tested it to clarify so would that mean the ser-2 was like a transformer and set things out of phase so to speak?

 

I have wired the button remote as per instructions figure #2 red to ac + and black to common and white wire from button remote to the switch motor white wire.

 

pushing button will change route from straight to diverging and both switch motor and button remote shows a bright red led no green light is glowing but it will not turn it from diverging to straight using only those 3 wires!

 

I tried 3 different button remotes all same response as above. so I added the blue wire to the white wire and now it will throw back and forth but!

 

I never hear the switch motor moving from diverging to straight but it does change and light goes from red to green but also the red light is dimly lit as well as a bright green light.

 

the only way I could get it to work was wiring both white and blue wires together from the switch motor.

and for those that have  the instructions in figure #2 what I did isn't correct or am I missing something??

 

thanks for any insight as to what i am not doing correctly here.

I choose 2 dz 2500 switch motors wired red to ac hot and black to common and both white wires from switch motors to the white wire on the dz 2502 controller and now it works using only 3 wires!

 

only thing I did was used the switch motors to set in tmcc mode even though data driver not workable but figured it would make sure switch motors not in 2 wire mode!

 

that is only thing different from prior attempts at 3 wire hookup.

 

even so when both switches in straight setting all 3 leds are green but the red led on 2502 is still lit dimly is this normal other than that it works so will assume all is well unless someone says differently.

I found a new unused dz2500 in misc parts box!
I installed where the one switch motor caused it all.
After getting adjusted the issue has been replicated. all wiring is correct but seems when button pushed it changes to curved/straight but now and then it will not kill the power to switch motor and is still energized in that direction.

This also is where the red light starts flashing and isn't easy to get it to stop.

also only happens when switch asked to change to curved route it will stop midway requires a second push to set points correctly. I have tried holding the button down longer no help.
am thinking bad switch motor.

so those of you using the dz 1000 are they better than the dz 2500 for this and all other possible issues?

I think there are limit switches to adjust.

Do the instructions say anything about that?

cjack   no mention of limit switch adjustment in instructions.

 

I emailed z-stuff see what they have to say on this issue will advise when I hear from them.