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I had my nephew build these for me after seeing what fellow forum member Alex M. had done with his layout. With wheels on it they can be swung away from layout if work needs to be done under it.F73A985F-8CF4-4D32-B848-5DAA1AB32737CC8816F8-97B0-4C9D-B26A-DA976934C4740A6AABC1-F7E9-487D-97F5-1242CA5E7F29CF1E5B00-24A7-4AF1-9DAC-50ECAD3317AC

Those shelves look great, any issues with the two tracks per shelf and reaching the back row?

Also, is that a custom built test track on top?  I need to make one of those and curious how that was done?

@Don Beck posted:

After looking at all this, I'm too embarrassed to show my lowly aluminum shelves...all I can say is that we are sick, sick people to collect all of these toys...oh my LOL

I am even more embarrassed to show my lowly aluminum shelves, especially since they were used when I bought them.  Approximately 1/2 of them were turd brown in color, so I had to repaint them white.   

@steam posted:

Very nice ideas, thanks everyone!  

I never thought of using molding, that's a great idea.  

About how often do you have supports to prevent much sagging?

Fairly close as the moulding is quite flexible. I use 'L' brackets with the piece against the wall placed UP so that it is not visible below the shelf - the trains themselves obscure the bracket easily. You could also run some small quarter-round against the wall to add further support and use less brackets.

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Last edited by c.sam

I am even more embarrassed to show my lowly aluminum shelves, especially since they were used when I bought them.  Approximately 1/2 of them were turd brown in color, so I had to repaint them white.   

Nation WIde Lines - Not to worry, with the vast quantity and quality of beautiful train items here, rest assured that no one is scrutinizing your shelves!!!!  No foul smells here either....  :-)

Please note that I did not repost ALL of his photos; just one to reference my comments thus saving everyone useless extra scrolling when viewing this thread!









Last edited by c.sam

Here is review of how I built my train shelves, complete details at OGR link below on post 36.  It shows details for shelves under windows too.



https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...ra-027-layout?page=4



Train Shelves - Economical, Wall Friendly and Moveable


Three wall, easy to build, economically, wall friendly and moveable train shelves were made in the 1980's and were installed in a hall ways and/or a spare bedrooms of three prior houses and the current house.  Each shelve is made in two sections each to allow moving thru doors and up stairs.  They also stand on the floor and are held to the wall by two 1" x 1" angles screwed into a wall stud per section, meaning only two small holes in the wall are required.  The shelves are backed with 1/8" Masonite, with some strips of white felt glued to the back, to protect the wall.  The shelves have router grooved surfaces to hold the train wheels and keep the cars and engines from rolling off.  The design has one wider 1" x 6" wide shelve, one half way up and one wider 1" X 8" top shelf to allow display of wider accessories or other items in addition to the typical train cars and engines.



Construction is 1" x 4" straight pine #2 lumber with grooves routed in for train wheels.  It is usually less expensive to buy 1x 4 x 8 ft long #2 common pine boards at Home Depot and picked through them to find straight boards.  Knots are not that important to me as they can be filled in and painted over.  The length of the shelves can be any you like up to 8 ft with this type of shelve boards.  I place the shelves with a 4 1/2 in open space between each shelve.  Mine are 7 ft 2 in tall and have 16 shelves with the bottom one 3 1/2 off the floor (about the height of my baseboards).  They are nailed together with two 2 1/2 inch finish nails per shelf each end and have 1/8 " Masonite, nailed with 3/4" roofing nails every 6 inches on each shelve, on the back to keep the shape square, keep the shelves from sagging and to keep from marking wall.  Pieces of white felt are glued on the back of Masonite to keep from marking wall also.

I filled knot holes and nail holes with DAP Plastic Wood Latex Based Wood Filler, Natural and primed the shelves and backing Masonite with Kilz primer probably oil based but would use latex now.  I chose to paint the shelves glossy off white latex paint.  I think the light color makes the train engines and cars show up better and makes the room brighter and more cheerful.  I use a 3 in x 12 in piece of clear Saran Wrap on the shelf where an engines go to keep the white shelf clean of grease from the wheels.


View of one shelve shown below   The 8 inch wide shelf is shown on top and one 6 inch wide shelf is in the   middle with the picture framed pictures and milk car and cattle car accessories.  There are some powered track to operate the accessories and operating cars on this shelf.

IMG_0389

Charlie

Last edited by Choo Choo Charlie

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My dad custom made my shelves. The shelves are 1x4s that he ran through a dado setup on his radial arm saw to produce slots spaced for the wheels. The backing is bead board and the edge trim is off-the-rack stock from Menards. The colors are standard paint colors from Lowes that match the original green and cream Lionel Hellgate bridge.  I have four of these shelves (all of different sizes) on the available wall space in the train room.

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Last edited by Rider Sandman

Like most hobbyists, my modest collection includes many more trains than can be accommodated on sidings at my layout for "parking" until called up for service. I allocated the four spur sidings on the layout to the LionChief trains for my great grandkids - THOMAS series trains plus a Dinosaur train.

Now that some of the youngsters have grown older and are less enamored with trains, I intend to "take back" some (maybe all) of those sidings for my trains that can negotiate O42 curves. The "deluxe" O-scale trains that can't travel across O42 curves will remain in place on display shelves -- probably forever, unless I win the lottery and can afford to significantly expand the size of the Train Room.

Photos attached.

Mike Mottler    LCCA 12394

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All very cool!

Nothing so grand as many of those in this thread, and it's been posted several times before, but there is a recent addition - on the floor -

Cheers,

- Mike




All very cool but this, that’s neat the curved glass shelves for the entire train! NICE 👍 💪

I am a little shy with my collection; rather not post publicly. I do set up some passenger equipment up in the TV room along the ceiling 😁 . Right now my PRB and Key 14 car 1940 Daylight is on display. Wife allows it …fir now 🙄😂

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Last edited by Erik C Lindgren

Well this is a great thread, the pictures of all your collections are super.  Mine are more modest and are in two parts.  I have a glass front storage case in my office/den for mostly early and pre-war trains + plus a modest collection of clockwork boats (mostly Suitcliff).  Then I have train room shelves for much of the rest, but even so a fair amount is packed away in plastic containers...(really of no use to anyone but I do  not have the room to display it all)

This is the glass front cabinet downstairs.  My wife found this cabinet (no insides) at an antique fair when we lived in Boston for one year.  We refinished it and put in glass shelves.

Train Cabinet

Upstairs in the train room, I have sort of surrounded the layout with shelving.  This plain, white pine painted shelving came out of a drug store that was closing in Dayton, Oh...his business was in the basement of the office bldg where my wife worked as a nurse for a pediatric group.  She found out he was leaving and asked about the shelving (it was perfect for trains as it was narrow, designed for small boxes and bottles).   She negotiated a very small price, given we agreed to remove it from the space before a certain date (which we were going to do anyway)...So it became my train display shelving.  We have had it now for over 30 years.

Layout Overview

Here is a better view of the main (longest) wall display.

Train Room Shelving white shelves

Last year I wanted to display some sets I have acquired and used Snyder shelving on the remaining open wall.

Train Room Shelving Snyder shelves

Best wishes and Happy railroading

Don

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"I like that. Homemade or kit?"
Jim

Bought it from a vendor in the Orange hall twenty years ago. He has since retired. He was a former shop teacher with a full woodworking shop in his basement. It had to be custom ordered, so I returned to the area to pick it up two months later. Its 6' wide and 3' high with glass doors. Being limited by available space, this was all I could put up in a shared room. Everything else is stored in boxes that are in Iris tubs (as usual). These sets are my "cream of the crop".

@PRRick posted:


I have a glass front cabinet I use, but I'm out of space. I'm hesitant to install shelving due to dust. Does anyone dust their collection?

No photo but I use a Rainbow canister vacuum (Looks like R2-D2)  that runs the dust through a water bath. Have a nice circular soft bristle brush that gently dislodges the dust as it's being sucked up. The water bath ensures that unlike most, the return air is clear and dust proof. Great little machine.

Last edited by c.sam

I run a couple air cleaners all the time to keep the dust under control and it makes a big difference. I also try and touch everything once a year and manually dust with canned, air or run through my compressed air “train wash” built into my layout that we bought 20 years ago, or I even use a basic super soft duster and wipe things manually with baby wipes if needed. Once you get them clean and keep the air filters going it is not hard to keep the dust under control.

Wow, compared to most of the prior posters, my collection is *much* more modest, but I *am* proud of my effort to squeeze much needed storage space into a basement wall alcove behind the drop-down backdrop covering the wall behind my layout, just big enough (barely, for now!) to hold the rolling stock not currently in service on either the main layout, or my test track.

The first shot was during construction and before I rehung the backdrop (the picture visible behind the shelving is a paper mock-up I printed earlier and pieced together while designing the backdrop, which I attached to the wall before installing the shelves):

The second shot is with the backdrop rolled down over the shelving:

Construction of the shelving was very simple -- 1X4 dimension lumber, with two grooves cut into the top of each shelf to fit the rolling stock wheels, and small vertical dowel sections at each shelf end to keep the items on the shelf, with vertical 1X2 strips screwed behind the shelves and secured to the wall. Here's a detail, from before I added the background and relocated the sign:

 

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Here a write up on how to build train shelves inexpensively and explaining why they were build this way.  I have made the shelf spacing ( 4 1/2 inch opening) as close as practical to maximize use of space

Charlie

Train Shelves - Economical, Wall Friendly and Moveable


Three wall, easy to build, economically, wall friendly and moveable train shelves were made in the 1980's and were installed in a hall ways and/or a spare bedrooms of three prior houses and the current house.  Each shelve is made in two sections each to allow moving thru doors and up stairs.  They also stand on the floor and are held to the wall by two 1" x 1" angles screwed into a wall stud per section, meaning only two small holes in the wall are required.  The shelves are backed with 1/8" Masonite, with some strips of white felt glued to the back, to protect the wall.  The shelves have router grooved surfaces to hold the train wheels and keep the cars and engines from rolling off.  The design has one wider 1" x 6" wide shelve, one half way up and one wider 1" X 8" top shelf to allow display of wider accessories or other items in addition to the typical train cars and engines.  Some of my shelves have track sections and are powered to allow lighting of train cars.



Construction is 1" x 4" straight pine #2 lumber with grooves routed in for train wheels.  It is usually less expensive to buy 1x 4 x 8 ft long #2 common pine boards at Home Depot and pick through them to find straight boards.  Knots are not that important to me as they can be filled in and painted over.  I used 5 min epoxy glue(fingered on)  to coat the knots to keep them from bleeding through the white paint which I chose to make the trains show out better. The length of the shelves can be any you like up to 8 ft with this type of shelve boards.  I place the shelves with a 4 1/2 in open space between each shelve.  Mine are 7 ft 2 in tall and have 16 shelves with the bottom one 3 1/2 off the floor (about the height of my baseboards).  They are nailed together with two 2 1/2 inch finish nails per shelf each end and have 1/8 " Masonite, nailed with 3/4" roofing nails every 6 inches on each shelve, on the back to keep the shape square, keep the shelves from sagging and to keep from marking wall.  Pieces of white felt are glued on the back of Masonite to keep from marking wall also.

I filled knot holes and nail holes with DAP Plastic Wood Latex Based Wood Filler (update- I now seal the knots with 5 min epoxy to better hide them when painting, too), Natural and primed the shelves and backing Masonite with Kilz primer probably oil based but would use latex now.  I chose to paint the shelves glossy off white latex paint.  I think the light color makes the train engines and cars show up better and makes the room brighter and more cheerful.  I use a 3 in x 12 in piece of clear Saran Wrap on the shelf where an engines go to keep the white shelf clean of grease from the wheels.


View of one shelve shown below   The 8 inch wide shelf is shown on top and one 6 inch wide shelf is in the   middle with the picture framed pictures and milk car and cattle car accessories.  There are some powered track to operate the accessories and operating cars on this shelf.

IMG_0389


View below shows joint between two half's of shelves. ,  Holes were drilled in the ends of both side boards and two, 3 inch finish nails, with heads sawed off, were inserted in the holes to allow the two sections to be secured.



Notice the grooves for wheels routed with veining bit on all shelves, a 6 inch wide shelf is one half way up 16 shelves.  Also note the picture shows the joint between the two shelve sections that are aligned with cut off finish nail to keep the sections secure.

003


Some 6 inch wide shelves allow display of extra accessories and figures.

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Photo below shows powered track to allow lighting cars

009


Next picture shows shelf legs setting on floor, showing cut out for base board.  Extra, a Boxcar Willie LP record.

008


Top shelf is 8 inch wide to hold other train items

014


Over all view of all 3 shelves which were moved to from the house to the new 2010 train/all purpose room over a new two car garage/shop.

007

The two large shelves on the left and right of the picture above were in the halls and spare bedroom of my present house for many years until the train room was built making the spouse very happy!

Notice in last picture I have added two more small shelves under two windows for more trains.  One never has enough trains and thus shelves.


Small shelf under window shown below.

IMG_0393

All shelves are standing on floor and held to wall with 1in X 1in angle brackets screwed into studs.  Shelves come apart to allow removal and moving to another room or house.  Build once for life!


Some train storage on the shelve hints are below.

Post war locos with Magna-traction are put on a section of steel track to act as a "magnet keeper" and hopefully help save the magnets.

For engines with traction tires I keep them off the wood or track to protect against flat spots.

I also store all cars and trains with the couplings open to "save the springs".

I use a 3 in x 12 in piece of clear Saran Wrap on the white or light colored shelves where greased engines are stored

I do not know if any of this makes a difference but I feel better.


Update: May 2020 :   A fourth shelf section was built and is the last section of trains shelves.  I have noticed a couple of knots are showing as slight yellowish through on some of my three original 30 plus years old shelves.  I have searched for a cure to hide sappy knots and some Kilz B-I-N shellac based primer is recommended but does not always work.  I have purchased my boards at Home Depot and the choice of #2 cheap lumber is of a much lower quality than in days past and this lot had several knots on about one half of the boards.  I have decided to not buy the expensive shellac based Kilz for this small job and have decided to use cheap Harbor Freight 5 minute clear epoxy glue, to seal the knots.   I applied it thinly with my finger tip.  We will see in a few years if it works at keeping the knots from showing thru.

I now have four larger sections plus two short sections under the windows, totaling 425 linear feet and built my last shelf section.


Picture below shows all train shelves, with new in May 2020 longer shelf section the on right

IMG_1226

Charlie

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Last edited by Choo Choo Charlie

Sorry that my pictures got posted before I could comment. I’ve the advantage of having a friendly neighbor who has lots of top notch woodworking equipment in his shop and knows how to use it!  After we built the 16x8 layout, he decided a red oak rail around it would add a finishing touch. So of course when I asked about shelves, we made those out of the same material. The shelves are 110” each, and hung on the wall using industrial rated z-bar (400lb rating). I considered grooving the shelves, but I really wanted to be able to power the locos on the shelves, so we ended up using FastTrack instead, and I’m glad that we did!  The look of surprise on folk’s faces when the locos on the shelves start up and light up is priceless!  They’re all Legacy, so they stay put, and I don’t move them even an inch!  I was also concerned about flat spots on my traction tires, but then realized the shelves are more of a staging area for my locomotives and not a display space. I typically rotate them out every 3-4 weeks, and so far, I’ve had no issues. The next project (we start tomorrow) is to build shadowboxes (6” depth) under the two ends of the display. Each will be 85” long and 28” high, with only 3 shelves. I know that I could have fit 4 in each, but I like to have more room to see the rolling stock (and dust it) so I’m splitting the space between only 3. Will send pictures when those are done. I’m planning to use LED Lightstrips in aluminum channels mounted on the shelf above to illuminate the trains.  It will likely take a few weeks to finish, as we’re both pretty meticulous. I’ll end up with another 42 feet of display space though, so it will be worth it!  Sorry that this didn’t make it on the same post as the photos.

Santa came early this year! Thanks to the remarkable craftsmanship of my friend and neighbor, I now have 42’ more of display shelves for my O-Gauge collection! Together, we designed 2-7’ wide x 6” deep shadow boxes for each end of my 16’ x 8’ layout (which Ed built in 2021). Along with the 45’ of wall mounted display shelves that Ed built in 2022, I finally have the space to display all of my locomotives and rolling stock that’s not up on the layout! Ed continually improved the design, adding red oak trim along the face of each shelf, and reveals along both sides and the top to create quite literally 2 pieces of fine furniture. We were able to conceal Philips Hue Lightstrips in diffuser channels above each of the shelves, allowing the trains on display to be illuminated with virtually any color desired.

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I used 1x 4 wood boards with 1x3 boards behind to hold it all together and those are located where the wall studs are.
There is 2 separate shelving units of 10- 7 foot shelves going floor to the 9 foot ceiling.
This is in the office/TV room. Some engines have been sold and replaced with a few others.
C998BCF6-EA10-4F56-81B9-BA216A265E0FThe next picture is a similar unit I built on the back wall of the garage and it spilled over to the wooden units on the right that the previous owner built around the garage walls. All my wood was stained before hanging up.
D8F0B057-3098-4067-A830-0BCBD370C189I am out of shelving space so I selectively buy these days.

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Last edited by Ted Bertiger

I used 1x 4 wood boards with 1x3 boards behind to hold it all together and those are located where the wall studs are.

Interesting -- I came up with essentially the same configuration (1X4 shelves, with grooves cut into the top to fit the wheels and pegs at each shelf end, secured to the wall with vertical 1X2 boards) for my *much* smaller collection. In my case, though, the wall was cinder block covered by a vinyl waterproofing sheet, so I just drilled holes and used lag bolts. Since I usually cover them with a roll-down backdrop when the layout is in use, I just left them unfinished.

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Last edited by Steve Tyler

Missed this post in January. I needed to hang my display shelves from interior framed walls and decided to use 1x4 medium quality pine. Basic box frame, dados for the shelves and 1x4 supports in the back screwed into the wall studs. Overkill with screws, but considering the $$$ value in engines, did not want to take any chances.  This is the latest addition. Bottom unit is roughly 4x4, upper 10x2.  Built to fit the constraints of the space. Similar to @Steve Tyler build.  Now I only have to consider how to repel dust !!!

wall shelf small

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@ScoutingDad posted:

Now I only have to consider how to repel dust !!!

Well, maybe the roll-down backdrop in front of it helps, but even in a frequently-dusty basement, my rolling stock has stayed fairly clean on the storage shelving. Perhaps a clear vinyl sheet in front, or something similar, might help? Then again, maybe the dust is there, and it's actually just my failing eyesight . . .

Steve Tyler,

When I moved the price of lumber was cheaper. 1x4 furring wood was about $1.30 each so I bought about 35-8 foot boards and made sure each was not warped. The 1x3 boards were about $1.20 each and they served as the connecting vertical boards. I did use 1x4 on the left side anchored to the side wall and shelves. To the right, I left it open and then put up an 18” shelving unit for a UP passenger set with a ABA set. Mistake was not putting a vertical board there so I put L brackets under each shelf there to stabilize the weight of the engines so the shelves did not sag.
I have some weight on this wall and it has been up for almost 7 years. My issue here is no layout, I put up a dual loop garage layout when the weather gets nice. Comes winter, I’m ready to put both cars in for snow which we have not had much last year.
I run trains at my club which is 4-5 miles away from my house so that serves as my meds and therapy from reality! Lol!

What is nice about the shelving system I built is there is about 9-12 screws into the wall studs inside the house so when we ever move again, there will be minimal damage to the sheetrock.
Those metal rack systems do create a lot of holes in the walls.

Last edited by Ted Bertiger

When I moved the price of lumber was cheaper. 1x4 furring wood was about $1.30 each so I bought about 35-8 foot boards and made sure each was not warped. The 1x3 boards were about $1.20 each and they served as the connecting vertical boards. I did use 1x4 on the left side anchored to the side wall and shelves. To the right, I left it open and then put up an 18” shelving unit for a UP passenger set with a ABA set. Mistake was not putting a vertical board there so I put L brackets under each shelf there to stabilize the weight of the engines so the shelves did not sag.

What is nice about the shelving system I built is there is about 9-12 screws into the wall studs inside the house so when we ever move again, there will be minimal damage to the sheetrock.

Yeah, for those of us who formed our financial baselines a few years ago, visiting the local Home Depot can bring on sticker shock, for sure! I find running a mental financial calculator in advance helps, if I can figure out when I last bought an item and what I paid for it, so I can prepare myself when I come fact to face with the price tags of today!

Building with an eye toward eventual removal is almost always a good idea. In our case, though, I think they're going to have to scrape us out of here, since we have no plans to relocate!

Too many engines and no place to put up shelves.  Our home is an 1884 Victorian. The foundation is all stone work and my layout is located in the basement.  There is no smooth surface on the walls for shelves.  I built frames aroung the outside walls of the layout.  It hides the junk underneath and gave me a great way to display my engines and to transfer them to the track when I want a change in operations.

I built the first shelf in 2022. I kept buying more and need another shelf.  The first shelf was done using Glen Snyder shelves.  I wanted to build the next shelf with the Glen Snyder shelves.  Called them but never got a return call. So, I went on the forum and posted a "want to buy" thread.  Immediatly I got a response from @ted.  He had what I needed gave me a great price and sent the package via UPS the same day.  So this is a big shout out to @ted.

Below are picture of both shelves.  The first is the new one 9' long with 4 shelves and the second is the orginal shelf 18' long with 4 shelves.

Glen Snyder Shelves 1Illuminated

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The spare bedroom that serves as my train room lacked sufficient square footage for book case type shelves with my original plan for an around the walls layout and I didn't want to install wall mounted shelves above the layout so the original plan was under the layout display shelves for engines and operating cars to protect the electronics and boxed storage in the garage for rolling stock.  Once I had gotten the rolling stock stored to make room for around the walls layout I realized door, window and closet placement would really limit the curve radii at both ends of the layout so a much smaller island layout is where I'm headed.  To get the Engine boxes out of the way I had to get them on shelves so the empty boxes could go to the attic.  I lost 3 feet of room length plus access to the shelves making the space for the layout that much smaller.  I picked up these metal shelves at liquidator type discount store for about half the going rate at the big box DIY stores.

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