Limited movement or no movement on some of my MTH PS2 Engines

Batteries first.

Even though the sounds are working?

The rumors you say you've heard are false.  I have some engines that have been running PS2 for 17 years, and I have never had a motor go bad.

You didn't mention their age.  The original PS2 locos used an 8.4 volt battery.  They can be identified by either no charging port underneath (under the tender if steam) or by a round charging port.  If you have any of those, do not power them up until you've opened them up and checked the battery.  If it's white, replace it before operating.  Later locos used 2 rechargeable pencells, and are more durable.  They have a rectangular charging port.  If you post the model numbers, someone will certainly tell you which category they are in.

Are you trying to run these using a DCS system, or conventionally?

They range in age from 2005 - 2010.  Some of them have the white charging port & I bought the charger. I think 1 had the round charge port, also have the charger. Some don't have any charger port. Don't know what you mean by DCS system, or conventionally, new at this. I'm using the MTH big black cube transformer & Z1000 controller that has operated many other engines I have just fine.

The DCS system is a digital control system that controls each locomotive individually, without affecting others.  Details can be found on the MTH website.  "Conventionally" means as trains have been for 70 years, the transformer sets voltage to the tracks which controls the speed, and reverse is accomplished by a momentary break in power.  PS2 locos operate either way.

By white, I referred to 8.4-volt battery color, not port color.  The round port or no port indicates the older 8.4 volt system, which is nearing the end of its reliable life.  If you have engines like that, they are older than 2005.

Probably would be best if you listed the engines individually by model number, and then described precisely the problem.  But again, do not power up an engine with a white battery.

It will take me a few days to get detailed model numbers. When you say "nearing the end of its reliable life" I assume you mean the battery? Thank you for your direction!

Would these batteries work in the engines? Same voltage higher mah. 200 vs 120 for MTH versions.

https://www.amazon.com/Tenergy...72HAQH1GECR&th=1

No.  While old batteries are a problem, the old PS2 boards that used 8.4 volt batteries contain components that are failing.

As to the Tenergy batteries, I can't tell if they are 8.4 volt or 7.2 volt.  Rechargeable batteries, despite being called "9 volt" are not.  They are either 8.4 or 7.2.  In addition, several of your engines may use 2 rechargeable pencells, which yielf 2.4 volts.  So until you open each loco up, and are sure what type they use, you won't know how many to get.

On the chance that some of your locos may have failed boards, I would only buy one or two sets of each type, and try each engine.   Someone will probably recommend you buy what are called BCRs or supercapacitors to replace batteries.  But they are expensive and it is better to use a cheaper battery to test engines.

OK Thanks! I will get to checking over the weekend and get back to you.

The Tenergy batteries are fine, they work just dandy in MTH applications.

Oh, the rumor about PS/2 killing motors is total Baloney, that doesn't happen!  I don't often see bad motors, and they happen pretty universally across the brand spectrum.  Sometimes there is a specific motor type that has a higher failure rate, the larger Canon motors in Lionel Legacy steamers come to mind.

Thanks! I'm curious...just for testing purposes can I put a standard Alkaline 9V battery in before I buy the Tenergy batteries? 

Here's the batteries I use: EBL 9V Rechargeable Batteries NiMH, never had a problem, I've probably used 40-50 of these.

Do not leave an alkaline battery in there, it should only be used for bench testing.  I've found dead charging circuits with an alkaline battery in the locomotive, I tend to think the two events may be connected.

Thanks again. Yes I did mean just for bench testing.

mvpfrank posted:

Even though the sounds are working?

Yes.  In PS2, the battery is not needed for sounds to operate when the track is powered.  

When you press the Z-1000 DIRECTION button to place the engine into Forward, do the sounds cut-out immediately?  The battery supplies power for sounds while the DIRECTION button is held down.  If sounds immediately stop, this is a good indicator of an issue with the battery or battery circuit.

A functional battery is also needed to cycle the engine from Neutral to Forward when you press the DIRECTION button.  If sounds immediately cut-out, you will be stuck in neutral.  

An engine can be set to Forward-only by the so-called "Direction Lock" memory setting.  This can be cleared by resetting the engine using a sequence of Bell and Whistle button presses on your Z-1000 controller.  Unfortunately you will need a functional battery for the changed setting to take hold.  So for your engines that are stuck in Forward, if the sounds continue (rather than cutting out) when pressing the DIRECTION button, the battery may be OK.  In this case, try resetting the engine which will clear a locked-in-Forward setting.  The timing of the buttons can be tricky so here's a short video which seems to have helped others.  The controller in the video is not the Z-1000, but the operation is the same.  Note that if stuck in Forward, the engine is rolling down the track as you try this reset; it's best to lower the track voltage so the engine is moving relatively slowly when sending the reset sequence. 

As an aside, it's also possible to "Direction Lock" an engine in Neutral.  So if sounds successfully play through DIRECTION button presses (but engine doesn't cycle thru Neutral-Forward-Neutral-Reverse) the engine could be locked into Neutral.  Try the reset sequence listening for the double-toot confirmation sound from the engine.

I will check the above recommendations and get back to you. Thanks!

OK here's what I found so far. I have an F3 Diesel that all sounds work even while holding direction button but only goes forward. No reversing switch on bottom. And the key reset sequence doesn't seem to change anything. I also have a GP9 that needs a new battery, the 2.4v version, MTH 50-1024 but can't seem to find it anywhere for less than $14 delivered. Any tips there?

To be clear, when you say only goes forward... does this mean when you initially apply power, you get the engine "startup" sound and then after a couple seconds the engine starts moving Forward with speed proportional to throttle?  And while engine stops while DIRECTION button is pressed, when DIRECTION released it immediately returns to Forward (can never get engine to stay in Neutral)?

With the key reset sequence you did hear the double-horn-blast after the last button press?

The battery is just a dual AA rechargeable.  You can buy such a pack on eBay for a couple of dollars but will typically have to swap in the correct connector.  If you don't mind some DIY wiring/assembly and have basic electronic tools you should be able to roll your own for a lot less than $14 by re-using the existing connector.  Though if you have multiple PS2 engines that use that 2.4V battery you might want to swap a known-good battery to see if the problem follows the battery or the engine.

Yes to your questions in paragraph 1. Yes I can also get it to stay in neutral. Did not hear 2 horn blasts after last button press.

If you want to eliminate or replace batteries, check out this thread with Gunrunnerjohn's suggestions for  a supercap for the 3 volt PS2s.