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No, it is correctly installed. The tang that is inside the motor case there is a ground strap. So the spring that slides on the drawbar transfers the ground through the metal body to the front truck assembly which then grounds the pilot truck wheels. Much better current path than just the trailing truck wheels. If you want to improve the trailing truck reliability to track, replace with a 1130  trailing truck. This has a different suspension system that works better. You can probably find on one Ebay sooner or later.

All the examples that I have seen and believe to be of good provenance have the spring between the drawbar and crossbar. There is no real other way to install the 1120-6 trailing truck. The spring is installed at the factory, and the the service documents depicts it as your part is shown:

mceclip0

 Here is the 1130-20 that @Chuck Sartor mentioned. It is derived from the 2034 locomotive as noted. The motor is of a differing setup and am unsure if the 1130-20 will mount where the 1120-6 is without modification.

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Last edited by bmoran4

Heck No.  I just bought it because I needed a cheap 027 engine to run as I built and tested my layout. 

This Scout runs fine, very fast,  in forward and reverse.  

It is just that often, traveling over manual switches, that wheels on that rear truck seem to bounce up and off the rails.

I thought about just cutting the axle and taking those wheels off, and going without a rear truck.  But now,  folks are telling me that those two rear wheels need to be there for grounding.  Sheesh.

I kind of like the idea of changing the location of the flat spring, so it is under the draw bar and on top of the horizontal support.  But, all of this stuff is held together with a single rivet, and I hate to take the shell off to drill that rivet out, flip the spring, and put a new rivet in.  (The engine has two very tiny screws on the sides of the boiler, that look like they might be trouble.

Ideas?

Mannyrock

 

 

@Mannyrock posted:

 

I kind of like the idea of changing the location of the flat spring, so it is under the draw bar and on top of the horizontal support.  But, all of this stuff is held together with a single rivet, and I hate to take the shell off to drill that rivet out, flip the spring, and put a new rivet in.  (The engine has two very tiny screws on the sides of the boiler, that look like they might be trouble.

Ideas?

Mannyrock 

No way I would go through the trouble of drilling that rivet out over replacing the truck. As for disassembly, take a look at the service documents Olsen's kindly hosts for your locomotive:

http://www.olsenstoy.com/searchcd2a.htm

Last edited by bmoran4

Well.  What a crummy design.

If the flat spring were on top of the draw bar, the top section of the flat spring would definitely be in contact at all times with the bottom flat edge of the rear of the cab itself.  So, why wouldn't that work?

I mean, the horizontal bar underneath the cab is screwed right to the underside of the cab.  Wouldn't direct contact by the spring with the cab itself be better?

Mannyrock

@GVDobler posted:

Is there a chance that the spring should be on the bottom of that crossbar? It would still make contact and it would push the truck down instead of up.

Doing that could lead to the spring making contact with the middle rail, causing a short.

Could you use a pair of pliers to squeeze the flat spring enough to maintain contact but not raise the wheels too much?

Balidas,  Yes, I could probably do that.  But, it would be tricky to bend the spring down just enough so that it always maintains contact with the cross bar.  Especially since the rear truck is so flightly

Here's what I am thinking of doing.   

Run a wire from the draw bar, in a place underneath the cab, to the cab.  This will carry current from the draw bar straight to the cab.  No need for a flat spring, attached to the flat bar, to rub up against the flat horizontal cross bar that is screwed to the bottom of the cab.

Close the flat spring, and keep it closed with a little bit of black electrical tape.  This will let the the truck swing by itself, free of the effect of the rubbing flat spring.

Add a weight to the top of the draw bar, to hold the rear truck down.

To try this, I have some questions:

I have several drills and titanium bits of every size.   I know I can drill a hole in the sheet metal draw bar.  But, can you drill a hole in cast iron???   I have never tried this.  Would I be able to thread a hole in the cast iron with a tap?  Cast iron is super brittle.

If I can't drill the holes, will solder bond to sheet metal, and will it bond to cast iron?  Instead of fastening each end of the wire with a screw, a spot of solder would hold them.

Thanks for information.

Mannyrock

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

With you educated on all the options presented thus far, I do support your most recent experiment idea.

You can drill and tap the cast shell, but it can be unforgiving at times. I would suggest instead that you tape up the spring as you desire, and then solder SW-22 Super Flex wire to the rivet. The other end of the wire should be terminated with a ring terminal and routed to one of the conveniently already tapped 6-32 x 5/16 screws holding the front bracket to the shell.

While scouring the service documents, I did find this note that shows that your 1120-6 trailing truck may actually be factory as the later 1951-52 models had these upgrades applied from the earlier 1120 release.

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